[Script Info] Title: [Events] Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text Dialogue: 0,0:00:00.00,0:00:04.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, All right, let's learn some knots, shall we? Dialogue: 0,0:00:04.60,0:00:06.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now, if you are one of these people Dialogue: 0,0:00:06.80,0:00:09.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, who cannot remember how to tie knots Dialogue: 0,0:00:09.00,0:00:12.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and when to use which knot, good news, I gotcha. Dialogue: 0,0:00:12.16,0:00:15.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, In this video, I'm gonna show you the most essential knots Dialogue: 0,0:00:15.52,0:00:18.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, that can get you out of any situation Dialogue: 0,0:00:18.44,0:00:22.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and techniques, how to tie them super fast Dialogue: 0,0:00:22.92,0:00:26.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and in a way that you will not forget how it's done. Dialogue: 0,0:00:26.32,0:00:27.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, All right, let's begin. Dialogue: 0,0:00:27.72,0:00:31.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, If I would ask you to tie the most simple knot you can Dialogue: 0,0:00:31.16,0:00:34.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, on the rope, you would do something like this. Dialogue: 0,0:00:36.60,0:00:40.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And if you tighten this, you will get an overhand knot. Dialogue: 0,0:00:41.48,0:00:45.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now, if you would do the same, what we just did, Dialogue: 0,0:00:46.28,0:00:51.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and wrap the tail once more, you get something like that. Dialogue: 0,0:00:52.32,0:00:56.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And if you tighten this and dress it well, Dialogue: 0,0:00:56.56,0:00:59.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, you will get a double overhand knot, Dialogue: 0,0:00:59.12,0:01:01.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, which is also known as a stopper knot. Dialogue: 0,0:01:01.80,0:01:04.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So this is the knot that should always live Dialogue: 0,0:01:04.16,0:01:05.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, at the end of your rope. Dialogue: 0,0:01:05.88,0:01:09.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And it's obviously used to stop your rope Dialogue: 0,0:01:09.68,0:01:12.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, from slipping through your belaying device Dialogue: 0,0:01:12.84,0:01:16.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and dropping your climber to death or yourself. Dialogue: 0,0:01:16.28,0:01:18.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, All right, let's continue. Dialogue: 0,0:01:18.52,0:01:23.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Make a gun with your right hand and place the rope like so, Dialogue: 0,0:01:23.52,0:01:27.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, where the gun is pointing towards the end of the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:01:27.48,0:01:31.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now take the rope and wrap around your fingers like so Dialogue: 0,0:01:31.32,0:01:33.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and make an X here. Dialogue: 0,0:01:33.84,0:01:38.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Wrap the rope again and put the tail through the X like so. Dialogue: 0,0:01:46.24,0:01:51.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So now, if you look into this, you will notice Dialogue: 0,0:01:51.08,0:01:54.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, that on one side we have two parallel strands, Dialogue: 0,0:01:54.24,0:01:56.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, while on other side we have an X Dialogue: 0,0:01:56.44,0:01:58.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and the rope is going through the X. Dialogue: 0,0:01:58.68,0:02:02.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, If we tighten this, we get a double overhand again, Dialogue: 0,0:02:02.80,0:02:04.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, or a stopper knot again. Dialogue: 0,0:02:04.44,0:02:08.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So in full speed, it looks something like this. Dialogue: 0,0:02:08.44,0:02:11.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And if you would want a triple overhand, Dialogue: 0,0:02:11.20,0:02:15.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, you make an X and then you make one extra loop, Dialogue: 0,0:02:15.44,0:02:17.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, like kind of like extra X, Dialogue: 0,0:02:17.80,0:02:22.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and put the tail through both of them, like so. Dialogue: 0,0:02:25.16,0:02:27.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So you would get the triple overhand knot. Dialogue: 0,0:02:28.84,0:02:30.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Okay, let's make a gun again. Dialogue: 0,0:02:30.68,0:02:34.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And previously we had the gun pointing towards the tail. Dialogue: 0,0:02:34.80,0:02:36.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, This time we flip it around. Dialogue: 0,0:02:36.44,0:02:39.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, The gun points away from the tail. Dialogue: 0,0:02:39.56,0:02:42.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And we will tie the same knot as before, Dialogue: 0,0:02:42.00,0:02:45.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, where we go once, make an X, Dialogue: 0,0:02:45.44,0:02:50.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and now we make a bite and put this bite through the X, Dialogue: 0,0:02:52.96,0:02:54.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, like so. Dialogue: 0,0:02:55.68,0:03:00.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, If you tighten this, you should get exactly the same knot, Dialogue: 0,0:03:00.48,0:03:03.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, which has two parallel strands on one side Dialogue: 0,0:03:03.16,0:03:05.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and an X on the other side. Dialogue: 0,0:03:05.44,0:03:08.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So this knot is a sliding knot. Dialogue: 0,0:03:08.52,0:03:13.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, If I load it, it slides until it cannot slide anymore. Dialogue: 0,0:03:13.52,0:03:14.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So this is really great knot Dialogue: 0,0:03:14.96,0:03:18.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, if you need a tight connection to some object. Dialogue: 0,0:03:18.20,0:03:20.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, For example, in the rope axis, Dialogue: 0,0:03:20.08,0:03:23.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, it's very commonly used to hook to the carabiners. Dialogue: 0,0:03:23.56,0:03:26.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, It prevents the carabiner from flopping around Dialogue: 0,0:03:26.12,0:03:27.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, or cross loading. Dialogue: 0,0:03:27.44,0:03:30.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Plus this knot is very, very small and compact. Dialogue: 0,0:03:30.64,0:03:34.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So this might be very useful in certain rigging situations Dialogue: 0,0:03:34.24,0:03:37.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, where you need to get very close to your carabiner. Dialogue: 0,0:03:37.08,0:03:40.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now, one really important aspect about this knot Dialogue: 0,0:03:40.20,0:03:42.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, is that it's pretty much impossible Dialogue: 0,0:03:42.36,0:03:44.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, to visually check it. Dialogue: 0,0:03:44.28,0:03:46.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, That's why you have to do a function test, Dialogue: 0,0:03:46.68,0:03:49.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, meaning take your load line and pull. Dialogue: 0,0:03:50.00,0:03:54.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, The loop should get smaller and the knot will tighten. Dialogue: 0,0:03:54.16,0:03:58.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, If you tied it incorrectly, as you pull on the load line, Dialogue: 0,0:03:58.04,0:04:00.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, this is what happens. Dialogue: 0,0:04:00.00,0:04:01.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, The tail will slip out. Dialogue: 0,0:04:02.76,0:04:05.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And this is called a death knot for a reason. Dialogue: 0,0:04:05.40,0:04:08.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And death knot basically happens when during the tying, Dialogue: 0,0:04:08.96,0:04:12.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, if you point your gun towards the tail. Dialogue: 0,0:04:12.32,0:04:14.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So instead of that, as I showed you before, Dialogue: 0,0:04:14.48,0:04:16.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, you point away from the tail Dialogue: 0,0:04:16.76,0:04:21.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and then you will get a knot which functions properly, Dialogue: 0,0:04:21.00,0:04:23.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, but always, always function check. Dialogue: 0,0:04:23.48,0:04:27.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now to tie this knot around an object, take the tail Dialogue: 0,0:04:27.00,0:04:30.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and then you start wrapping this tail around the rope, Dialogue: 0,0:04:30.96,0:04:31.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, like so. Dialogue: 0,0:04:31.80,0:04:36.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So you go once and then when you go second time, Dialogue: 0,0:04:36.28,0:04:38.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, you form an X here. Dialogue: 0,0:04:38.88,0:04:43.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And now you want to take the tail and pass through the X, Dialogue: 0,0:04:43.80,0:04:45.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, as always. Dialogue: 0,0:04:45.40,0:04:47.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Tail goes through the X. Dialogue: 0,0:04:47.60,0:04:50.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And since this knot consumes very little rope, Dialogue: 0,0:04:50.68,0:04:52.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, I like using it as a stopper knot Dialogue: 0,0:04:52.68,0:04:55.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, tied to my red end of my rope bag. Dialogue: 0,0:04:56.36,0:04:58.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So a great little knot, Dialogue: 0,0:04:58.88,0:05:01.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, but the biggest disadvantage of it Dialogue: 0,0:05:01.16,0:05:04.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, is if you load it really hard, Dialogue: 0,0:05:04.44,0:05:09.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, you will have really hard time untying it. Dialogue: 0,0:05:09.04,0:05:11.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, In this case, when you have a carabiner, it's okay, Dialogue: 0,0:05:11.44,0:05:13.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, because you can unclip from carabiner Dialogue: 0,0:05:13.32,0:05:15.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and then it's much easier to untie. Dialogue: 0,0:05:15.56,0:05:18.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, However, if you would tie onto some object, Dialogue: 0,0:05:19.48,0:05:21.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, then it's another story. Dialogue: 0,0:05:21.84,0:05:25.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, All right, let's make another stopper knot, Dialogue: 0,0:05:25.12,0:05:27.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, but this time don't make it tight. Dialogue: 0,0:05:27.80,0:05:29.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Leave a little hole here Dialogue: 0,0:05:29.72,0:05:32.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, so you can stick your finger through. Dialogue: 0,0:05:32.04,0:05:34.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, However, instead of sticking my finger through, Dialogue: 0,0:05:34.16,0:05:36.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, I'm gonna stick another rope through. Dialogue: 0,0:05:36.44,0:05:39.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now I'm gonna tighten the orange knot a little bit. Dialogue: 0,0:05:39.96,0:05:41.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And now here is the trick. Dialogue: 0,0:05:41.56,0:05:45.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Notice the last strand on the orange knot on the right side. Dialogue: 0,0:05:45.84,0:05:49.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So it's this one, and it kind of goes that way. Dialogue: 0,0:05:49.84,0:05:53.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So the trick is to start tying the green knot Dialogue: 0,0:05:53.12,0:05:54.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, the same direction. Dialogue: 0,0:05:54.32,0:05:57.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, If I go the other direction, it's not gonna be good. Dialogue: 0,0:05:57.28,0:05:59.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So I go the same direction, Dialogue: 0,0:05:59.52,0:06:04.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, I cross over itself, which forms an X as always. Dialogue: 0,0:06:05.24,0:06:09.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And then I put the tail under the X as always. Dialogue: 0,0:06:09.40,0:06:14.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So if I tighten the green knot, I tighten the orange knot. Dialogue: 0,0:06:14.84,0:06:18.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And now if I pull them together, they come together Dialogue: 0,0:06:19.28,0:06:22.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and form a knot, which looks like this, Dialogue: 0,0:06:22.52,0:06:25.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, where I have four parallel strands on one side. Dialogue: 0,0:06:25.48,0:06:29.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And if I flip it over, I have two Xs. Dialogue: 0,0:06:29.16,0:06:30.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, One, two. Dialogue: 0,0:06:30.88,0:06:34.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So this knot is called double fisherman's knot. Dialogue: 0,0:06:34.20,0:06:36.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And it's because fishers use this knot Dialogue: 0,0:06:36.52,0:06:38.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, to join their fishing lines. Dialogue: 0,0:06:38.76,0:06:40.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, However, in fishing lines, Dialogue: 0,0:06:40.00,0:06:42.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, since they're very skinny and slippery, Dialogue: 0,0:06:42.12,0:06:45.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, they often use triple or quadruple version of this knot. Dialogue: 0,0:06:45.64,0:06:46.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, While in the climbing, Dialogue: 0,0:06:46.60,0:06:49.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, it's obviously a great knot to join two ropes. Dialogue: 0,0:06:49.56,0:06:51.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, It's really secure. Dialogue: 0,0:06:51.20,0:06:54.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, You can use different diameters of the ropes. Dialogue: 0,0:06:54.12,0:06:56.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, However, one disadvantage of this knot Dialogue: 0,0:06:56.56,0:06:59.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, is that same as with scaffold before, Dialogue: 0,0:06:59.60,0:07:02.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, if you load it really heavy, Dialogue: 0,0:07:02.28,0:07:04.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, it's gonna be hard to untie. Dialogue: 0,0:07:04.68,0:07:07.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And of course, there are other knots for joining two ropes Dialogue: 0,0:07:07.88,0:07:11.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, that are even better in certain situations. Dialogue: 0,0:07:11.00,0:07:13.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, I will cover them in future episodes. Dialogue: 0,0:07:13.36,0:07:15.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, But for the basics, double fisherman's Dialogue: 0,0:07:15.76,0:07:17.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, is what everybody should know. Dialogue: 0,0:07:17.68,0:07:21.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Okay, next is the king of the knots, a figure of eight. Dialogue: 0,0:07:21.48,0:07:25.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And there are two versions of this knot. Dialogue: 0,0:07:25.04,0:07:27.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And if that's something new for you, Dialogue: 0,0:07:27.92,0:07:31.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, I've already made a video showing you my ninja method, Dialogue: 0,0:07:31.08,0:07:35.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, how to tie this knot and in a way that's easier to untie. Dialogue: 0,0:07:35.88,0:07:39.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now, if you know how to tie figure of eight Dialogue: 0,0:07:39.32,0:07:41.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, into your harness, Dialogue: 0,0:07:41.24,0:07:45.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, you also know how to tie it into some other object. Dialogue: 0,0:07:45.52,0:07:49.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So you follow the same procedure of follow through. Dialogue: 0,0:07:49.12,0:07:52.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So in case you don't want to use a carabiner here, Dialogue: 0,0:07:52.12,0:07:53.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, this is a great option. Dialogue: 0,0:07:53.44,0:07:56.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So the method where you tie into your harness Dialogue: 0,0:07:56.20,0:07:58.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, or you tie around some object Dialogue: 0,0:07:58.52,0:08:01.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, is called the figure of eight follow through. Dialogue: 0,0:08:01.04,0:08:04.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, However, there is another way to tie a figure of eight Dialogue: 0,0:08:04.28,0:08:07.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, when you want to do this in the middle of the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:08:07.48,0:08:11.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And as you can see, this method is really fast. Dialogue: 0,0:08:13.88,0:08:16.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Okay, so this method is really easy. Dialogue: 0,0:08:16.64,0:08:20.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Okay, so this method is actually easier to show Dialogue: 0,0:08:20.60,0:08:23.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and to explain, but I will try to do my best. Dialogue: 0,0:08:23.72,0:08:26.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So I have a loop here with the tail Dialogue: 0,0:08:26.96,0:08:29.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, at the bottom of my palm. Dialogue: 0,0:08:29.24,0:08:32.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, It's not here, it's here, like so. Dialogue: 0,0:08:32.84,0:08:35.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And now I will have to whip this tail. Dialogue: 0,0:08:35.56,0:08:49.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And this is how it looks, you whip like so. Dialogue: 0,0:08:49.00,0:08:51.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now, at this point, notice the hole Dialogue: 0,0:08:51.56,0:08:54.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, where this thumb is poking through Dialogue: 0,0:08:54.16,0:08:59.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and use the left hand to take this tail under Dialogue: 0,0:08:59.40,0:09:02.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and through that hole where the thumb is poking through. Dialogue: 0,0:09:02.92,0:09:06.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And I use my index finger of the right hand Dialogue: 0,0:09:06.00,0:09:08.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, to come and help to pull it through. Dialogue: 0,0:09:08.48,0:09:10.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Pull it through. Dialogue: 0,0:09:10.28,0:09:14.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And at this point, this strand, which goes to the tail, Dialogue: 0,0:09:14.20,0:09:16.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, sometimes wants to be on this side, Dialogue: 0,0:09:16.12,0:09:20.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, but actually it needs to be on the other side. Dialogue: 0,0:09:20.80,0:09:22.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now, if you tighten everything, Dialogue: 0,0:09:25.72,0:09:30.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, so the tail strand needs to come kind of on top. Dialogue: 0,0:09:30.72,0:09:33.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, If this is bottom, it needs to come on top. Dialogue: 0,0:09:33.24,0:09:36.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, If that's the case, you will get a perfect figure of eight, Dialogue: 0,0:09:36.68,0:09:39.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, which is also gonna be easy to untie Dialogue: 0,0:09:39.20,0:09:44.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, because the load line, this line, goes in the middle. Dialogue: 0,0:09:49.24,0:09:53.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So real life speed looks something like this Dialogue: 0,0:09:53.44,0:09:57.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, where I just need to fix this strand sometimes a little bit. Dialogue: 0,0:09:57.88,0:10:00.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So this way of tying figure of eight Dialogue: 0,0:10:00.00,0:10:02.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, is called figure of eight on a bite. Dialogue: 0,0:10:02.72,0:10:05.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So basically you need the secure attachment point Dialogue: 0,0:10:05.48,0:10:07.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, on the rope, figure of eight. Dialogue: 0,0:10:08.56,0:10:10.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now, when it comes to safety, Dialogue: 0,0:10:10.36,0:10:13.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, you don't need any stopper knots for figure of eight, Dialogue: 0,0:10:13.92,0:10:17.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, but this tail should be at least 10 centimeters long. Dialogue: 0,0:10:17.52,0:10:20.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So basically one fist or longer. Dialogue: 0,0:10:20.84,0:10:22.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, In my case, I have two and a half fists, Dialogue: 0,0:10:22.88,0:10:24.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, so it's more than enough. Dialogue: 0,0:10:24.76,0:10:26.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And if you would have a bigger tail, Dialogue: 0,0:10:26.72,0:10:29.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and if you would have a thinner rope, Dialogue: 0,0:10:29.04,0:10:32.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, you can obviously proportionally have this tail shorter. Dialogue: 0,0:10:32.56,0:10:35.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, All right, now let's learn about hitches. Dialogue: 0,0:10:35.48,0:10:37.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now, if you're wondering what's the difference Dialogue: 0,0:10:37.44,0:10:40.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, between a hitch and a knot, Dialogue: 0,0:10:40.40,0:10:43.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, a knot can hold its own shape Dialogue: 0,0:10:43.60,0:10:47.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, without any external objects needed, like figure of eight, Dialogue: 0,0:10:47.64,0:10:50.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, while a hitch cannot. Dialogue: 0,0:10:50.40,0:10:53.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So this is holding me, Dialogue: 0,0:10:53.32,0:10:58.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, but if I remove this external object from the hitch, Dialogue: 0,0:10:58.48,0:11:00.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, the hitch will fall apart. Dialogue: 0,0:11:00.20,0:11:02.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Okay, let's start with the clothes hitch. Dialogue: 0,0:11:02.68,0:11:05.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Take the rope with the right hand, like so. Dialogue: 0,0:11:05.64,0:11:09.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now the left hand crosses under the right hand Dialogue: 0,0:11:09.08,0:11:11.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and takes the rope like so. Dialogue: 0,0:11:11.32,0:11:14.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Notice that the thumbs are pointing away from each other, Dialogue: 0,0:11:14.64,0:11:18.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and I have a little bit of rope slack between the hands. Dialogue: 0,0:11:18.92,0:11:22.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now at this point, uncross your arms, Dialogue: 0,0:11:22.52,0:11:25.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and you will get something like this. Dialogue: 0,0:11:25.24,0:11:30.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now the right loop goes in front of the left one, like so. Dialogue: 0,0:11:33.24,0:11:37.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So once again, I cross my arms, I uncross them, Dialogue: 0,0:11:37.00,0:11:41.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and then the right loop slides on top of the left one, Dialogue: 0,0:11:41.28,0:11:45.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and then you clip this to your carabiner or any other object, Dialogue: 0,0:11:46.32,0:11:51.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, like so, and then you can pull on the ends to tighten it. Dialogue: 0,0:11:51.32,0:11:54.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now what's great about this hitch Dialogue: 0,0:11:54.48,0:11:57.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, is that you can pull on either side of the rope, Dialogue: 0,0:11:57.72,0:12:01.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and it's gonna hold, and if you want to adjust, Dialogue: 0,0:12:01.64,0:12:06.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, you loosen the belly in the middle of the knot, like so. Dialogue: 0,0:12:06.04,0:12:09.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Let's say I want to stay at this length, Dialogue: 0,0:12:09.84,0:12:13.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, so I'm gonna pull the other end now, like so. Dialogue: 0,0:12:15.84,0:12:17.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And I'm secure. Dialogue: 0,0:12:17.44,0:12:20.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So this cross and uncross technique works really well Dialogue: 0,0:12:20.92,0:12:23.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, when you have two hands, Dialogue: 0,0:12:23.12,0:12:26.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and if you don't have two hands available, Dialogue: 0,0:12:26.24,0:12:27.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, this is what you do. Dialogue: 0,0:12:27.84,0:12:31.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, You clip the carabiner as always, normally. Dialogue: 0,0:12:31.42,0:12:33.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now since the gate is pointing to the right, Dialogue: 0,0:12:33.68,0:12:35.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, I'm gonna use my right hand, Dialogue: 0,0:12:35.40,0:12:37.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and I'm gonna flip it upside down Dialogue: 0,0:12:37.36,0:12:41.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, with the thumb pointing down, and take the other rope, Dialogue: 0,0:12:41.02,0:12:42.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, which is behind the carabiner. Dialogue: 0,0:12:42.86,0:12:46.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, At this point, I'm gonna untwist my hand Dialogue: 0,0:12:46.28,0:12:47.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and clip it to the gate. Dialogue: 0,0:12:47.58,0:12:49.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And through the carabiner. Dialogue: 0,0:12:51.58,0:12:53.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now when the gate is pointing left, Dialogue: 0,0:12:53.68,0:12:56.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, you need to use your left hand, so the same, Dialogue: 0,0:12:56.04,0:12:58.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, flip it upside down with the thumb pointing down, Dialogue: 0,0:12:58.80,0:13:02.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, grab the rope, untwist your hand, Dialogue: 0,0:13:02.64,0:13:04.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and clip it to the gate. Dialogue: 0,0:13:06.24,0:13:08.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And clothes hitch is another great knot Dialogue: 0,0:13:08.68,0:13:11.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, if you like playing with sticks. Dialogue: 0,0:13:11.40,0:13:13.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, It holds really well. Dialogue: 0,0:13:13.52,0:13:15.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, I guess this will get a lot of comments, right? Dialogue: 0,0:13:17.96,0:13:20.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, A great visual check if you did it correctly. Dialogue: 0,0:13:20.56,0:13:22.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Both strands that exit the hitch Dialogue: 0,0:13:22.76,0:13:26.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, need to exit from the middle of the knot. Dialogue: 0,0:13:26.64,0:13:30.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So they are both kinda squeezed inside, Dialogue: 0,0:13:31.04,0:13:33.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and they're exiting on the opposite sides. Dialogue: 0,0:13:33.96,0:13:35.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, There is a rope between them. Dialogue: 0,0:13:35.76,0:13:39.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Okay, next hitch starts exactly the same as before. Dialogue: 0,0:13:39.56,0:13:43.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, But at this point, instead of sliding the right loop Dialogue: 0,0:13:43.56,0:13:46.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, over the left one, imagine that you have a book Dialogue: 0,0:13:46.80,0:13:49.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, in front of you, and these loops are kind of like Dialogue: 0,0:13:49.68,0:13:53.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, pages of the book, and you want to close the book. Dialogue: 0,0:13:54.24,0:13:55.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Like so. Dialogue: 0,0:13:56.28,0:13:57.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So here is another angle. Dialogue: 0,0:13:57.52,0:14:02.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, I cross my arms, I uncross, and then I close the book. Dialogue: 0,0:14:02.28,0:14:05.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now what I'm doing here, I'm turning the book Dialogue: 0,0:14:05.88,0:14:09.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, like so before I'm clipping to the carabiner. Dialogue: 0,0:14:09.56,0:14:12.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And the reason for this twist that I did Dialogue: 0,0:14:12.24,0:14:15.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, is to keep the break side of the rope, Dialogue: 0,0:14:15.72,0:14:17.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, this one, away from the gate. Dialogue: 0,0:14:17.64,0:14:19.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So with this rope, when it's running, Dialogue: 0,0:14:19.64,0:14:22.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, it's not running over the gate. Dialogue: 0,0:14:22.28,0:14:24.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So when I load, the knot will flip. Dialogue: 0,0:14:24.88,0:14:26.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, This is totally normal. Dialogue: 0,0:14:26.32,0:14:28.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And then I can go down like so. Dialogue: 0,0:14:31.16,0:14:33.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And then I can close the book. Dialogue: 0,0:14:33.20,0:14:38.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So, and as you might have guessed, Dialogue: 0,0:14:38.04,0:14:40.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, this is the knot or the hitch that you would use Dialogue: 0,0:14:40.92,0:14:43.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, in case you would drop your belaying device. Dialogue: 0,0:14:43.12,0:14:44.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And now you need to go down. Dialogue: 0,0:14:44.64,0:14:49.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So take a bit of slack, like so. Dialogue: 0,0:14:50.08,0:14:52.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now, one thing to know about this hitch Dialogue: 0,0:14:52.28,0:14:55.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, is that the most breaking strength it has Dialogue: 0,0:14:55.00,0:14:59.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, when these strands are parallel to each other. Dialogue: 0,0:14:59.04,0:15:03.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, It's not down here like on normal belaying devices. Dialogue: 0,0:15:03.36,0:15:07.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, It's actually up in the case of a rappel, like so. Dialogue: 0,0:15:08.36,0:15:12.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So, like so, and then you can lower yourself down. Dialogue: 0,0:15:13.68,0:15:16.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So hopefully you will never need to use this, Dialogue: 0,0:15:16.48,0:15:19.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, but in case you do, close your book or pray. Dialogue: 0,0:15:19.72,0:15:22.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, That's also a good way to remember. Dialogue: 0,0:15:22.52,0:15:25.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, You can also belay a climber using this. Dialogue: 0,0:15:25.52,0:15:27.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, One thing to know about that is that Dialogue: 0,0:15:27.64,0:15:31.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, when you're switching between giving slack and taking slack, Dialogue: 0,0:15:31.12,0:15:33.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, the knot will flip upside down. Dialogue: 0,0:15:33.40,0:15:34.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, This is totally normal. Dialogue: 0,0:15:35.80,0:15:38.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So it keeps flipping every time you switch Dialogue: 0,0:15:38.72,0:15:40.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, taking slack to giving slack. Dialogue: 0,0:15:42.04,0:15:43.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, That's how it should be. Dialogue: 0,0:15:43.52,0:15:46.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Another very critical thing to know Dialogue: 0,0:15:46.00,0:15:49.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, is that it will twist your rope like crazy. Dialogue: 0,0:15:49.88,0:15:52.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So this is not the best knot Dialogue: 0,0:15:52.32,0:15:55.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, if you want to rappel a lot, a lot, a lot. Dialogue: 0,0:15:55.40,0:15:58.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, You will have a lot, a lot, a lot of tangles in your rope. Dialogue: 0,0:15:58.28,0:16:01.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So in case of emergency, once again, Dialogue: 0,0:16:01.48,0:16:04.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, cross your arms, uncross, and then pray. Dialogue: 0,0:16:07.60,0:16:11.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And before you go down, don't forget to test it Dialogue: 0,0:16:11.48,0:16:14.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, before you unclip any other protection. Dialogue: 0,0:16:16.24,0:16:19.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, All right, moving on to friction hitches. Dialogue: 0,0:16:19.04,0:16:22.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, These are special hitches that can slide on the rope, Dialogue: 0,0:16:22.76,0:16:25.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, but when you load it, it bites. Dialogue: 0,0:16:25.72,0:16:29.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And this is super useful in wide variety applications Dialogue: 0,0:16:29.28,0:16:31.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, from backuping your belaying device Dialogue: 0,0:16:31.80,0:16:35.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, to rigging something where you need to tension the rope more Dialogue: 0,0:16:35.12,0:16:38.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, or rescuing somebody or yourself. Dialogue: 0,0:16:38.36,0:16:41.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And I'm gonna show you three most common hitches, Dialogue: 0,0:16:41.52,0:16:43.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, but don't worry, they're kind of similar. Dialogue: 0,0:16:43.52,0:16:45.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So I'm gonna explain the differences Dialogue: 0,0:16:45.48,0:16:48.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, so you can understand in which application Dialogue: 0,0:16:48.24,0:16:49.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, which one is better. Dialogue: 0,0:16:49.72,0:16:52.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, All right, let's start with the prasic. Dialogue: 0,0:16:52.44,0:16:54.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, The first thing I do when I tie prasic Dialogue: 0,0:16:54.48,0:16:58.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, is move my loop to the side a little bit. Dialogue: 0,0:16:58.32,0:17:03.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Then I pass the knot through itself, like so, Dialogue: 0,0:17:04.12,0:17:06.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and make it tight again. Dialogue: 0,0:17:06.28,0:17:10.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Then I pass the knot one more time, like so. Dialogue: 0,0:17:10.28,0:17:14.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Notice that I'm keeping these coils coiling inwards Dialogue: 0,0:17:14.32,0:17:16.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, towards each other, like here. Dialogue: 0,0:17:16.48,0:17:20.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And then I pass a third time, like so. Dialogue: 0,0:17:20.68,0:17:24.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now, at this point, I want to pull on one of these strands Dialogue: 0,0:17:24.68,0:17:26.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, to offset the knot. Dialogue: 0,0:17:26.04,0:17:28.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So I'm gonna pull on this strand Dialogue: 0,0:17:29.04,0:17:32.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, while maintaining the knot neat. Dialogue: 0,0:17:38.00,0:17:41.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So that's the end result. Dialogue: 0,0:17:41.36,0:17:43.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now, to double-check the prasic, Dialogue: 0,0:17:43.44,0:17:46.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, you can kind of see a big smiley with the tongue, Dialogue: 0,0:17:46.96,0:17:50.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and all the coils are nice and parallel to each other. Dialogue: 0,0:17:50.56,0:17:52.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, There is nothing overlapping here. Dialogue: 0,0:17:52.84,0:17:56.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And you can clip it to yourself, like so, Dialogue: 0,0:17:58.40,0:18:00.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and it should hold you. Dialogue: 0,0:18:00.96,0:18:05.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now, prasics are not releasable under tension, Dialogue: 0,0:18:05.96,0:18:09.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and when you load it hard, it might be hard to release. Dialogue: 0,0:18:09.92,0:18:13.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And to help to release, you kind of want to open that mouth Dialogue: 0,0:18:13.28,0:18:17.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, that I was talking, and that helps to loosen up the prasic. Dialogue: 0,0:18:17.92,0:18:22.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So prasics are very strong, and they work in both directions. Dialogue: 0,0:18:22.40,0:18:24.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So if you're not planning to move it much Dialogue: 0,0:18:24.84,0:18:27.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, in certain rigging situations, this is great. Dialogue: 0,0:18:27.92,0:18:31.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, All right, next one is a clem heist. Dialogue: 0,0:18:31.04,0:18:34.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, For this one, I like to offset the knot from the beginning, Dialogue: 0,0:18:34.96,0:18:38.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and then take the other end behind the rope, Dialogue: 0,0:18:38.28,0:18:41.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, kind of measure one finger here, Dialogue: 0,0:18:41.60,0:18:46.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and then you start rolling around or wrapping around Dialogue: 0,0:18:46.60,0:18:48.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, or coiling around. Dialogue: 0,0:18:48.40,0:18:52.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, This is much easier than original prasic. Dialogue: 0,0:18:52.00,0:18:54.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And at this point, you take the knot, Dialogue: 0,0:18:54.32,0:18:59.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, pass through the upper loop, like so, and pull it down. Dialogue: 0,0:19:03.24,0:19:08.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So again, it's important to make it very nice and tidy, Dialogue: 0,0:19:08.04,0:19:10.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and also to make sure that this loop Dialogue: 0,0:19:10.76,0:19:13.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, that you just passed your rope through Dialogue: 0,0:19:13.08,0:19:16.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, is not longer than entire length of the knot. Dialogue: 0,0:19:16.92,0:19:19.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Of course, when you're gonna load it, Dialogue: 0,0:19:19.00,0:19:21.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, it's gonna stretch, and that's okay. Dialogue: 0,0:19:21.68,0:19:26.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, But if you make it too long, you will have way less friction. Dialogue: 0,0:19:26.48,0:19:28.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, All right, the clem heist. Dialogue: 0,0:19:29.76,0:19:33.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Same as the prasic, it's very strong Dialogue: 0,0:19:33.00,0:19:35.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and not releasable under tension. Dialogue: 0,0:19:35.92,0:19:40.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, However, unlike the prasic, well-tight clem heist Dialogue: 0,0:19:40.92,0:19:43.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, should be easier to release. Dialogue: 0,0:19:43.52,0:19:46.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And similar to prasic, when you want to release it, Dialogue: 0,0:19:46.96,0:19:51.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, you want to open this lip that you passed your tail through. Dialogue: 0,0:19:52.84,0:19:55.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, That helps to loosen it up. Dialogue: 0,0:19:55.12,0:19:59.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now, unlike prasics, clem heist is single directional. Dialogue: 0,0:19:59.80,0:20:04.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So it works best if you pull it downwards, in my case. Dialogue: 0,0:20:04.44,0:20:07.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, It kind of works if you pull up as well, Dialogue: 0,0:20:07.16,0:20:08.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, but it's not designed for that, Dialogue: 0,0:20:08.64,0:20:10.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and it's gonna be much weaker. Dialogue: 0,0:20:10.36,0:20:13.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So due to the fact that it's a little bit easier Dialogue: 0,0:20:13.04,0:20:17.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, to release sometimes, and it's holding very strong, Dialogue: 0,0:20:17.20,0:20:21.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, a lot of climbers prefer this knot over the prasic Dialogue: 0,0:20:21.00,0:20:22.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, when you need to ascend the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:20:22.76,0:20:25.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So you can move it easier up and then load it, Dialogue: 0,0:20:25.72,0:20:27.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, move it up and then load it. Dialogue: 0,0:20:27.72,0:20:30.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, All right, and the last one is an auto block. Dialogue: 0,0:20:30.84,0:20:33.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, It starts similar to the clem heist. Dialogue: 0,0:20:33.00,0:20:36.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, I like to offset this knot a little bit, Dialogue: 0,0:20:36.40,0:20:41.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and then start wrapping around like we already did before. Dialogue: 0,0:20:42.20,0:20:44.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And now at this point, Dialogue: 0,0:20:44.32,0:20:47.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, instead of putting the knot through the loop, Dialogue: 0,0:20:47.08,0:20:48.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, what we did with the clem heist, Dialogue: 0,0:20:48.96,0:20:51.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, you want to take both of these loops Dialogue: 0,0:20:52.12,0:20:54.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and clip it with the carabiner. Dialogue: 0,0:20:57.36,0:21:01.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So once you load it, it's gonna look a little bit funky, Dialogue: 0,0:21:01.56,0:21:02.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, but it should grab. Dialogue: 0,0:21:02.92,0:21:07.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And auto block is commonly used as a backup Dialogue: 0,0:21:08.36,0:21:12.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, for your belay device in extended repel situation. Dialogue: 0,0:21:13.36,0:21:17.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So since it doesn't bite that much, Dialogue: 0,0:21:18.20,0:21:21.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, it's still okay because you don't need that much force Dialogue: 0,0:21:21.40,0:21:23.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, to hold the break side of the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:21:23.32,0:21:27.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, However, the ability to release this knot under tension Dialogue: 0,0:21:27.88,0:21:32.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, is what makes it a great option for repelling. Dialogue: 0,0:21:32.44,0:21:35.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So here's another demonstration, auto block. Dialogue: 0,0:21:35.24,0:21:37.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Although being the weakest out of the three, Dialogue: 0,0:21:37.64,0:21:39.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, it still can hold my weight. Dialogue: 0,0:21:39.76,0:21:43.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, However, if I pull on it from top down, it will, ow. Dialogue: 0,0:21:43.76,0:21:45.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now, the great thing about these prasics Dialogue: 0,0:21:45.88,0:21:49.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, that they can be made simply out of the accessory cord Dialogue: 0,0:21:49.32,0:21:52.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, tied into the loop using double fisherman's knot. Dialogue: 0,0:21:52.52,0:21:55.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, One thing you need to know is that your cord Dialogue: 0,0:21:55.60,0:21:59.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, has to be at least three millimeters thinner Dialogue: 0,0:21:59.08,0:22:02.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, than the rope you're gonna be using it on. Dialogue: 0,0:22:02.04,0:22:04.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And in general, the thinner the cord is, Dialogue: 0,0:22:04.88,0:22:07.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, the stronger the prasic is gonna grab. Dialogue: 0,0:22:07.92,0:22:09.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And for climbing applications, Dialogue: 0,0:22:09.56,0:22:13.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, the good diameter is between five and six millimeters. Dialogue: 0,0:22:13.04,0:22:16.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Now, other things that affect how strongly Dialogue: 0,0:22:16.32,0:22:19.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, the prasic is gonna bite is the amount of loops Dialogue: 0,0:22:19.52,0:22:20.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, you're gonna make. Dialogue: 0,0:22:20.48,0:22:22.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So with every prasic, you can loop it Dialogue: 0,0:22:22.96,0:22:24.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, as many times as it's needed. Dialogue: 0,0:22:24.96,0:22:26.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, There is no hard rule. Dialogue: 0,0:22:26.52,0:22:28.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Usually you start around three, Dialogue: 0,0:22:28.84,0:22:30.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and then you have to test it to see Dialogue: 0,0:22:30.88,0:22:33.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, if it's strong enough, but not too strong. Dialogue: 0,0:22:33.68,0:22:36.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So it's great idea to test on your own ropes, Dialogue: 0,0:22:36.80,0:22:40.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, because it also depends on the stiffness of your cord Dialogue: 0,0:22:40.80,0:22:45.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and on your slippiness of your rope. Dialogue: 0,0:22:45.28,0:22:49.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And if your rope, for example, is wet or frozen, Dialogue: 0,0:22:49.20,0:22:51.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, it's gonna be even slippier. Dialogue: 0,0:22:51.44,0:22:54.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So you might need more wraps. Dialogue: 0,0:22:56.68,0:23:00.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, Also, you can tie prasics on two ropes. Dialogue: 0,0:23:00.28,0:23:01.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, For example, when you're rappelling, Dialogue: 0,0:23:01.96,0:23:04.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, the thing you need to know is that two ropes Dialogue: 0,0:23:04.04,0:23:06.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, have more surface for the prasic to bite, Dialogue: 0,0:23:06.88,0:23:09.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and usually the prasic will bite harder. Dialogue: 0,0:23:09.32,0:23:11.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So you might need less wraps. Dialogue: 0,0:23:11.52,0:23:16.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So very budget-friendly and super useful thing to have, Dialogue: 0,0:23:16.20,0:23:19.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, but you can also buy already pre-made prasics. Dialogue: 0,0:23:19.28,0:23:20.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, They are even better, Dialogue: 0,0:23:20.36,0:23:22.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, because they are more friction resistant, Dialogue: 0,0:23:22.08,0:23:24.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, they are softer, and it's easier to tie them. Dialogue: 0,0:23:24.64,0:23:27.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, However, make sure to not buy too thick one. Dialogue: 0,0:23:27.84,0:23:29.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, They're used for other applications. Dialogue: 0,0:23:29.68,0:23:32.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, You need a thinner one for sport climbing. Dialogue: 0,0:23:32.12,0:23:33.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And in case you get stuck on the route Dialogue: 0,0:23:33.96,0:23:37.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, and you want to escape, but you don't have a prasic, Dialogue: 0,0:23:37.24,0:23:39.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, well, maybe you have shoes with laces Dialogue: 0,0:23:39.96,0:23:41.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, that you can make your prasic out of. Dialogue: 0,0:23:41.88,0:23:43.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And here, I forgot to mention Dialogue: 0,0:23:43.88,0:23:46.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, one very important thing about prasics, Dialogue: 0,0:23:46.40,0:23:49.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, that you should not rely on them fully. Dialogue: 0,0:23:49.28,0:23:52.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, You always have to have a very, very solid backup. Dialogue: 0,0:23:53.76,0:23:57.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, All right, so of course, there are many other knots, Dialogue: 0,0:23:57.04,0:23:58.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, but to keep your brain from melting, Dialogue: 0,0:23:58.96,0:24:01.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, I'm going to keep them for the future episodes. Dialogue: 0,0:24:01.64,0:24:05.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And for now, I want to say special thank you for Mammut Dialogue: 0,0:24:05.00,0:24:06.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, for sponsoring this video, Dialogue: 0,0:24:06.84,0:24:09.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, since I put a lot of energy into these videos Dialogue: 0,0:24:09.56,0:24:12.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, to make them as quality as possible. Dialogue: 0,0:24:12.00,0:24:13.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, It's great to partner with the brand Dialogue: 0,0:24:13.96,0:24:16.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, who also cares about quality a lot. Dialogue: 0,0:24:16.52,0:24:18.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So thank you, Mammut. Dialogue: 0,0:24:18.00,0:24:21.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, And thank you, every single of you who are supporting me Dialogue: 0,0:24:21.68,0:24:23.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, by visiting my website. Dialogue: 0,0:24:23.48,0:24:25.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, That helps a ton. Dialogue: 0,0:24:25.56,0:24:30.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, So I can make more of these videos. Dialogue: 0,0:24:32.32,0:24:34.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, I'm so bad at these outros. Dialogue: 0,0:24:34.92,0:24:55.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,, I'm going to leave it like that.