0:00:00.000,0:00:04.600 All right, let's learn some knots,[br]shall we? 0:00:04.600,0:00:06.800 Now, if you are one of these people 0:00:06.800,0:00:09.000 who cannot remember how to tie knots 0:00:09.000,0:00:12.160 and when to use which knot,[br]good news, I gotcha. 0:00:12.160,0:00:15.520 In this video, I'm gonna show you[br]the most essential knots 0:00:15.520,0:00:18.440 that can get you out of any situation 0:00:18.440,0:00:22.920 and techniques, how to tie them super fast 0:00:22.920,0:00:26.320 and in a way that you will not forget[br]how it's done. 0:00:26.320,0:00:27.720 All right, let's begin. 0:00:27.720,0:00:31.757 If I would ask you to tie[br]the most simple knot you can on the rope, 0:00:31.757,0:00:34.840 you would do something like this. 0:00:36.600,0:00:40.600 And if you tighten this, [br]you will get an overhand knot. 0:00:41.480,0:00:45.040 Now, if you would do the same, [br]what we just did, 0:00:46.280,0:00:51.280 and wrap the tail once more, [br]you get something like that. 0:00:52.320,0:00:56.560 And if you tighten this and dress it well, 0:00:56.560,0:00:59.120 you will get a double overhand knot, 0:00:59.120,0:01:01.800 which is also known as a stopper knot. 0:01:01.800,0:01:04.160 So this is the knot [br]that should always live 0:01:04.160,0:01:05.880 at the end of your rope. 0:01:05.880,0:01:09.680 And it's obviously used to stop your rope 0:01:09.680,0:01:12.840 from slipping through your belaying device 0:01:12.840,0:01:16.280 and dropping your climber to death[br]or yourself. 0:01:16.280,0:01:18.520 All right, let's continue. 0:01:18.520,0:01:23.520 Make a gun with your right hand [br]and place the rope like so, 0:01:23.520,0:01:27.480 where the gun is pointing towards [br]the end of the rope. 0:01:27.480,0:01:31.320 Now take the rope and [br]wrap around your fingers like so 0:01:31.320,0:01:33.840 and make an X here. 0:01:33.840,0:01:43.750 Wrap the rope again [br]and put the tail through the X like so. 0:01:46.240,0:01:51.080 So now, if you look into this, [br]you will notice 0:01:51.080,0:01:54.240 that on one side [br]we have two parallel strands, 0:01:54.240,0:01:56.440 while on other side we have an X 0:01:56.440,0:01:58.680 and the rope is going through the X. 0:01:58.680,0:02:02.800 If we tighten this, [br]we get a double overhand again, 0:02:02.800,0:02:04.440 or a stopper knot again. 0:02:04.440,0:02:08.440 So in full speed, [br]it looks something like this. 0:02:08.440,0:02:11.200 And if you would want a triple overhand, 0:02:11.200,0:02:15.440 you make an X [br]and then you make one extra loop, 0:02:15.440,0:02:17.800 like kind of like extra X, 0:02:17.800,0:02:22.800 and put the tail through both of them, 0:02:23.480,0:02:24.480 like so. 0:02:25.160,0:02:27.840 So you would get the triple overhand knot. 0:02:28.840,0:02:30.680 Okay, let's make a gun again. 0:02:30.680,0:02:34.800 And previously we had the gun [br]pointing towards the tail. 0:02:34.800,0:02:36.440 This time we flip it around. 0:02:36.440,0:02:39.560 The gun points away from the tail. 0:02:39.560,0:02:42.000 And we will tie the same knot as before, 0:02:42.000,0:02:45.440 where we go once, make an X, 0:02:45.440,0:02:50.860 and now we make a bite [br]and put this bite through the X, 0:02:52.960,0:02:54.160 like so. 0:02:55.680,0:03:00.480 If you tighten this, [br]you should get exactly the same knot, 0:03:00.480,0:03:03.160 which has two parallel strands on one side 0:03:03.160,0:03:05.440 and an X on the other side. 0:03:05.440,0:03:08.520 So this knot is a sliding knot. 0:03:08.520,0:03:14.580 If I load it, it slides [br]until it cannot slide anymore. 0:03:14.580,0:03:16.221 So this is really great knot 0:03:16.221,0:03:19.422 if you need a tight [br]connection to some object. 0:03:19.422,0:03:21.070 For example, in the rope axis, 0:03:21.070,0:03:24.750 it's very commonly used [br]to hook to the carabiners. 0:03:24.750,0:03:27.360 It prevents the carabiner [br]from flopping around 0:03:27.360,0:03:28.530 or cross loading. 0:03:28.530,0:03:31.883 Plus this knot is very, very small [br]and compact. 0:03:31.883,0:03:35.560 So this might be very useful [br]in certain rigging situations 0:03:35.560,0:03:38.350 where you need to get [br]very close to your carabiner. 0:03:38.350,0:03:41.150 Now, one really important aspect [br]about this knot 0:03:41.150,0:03:43.660 is that it's pretty much impossible 0:03:43.660,0:03:45.347 to visually check it. 0:03:45.347,0:03:47.780 That's why you have to do a function test, 0:03:47.780,0:03:50.330 meaning take your load line and pull. 0:03:50.330,0:03:55.337 The loop should get smaller [br]and the knot will tighten. 0:03:55.337,0:03:59.210 If you tied it incorrectly, [br]as you pull on the load line, 0:03:59.210,0:04:00.750 this is what happens. 0:04:00.750,0:04:03.820 The tail will slip out. 0:04:03.820,0:04:06.640 And this is called a death knot [br]for a reason. 0:04:06.640,0:04:10.160 And death knot basically happens [br]when during the tying, 0:04:10.160,0:04:13.032 if you point your gun towards the tail. 0:04:13.032,0:04:15.160 So instead of that, [br]as I showed you before, 0:04:15.160,0:04:17.690 you point away from the tail 0:04:17.690,0:04:21.760 and then you will get a knot [br]which functions properly, 0:04:21.760,0:04:24.410 but always, always function check. 0:04:24.410,0:04:26.837 Now to tie this knot around an object, 0:04:26.837,0:04:31.780 take the tail and then you start [br]wrapping this tail around the rope, 0:04:31.780,0:04:32.694 like so. 0:04:32.694,0:04:34.210 So you go once 0:04:34.210,0:04:39.080 and then when you go second time, [br]you form an X here. 0:04:39.080,0:04:44.200 And now you want to take the tail [br]and pass through the X, 0:04:44.200,0:04:45.870 as always. 0:04:45.870,0:04:48.090 Tail goes through the X. 0:04:48.090,0:04:51.123 And since this knot [br]consumes very little rope, 0:04:51.123,0:04:53.210 I like using it as a stopper knot 0:04:53.210,0:04:55.800 tied to my red end of my rope bag. 0:04:56.360,0:04:59.320 So a great little knot, 0:04:59.320,0:05:01.546 but the biggest disadvantage of it 0:05:01.546,0:05:04.800 is if you load it really hard, 0:05:04.800,0:05:08.900 you will have really hard time untying it. 0:05:08.900,0:05:11.440 In this case, when you have a carabiner,[br]it's okay, 0:05:11.440,0:05:13.240 because you can unclip from carabiner 0:05:13.240,0:05:15.560 and then it's much easier to untie. 0:05:15.560,0:05:18.600 However, if you would tie [br]onto some object, 0:05:19.480,0:05:21.840 then it's another story. 0:05:21.840,0:05:25.120 All right, let's make [br]another stopper knot, 0:05:25.120,0:05:27.800 but this time don't make it tight. 0:05:27.800,0:05:29.720 Leave a little hole here 0:05:29.720,0:05:31.950 so you can stick your finger through. 0:05:31.950,0:05:34.160 However, instead of[br]sticking my finger through, 0:05:34.160,0:05:36.440 I'm gonna stick another rope through. 0:05:36.440,0:05:39.960 Now I'm gonna tighten [br]the orange knot a little bit. 0:05:39.960,0:05:41.560 And now here is the trick. 0:05:41.560,0:05:45.840 Notice the last strand on the orange knot [br]on the right side. 0:05:45.840,0:05:49.259 So it's this one, [br]and it kind of goes that way. 0:05:49.259,0:05:53.120 So the trick is[br]to start tying the green knot 0:05:53.120,0:05:54.320 the same direction. 0:05:54.320,0:05:57.280 If I go the other direction, [br]it's not gonna be good. 0:05:57.280,0:05:59.520 So I go the same direction, 0:05:59.520,0:06:05.000 I cross over itself, [br]which forms an X as always. 0:06:05.000,0:06:09.400 And then I put the tail [br]under the X as always. 0:06:09.400,0:06:14.680 So if I tighten the green knot, [br]I tighten the orange knot. 0:06:14.680,0:06:18.360 And now if I pull them together, [br]they come together 0:06:19.280,0:06:22.520 and form a knot, which looks like this, 0:06:22.520,0:06:25.480 where I have four parallel strands on one side. 0:06:25.480,0:06:29.160 And if I flip it over, I have two Xs. 0:06:29.160,0:06:30.880 One, two. 0:06:30.880,0:06:34.200 So this knot is called double fisherman's knot. 0:06:34.200,0:06:36.520 And it's because fishers use this knot 0:06:36.520,0:06:38.760 to join their fishing lines. 0:06:38.760,0:06:40.000 However, in fishing lines, 0:06:40.000,0:06:42.120 since they're very skinny and slippery, 0:06:42.120,0:06:45.640 they often use triple or quadruple version of this knot. 0:06:45.640,0:06:46.600 While in the climbing, 0:06:46.600,0:06:49.560 it's obviously a great knot to join two ropes. 0:06:49.560,0:06:51.200 It's really secure. 0:06:51.200,0:06:54.120 You can use different diameters of the ropes. 0:06:54.120,0:06:56.560 However, one disadvantage of this knot 0:06:56.560,0:06:59.600 is that same as with scaffold before, 0:06:59.600,0:07:02.280 if you load it really heavy, 0:07:02.280,0:07:04.680 it's gonna be hard to untie. 0:07:04.680,0:07:07.880 And of course, there are other knots for joining two ropes 0:07:07.880,0:07:11.000 that are even better in certain situations. 0:07:11.000,0:07:13.360 I will cover them in future episodes. 0:07:13.360,0:07:15.760 But for the basics, double fisherman's 0:07:15.760,0:07:17.680 is what everybody should know. 0:07:17.680,0:07:21.480 Okay, next is the king of the knots, a figure of eight. 0:07:21.480,0:07:25.040 And there are two versions of this knot. 0:07:25.040,0:07:27.920 And if that's something new for you, 0:07:27.920,0:07:31.080 I've already made a video showing you my ninja method, 0:07:31.080,0:07:35.880 how to tie this knot and in a way that's easier to untie. 0:07:35.880,0:07:39.320 Now, if you know how to tie figure of eight 0:07:39.320,0:07:41.240 into your harness, 0:07:41.240,0:07:45.520 you also know how to tie it into some other object. 0:07:45.520,0:07:49.120 So you follow the same procedure of follow through. 0:07:49.120,0:07:52.120 So in case you don't want to use a carabiner here, 0:07:52.120,0:07:53.440 this is a great option. 0:07:53.440,0:07:56.200 So the method where you tie into your harness 0:07:56.200,0:07:58.520 or you tie around some object 0:07:58.520,0:08:01.040 is called the figure of eight follow through. 0:08:01.040,0:08:04.280 However, there is another way to tie a figure of eight 0:08:04.280,0:08:07.480 when you want to do this in the middle of the rope. 0:08:07.480,0:08:11.880 And as you can see, this method is really fast. 0:08:13.880,0:08:16.640 Okay, so this method is really easy. 0:08:16.640,0:08:20.600 Okay, so this method is actually easier to show 0:08:20.600,0:08:23.720 and to explain, but I will try to do my best. 0:08:23.720,0:08:26.960 So I have a loop here with the tail 0:08:26.960,0:08:29.240 at the bottom of my palm. 0:08:29.240,0:08:32.840 It's not here, it's here, like so. 0:08:32.840,0:08:35.560 And now I will have to whip this tail. 0:08:35.560,0:08:49.000 And this is how it looks, you whip like so. 0:08:49.000,0:08:51.560 Now, at this point, notice the hole 0:08:51.560,0:08:54.160 where this thumb is poking through 0:08:54.160,0:08:59.400 and use the left hand to take this tail under 0:08:59.400,0:09:02.920 and through that hole where the thumb is poking through. 0:09:02.920,0:09:06.000 And I use my index finger of the right hand 0:09:06.000,0:09:08.480 to come and help to pull it through. 0:09:08.480,0:09:10.280 Pull it through. 0:09:10.280,0:09:14.200 And at this point, this strand, which goes to the tail, 0:09:14.200,0:09:16.120 sometimes wants to be on this side, 0:09:16.120,0:09:20.800 but actually it needs to be on the other side. 0:09:20.800,0:09:22.880 Now, if you tighten everything, 0:09:25.720,0:09:30.720 so the tail strand needs to come kind of on top. 0:09:30.720,0:09:33.240 If this is bottom, it needs to come on top. 0:09:33.240,0:09:36.680 If that's the case, you will get a perfect figure of eight, 0:09:36.680,0:09:39.200 which is also gonna be easy to untie 0:09:39.200,0:09:44.520 because the load line, this line, goes in the middle. 0:09:49.240,0:09:53.440 So real life speed looks something like this 0:09:53.440,0:09:57.880 where I just need to fix this strand sometimes a little bit. 0:09:57.880,0:10:00.000 So this way of tying figure of eight 0:10:00.000,0:10:02.720 is called figure of eight on a bite. 0:10:02.720,0:10:05.480 So basically you need the secure attachment point 0:10:05.480,0:10:07.560 on the rope, figure of eight. 0:10:08.560,0:10:10.360 Now, when it comes to safety, 0:10:10.360,0:10:13.920 you don't need any stopper knots for figure of eight, 0:10:13.920,0:10:17.520 but this tail should be at least 10 centimeters long. 0:10:17.520,0:10:20.840 So basically one fist or longer. 0:10:20.840,0:10:22.880 In my case, I have two and a half fists, 0:10:22.880,0:10:24.760 so it's more than enough. 0:10:24.760,0:10:26.720 And if you would have a bigger tail, 0:10:26.720,0:10:29.040 and if you would have a thinner rope, 0:10:29.040,0:10:32.560 you can obviously proportionally have this tail shorter. 0:10:32.560,0:10:35.480 All right, now let's learn about hitches. 0:10:35.480,0:10:37.440 Now, if you're wondering what's the difference 0:10:37.440,0:10:40.400 between a hitch and a knot, 0:10:40.400,0:10:43.600 a knot can hold its own shape 0:10:43.600,0:10:47.640 without any external objects needed, like figure of eight, 0:10:47.640,0:10:50.400 while a hitch cannot. 0:10:50.400,0:10:53.320 So this is holding me, 0:10:53.320,0:10:58.320 but if I remove this external object from the hitch, 0:10:58.480,0:11:00.200 the hitch will fall apart. 0:11:00.200,0:11:02.680 Okay, let's start with the clothes hitch. 0:11:02.680,0:11:05.640 Take the rope with the right hand, like so. 0:11:05.640,0:11:09.080 Now the left hand crosses under the right hand 0:11:09.080,0:11:11.320 and takes the rope like so. 0:11:11.320,0:11:14.640 Notice that the thumbs are pointing away from each other, 0:11:14.640,0:11:18.920 and I have a little bit of rope slack between the hands. 0:11:18.920,0:11:22.520 Now at this point, uncross your arms, 0:11:22.520,0:11:25.240 and you will get something like this. 0:11:25.240,0:11:30.240 Now the right loop goes in front of the left one, like so. 0:11:33.240,0:11:37.000 So once again, I cross my arms, I uncross them, 0:11:37.000,0:11:41.280 and then the right loop slides on top of the left one, 0:11:41.280,0:11:45.200 and then you clip this to your carabiner or any other object, 0:11:46.320,0:11:51.320 like so, and then you can pull on the ends to tighten it. 0:11:51.320,0:11:54.480 Now what's great about this hitch 0:11:54.480,0:11:57.720 is that you can pull on either side of the rope, 0:11:57.720,0:12:01.640 and it's gonna hold, and if you want to adjust, 0:12:01.640,0:12:06.040 you loosen the belly in the middle of the knot, like so. 0:12:06.040,0:12:09.840 Let's say I want to stay at this length, 0:12:09.840,0:12:13.020 so I'm gonna pull the other end now, like so. 0:12:15.840,0:12:17.440 And I'm secure. 0:12:17.440,0:12:20.920 So this cross and uncross technique works really well 0:12:20.920,0:12:23.120 when you have two hands, 0:12:23.120,0:12:26.240 and if you don't have two hands available, 0:12:26.240,0:12:27.840 this is what you do. 0:12:27.840,0:12:31.420 You clip the carabiner as always, normally. 0:12:31.420,0:12:33.680 Now since the gate is pointing to the right, 0:12:33.680,0:12:35.400 I'm gonna use my right hand, 0:12:35.400,0:12:37.360 and I'm gonna flip it upside down 0:12:37.360,0:12:41.020 with the thumb pointing down, and take the other rope, 0:12:41.020,0:12:42.860 which is behind the carabiner. 0:12:42.860,0:12:46.280 At this point, I'm gonna untwist my hand 0:12:46.280,0:12:47.580 and clip it to the gate. 0:12:47.580,0:12:49.580 And through the carabiner. 0:12:51.580,0:12:53.680 Now when the gate is pointing left, 0:12:53.680,0:12:56.040 you need to use your left hand, so the same, 0:12:56.040,0:12:58.800 flip it upside down with the thumb pointing down, 0:12:58.800,0:13:02.640 grab the rope, untwist your hand, 0:13:02.640,0:13:04.240 and clip it to the gate. 0:13:06.240,0:13:08.680 And clothes hitch is another great knot 0:13:08.680,0:13:11.400 if you like playing with sticks. 0:13:11.400,0:13:13.520 It holds really well. 0:13:13.520,0:13:15.960 I guess this will get a lot of comments, right? 0:13:17.960,0:13:20.560 A great visual check if you did it correctly. 0:13:20.560,0:13:22.760 Both strands that exit the hitch 0:13:22.760,0:13:26.640 need to exit from the middle of the knot. 0:13:26.640,0:13:30.040 So they are both kinda squeezed inside, 0:13:31.040,0:13:33.960 and they're exiting on the opposite sides. 0:13:33.960,0:13:35.760 There is a rope between them. 0:13:35.760,0:13:39.560 Okay, next hitch starts exactly the same as before. 0:13:39.560,0:13:43.560 But at this point, instead of sliding the right loop 0:13:43.560,0:13:46.800 over the left one, imagine that you have a book 0:13:46.800,0:13:49.680 in front of you, and these loops are kind of like 0:13:49.680,0:13:53.280 pages of the book, and you want to close the book. 0:13:54.240,0:13:55.080 Like so. 0:13:56.280,0:13:57.520 So here is another angle. 0:13:57.520,0:14:02.280 I cross my arms, I uncross, and then I close the book. 0:14:02.280,0:14:05.880 Now what I'm doing here, I'm turning the book 0:14:05.880,0:14:09.560 like so before I'm clipping to the carabiner. 0:14:09.560,0:14:12.240 And the reason for this twist that I did 0:14:12.240,0:14:15.720 is to keep the break side of the rope, 0:14:15.720,0:14:17.640 this one, away from the gate. 0:14:17.640,0:14:19.640 So with this rope, when it's running, 0:14:19.640,0:14:22.280 it's not running over the gate. 0:14:22.280,0:14:24.880 So when I load, the knot will flip. 0:14:24.880,0:14:26.320 This is totally normal. 0:14:26.320,0:14:28.880 And then I can go down like so. 0:14:31.160,0:14:33.200 And then I can close the book. 0:14:33.200,0:14:38.040 So, and as you might have guessed, 0:14:38.040,0:14:40.920 this is the knot or the hitch that you would use 0:14:40.920,0:14:43.120 in case you would drop your belaying device. 0:14:43.120,0:14:44.640 And now you need to go down. 0:14:44.640,0:14:49.160 So take a bit of slack, like so. 0:14:50.080,0:14:52.280 Now, one thing to know about this hitch 0:14:52.280,0:14:55.000 is that the most breaking strength it has 0:14:55.000,0:14:59.040 when these strands are parallel to each other. 0:14:59.040,0:15:03.360 It's not down here like on normal belaying devices. 0:15:03.360,0:15:07.280 It's actually up in the case of a rappel, like so. 0:15:08.360,0:15:12.800 So, like so, and then you can lower yourself down. 0:15:13.680,0:15:16.480 So hopefully you will never need to use this, 0:15:16.480,0:15:19.720 but in case you do, close your book or pray. 0:15:19.720,0:15:22.520 That's also a good way to remember. 0:15:22.520,0:15:25.520 You can also belay a climber using this. 0:15:25.520,0:15:27.640 One thing to know about that is that 0:15:27.640,0:15:31.120 when you're switching between giving slack and taking slack, 0:15:31.120,0:15:33.400 the knot will flip upside down. 0:15:33.400,0:15:34.960 This is totally normal. 0:15:35.800,0:15:38.720 So it keeps flipping every time you switch 0:15:38.720,0:15:40.520 taking slack to giving slack. 0:15:42.040,0:15:43.520 That's how it should be. 0:15:43.520,0:15:46.000 Another very critical thing to know 0:15:46.000,0:15:49.880 is that it will twist your rope like crazy. 0:15:49.880,0:15:52.320 So this is not the best knot 0:15:52.320,0:15:55.400 if you want to rappel a lot, a lot, a lot. 0:15:55.400,0:15:58.280 You will have a lot, a lot, a lot of tangles in your rope. 0:15:58.280,0:16:01.480 So in case of emergency, once again, 0:16:01.480,0:16:04.840 cross your arms, uncross, and then pray. 0:16:07.600,0:16:11.480 And before you go down, don't forget to test it 0:16:11.480,0:16:14.400 before you unclip any other protection. 0:16:16.240,0:16:19.040 All right, moving on to friction hitches. 0:16:19.040,0:16:22.760 These are special hitches that can slide on the rope, 0:16:22.760,0:16:25.720 but when you load it, it bites. 0:16:25.720,0:16:29.280 And this is super useful in wide variety applications 0:16:29.280,0:16:31.800 from backuping your belaying device 0:16:31.800,0:16:35.120 to rigging something where you need to tension the rope more 0:16:35.120,0:16:38.360 or rescuing somebody or yourself. 0:16:38.360,0:16:41.520 And I'm gonna show you three most common hitches, 0:16:41.520,0:16:43.520 but don't worry, they're kind of similar. 0:16:43.520,0:16:45.480 So I'm gonna explain the differences 0:16:45.480,0:16:48.240 so you can understand in which application 0:16:48.240,0:16:49.720 which one is better. 0:16:49.720,0:16:52.440 All right, let's start with the prasic. 0:16:52.440,0:16:54.480 The first thing I do when I tie prasic 0:16:54.480,0:16:58.320 is move my loop to the side a little bit. 0:16:58.320,0:17:03.320 Then I pass the knot through itself, like so, 0:17:04.120,0:17:06.280 and make it tight again. 0:17:06.280,0:17:10.280 Then I pass the knot one more time, like so. 0:17:10.280,0:17:14.320 Notice that I'm keeping these coils coiling inwards 0:17:14.320,0:17:16.480 towards each other, like here. 0:17:16.480,0:17:20.680 And then I pass a third time, like so. 0:17:20.680,0:17:24.680 Now, at this point, I want to pull on one of these strands 0:17:24.680,0:17:26.040 to offset the knot. 0:17:26.040,0:17:28.160 So I'm gonna pull on this strand 0:17:29.040,0:17:32.880 while maintaining the knot neat. 0:17:38.000,0:17:41.360 So that's the end result. 0:17:41.360,0:17:43.440 Now, to double-check the prasic, 0:17:43.440,0:17:46.960 you can kind of see a big smiley with the tongue, 0:17:46.960,0:17:50.560 and all the coils are nice and parallel to each other. 0:17:50.560,0:17:52.840 There is nothing overlapping here. 0:17:52.840,0:17:56.760 And you can clip it to yourself, like so, 0:17:58.400,0:18:00.960 and it should hold you. 0:18:00.960,0:18:05.040 Now, prasics are not releasable under tension, 0:18:05.960,0:18:09.920 and when you load it hard, it might be hard to release. 0:18:09.920,0:18:13.280 And to help to release, you kind of want to open that mouth 0:18:13.280,0:18:17.920 that I was talking, and that helps to loosen up the prasic. 0:18:17.920,0:18:22.400 So prasics are very strong, and they work in both directions. 0:18:22.400,0:18:24.840 So if you're not planning to move it much 0:18:24.840,0:18:27.920 in certain rigging situations, this is great. 0:18:27.920,0:18:31.040 All right, next one is a clem heist. 0:18:31.040,0:18:34.960 For this one, I like to offset the knot from the beginning, 0:18:34.960,0:18:38.280 and then take the other end behind the rope, 0:18:38.280,0:18:41.600 kind of measure one finger here, 0:18:41.600,0:18:46.600 and then you start rolling around or wrapping around 0:18:46.600,0:18:48.400 or coiling around. 0:18:48.400,0:18:52.000 This is much easier than original prasic. 0:18:52.000,0:18:54.320 And at this point, you take the knot, 0:18:54.320,0:18:59.000 pass through the upper loop, like so, and pull it down. 0:19:03.240,0:19:08.040 So again, it's important to make it very nice and tidy, 0:19:08.040,0:19:10.760 and also to make sure that this loop 0:19:10.760,0:19:13.080 that you just passed your rope through 0:19:13.080,0:19:16.920 is not longer than entire length of the knot. 0:19:16.920,0:19:19.000 Of course, when you're gonna load it, 0:19:19.000,0:19:21.680 it's gonna stretch, and that's okay. 0:19:21.680,0:19:26.480 But if you make it too long, you will have way less friction. 0:19:26.480,0:19:28.520 All right, the clem heist. 0:19:29.760,0:19:33.000 Same as the prasic, it's very strong 0:19:33.000,0:19:35.920 and not releasable under tension. 0:19:35.920,0:19:40.920 However, unlike the prasic, well-tight clem heist 0:19:40.920,0:19:43.520 should be easier to release. 0:19:43.520,0:19:46.960 And similar to prasic, when you want to release it, 0:19:46.960,0:19:51.960 you want to open this lip that you passed your tail through. 0:19:52.840,0:19:55.120 That helps to loosen it up. 0:19:55.120,0:19:59.800 Now, unlike prasics, clem heist is single directional. 0:19:59.800,0:20:04.440 So it works best if you pull it downwards, in my case. 0:20:04.440,0:20:07.160 It kind of works if you pull up as well, 0:20:07.160,0:20:08.640 but it's not designed for that, 0:20:08.640,0:20:10.360 and it's gonna be much weaker. 0:20:10.360,0:20:13.040 So due to the fact that it's a little bit easier 0:20:13.040,0:20:17.200 to release sometimes, and it's holding very strong, 0:20:17.200,0:20:21.000 a lot of climbers prefer this knot over the prasic 0:20:21.000,0:20:22.760 when you need to ascend the rope. 0:20:22.760,0:20:25.720 So you can move it easier up and then load it, 0:20:25.720,0:20:27.720 move it up and then load it. 0:20:27.720,0:20:30.840 All right, and the last one is an auto block. 0:20:30.840,0:20:33.000 It starts similar to the clem heist. 0:20:33.000,0:20:36.400 I like to offset this knot a little bit, 0:20:36.400,0:20:41.400 and then start wrapping around like we already did before. 0:20:42.200,0:20:44.320 And now at this point, 0:20:44.320,0:20:47.080 instead of putting the knot through the loop, 0:20:47.080,0:20:48.960 what we did with the clem heist, 0:20:48.960,0:20:51.200 you want to take both of these loops 0:20:52.120,0:20:54.280 and clip it with the carabiner. 0:20:57.360,0:21:01.560 So once you load it, it's gonna look a little bit funky, 0:21:01.560,0:21:02.920 but it should grab. 0:21:02.920,0:21:07.920 And auto block is commonly used as a backup 0:21:08.360,0:21:12.320 for your belay device in extended repel situation. 0:21:13.360,0:21:17.200 So since it doesn't bite that much, 0:21:18.200,0:21:21.400 it's still okay because you don't need that much force 0:21:21.400,0:21:23.320 to hold the break side of the rope. 0:21:23.320,0:21:27.880 However, the ability to release this knot under tension 0:21:27.880,0:21:32.440 is what makes it a great option for repelling. 0:21:32.440,0:21:35.240 So here's another demonstration, auto block. 0:21:35.240,0:21:37.640 Although being the weakest out of the three, 0:21:37.640,0:21:39.760 it still can hold my weight. 0:21:39.760,0:21:43.760 However, if I pull on it from top down, it will, ow. 0:21:43.760,0:21:45.880 Now, the great thing about these prasics 0:21:45.880,0:21:49.320 that they can be made simply out of the accessory cord 0:21:49.320,0:21:52.520 tied into the loop using double fisherman's knot. 0:21:52.520,0:21:55.600 One thing you need to know is that your cord 0:21:55.600,0:21:59.080 has to be at least three millimeters thinner 0:21:59.080,0:22:02.040 than the rope you're gonna be using it on. 0:22:02.040,0:22:04.880 And in general, the thinner the cord is, 0:22:04.880,0:22:07.920 the stronger the prasic is gonna grab. 0:22:07.920,0:22:09.560 And for climbing applications, 0:22:09.560,0:22:13.040 the good diameter is between five and six millimeters. 0:22:13.040,0:22:16.320 Now, other things that affect how strongly 0:22:16.320,0:22:19.520 the prasic is gonna bite is the amount of loops 0:22:19.520,0:22:20.480 you're gonna make. 0:22:20.480,0:22:22.960 So with every prasic, you can loop it 0:22:22.960,0:22:24.960 as many times as it's needed. 0:22:24.960,0:22:26.520 There is no hard rule. 0:22:26.520,0:22:28.840 Usually you start around three, 0:22:28.840,0:22:30.880 and then you have to test it to see 0:22:30.880,0:22:33.680 if it's strong enough, but not too strong. 0:22:33.680,0:22:36.800 So it's great idea to test on your own ropes, 0:22:36.800,0:22:40.800 because it also depends on the stiffness of your cord 0:22:40.800,0:22:45.280 and on your slippiness of your rope. 0:22:45.280,0:22:49.200 And if your rope, for example, is wet or frozen, 0:22:49.200,0:22:51.440 it's gonna be even slippier. 0:22:51.440,0:22:54.640 So you might need more wraps. 0:22:56.680,0:23:00.280 Also, you can tie prasics on two ropes. 0:23:00.280,0:23:01.960 For example, when you're rappelling, 0:23:01.960,0:23:04.040 the thing you need to know is that two ropes 0:23:04.040,0:23:06.880 have more surface for the prasic to bite, 0:23:06.880,0:23:09.320 and usually the prasic will bite harder. 0:23:09.320,0:23:11.520 So you might need less wraps. 0:23:11.520,0:23:16.200 So very budget-friendly and super useful thing to have, 0:23:16.200,0:23:19.280 but you can also buy already pre-made prasics. 0:23:19.280,0:23:20.360 They are even better, 0:23:20.360,0:23:22.080 because they are more friction resistant, 0:23:22.080,0:23:24.640 they are softer, and it's easier to tie them. 0:23:24.640,0:23:27.840 However, make sure to not buy too thick one. 0:23:27.840,0:23:29.680 They're used for other applications. 0:23:29.680,0:23:32.120 You need a thinner one for sport climbing. 0:23:32.120,0:23:33.960 And in case you get stuck on the route 0:23:33.960,0:23:37.240 and you want to escape, but you don't have a prasic, 0:23:37.240,0:23:39.960 well, maybe you have shoes with laces 0:23:39.960,0:23:41.880 that you can make your prasic out of. 0:23:41.880,0:23:43.880 And here, I forgot to mention 0:23:43.880,0:23:46.400 one very important thing about prasics, 0:23:46.400,0:23:49.280 that you should not rely on them fully. 0:23:49.280,0:23:52.840 You always have to have a very, very solid backup. 0:23:53.760,0:23:57.040 All right, so of course, there are many other knots, 0:23:57.040,0:23:58.960 but to keep your brain from melting, 0:23:58.960,0:24:01.640 I'm going to keep them for the future episodes. 0:24:01.640,0:24:05.000 And for now, I want to say special thank you for Mammut 0:24:05.000,0:24:06.840 for sponsoring this video, 0:24:06.840,0:24:09.560 since I put a lot of energy into these videos 0:24:09.560,0:24:12.000 to make them as quality as possible. 0:24:12.000,0:24:13.960 It's great to partner with the brand 0:24:13.960,0:24:16.520 who also cares about quality a lot. 0:24:16.520,0:24:18.000 So thank you, Mammut. 0:24:18.000,0:24:21.680 And thank you, every single of you who are supporting me 0:24:21.680,0:24:23.480 by visiting my website. 0:24:23.480,0:24:25.560 That helps a ton. 0:24:25.560,0:24:30.560 So I can make more of these videos. 0:24:32.320,0:24:34.920 I'm so bad at these outros. 0:24:34.920,0:24:55.920 I'm going to leave it like that.