[Script Info]
Title: 
[Events]
Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text
Dialogue: 0,0:00:00.00,0:00:04.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right, let's learn some knots,\Nshall we?
Dialogue: 0,0:00:04.60,0:00:06.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, if you are one of these people
Dialogue: 0,0:00:06.80,0:00:09.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,who cannot remember how to tie knots
Dialogue: 0,0:00:09.00,0:00:12.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and when to use which knot,\Ngood news, I gotcha.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:12.16,0:00:15.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In this video, I'm gonna show you\Nthe most essential knots
Dialogue: 0,0:00:15.52,0:00:18.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that can get you out of any situation
Dialogue: 0,0:00:18.44,0:00:22.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and techniques, how to tie them super fast
Dialogue: 0,0:00:22.92,0:00:26.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and in a way that you will not forget\Nhow it's done.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:26.32,0:00:27.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right, let's begin.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:27.72,0:00:31.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If I would ask you to tie\Nthe most simple knot you can on the rope,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:31.76,0:00:34.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you would do something like this.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:36.60,0:00:40.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And if you tighten this, \Nyou will get an overhand knot.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:41.48,0:00:45.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, if you would do the same, \Nwhat we just did,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:46.28,0:00:51.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and wrap the tail once more, \Nyou get something like that.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:52.32,0:00:56.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And if you tighten this and dress it well,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:56.56,0:00:59.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you will get a double overhand knot,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:59.12,0:01:01.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is also known as a stopper knot.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:01.80,0:01:04.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So this is the knot \Nthat should always live
Dialogue: 0,0:01:04.16,0:01:05.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at the end of your rope.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:05.88,0:01:09.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And it's obviously used to stop your rope
Dialogue: 0,0:01:09.68,0:01:12.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from slipping through your belaying device
Dialogue: 0,0:01:12.84,0:01:16.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and dropping your climber to death\Nor yourself.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:16.28,0:01:18.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right, let's continue.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:18.52,0:01:23.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Make a gun with your right hand \Nand place the rope like so,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:23.52,0:01:27.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where the gun is pointing towards \Nthe end of the rope.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:27.48,0:01:31.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now take the rope and \Nwrap around your fingers like so
Dialogue: 0,0:01:31.32,0:01:33.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and make an X here.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:33.84,0:01:43.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Wrap the rope again \Nand put the tail through the X like so.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:46.24,0:01:51.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So now, if you look into this, \Nyou will notice
Dialogue: 0,0:01:51.08,0:01:54.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that on one side \Nwe have two parallel strands,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:54.24,0:01:56.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,while on other side we have an X
Dialogue: 0,0:01:56.44,0:01:58.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the rope is going through the X.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:58.68,0:02:02.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If we tighten this, \Nwe get a double overhand again,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:02.80,0:02:04.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or a stopper knot again.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:04.44,0:02:08.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So in full speed, \Nit looks something like this.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:08.44,0:02:11.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And if you would want a triple overhand,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:11.20,0:02:15.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you make an X \Nand then you make one extra loop,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:15.44,0:02:17.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like kind of like extra X,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:17.80,0:02:22.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and put the tail through both of them,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:23.48,0:02:24.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like so.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:25.16,0:02:27.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So you would get the triple overhand knot.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:28.84,0:02:30.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Okay, let's make a gun again.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:30.68,0:02:34.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And previously we had the gun \Npointing towards the tail.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:34.80,0:02:36.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This time we flip it around.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:36.44,0:02:39.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The gun points away from the tail.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:39.56,0:02:42.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And we will tie the same knot as before,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:42.00,0:02:45.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where we go once, make an X,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:45.44,0:02:50.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and now we make a bite \Nand put this bite through the X,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:52.96,0:02:54.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like so.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:55.68,0:03:00.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you tighten this, \Nyou should get exactly the same knot,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:00.48,0:03:03.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which has two parallel strands on one side
Dialogue: 0,0:03:03.16,0:03:05.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and an X on the other side.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:05.44,0:03:08.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So this knot is a sliding knot.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:08.52,0:03:14.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If I load it, it slides \Nuntil it cannot slide anymore.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:14.58,0:03:16.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So this is really great knot
Dialogue: 0,0:03:16.22,0:03:19.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you need a tight \Nconnection to some object.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:19.42,0:03:21.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For example, in the rope axis,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:21.07,0:03:24.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's very commonly used \Nto hook to the carabiners.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:24.75,0:03:27.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It prevents the carabiner \Nfrom flopping around
Dialogue: 0,0:03:27.36,0:03:28.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or cross loading.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:28.53,0:03:31.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Plus this knot is very, very small \Nand compact.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:31.88,0:03:35.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So this might be very useful \Nin certain rigging situations
Dialogue: 0,0:03:35.56,0:03:38.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where you need to get \Nvery close to your carabiner.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:38.35,0:03:41.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, one really important aspect \Nabout this knot
Dialogue: 0,0:03:41.15,0:03:43.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is that it's pretty much impossible
Dialogue: 0,0:03:43.66,0:03:45.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to visually check it.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:45.35,0:03:47.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That's why you have to do a function test,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:47.78,0:03:50.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,meaning take your load line and pull.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:50.33,0:03:55.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The loop should get smaller \Nand the knot will tighten.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:55.34,0:03:59.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you tied it incorrectly, \Nas you pull on the load line,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:59.21,0:04:00.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this is what happens.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:00.75,0:04:03.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The tail will slip out.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:03.82,0:04:06.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And this is called a death knot \Nfor a reason.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:06.64,0:04:10.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And death knot basically happens \Nwhen during the tying,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:10.16,0:04:13.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you point your gun towards the tail.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:13.03,0:04:15.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So instead of that, \Nas I showed you before,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:15.16,0:04:17.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you point away from the tail
Dialogue: 0,0:04:17.69,0:04:21.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then you will get a knot \Nwhich functions properly,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:21.76,0:04:24.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but always, always function check.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:24.41,0:04:26.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now to tie this knot around an object,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:26.84,0:04:31.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,take the tail and then you start \Nwrapping this tail around the rope,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:31.78,0:04:32.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like so.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:32.69,0:04:34.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So you go once
Dialogue: 0,0:04:34.21,0:04:39.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then when you go second time, \Nyou form an X here.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:39.08,0:04:44.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And now you want to take the tail \Nand pass through the X,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:44.20,0:04:45.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as always.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:45.87,0:04:48.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Tail goes through the X.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:48.09,0:04:51.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And since this knot \Nconsumes very little rope,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:51.12,0:04:53.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I like using it as a stopper knot
Dialogue: 0,0:04:53.21,0:04:55.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tied to my red end of my rope bag.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:56.36,0:04:59.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So a great little knot,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:59.32,0:05:01.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but the biggest disadvantage of it
Dialogue: 0,0:05:01.55,0:05:04.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is if you load it really hard,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:04.80,0:05:08.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you will have really hard time untying it.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:08.90,0:05:11.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In this case, when you have a carabiner,\Nit's okay,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:11.44,0:05:13.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because you can unclip from carabiner
Dialogue: 0,0:05:13.24,0:05:15.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then it's much easier to untie.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:15.56,0:05:18.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However, if you would tie \Nonto some object,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:19.48,0:05:21.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then it's another story.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:21.84,0:05:25.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right, let's make \Nanother stopper knot,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:25.12,0:05:27.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but this time don't make it tight.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:27.80,0:05:29.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Leave a little hole here
Dialogue: 0,0:05:29.72,0:05:31.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so you can stick your finger through.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:31.95,0:05:34.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However, instead of\Nsticking my finger through,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:34.16,0:05:36.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm gonna stick another rope through.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:36.44,0:05:39.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now I'm gonna tighten \Nthe orange knot a little bit.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:39.96,0:05:41.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And now here is the trick.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:41.56,0:05:45.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Notice the last strand on the orange knot \Non the right side.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:45.84,0:05:49.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So it's this one, \Nand it kind of goes that way.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:49.26,0:05:53.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So the trick is\Nto start tying the green knot
Dialogue: 0,0:05:53.12,0:05:54.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the same direction.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:54.32,0:05:57.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If I go the other direction, \Nit's not gonna be good.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:57.28,0:05:59.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So I go the same direction,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:59.52,0:06:05.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I cross over itself, \Nwhich forms an X as always.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:05.00,0:06:09.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And then I put the tail \Nunder the X as always.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:09.40,0:06:14.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So if I tighten the green knot, \NI tighten the orange knot.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:14.68,0:06:18.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And now if I pull them together, \Nthey come together
Dialogue: 0,0:06:19.28,0:06:22.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and form a knot, which looks like this,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:22.52,0:06:25.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where I have four parallel strands on one side.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:25.48,0:06:29.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And if I flip it over, I have two Xs.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:29.16,0:06:30.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,One, two.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:30.88,0:06:34.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So this knot is called double fisherman's knot.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:34.20,0:06:36.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And it's because fishers use this knot
Dialogue: 0,0:06:36.52,0:06:38.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to join their fishing lines.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:38.76,0:06:40.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However, in fishing lines,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:40.00,0:06:42.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,since they're very skinny and slippery,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:42.12,0:06:45.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they often use triple or quadruple version of this knot.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:45.64,0:06:46.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,While in the climbing,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:46.60,0:06:49.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's obviously a great knot to join two ropes.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:49.56,0:06:51.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's really secure.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:51.20,0:06:54.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You can use different diameters of the ropes.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:54.12,0:06:56.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However, one disadvantage of this knot
Dialogue: 0,0:06:56.56,0:06:59.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is that same as with scaffold before,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:59.60,0:07:02.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you load it really heavy,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:02.28,0:07:04.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's gonna be hard to untie.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:04.68,0:07:07.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And of course, there are other knots for joining two ropes
Dialogue: 0,0:07:07.88,0:07:11.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that are even better in certain situations.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:11.00,0:07:13.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I will cover them in future episodes.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:13.36,0:07:15.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But for the basics, double fisherman's
Dialogue: 0,0:07:15.76,0:07:17.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is what everybody should know.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:17.68,0:07:21.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Okay, next is the king of the knots, a figure of eight.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:21.48,0:07:25.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And there are two versions of this knot.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:25.04,0:07:27.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And if that's something new for you,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:27.92,0:07:31.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I've already made a video showing you my ninja method,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:31.08,0:07:35.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how to tie this knot and in a way that's easier to untie.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:35.88,0:07:39.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, if you know how to tie figure of eight
Dialogue: 0,0:07:39.32,0:07:41.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,into your harness,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:41.24,0:07:45.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you also know how to tie it into some other object.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:45.52,0:07:49.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So you follow the same procedure of follow through.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:49.12,0:07:52.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So in case you don't want to use a carabiner here,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:52.12,0:07:53.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this is a great option.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:53.44,0:07:56.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So the method where you tie into your harness
Dialogue: 0,0:07:56.20,0:07:58.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or you tie around some object
Dialogue: 0,0:07:58.52,0:08:01.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is called the figure of eight follow through.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:01.04,0:08:04.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However, there is another way to tie a figure of eight
Dialogue: 0,0:08:04.28,0:08:07.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when you want to do this in the middle of the rope.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:07.48,0:08:11.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And as you can see, this method is really fast.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:13.88,0:08:16.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Okay, so this method is really easy.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:16.64,0:08:20.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Okay, so this method is actually easier to show
Dialogue: 0,0:08:20.60,0:08:23.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and to explain, but I will try to do my best.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:23.72,0:08:26.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So I have a loop here with the tail
Dialogue: 0,0:08:26.96,0:08:29.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at the bottom of my palm.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:29.24,0:08:32.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's not here, it's here, like so.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:32.84,0:08:35.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And now I will have to whip this tail.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:35.56,0:08:49.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And this is how it looks, you whip like so.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:49.00,0:08:51.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, at this point, notice the hole
Dialogue: 0,0:08:51.56,0:08:54.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where this thumb is poking through
Dialogue: 0,0:08:54.16,0:08:59.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and use the left hand to take this tail under
Dialogue: 0,0:08:59.40,0:09:02.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and through that hole where the thumb is poking through.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:02.92,0:09:06.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And I use my index finger of the right hand
Dialogue: 0,0:09:06.00,0:09:08.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to come and help to pull it through.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:08.48,0:09:10.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Pull it through.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:10.28,0:09:14.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And at this point, this strand, which goes to the tail,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:14.20,0:09:16.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sometimes wants to be on this side,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:16.12,0:09:20.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but actually it needs to be on the other side.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:20.80,0:09:22.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, if you tighten everything,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:25.72,0:09:30.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so the tail strand needs to come kind of on top.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:30.72,0:09:33.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If this is bottom, it needs to come on top.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:33.24,0:09:36.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If that's the case, you will get a perfect figure of eight,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:36.68,0:09:39.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is also gonna be easy to untie
Dialogue: 0,0:09:39.20,0:09:44.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because the load line, this line, goes in the middle.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:49.24,0:09:53.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So real life speed looks something like this
Dialogue: 0,0:09:53.44,0:09:57.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where I just need to fix this strand sometimes a little bit.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:57.88,0:10:00.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So this way of tying figure of eight
Dialogue: 0,0:10:00.00,0:10:02.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is called figure of eight on a bite.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:02.72,0:10:05.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So basically you need the secure attachment point
Dialogue: 0,0:10:05.48,0:10:07.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the rope, figure of eight.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:08.56,0:10:10.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, when it comes to safety,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:10.36,0:10:13.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you don't need any stopper knots for figure of eight,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:13.92,0:10:17.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but this tail should be at least 10 centimeters long.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:17.52,0:10:20.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So basically one fist or longer.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:20.84,0:10:22.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In my case, I have two and a half fists,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:22.88,0:10:24.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so it's more than enough.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:24.76,0:10:26.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And if you would have a bigger tail,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:26.72,0:10:29.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and if you would have a thinner rope,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:29.04,0:10:32.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can obviously proportionally have this tail shorter.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:32.56,0:10:35.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right, now let's learn about hitches.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:35.48,0:10:37.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, if you're wondering what's the difference
Dialogue: 0,0:10:37.44,0:10:40.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,between a hitch and a knot,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:40.40,0:10:43.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a knot can hold its own shape
Dialogue: 0,0:10:43.60,0:10:47.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,without any external objects needed, like figure of eight,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:47.64,0:10:50.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,while a hitch cannot.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:50.40,0:10:53.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So this is holding me,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:53.32,0:10:58.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but if I remove this external object from the hitch,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:58.48,0:11:00.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the hitch will fall apart.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:00.20,0:11:02.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Okay, let's start with the clothes hitch.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:02.68,0:11:05.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Take the rope with the right hand, like so.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:05.64,0:11:09.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now the left hand crosses under the right hand
Dialogue: 0,0:11:09.08,0:11:11.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and takes the rope like so.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:11.32,0:11:14.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Notice that the thumbs are pointing away from each other,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:14.64,0:11:18.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I have a little bit of rope slack between the hands.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:18.92,0:11:22.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now at this point, uncross your arms,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:22.52,0:11:25.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you will get something like this.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:25.24,0:11:30.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now the right loop goes in front of the left one, like so.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:33.24,0:11:37.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So once again, I cross my arms, I uncross them,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:37.00,0:11:41.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then the right loop slides on top of the left one,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:41.28,0:11:45.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then you clip this to your carabiner or any other object,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:46.32,0:11:51.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like so, and then you can pull on the ends to tighten it.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:51.32,0:11:54.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now what's great about this hitch
Dialogue: 0,0:11:54.48,0:11:57.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is that you can pull on either side of the rope,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:57.72,0:12:01.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it's gonna hold, and if you want to adjust,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:01.64,0:12:06.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you loosen the belly in the middle of the knot, like so.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:06.04,0:12:09.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Let's say I want to stay at this length,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:09.84,0:12:13.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so I'm gonna pull the other end now, like so.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:15.84,0:12:17.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And I'm secure.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:17.44,0:12:20.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So this cross and uncross technique works really well
Dialogue: 0,0:12:20.92,0:12:23.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when you have two hands,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:23.12,0:12:26.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and if you don't have two hands available,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:26.24,0:12:27.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this is what you do.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:27.84,0:12:31.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You clip the carabiner as always, normally.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:31.42,0:12:33.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now since the gate is pointing to the right,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:33.68,0:12:35.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm gonna use my right hand,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:35.40,0:12:37.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I'm gonna flip it upside down
Dialogue: 0,0:12:37.36,0:12:41.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with the thumb pointing down, and take the other rope,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:41.02,0:12:42.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is behind the carabiner.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:42.86,0:12:46.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,At this point, I'm gonna untwist my hand
Dialogue: 0,0:12:46.28,0:12:47.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and clip it to the gate.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:47.58,0:12:49.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And through the carabiner.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:51.58,0:12:53.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now when the gate is pointing left,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:53.68,0:12:56.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you need to use your left hand, so the same,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:56.04,0:12:58.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,flip it upside down with the thumb pointing down,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:58.80,0:13:02.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,grab the rope, untwist your hand,
Dialogue: 0,0:13:02.64,0:13:04.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and clip it to the gate.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:06.24,0:13:08.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And clothes hitch is another great knot
Dialogue: 0,0:13:08.68,0:13:11.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you like playing with sticks.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:11.40,0:13:13.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It holds really well.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:13.52,0:13:15.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I guess this will get a lot of comments, right?
Dialogue: 0,0:13:17.96,0:13:20.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,A great visual check if you did it correctly.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:20.56,0:13:22.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Both strands that exit the hitch
Dialogue: 0,0:13:22.76,0:13:26.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,need to exit from the middle of the knot.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:26.64,0:13:30.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So they are both kinda squeezed inside,
Dialogue: 0,0:13:31.04,0:13:33.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and they're exiting on the opposite sides.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:33.96,0:13:35.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There is a rope between them.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:35.76,0:13:39.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Okay, next hitch starts exactly the same as before.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:39.56,0:13:43.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But at this point, instead of sliding the right loop
Dialogue: 0,0:13:43.56,0:13:46.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,over the left one, imagine that you have a book
Dialogue: 0,0:13:46.80,0:13:49.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in front of you, and these loops are kind of like
Dialogue: 0,0:13:49.68,0:13:53.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pages of the book, and you want to close the book.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:54.24,0:13:55.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Like so.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:56.28,0:13:57.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So here is another angle.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:57.52,0:14:02.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I cross my arms, I uncross, and then I close the book.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:02.28,0:14:05.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now what I'm doing here, I'm turning the book
Dialogue: 0,0:14:05.88,0:14:09.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like so before I'm clipping to the carabiner.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:09.56,0:14:12.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the reason for this twist that I did
Dialogue: 0,0:14:12.24,0:14:15.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is to keep the break side of the rope,
Dialogue: 0,0:14:15.72,0:14:17.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this one, away from the gate.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:17.64,0:14:19.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So with this rope, when it's running,
Dialogue: 0,0:14:19.64,0:14:22.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's not running over the gate.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:22.28,0:14:24.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So when I load, the knot will flip.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:24.88,0:14:26.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is totally normal.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:26.32,0:14:28.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And then I can go down like so.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:31.16,0:14:33.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And then I can close the book.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:33.20,0:14:38.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, and as you might have guessed,
Dialogue: 0,0:14:38.04,0:14:40.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this is the knot or the hitch that you would use
Dialogue: 0,0:14:40.92,0:14:43.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in case you would drop your belaying device.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:43.12,0:14:44.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And now you need to go down.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:44.64,0:14:49.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So take a bit of slack, like so.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:50.08,0:14:52.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, one thing to know about this hitch
Dialogue: 0,0:14:52.28,0:14:55.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is that the most breaking strength it has
Dialogue: 0,0:14:55.00,0:14:59.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when these strands are parallel to each other.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:59.04,0:15:03.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's not down here like on normal belaying devices.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:03.36,0:15:07.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's actually up in the case of a rappel, like so.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:08.36,0:15:12.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, like so, and then you can lower yourself down.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:13.68,0:15:16.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So hopefully you will never need to use this,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:16.48,0:15:19.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but in case you do, close your book or pray.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:19.72,0:15:22.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That's also a good way to remember.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:22.52,0:15:25.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You can also belay a climber using this.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:25.52,0:15:27.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,One thing to know about that is that
Dialogue: 0,0:15:27.64,0:15:31.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when you're switching between giving slack and taking slack,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:31.12,0:15:33.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the knot will flip upside down.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:33.40,0:15:34.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is totally normal.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:35.80,0:15:38.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So it keeps flipping every time you switch
Dialogue: 0,0:15:38.72,0:15:40.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,taking slack to giving slack.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:42.04,0:15:43.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That's how it should be.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:43.52,0:15:46.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Another very critical thing to know
Dialogue: 0,0:15:46.00,0:15:49.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is that it will twist your rope like crazy.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:49.88,0:15:52.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So this is not the best knot
Dialogue: 0,0:15:52.32,0:15:55.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you want to rappel a lot, a lot, a lot.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:55.40,0:15:58.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You will have a lot, a lot, a lot of tangles in your rope.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:58.28,0:16:01.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So in case of emergency, once again,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:01.48,0:16:04.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,cross your arms, uncross, and then pray.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:07.60,0:16:11.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And before you go down, don't forget to test it
Dialogue: 0,0:16:11.48,0:16:14.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,before you unclip any other protection.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:16.24,0:16:19.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right, moving on to friction hitches.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:19.04,0:16:22.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,These are special hitches that can slide on the rope,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:22.76,0:16:25.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but when you load it, it bites.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:25.72,0:16:29.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And this is super useful in wide variety applications
Dialogue: 0,0:16:29.28,0:16:31.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from backuping your belaying device
Dialogue: 0,0:16:31.80,0:16:35.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to rigging something where you need to tension the rope more
Dialogue: 0,0:16:35.12,0:16:38.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or rescuing somebody or yourself.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:38.36,0:16:41.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And I'm gonna show you three most common hitches,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:41.52,0:16:43.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but don't worry, they're kind of similar.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:43.52,0:16:45.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So I'm gonna explain the differences
Dialogue: 0,0:16:45.48,0:16:48.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so you can understand in which application
Dialogue: 0,0:16:48.24,0:16:49.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which one is better.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:49.72,0:16:52.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right, let's start with the prasic.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:52.44,0:16:54.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The first thing I do when I tie prasic
Dialogue: 0,0:16:54.48,0:16:58.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is move my loop to the side a little bit.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:58.32,0:17:03.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Then I pass the knot through itself, like so,
Dialogue: 0,0:17:04.12,0:17:06.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and make it tight again.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:06.28,0:17:10.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Then I pass the knot one more time, like so.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:10.28,0:17:14.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Notice that I'm keeping these coils coiling inwards
Dialogue: 0,0:17:14.32,0:17:16.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,towards each other, like here.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:16.48,0:17:20.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And then I pass a third time, like so.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:20.68,0:17:24.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, at this point, I want to pull on one of these strands
Dialogue: 0,0:17:24.68,0:17:26.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to offset the knot.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:26.04,0:17:28.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So I'm gonna pull on this strand
Dialogue: 0,0:17:29.04,0:17:32.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,while maintaining the knot neat.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:38.00,0:17:41.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So that's the end result.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:41.36,0:17:43.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, to double-check the prasic,
Dialogue: 0,0:17:43.44,0:17:46.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can kind of see a big smiley with the tongue,
Dialogue: 0,0:17:46.96,0:17:50.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and all the coils are nice and parallel to each other.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:50.56,0:17:52.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There is nothing overlapping here.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:52.84,0:17:56.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And you can clip it to yourself, like so,
Dialogue: 0,0:17:58.40,0:18:00.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it should hold you.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:00.96,0:18:05.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, prasics are not releasable under tension,
Dialogue: 0,0:18:05.96,0:18:09.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and when you load it hard, it might be hard to release.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:09.92,0:18:13.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And to help to release, you kind of want to open that mouth
Dialogue: 0,0:18:13.28,0:18:17.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that I was talking, and that helps to loosen up the prasic.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:17.92,0:18:22.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So prasics are very strong, and they work in both directions.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:22.40,0:18:24.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So if you're not planning to move it much
Dialogue: 0,0:18:24.84,0:18:27.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in certain rigging situations, this is great.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:27.92,0:18:31.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right, next one is a clem heist.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:31.04,0:18:34.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For this one, I like to offset the knot from the beginning,
Dialogue: 0,0:18:34.96,0:18:38.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then take the other end behind the rope,
Dialogue: 0,0:18:38.28,0:18:41.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,kind of measure one finger here,
Dialogue: 0,0:18:41.60,0:18:46.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then you start rolling around or wrapping around
Dialogue: 0,0:18:46.60,0:18:48.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or coiling around.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:48.40,0:18:52.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is much easier than original prasic.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:52.00,0:18:54.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And at this point, you take the knot,
Dialogue: 0,0:18:54.32,0:18:59.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pass through the upper loop, like so, and pull it down.
Dialogue: 0,0:19:03.24,0:19:08.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So again, it's important to make it very nice and tidy,
Dialogue: 0,0:19:08.04,0:19:10.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and also to make sure that this loop
Dialogue: 0,0:19:10.76,0:19:13.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that you just passed your rope through
Dialogue: 0,0:19:13.08,0:19:16.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is not longer than entire length of the knot.
Dialogue: 0,0:19:16.92,0:19:19.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Of course, when you're gonna load it,
Dialogue: 0,0:19:19.00,0:19:21.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's gonna stretch, and that's okay.
Dialogue: 0,0:19:21.68,0:19:26.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But if you make it too long, you will have way less friction.
Dialogue: 0,0:19:26.48,0:19:28.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right, the clem heist.
Dialogue: 0,0:19:29.76,0:19:33.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Same as the prasic, it's very strong
Dialogue: 0,0:19:33.00,0:19:35.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and not releasable under tension.
Dialogue: 0,0:19:35.92,0:19:40.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However, unlike the prasic, well-tight clem heist
Dialogue: 0,0:19:40.92,0:19:43.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,should be easier to release.
Dialogue: 0,0:19:43.52,0:19:46.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And similar to prasic, when you want to release it,
Dialogue: 0,0:19:46.96,0:19:51.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you want to open this lip that you passed your tail through.
Dialogue: 0,0:19:52.84,0:19:55.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That helps to loosen it up.
Dialogue: 0,0:19:55.12,0:19:59.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, unlike prasics, clem heist is single directional.
Dialogue: 0,0:19:59.80,0:20:04.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So it works best if you pull it downwards, in my case.
Dialogue: 0,0:20:04.44,0:20:07.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It kind of works if you pull up as well,
Dialogue: 0,0:20:07.16,0:20:08.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but it's not designed for that,
Dialogue: 0,0:20:08.64,0:20:10.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it's gonna be much weaker.
Dialogue: 0,0:20:10.36,0:20:13.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So due to the fact that it's a little bit easier
Dialogue: 0,0:20:13.04,0:20:17.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to release sometimes, and it's holding very strong,
Dialogue: 0,0:20:17.20,0:20:21.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a lot of climbers prefer this knot over the prasic
Dialogue: 0,0:20:21.00,0:20:22.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when you need to ascend the rope.
Dialogue: 0,0:20:22.76,0:20:25.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So you can move it easier up and then load it,
Dialogue: 0,0:20:25.72,0:20:27.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,move it up and then load it.
Dialogue: 0,0:20:27.72,0:20:30.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right, and the last one is an auto block.
Dialogue: 0,0:20:30.84,0:20:33.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It starts similar to the clem heist.
Dialogue: 0,0:20:33.00,0:20:36.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I like to offset this knot a little bit,
Dialogue: 0,0:20:36.40,0:20:41.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then start wrapping around like we already did before.
Dialogue: 0,0:20:42.20,0:20:44.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And now at this point,
Dialogue: 0,0:20:44.32,0:20:47.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,instead of putting the knot through the loop,
Dialogue: 0,0:20:47.08,0:20:48.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what we did with the clem heist,
Dialogue: 0,0:20:48.96,0:20:51.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you want to take both of these loops
Dialogue: 0,0:20:52.12,0:20:54.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and clip it with the carabiner.
Dialogue: 0,0:20:57.36,0:21:01.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So once you load it, it's gonna look a little bit funky,
Dialogue: 0,0:21:01.56,0:21:02.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but it should grab.
Dialogue: 0,0:21:02.92,0:21:07.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And auto block is commonly used as a backup
Dialogue: 0,0:21:08.36,0:21:12.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for your belay device in extended repel situation.
Dialogue: 0,0:21:13.36,0:21:17.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So since it doesn't bite that much,
Dialogue: 0,0:21:18.20,0:21:21.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's still okay because you don't need that much force
Dialogue: 0,0:21:21.40,0:21:23.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to hold the break side of the rope.
Dialogue: 0,0:21:23.32,0:21:27.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However, the ability to release this knot under tension
Dialogue: 0,0:21:27.88,0:21:32.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is what makes it a great option for repelling.
Dialogue: 0,0:21:32.44,0:21:35.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So here's another demonstration, auto block.
Dialogue: 0,0:21:35.24,0:21:37.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Although being the weakest out of the three,
Dialogue: 0,0:21:37.64,0:21:39.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it still can hold my weight.
Dialogue: 0,0:21:39.76,0:21:43.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However, if I pull on it from top down, it will, ow.
Dialogue: 0,0:21:43.76,0:21:45.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, the great thing about these prasics
Dialogue: 0,0:21:45.88,0:21:49.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that they can be made simply out of the accessory cord
Dialogue: 0,0:21:49.32,0:21:52.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tied into the loop using double fisherman's knot.
Dialogue: 0,0:21:52.52,0:21:55.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,One thing you need to know is that your cord
Dialogue: 0,0:21:55.60,0:21:59.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,has to be at least three millimeters thinner
Dialogue: 0,0:21:59.08,0:22:02.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,than the rope you're gonna be using it on.
Dialogue: 0,0:22:02.04,0:22:04.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And in general, the thinner the cord is,
Dialogue: 0,0:22:04.88,0:22:07.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the stronger the prasic is gonna grab.
Dialogue: 0,0:22:07.92,0:22:09.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And for climbing applications,
Dialogue: 0,0:22:09.56,0:22:13.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the good diameter is between five and six millimeters.
Dialogue: 0,0:22:13.04,0:22:16.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, other things that affect how strongly
Dialogue: 0,0:22:16.32,0:22:19.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the prasic is gonna bite is the amount of loops
Dialogue: 0,0:22:19.52,0:22:20.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're gonna make.
Dialogue: 0,0:22:20.48,0:22:22.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So with every prasic, you can loop it
Dialogue: 0,0:22:22.96,0:22:24.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as many times as it's needed.
Dialogue: 0,0:22:24.96,0:22:26.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There is no hard rule.
Dialogue: 0,0:22:26.52,0:22:28.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Usually you start around three,
Dialogue: 0,0:22:28.84,0:22:30.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then you have to test it to see
Dialogue: 0,0:22:30.88,0:22:33.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if it's strong enough, but not too strong.
Dialogue: 0,0:22:33.68,0:22:36.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So it's great idea to test on your own ropes,
Dialogue: 0,0:22:36.80,0:22:40.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because it also depends on the stiffness of your cord
Dialogue: 0,0:22:40.80,0:22:45.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and on your slippiness of your rope.
Dialogue: 0,0:22:45.28,0:22:49.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And if your rope, for example, is wet or frozen,
Dialogue: 0,0:22:49.20,0:22:51.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's gonna be even slippier.
Dialogue: 0,0:22:51.44,0:22:54.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So you might need more wraps.
Dialogue: 0,0:22:56.68,0:23:00.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Also, you can tie prasics on two ropes.
Dialogue: 0,0:23:00.28,0:23:01.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For example, when you're rappelling,
Dialogue: 0,0:23:01.96,0:23:04.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the thing you need to know is that two ropes
Dialogue: 0,0:23:04.04,0:23:06.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have more surface for the prasic to bite,
Dialogue: 0,0:23:06.88,0:23:09.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and usually the prasic will bite harder.
Dialogue: 0,0:23:09.32,0:23:11.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So you might need less wraps.
Dialogue: 0,0:23:11.52,0:23:16.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So very budget-friendly and super useful thing to have,
Dialogue: 0,0:23:16.20,0:23:19.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but you can also buy already pre-made prasics.
Dialogue: 0,0:23:19.28,0:23:20.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,They are even better,
Dialogue: 0,0:23:20.36,0:23:22.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because they are more friction resistant,
Dialogue: 0,0:23:22.08,0:23:24.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they are softer, and it's easier to tie them.
Dialogue: 0,0:23:24.64,0:23:27.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However, make sure to not buy too thick one.
Dialogue: 0,0:23:27.84,0:23:29.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,They're used for other applications.
Dialogue: 0,0:23:29.68,0:23:32.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You need a thinner one for sport climbing.
Dialogue: 0,0:23:32.12,0:23:33.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And in case you get stuck on the route
Dialogue: 0,0:23:33.96,0:23:37.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you want to escape, but you don't have a prasic,
Dialogue: 0,0:23:37.24,0:23:39.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,well, maybe you have shoes with laces
Dialogue: 0,0:23:39.96,0:23:41.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that you can make your prasic out of.
Dialogue: 0,0:23:41.88,0:23:43.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And here, I forgot to mention
Dialogue: 0,0:23:43.88,0:23:46.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,one very important thing about prasics,
Dialogue: 0,0:23:46.40,0:23:49.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that you should not rely on them fully.
Dialogue: 0,0:23:49.28,0:23:52.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You always have to have a very, very solid backup.
Dialogue: 0,0:23:53.76,0:23:57.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right, so of course, there are many other knots,
Dialogue: 0,0:23:57.04,0:23:58.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but to keep your brain from melting,
Dialogue: 0,0:23:58.96,0:24:01.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm going to keep them for the future episodes.
Dialogue: 0,0:24:01.64,0:24:05.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And for now, I want to say special thank you for Mammut
Dialogue: 0,0:24:05.00,0:24:06.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for sponsoring this video,
Dialogue: 0,0:24:06.84,0:24:09.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,since I put a lot of energy into these videos
Dialogue: 0,0:24:09.56,0:24:12.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to make them as quality as possible.
Dialogue: 0,0:24:12.00,0:24:13.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's great to partner with the brand
Dialogue: 0,0:24:13.96,0:24:16.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,who also cares about quality a lot.
Dialogue: 0,0:24:16.52,0:24:18.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So thank you, Mammut.
Dialogue: 0,0:24:18.00,0:24:21.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And thank you, every single of you who are supporting me
Dialogue: 0,0:24:21.68,0:24:23.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,by visiting my website.
Dialogue: 0,0:24:23.48,0:24:25.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That helps a ton.
Dialogue: 0,0:24:25.56,0:24:30.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So I can make more of these videos.
Dialogue: 0,0:24:32.32,0:24:34.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm so bad at these outros.
Dialogue: 0,0:24:34.92,0:24:55.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm going to leave it like that.