1 00:00:00,000 --> 00:00:04,600 All right, let's learn some knots, shall we? 2 00:00:04,600 --> 00:00:06,800 Now, if you are one of these people 3 00:00:06,800 --> 00:00:09,000 who cannot remember how to tie knots 4 00:00:09,000 --> 00:00:12,160 and when to use which knot, good news, I gotcha. 5 00:00:12,160 --> 00:00:15,520 In this video, I'm gonna show you the most essential knots 6 00:00:15,520 --> 00:00:18,440 that can get you out of any situation 7 00:00:18,440 --> 00:00:22,920 and techniques, how to tie them super fast 8 00:00:22,920 --> 00:00:26,320 and in a way that you will not forget how it's done. 9 00:00:26,320 --> 00:00:27,720 All right, let's begin. 10 00:00:27,720 --> 00:00:31,757 If I would ask you to tie the most simple knot you can on the rope, 11 00:00:31,757 --> 00:00:34,840 you would do something like this. 12 00:00:36,600 --> 00:00:40,600 And if you tighten this, you will get an overhand knot. 13 00:00:41,480 --> 00:00:45,040 Now, if you would do the same, what we just did, 14 00:00:46,280 --> 00:00:51,280 and wrap the tail once more, you get something like that. 15 00:00:52,320 --> 00:00:56,560 And if you tighten this and dress it well, 16 00:00:56,560 --> 00:00:59,120 you will get a double overhand knot, 17 00:00:59,120 --> 00:01:01,800 which is also known as a stopper knot. 18 00:01:01,800 --> 00:01:04,160 So this is the knot that should always live 19 00:01:04,160 --> 00:01:05,880 at the end of your rope. 20 00:01:05,880 --> 00:01:09,680 And it's obviously used to stop your rope 21 00:01:09,680 --> 00:01:12,840 from slipping through your belaying device 22 00:01:12,840 --> 00:01:16,280 and dropping your climber to death or yourself. 23 00:01:16,280 --> 00:01:18,520 All right, let's continue. 24 00:01:18,520 --> 00:01:23,520 Make a gun with your right hand and place the rope like so, 25 00:01:23,520 --> 00:01:27,480 where the gun is pointing towards the end of the rope. 26 00:01:27,480 --> 00:01:31,320 Now take the rope and wrap around your fingers like so 27 00:01:31,320 --> 00:01:33,840 and make an X here. 28 00:01:33,840 --> 00:01:43,750 Wrap the rope again and put the tail through the X like so. 29 00:01:46,240 --> 00:01:51,390 So now, if you look into this, you will notice 30 00:01:51,390 --> 00:01:54,240 that on one side we have two parallel strands, 31 00:01:54,240 --> 00:01:56,440 while on other side we have an X 32 00:01:56,440 --> 00:01:58,680 and the rope is going through the X. 33 00:01:58,680 --> 00:02:02,800 If we tighten this, we get a double overhand again, 34 00:02:02,800 --> 00:02:04,440 or a stopper knot again. 35 00:02:04,440 --> 00:02:08,440 So in full speed, it looks something like this. 36 00:02:08,440 --> 00:02:11,200 And if you would want a triple overhand, 37 00:02:11,200 --> 00:02:15,440 you make an X and then you make one extra loop, 38 00:02:15,440 --> 00:02:17,800 like kind of like extra X, 39 00:02:17,800 --> 00:02:22,800 and put the tail through both of them, 40 00:02:23,480 --> 00:02:24,480 like so. 41 00:02:25,160 --> 00:02:27,840 So you would get the triple overhand knot. 42 00:02:28,840 --> 00:02:30,680 Okay, let's make a gun again. 43 00:02:30,680 --> 00:02:34,800 And previously we had the gun pointing towards the tail. 44 00:02:34,800 --> 00:02:36,440 This time we flip it around. 45 00:02:36,440 --> 00:02:39,560 The gun points away from the tail. 46 00:02:39,560 --> 00:02:42,000 And we will tie the same knot as before, 47 00:02:42,000 --> 00:02:45,440 where we go once, make an X, 48 00:02:45,440 --> 00:02:50,860 and now we make a bite and put this bite through the X, 49 00:02:52,960 --> 00:02:54,160 like so. 50 00:02:55,680 --> 00:03:00,480 If you tighten this, you should get exactly the same knot, 51 00:03:00,480 --> 00:03:03,160 which has two parallel strands on one side 52 00:03:03,160 --> 00:03:05,440 and an X on the other side. 53 00:03:05,440 --> 00:03:08,520 So this knot is a sliding knot. 54 00:03:08,520 --> 00:03:14,580 If I load it, it slides until it cannot slide anymore. 55 00:03:14,580 --> 00:03:16,221 So this is really great knot 56 00:03:16,221 --> 00:03:19,422 if you need a tight connection to some object. 57 00:03:19,422 --> 00:03:21,070 For example, in the rope axis, 58 00:03:21,070 --> 00:03:24,750 it's very commonly used to hook to the carabiners. 59 00:03:24,750 --> 00:03:27,360 It prevents the carabiner from flopping around 60 00:03:27,360 --> 00:03:28,530 or cross loading. 61 00:03:28,530 --> 00:03:31,883 Plus this knot is very, very small and compact. 62 00:03:31,883 --> 00:03:35,560 So this might be very useful in certain rigging situations 63 00:03:35,560 --> 00:03:38,350 where you need to get very close to your carabiner. 64 00:03:38,350 --> 00:03:41,150 Now, one really important aspect about this knot 65 00:03:41,150 --> 00:03:43,660 is that it's pretty much impossible 66 00:03:43,660 --> 00:03:45,347 to visually check it. 67 00:03:45,347 --> 00:03:47,780 That's why you have to do a function test, 68 00:03:47,780 --> 00:03:50,330 meaning take your load line and pull. 69 00:03:50,330 --> 00:03:55,337 The loop should get smaller and the knot will tighten. 70 00:03:55,337 --> 00:03:59,210 If you tied it incorrectly, as you pull on the load line, 71 00:03:59,210 --> 00:04:00,750 this is what happens. 72 00:04:00,750 --> 00:04:03,820 The tail will slip out. 73 00:04:03,820 --> 00:04:06,640 And this is called a death knot for a reason. 74 00:04:06,640 --> 00:04:10,160 And death knot basically happens when during the tying, 75 00:04:10,160 --> 00:04:13,320 if you point your gun towards the tail. 76 00:04:13,320 --> 00:04:15,160 So instead of that, as I showed you before, 77 00:04:15,160 --> 00:04:17,690 you point away from the tail 78 00:04:17,690 --> 00:04:21,760 and then you will get a knot which functions properly, 79 00:04:21,760 --> 00:04:24,410 but always, always function check. 80 00:04:24,410 --> 00:04:26,837 Now to tie this knot around an object, 81 00:04:26,837 --> 00:04:31,780 take the tail and then you start wrapping this tail around the rope, 82 00:04:31,780 --> 00:04:32,694 like so. 83 00:04:32,694 --> 00:04:34,210 So you go once 84 00:04:34,210 --> 00:04:39,080 and then when you go second time, you form an X here. 85 00:04:39,080 --> 00:04:44,200 And now you want to take the tail and pass through the X, 86 00:04:44,200 --> 00:04:45,870 as always. 87 00:04:45,870 --> 00:04:48,090 Tail goes through the X. 88 00:04:48,090 --> 00:04:51,123 And since this knot consumes very little rope, 89 00:04:51,123 --> 00:04:53,210 I like using it as a stopper knot 90 00:04:53,210 --> 00:04:55,800 tied to my red end of my rope bag. 91 00:04:56,360 --> 00:04:59,320 So a great little knot, 92 00:04:59,320 --> 00:05:01,546 but the biggest disadvantage of it 93 00:05:01,546 --> 00:05:04,800 is if you load it really hard, 94 00:05:04,800 --> 00:05:08,900 you will have really hard time untying it. 95 00:05:08,900 --> 00:05:11,440 In this case, when you have a carabiner, it's okay, 96 00:05:11,440 --> 00:05:13,240 because you can unclip from carabiner 97 00:05:13,240 --> 00:05:15,560 and then it's much easier to untie. 98 00:05:15,560 --> 00:05:18,600 However, if you would tie onto some object, 99 00:05:19,480 --> 00:05:21,840 then it's another story. 100 00:05:21,840 --> 00:05:25,120 All right, let's make another stopper knot, 101 00:05:25,120 --> 00:05:27,800 but this time don't make it tight. 102 00:05:27,800 --> 00:05:29,720 Leave a little hole here 103 00:05:29,720 --> 00:05:31,950 so you can stick your finger through. 104 00:05:31,950 --> 00:05:34,160 However, instead of sticking my finger through, 105 00:05:34,160 --> 00:05:36,440 I'm gonna stick another rope through. 106 00:05:36,440 --> 00:05:39,960 Now I'm gonna tighten the orange knot a little bit. 107 00:05:39,960 --> 00:05:41,560 And now here is the trick. 108 00:05:41,560 --> 00:05:45,840 Notice the last strand on the orange knot on the right side. 109 00:05:45,840 --> 00:05:49,259 So it's this one, and it kind of goes that way. 110 00:05:49,259 --> 00:05:53,120 So the trick is to start tying the green knot 111 00:05:53,120 --> 00:05:54,320 the same direction. 112 00:05:54,320 --> 00:05:57,280 If I go the other direction, it's not gonna be good. 113 00:05:57,280 --> 00:05:59,520 So I go the same direction, 114 00:05:59,520 --> 00:06:05,000 I cross over itself, which forms an X as always. 115 00:06:05,000 --> 00:06:09,400 And then I put the tail under the X as always. 116 00:06:09,400 --> 00:06:14,680 So if I tighten the green knot, I tighten the orange knot. 117 00:06:14,680 --> 00:06:18,360 And now if I pull them together, they come together 118 00:06:19,280 --> 00:06:22,520 and form a knot, which looks like this, 119 00:06:22,520 --> 00:06:25,480 where I have four parallel strands on one side. 120 00:06:25,480 --> 00:06:29,160 And if I flip it over, I have two Xs. 121 00:06:29,160 --> 00:06:30,880 One, two. 122 00:06:30,880 --> 00:06:34,200 So this knot is called double fisherman's knot. 123 00:06:34,200 --> 00:06:36,520 And it's because fishers use this knot 124 00:06:36,520 --> 00:06:38,760 to join their fishing lines. 125 00:06:38,760 --> 00:06:40,000 However, in fishing lines, 126 00:06:40,000 --> 00:06:42,120 since they're very skinny and slippery, 127 00:06:42,120 --> 00:06:45,540 they often use triple or quadruple version of this knot. 128 00:06:45,540 --> 00:06:46,600 While in the climbing, 129 00:06:46,600 --> 00:06:49,560 it's obviously a great knot to join two ropes. 130 00:06:49,560 --> 00:06:51,200 It's really secure. 131 00:06:51,200 --> 00:06:54,120 You can use different diameters of the ropes. 132 00:06:54,120 --> 00:06:56,560 However, one disadvantage of this knot 133 00:06:56,560 --> 00:06:59,600 is that same as with scaffold before, 134 00:06:59,600 --> 00:07:02,280 if you load it really heavy, 135 00:07:02,280 --> 00:07:04,680 it's gonna be hard to untie. 136 00:07:04,680 --> 00:07:07,880 And of course, there are other knots for joining two ropes 137 00:07:07,880 --> 00:07:11,000 that are even better in certain situations. 138 00:07:11,000 --> 00:07:13,360 I will cover them in future episodes. 139 00:07:13,360 --> 00:07:15,760 But for the basics, double fisherman's 140 00:07:15,760 --> 00:07:17,680 is what everybody should know. 141 00:07:17,680 --> 00:07:21,480 Okay, next is the king of the knots, a figure of eight. 142 00:07:21,480 --> 00:07:25,040 And there are two versions of this knot. 143 00:07:25,040 --> 00:07:27,920 And if that's something new for you, 144 00:07:27,920 --> 00:07:31,080 I've already made a video showing you my ninja method, 145 00:07:31,080 --> 00:07:35,880 how to tie this knot and in a way that's easier to untie. 146 00:07:35,880 --> 00:07:39,320 Now, if you know how to tie figure of eight 147 00:07:39,320 --> 00:07:41,240 into your harness, 148 00:07:41,240 --> 00:07:45,520 you also know how to tie it into some other object. 149 00:07:45,520 --> 00:07:49,388 So you follow the same procedure of follow through. 150 00:07:53,060 --> 00:07:55,490 So in case you don't want to use a carabiner here, 151 00:07:55,490 --> 00:07:57,440 this is a great option. 152 00:07:57,440 --> 00:07:59,940 So the method where you tie into your harness 153 00:07:59,940 --> 00:08:02,241 or you tie around some object 154 00:08:02,241 --> 00:08:04,669 is called the figure of eight follow through. 155 00:08:04,669 --> 00:08:07,910 However, there is another way to tie a figure of eight 156 00:08:07,910 --> 00:08:10,701 when you want to do this in the middle of the rope. 157 00:08:10,701 --> 00:08:15,287 And as you can see, this method is really fast. 158 00:08:17,600 --> 00:08:21,509 Okay, so this method is actually easier to show than to explain, 159 00:08:21,509 --> 00:08:23,720 but I will try to do my best. 160 00:08:23,720 --> 00:08:25,210 So I have a loop here 161 00:08:25,210 --> 00:08:29,240 with the tail at the bottom of my palm. 162 00:08:29,240 --> 00:08:32,840 It's not here, it's here, like so. 163 00:08:32,840 --> 00:08:36,380 And now I will have to whip this tail. 164 00:08:36,380 --> 00:08:39,530 And this is how it looks, you whip like so. 165 00:08:49,700 --> 00:08:52,260 Now, at this point, notice the hole 166 00:08:52,260 --> 00:08:54,870 where this thumb is poking through 167 00:08:54,870 --> 00:08:59,230 and use the left hand to take this tail 168 00:08:59,230 --> 00:09:03,580 under and through that hole where the thumb is poking through. 169 00:09:03,580 --> 00:09:06,761 And I use my index finger of the right hand 170 00:09:06,761 --> 00:09:09,200 to come and help to pull it through. 171 00:09:09,200 --> 00:09:10,910 Pull it through. 172 00:09:10,910 --> 00:09:14,950 And at this point, this strand, which goes to the tail, 173 00:09:14,950 --> 00:09:17,000 sometimes wants to be on this side, 174 00:09:17,000 --> 00:09:21,550 but actually it needs to be on the other side. 175 00:09:21,550 --> 00:09:23,970 Now, if you tighten everything, 176 00:09:26,390 --> 00:09:32,090 so the tail strand needs to come kind of on top. 177 00:09:32,090 --> 00:09:34,480 If this is bottom, it needs to come on top. 178 00:09:34,480 --> 00:09:37,800 If that's the case, you will get a perfect figure of eight, 179 00:09:37,800 --> 00:09:40,160 which is also gonna be easy to untie 180 00:09:40,160 --> 00:09:45,500 because the load line, this line, goes in the middle. 181 00:09:50,190 --> 00:09:54,340 So real life speed looks something like this 182 00:09:54,340 --> 00:10:00,100 where I just need to fix this strand sometimes a little bit. 183 00:10:00,100 --> 00:10:02,250 So this way of tying figure of eight 184 00:10:02,250 --> 00:10:04,920 is called figure of eight on a bite. 185 00:10:04,920 --> 00:10:08,650 So basically you need the secure attachment point on the rope - 186 00:10:08,650 --> 00:10:10,924 figure of eight. 187 00:10:10,924 --> 00:10:12,700 Now, when it comes to safety, 188 00:10:12,700 --> 00:10:16,080 you don't need any stopper knots for figure of eight, 189 00:10:16,080 --> 00:10:19,790 but this tail should be at least 10 centimeters long. 190 00:10:19,790 --> 00:10:23,110 So basically one fist or longer. 191 00:10:23,110 --> 00:10:25,590 In my case, I have two and a half fists, 192 00:10:25,590 --> 00:10:27,060 so it's more than enough. 193 00:10:27,060 --> 00:10:28,900 And if you would have a thinner rope, 194 00:10:28,900 --> 00:10:32,370 you can obviously proportionally have this tail shorter. 195 00:10:32,370 --> 00:10:35,265 All right, now let's learn about hitches. 196 00:10:35,265 --> 00:10:37,480 Now, if you're wondering what's the difference 197 00:10:37,480 --> 00:10:40,300 between a hitch and a knot, 198 00:10:40,300 --> 00:10:43,500 a knot can hold its own shape 199 00:10:43,500 --> 00:10:47,560 without any external objects needed, like figure of eight, 200 00:10:47,560 --> 00:10:50,400 while a hitch cannot. 201 00:10:50,400 --> 00:10:53,320 So this is holding me, 202 00:10:53,320 --> 00:10:58,320 but if I remove this external object from the hitch, 203 00:10:58,320 --> 00:11:00,110 the hitch will fall apart. 204 00:11:00,110 --> 00:11:02,650 Okay, let's start with the clothes hitch. 205 00:11:02,650 --> 00:11:05,640 Take the rope with the right hand, like so. 206 00:11:05,640 --> 00:11:09,080 Now the left hand crosses under the right hand 207 00:11:09,080 --> 00:11:11,320 and takes the rope like so. 208 00:11:11,320 --> 00:11:14,640 Notice that the thumbs are pointing away from each other, 209 00:11:14,640 --> 00:11:18,920 and I have a little bit of rope slack between the hands. 210 00:11:18,920 --> 00:11:22,520 Now at this point, uncross your arms, 211 00:11:22,520 --> 00:11:25,160 and you will get something like this. 212 00:11:25,160 --> 00:11:30,240 Now the right loop goes in front of the left one, like so. 213 00:11:33,240 --> 00:11:37,000 So once again, I cross my arms, I uncross them, 214 00:11:37,000 --> 00:11:41,280 and then the right loop slides on top of the left one, 215 00:11:41,280 --> 00:11:45,200 and then you clip this to your carabiner or any other object. 216 00:11:46,320 --> 00:11:52,160 Like so. And then you can pull on the ends to tighten it. 217 00:11:52,160 --> 00:11:54,410 Now what's great about this hitch 218 00:11:54,410 --> 00:11:57,720 is that you can pull on either side of the rope, 219 00:11:57,720 --> 00:12:01,600 and it's gonna hold, and if you want to adjust, 220 00:12:01,600 --> 00:12:06,040 you loosen the belly in the middle of the knot, like so. 221 00:12:06,040 --> 00:12:09,840 Let's say I want to stay at this length, 222 00:12:09,840 --> 00:12:13,020 so I'm gonna pull the other end now, like so. 223 00:12:15,840 --> 00:12:17,440 And I'm secure. 224 00:12:17,440 --> 00:12:20,920 So this cross and uncross technique works really well 225 00:12:20,920 --> 00:12:23,050 when you have two hands, 226 00:12:23,050 --> 00:12:26,150 and if you don't have two hands available, 227 00:12:26,150 --> 00:12:27,750 this is what you do. 228 00:12:27,750 --> 00:12:31,420 You clip the carabiner as always, normally. 229 00:12:31,420 --> 00:12:33,680 Now since the gate is pointing to the right, 230 00:12:33,680 --> 00:12:35,400 I'm gonna use my right hand, 231 00:12:35,400 --> 00:12:37,240 and I'm gonna flip it upside down 232 00:12:37,240 --> 00:12:40,904 with the thumb pointing down, and take the other rope, 233 00:12:40,904 --> 00:12:42,750 which is behind the carabiner. 234 00:12:42,750 --> 00:12:46,180 At this point, I'm gonna untwist my hand 235 00:12:46,180 --> 00:12:47,580 and clip it to the gate. 236 00:12:50,380 --> 00:12:52,380 And screw the carabiner. 237 00:12:54,212 --> 00:12:56,260 Now when the gate is pointing left, 238 00:12:56,260 --> 00:12:58,730 you need to use your left hand, so the same, 239 00:12:58,730 --> 00:13:01,570 flip it upside down with the thumb pointing down, 240 00:13:01,570 --> 00:13:05,270 grab the rope, untwist your hand, 241 00:13:05,270 --> 00:13:06,870 and clip it to the gate. 242 00:13:08,790 --> 00:13:11,401 And clothes hitch is another great knot 243 00:13:11,401 --> 00:13:14,700 if you like playing with sticks. 244 00:13:14,700 --> 00:13:16,820 It holds really well. 245 00:13:17,910 --> 00:13:22,480 I guess this will get a lot of comments, right? 246 00:13:22,480 --> 00:13:25,000 A great visual check if you did it correctly. 247 00:13:25,000 --> 00:13:27,270 Both strands that exit the hitch 248 00:13:27,270 --> 00:13:31,230 need to exit from the middle of the knot. 249 00:13:31,230 --> 00:13:35,460 So they are both kinda squeezed inside, 250 00:13:35,460 --> 00:13:38,400 and they're exiting on the opposite sides. 251 00:13:38,400 --> 00:13:40,240 There is a rope between them. 252 00:13:40,240 --> 00:13:44,650 Okay, next hitch starts exactly the same as before. 253 00:13:44,650 --> 00:13:48,330 But at this point, instead of sliding the right loop 254 00:13:48,330 --> 00:13:51,490 over the left one, imagine that you have a book 255 00:13:51,490 --> 00:13:54,561 in front of you, and these loops are kind of like 256 00:13:54,561 --> 00:13:59,060 pages of the book, and you want to close the book. 257 00:13:59,060 --> 00:14:01,030 Like so. 258 00:14:01,030 --> 00:14:02,386 So here is another angle. 259 00:14:02,386 --> 00:14:07,210 I cross my arms, I uncross, and then I close the book. 260 00:14:07,210 --> 00:14:11,261 Now what I'm doing here, I'm twisting this like so 261 00:14:11,261 --> 00:14:14,070 before I'm clipping to the carabiner. 262 00:14:14,070 --> 00:14:16,770 And the reason for this twist that I did 263 00:14:16,770 --> 00:14:20,321 is to keep the break side of the rope, 264 00:14:20,321 --> 00:14:22,230 this one, away from the gate. 265 00:14:22,230 --> 00:14:24,200 So with this rope, when it's running, 266 00:14:24,200 --> 00:14:27,230 it's not running over the gate. 267 00:14:27,230 --> 00:14:29,530 So when I load, the knot will flip. 268 00:14:29,530 --> 00:14:31,090 This is totally normal. 269 00:14:31,090 --> 00:14:34,760 And then I can go down like so. 270 00:14:35,690 --> 00:14:37,940 And as you might have guessed, 271 00:14:37,940 --> 00:14:40,920 this is the knot or the hitch that you would use 272 00:14:40,920 --> 00:14:43,120 in case you would drop your belaying device. 273 00:14:43,120 --> 00:14:44,640 And now you need to go down. 274 00:14:44,640 --> 00:14:49,160 So take a bit of slack, like so. 275 00:14:49,970 --> 00:14:52,280 Now, one thing to know about this hitch 276 00:14:52,280 --> 00:14:55,000 is that the most breaking strength it has 277 00:14:55,000 --> 00:14:58,990 when these strands are parallel to each other. 278 00:14:58,990 --> 00:15:03,360 It's not down here like on normal belaying devices. 279 00:15:03,360 --> 00:15:08,360 It's actually up in the case of a rappel. Like so. 280 00:15:08,360 --> 00:15:12,800 So, like so, and then you can lower yourself down. 281 00:15:13,590 --> 00:15:16,420 So hopefully you will never need to use this, 282 00:15:16,420 --> 00:15:19,720 but in case you do, close your book or pray. 283 00:15:19,720 --> 00:15:22,020 That's also a good way to remember. 284 00:15:22,020 --> 00:15:25,520 You can also belay a climber using this. 285 00:15:25,520 --> 00:15:27,640 One thing to know about that is that 286 00:15:27,640 --> 00:15:31,120 when you're switching between giving slack and taking slack, 287 00:15:31,120 --> 00:15:33,400 the knot will flip upside down. 288 00:15:33,400 --> 00:15:34,960 This is totally normal. 289 00:15:35,800 --> 00:15:38,720 So it keeps flipping every time you switch 290 00:15:38,720 --> 00:15:40,520 taking slack to giving slack. 291 00:15:41,900 --> 00:15:43,520 That's how it should be. 292 00:15:43,520 --> 00:15:46,000 Another very critical thing to know 293 00:15:46,000 --> 00:15:49,880 is that it will twist your rope like crazy. 294 00:15:49,880 --> 00:15:52,320 So this is not the best knot 295 00:15:52,320 --> 00:15:55,400 if you want to rappel a lot, a lot, a lot. 296 00:15:55,400 --> 00:15:58,280 You will have a lot, a lot, a lot of tangles in your rope. 297 00:15:58,280 --> 00:16:01,480 So in case of emergency, once again, 298 00:16:01,480 --> 00:16:04,840 cross your arms, uncross, and then pray. 299 00:16:07,480 --> 00:16:11,480 And before you go down, don't forget to test it 300 00:16:11,480 --> 00:16:14,400 before you unclip any other protection. 301 00:16:16,240 --> 00:16:19,040 All right, moving on to friction hitches. 302 00:16:19,040 --> 00:16:22,760 These are special hitches that can slide on the rope, 303 00:16:22,760 --> 00:16:25,720 but when you load it, it bites. 304 00:16:25,720 --> 00:16:29,280 And this is super useful in wide variety applications 305 00:16:29,280 --> 00:16:31,800 from backuping your belaying device 306 00:16:31,800 --> 00:16:35,120 to rigging something where you need to tension the rope more 307 00:16:35,120 --> 00:16:38,360 or rescuing somebody or yourself. 308 00:16:38,360 --> 00:16:41,460 And I'm gonna show you three most common hitches, 309 00:16:41,460 --> 00:16:43,520 but don't worry, they're kind of similar. 310 00:16:43,520 --> 00:16:45,480 So I'm gonna explain the differences 311 00:16:45,480 --> 00:16:48,240 so you can understand in which application 312 00:16:48,240 --> 00:16:49,720 which one is better. 313 00:16:49,720 --> 00:16:52,440 All right, let's start with the Prusik. 314 00:16:52,440 --> 00:16:54,480 The first thing I do when I tie Prusik 315 00:16:54,480 --> 00:16:58,270 is move my loop to the side a little bit. 316 00:16:58,270 --> 00:17:03,320 Then I pass the knot through itself, like so, 317 00:17:04,120 --> 00:17:06,280 and make it tight again. 318 00:17:06,280 --> 00:17:10,280 Then I pass the knot one more time, like so. 319 00:17:10,280 --> 00:17:14,320 Notice that I'm keeping these coils coiling inwards 320 00:17:14,320 --> 00:17:16,480 towards each other, like here. 321 00:17:16,480 --> 00:17:20,680 And then I pass a third time, like so. 322 00:17:20,680 --> 00:17:25,823 Now, at this point, I want to pull on one of these strands 323 00:17:25,823 --> 00:17:27,190 to offset the knot. 324 00:17:27,190 --> 00:17:29,990 So I'm gonna pull on this strand 325 00:17:29,990 --> 00:17:34,070 while maintaining the knot neat. 326 00:17:39,210 --> 00:17:42,520 So that's the end result. 327 00:17:42,520 --> 00:17:44,490 Now, to double-check the Prusik, 328 00:17:44,490 --> 00:17:48,000 you can kind of see a big smiley with the tongue, 329 00:17:48,000 --> 00:17:50,919 and all the coils are nice and parallel to each other. 330 00:17:50,919 --> 00:17:53,210 There is nothing overlapping here. 331 00:17:53,210 --> 00:17:57,300 And you can clip it to yourself, like so, 332 00:17:58,660 --> 00:18:01,270 and it should hold you. 333 00:18:01,270 --> 00:18:05,840 Now, Prusiks are not releasable under tension, 334 00:18:06,280 --> 00:18:10,280 and when you load it hard, it might be hard to release. 335 00:18:10,280 --> 00:18:11,690 And to help to release, 336 00:18:11,690 --> 00:18:14,950 you kind of want to open that mouth that I was talking, 337 00:18:14,950 --> 00:18:18,270 and that helps to loosen up the prusik. 338 00:18:18,270 --> 00:18:22,760 So Prusiks are very strong, and they work in both directions. 339 00:18:22,760 --> 00:18:25,210 So if you're not planning to move it much 340 00:18:25,210 --> 00:18:28,300 in certain rigging situations, this is great. 341 00:18:28,300 --> 00:18:31,460 All right, next one is a Klemheist. 342 00:18:31,460 --> 00:18:35,340 For this one, I like to offset the knot from the beginning, 343 00:18:35,340 --> 00:18:38,650 and then take the other end behind the rope, 344 00:18:38,650 --> 00:18:41,950 And I measure one finger here, 345 00:18:41,950 --> 00:18:46,990 and then you start rolling around or wrapping around 346 00:18:46,990 --> 00:18:48,430 or coiling around. 347 00:18:48,430 --> 00:18:51,820 This is much easier than original Prusik. 348 00:18:51,820 --> 00:18:54,320 And at this point, you take the knot, 349 00:18:54,320 --> 00:18:59,500 pass through the upper loop, like so, and pull it down. 350 00:19:03,240 --> 00:19:08,000 So again, it's important to make it very nice and tidy, 351 00:19:08,000 --> 00:19:10,760 and also to make sure that this loop 352 00:19:10,760 --> 00:19:13,080 that you just passed your rope through 353 00:19:13,080 --> 00:19:16,920 is not longer than entire length of the knot. 354 00:19:16,920 --> 00:19:19,000 Of course, when you're gonna load it, 355 00:19:19,000 --> 00:19:21,680 it's gonna stretch, and that's okay. 356 00:19:21,680 --> 00:19:26,480 But if you make it too long, you will have way less friction. 357 00:19:26,480 --> 00:19:28,520 All right, the Klemheist. 358 00:19:29,760 --> 00:19:33,000 Same as the Prusik, it's very strong 359 00:19:33,000 --> 00:19:35,920 and not releasable under tension. 360 00:19:35,920 --> 00:19:38,520 However, unlike the Prasic, 361 00:19:38,520 --> 00:19:43,690 well-tight Klemheist should be easier to release. 362 00:19:43,690 --> 00:19:47,110 And similar to Prusik, when you want to release it, 363 00:19:47,110 --> 00:19:52,980 you want to open this lip that you passed your tail through. 364 00:19:52,980 --> 00:19:55,120 That helps to loosen it up. 365 00:19:55,120 --> 00:19:59,800 Now, unlike Prusiks, Klemheist is single directional. 366 00:19:59,800 --> 00:20:04,440 So it works best if you pull it downwards, in my case. 367 00:20:04,440 --> 00:20:07,160 It kind of works if you pull up as well, 368 00:20:07,160 --> 00:20:08,640 but it's not designed for that, 369 00:20:08,640 --> 00:20:10,516 and it's gonna be much weaker. 370 00:20:10,516 --> 00:20:13,040 So due to the fact that it's a little bit easier 371 00:20:13,040 --> 00:20:17,240 to release sometimes, and it's holding very strong, 372 00:20:17,240 --> 00:20:21,000 a lot of climbers prefer this knot over the Prusik 373 00:20:21,000 --> 00:20:22,830 when you need to ascend the rope. 374 00:20:22,830 --> 00:20:25,720 So you can move it easier up and then load it, 375 00:20:25,720 --> 00:20:27,720 move it up and then load it. 376 00:20:27,720 --> 00:20:30,840 All right, and the last one is an autoblock. 377 00:20:30,840 --> 00:20:33,000 It starts similar to the Klemheist. 378 00:20:33,000 --> 00:20:36,400 I like to offset this knot a little bit, 379 00:20:36,400 --> 00:20:42,200 and then start wrapping around like we already did before. 380 00:20:42,200 --> 00:20:44,320 And now at this point, 381 00:20:44,320 --> 00:20:47,080 instead of putting the knot through the loop, 382 00:20:47,080 --> 00:20:48,960 what we did with the Klemheist, 383 00:20:48,960 --> 00:20:52,120 you want to take both of these loops 384 00:20:52,120 --> 00:20:54,280 and clip it with the carabiner. 385 00:20:57,360 --> 00:21:01,560 So once you load it, it's gonna look a little bit funky, 386 00:21:01,560 --> 00:21:02,920 but it should grab. 387 00:21:02,920 --> 00:21:08,360 And autoblock is commonly used as a backup 388 00:21:08,360 --> 00:21:12,320 for your belay device in extended repel situation. 389 00:21:13,360 --> 00:21:18,200 So since it doesn't bite that much, 390 00:21:18,200 --> 00:21:21,400 it's still okay because you don't need that much force 391 00:21:21,400 --> 00:21:23,490 to hold the break side of the rope. 392 00:21:23,490 --> 00:21:27,880 However, the ability to release this knot under tension 393 00:21:27,880 --> 00:21:32,630 is what makes it a great option for repelling. 394 00:21:32,630 --> 00:21:35,380 So here's another demonstration, autoblock. 395 00:21:35,380 --> 00:21:37,750 Although being the weakest out of the three, 396 00:21:37,750 --> 00:21:39,951 it still can hold my weight. 397 00:21:39,951 --> 00:21:43,760 However, if I pull on it from top down, it will... ouch. 398 00:21:43,760 --> 00:21:45,880 Now, the great thing about these Prusiks 399 00:21:45,880 --> 00:21:49,450 that they can be made simply out of the accessory cord 400 00:21:49,450 --> 00:21:52,520 tied into the loop using double fisherman's knot. 401 00:21:52,520 --> 00:21:55,600 One thing you need to know is that your cord 402 00:21:55,600 --> 00:21:59,080 has to be at least three millimeters thinner 403 00:21:59,080 --> 00:22:02,190 than the rope you're gonna be using it on. 404 00:22:02,190 --> 00:22:04,990 And in general, the thinner the cord is, 405 00:22:04,990 --> 00:22:08,090 the stronger the Prusik is gonna grab. 406 00:22:08,090 --> 00:22:09,650 And for climbing applications, 407 00:22:09,650 --> 00:22:13,150 the good diameter is between five and six millimeters. 408 00:22:13,150 --> 00:22:16,410 Now, other things that affect how strongly 409 00:22:16,410 --> 00:22:19,520 the Prusik is gonna bite is the amount of loops 410 00:22:19,520 --> 00:22:20,480 you're gonna make. 411 00:22:20,480 --> 00:22:22,960 So with every Prusik, you can loop it 412 00:22:22,960 --> 00:22:24,960 as many times as it's needed. 413 00:22:24,960 --> 00:22:26,520 There is no hard rule. 414 00:22:26,520 --> 00:22:28,840 Usually you start around three, 415 00:22:28,840 --> 00:22:30,880 and then you have to test it to see 416 00:22:30,880 --> 00:22:33,810 if it's strong enough, but not too strong. 417 00:22:33,810 --> 00:22:36,800 So it's great idea to test on your own ropes, 418 00:22:36,800 --> 00:22:40,800 because it also depends on the stiffness of your cord 419 00:22:40,800 --> 00:22:45,280 and on your slippiness of your rope. 420 00:22:45,280 --> 00:22:49,200 And if your rope, for example, is wet or frozen, 421 00:22:49,200 --> 00:22:51,440 it's gonna be even slippier. 422 00:22:51,440 --> 00:22:54,640 So you might need more wraps. 423 00:22:56,680 --> 00:23:00,110 Also, you can tie Prusiks on two ropes. 424 00:23:00,110 --> 00:23:03,160 For example, when you're rappelling, the thing you need to know 425 00:23:03,160 --> 00:23:06,880 is that two ropes have more surface for the Prusik to bite, 426 00:23:06,880 --> 00:23:09,320 and usually the prasic will bite harder. 427 00:23:09,320 --> 00:23:11,640 So you might need less wraps. 428 00:23:11,640 --> 00:23:16,200 So very budget-friendly and super useful thing to have, 429 00:23:16,200 --> 00:23:19,180 but you can also buy already pre-made prasics. 430 00:23:19,180 --> 00:23:22,208 They are even better, because they are more friction resistant, 431 00:23:22,208 --> 00:23:24,730 they are softer, and it's easier to tie them. 432 00:23:24,730 --> 00:23:27,840 However, make sure to not buy too thick one. 433 00:23:27,840 --> 00:23:29,680 They're used for other applications. 434 00:23:29,680 --> 00:23:32,120 You need a thinner one for sport climbing. 435 00:23:32,120 --> 00:23:33,960 And in case you get stuck on the route 436 00:23:33,960 --> 00:23:37,240 and you want to escape, but you don't have a Prusik, 437 00:23:37,240 --> 00:23:39,960 well, maybe you have shoes with laces 438 00:23:39,960 --> 00:23:41,880 that you can make your Prusik out of. 439 00:23:41,880 --> 00:23:43,880 And here, I forgot to mention 440 00:23:43,880 --> 00:23:46,400 one very important thing about Prusiks, 441 00:23:46,400 --> 00:23:49,280 that you should not rely on them fully. 442 00:23:49,280 --> 00:23:52,840 You always have to have a very, very solid backup. 443 00:23:53,760 --> 00:23:57,040 All right, so of course, there are many other knots, 444 00:23:57,040 --> 00:23:58,960 but to keep your brain from melting, 445 00:23:58,960 --> 00:24:01,640 I'm going to keep them for the future episodes. 446 00:24:01,640 --> 00:24:05,000 And for now, I want to say special thank you for Mammut 447 00:24:05,000 --> 00:24:06,840 for sponsoring this video, 448 00:24:06,840 --> 00:24:09,560 since I put a lot of energy into these videos 449 00:24:09,560 --> 00:24:12,000 to make them as quality as possible. 450 00:24:12,000 --> 00:24:13,960 It's great to partner with the brand 451 00:24:13,960 --> 00:24:16,520 who also cares about quality a lot. 452 00:24:16,520 --> 00:24:18,000 So thank you, Mammut. 453 00:24:18,000 --> 00:24:21,680 And thank you, every single of you who are supporting me 454 00:24:21,680 --> 00:24:23,480 by visiting my website. 455 00:24:23,480 --> 00:24:25,560 That helps a ton. 456 00:24:25,560 --> 00:24:32,290 So I can make more of these videos. 457 00:24:32,320 --> 00:24:34,920 I'm so bad at these outros. 458 00:24:34,920 --> 00:24:55,920 I'm going to leave it like that.