WEBVTT 00:00:00.000 --> 00:00:04.600 All right, let's learn some knots, shall we? 00:00:04.600 --> 00:00:06.800 Now, if you are one of these people 00:00:06.800 --> 00:00:09.000 who cannot remember how to tie knots 00:00:09.000 --> 00:00:12.160 and when to use which knot, good news, I gotcha. 00:00:12.160 --> 00:00:15.520 In this video, I'm gonna show you the most essential knots 00:00:15.520 --> 00:00:18.440 that can get you out of any situation 00:00:18.440 --> 00:00:22.920 and techniques, how to tie them super fast 00:00:22.920 --> 00:00:26.320 and in a way that you will not forget how it's done. 00:00:26.320 --> 00:00:27.720 All right, let's begin. 00:00:27.720 --> 00:00:31.757 If I would ask you to tie the most simple knot you can on the rope, 00:00:31.757 --> 00:00:34.840 you would do something like this. 00:00:36.600 --> 00:00:40.600 And if you tighten this, you will get an overhand knot. 00:00:41.480 --> 00:00:45.040 Now, if you would do the same, what we just did, 00:00:46.280 --> 00:00:51.280 and wrap the tail once more, you get something like that. 00:00:52.320 --> 00:00:56.560 And if you tighten this and dress it well, 00:00:56.560 --> 00:00:59.120 you will get a double overhand knot, 00:00:59.120 --> 00:01:01.800 which is also known as a stopper knot. 00:01:01.800 --> 00:01:04.160 So this is the knot that should always live 00:01:04.160 --> 00:01:05.880 at the end of your rope. 00:01:05.880 --> 00:01:09.680 And it's obviously used to stop your rope 00:01:09.680 --> 00:01:12.840 from slipping through your belaying device 00:01:12.840 --> 00:01:16.280 and dropping your climber to death or yourself. 00:01:16.280 --> 00:01:18.520 All right, let's continue. 00:01:18.520 --> 00:01:23.520 Make a gun with your right hand and place the rope like so, 00:01:23.520 --> 00:01:27.480 where the gun is pointing towards the end of the rope. 00:01:27.480 --> 00:01:31.320 Now take the rope and wrap around your fingers like so 00:01:31.320 --> 00:01:33.840 and make an X here. 00:01:33.840 --> 00:01:43.750 Wrap the rope again and put the tail through the X like so. 00:01:46.240 --> 00:01:51.390 So now, if you look into this, you will notice NOTE Paragraph 00:01:51.390 --> 00:01:54.240 that on one side we have two parallel strands, 00:01:54.240 --> 00:01:56.440 while on other side we have an X 00:01:56.440 --> 00:01:58.680 and the rope is going through the X. 00:01:58.680 --> 00:02:02.800 If we tighten this, we get a double overhand again, 00:02:02.800 --> 00:02:04.440 or a stopper knot again. 00:02:04.440 --> 00:02:08.440 So in full speed, it looks something like this. 00:02:08.440 --> 00:02:11.200 And if you would want a triple overhand, 00:02:11.200 --> 00:02:15.440 you make an X and then you make one extra loop, 00:02:15.440 --> 00:02:17.800 like kind of like extra X, 00:02:17.800 --> 00:02:22.800 and put the tail through both of them, 00:02:23.480 --> 00:02:24.480 like so. 00:02:25.160 --> 00:02:27.840 So you would get the triple overhand knot. 00:02:28.840 --> 00:02:30.680 Okay, let's make a gun again. 00:02:30.680 --> 00:02:34.800 And previously we had the gun pointing towards the tail. 00:02:34.800 --> 00:02:36.440 This time we flip it around. 00:02:36.440 --> 00:02:39.560 The gun points away from the tail. 00:02:39.560 --> 00:02:42.000 And we will tie the same knot as before, 00:02:42.000 --> 00:02:45.440 where we go once, make an X, 00:02:45.440 --> 00:02:50.860 and now we make a bite and put this bite through the X, 00:02:52.960 --> 00:02:54.160 like so. 00:02:55.680 --> 00:03:00.480 If you tighten this, you should get exactly the same knot, 00:03:00.480 --> 00:03:03.160 which has two parallel strands on one side 00:03:03.160 --> 00:03:05.440 and an X on the other side. 00:03:05.440 --> 00:03:08.520 So this knot is a sliding knot. 00:03:08.520 --> 00:03:14.580 If I load it, it slides until it cannot slide anymore. 00:03:14.580 --> 00:03:16.221 So this is really great knot 00:03:16.221 --> 00:03:19.422 if you need a tight connection to some object. 00:03:19.422 --> 00:03:21.070 For example, in the rope axis, 00:03:21.070 --> 00:03:24.750 it's very commonly used to hook to the carabiners. 00:03:24.750 --> 00:03:27.360 It prevents the carabiner from flopping around 00:03:27.360 --> 00:03:28.530 or cross loading. 00:03:28.530 --> 00:03:31.883 Plus this knot is very, very small and compact. 00:03:31.883 --> 00:03:35.560 So this might be very useful in certain rigging situations 00:03:35.560 --> 00:03:38.350 where you need to get very close to your carabiner. 00:03:38.350 --> 00:03:41.150 Now, one really important aspect about this knot 00:03:41.150 --> 00:03:43.660 is that it's pretty much impossible 00:03:43.660 --> 00:03:45.347 to visually check it. 00:03:45.347 --> 00:03:47.780 That's why you have to do a function test, 00:03:47.780 --> 00:03:50.330 meaning take your load line and pull. 00:03:50.330 --> 00:03:55.337 The loop should get smaller and the knot will tighten. 00:03:55.337 --> 00:03:59.210 If you tied it incorrectly, as you pull on the load line, 00:03:59.210 --> 00:04:00.750 this is what happens. 00:04:00.750 --> 00:04:03.820 The tail will slip out. 00:04:03.820 --> 00:04:06.640 And this is called a death knot for a reason. 00:04:06.640 --> 00:04:10.160 And death knot basically happens when during the tying, 00:04:10.160 --> 00:04:13.320 if you point your gun towards the tail. 00:04:13.320 --> 00:04:15.160 So instead of that, as I showed you before, 00:04:15.160 --> 00:04:17.690 you point away from the tail 00:04:17.690 --> 00:04:21.760 and then you will get a knot which functions properly, 00:04:21.760 --> 00:04:24.410 but always, always function check. 00:04:24.410 --> 00:04:26.837 Now to tie this knot around an object, 00:04:26.837 --> 00:04:31.780 take the tail and then you start wrapping this tail around the rope, 00:04:31.780 --> 00:04:32.694 like so. 00:04:32.694 --> 00:04:34.210 So you go once 00:04:34.210 --> 00:04:39.080 and then when you go second time, you form an X here. 00:04:39.080 --> 00:04:44.200 And now you want to take the tail and pass through the X, 00:04:44.200 --> 00:04:45.870 as always. 00:04:45.870 --> 00:04:48.090 Tail goes through the X. 00:04:48.090 --> 00:04:51.123 And since this knot consumes very little rope, 00:04:51.123 --> 00:04:53.210 I like using it as a stopper knot 00:04:53.210 --> 00:04:55.800 tied to my red end of my rope bag. 00:04:56.360 --> 00:04:59.320 So a great little knot, 00:04:59.320 --> 00:05:01.546 but the biggest disadvantage of it 00:05:01.546 --> 00:05:04.800 is if you load it really hard, 00:05:04.800 --> 00:05:08.900 you will have really hard time untying it. 00:05:08.900 --> 00:05:11.440 In this case, when you have a carabiner, it's okay, 00:05:11.440 --> 00:05:13.240 because you can unclip from carabiner 00:05:13.240 --> 00:05:15.560 and then it's much easier to untie. 00:05:15.560 --> 00:05:18.600 However, if you would tie onto some object, 00:05:19.480 --> 00:05:21.840 then it's another story. 00:05:21.840 --> 00:05:25.120 All right, let's make another stopper knot, 00:05:25.120 --> 00:05:27.800 but this time don't make it tight. 00:05:27.800 --> 00:05:29.720 Leave a little hole here 00:05:29.720 --> 00:05:31.950 so you can stick your finger through. 00:05:31.950 --> 00:05:34.160 However, instead of sticking my finger through, 00:05:34.160 --> 00:05:36.440 I'm gonna stick another rope through. 00:05:36.440 --> 00:05:39.960 Now I'm gonna tighten the orange knot a little bit. 00:05:39.960 --> 00:05:41.560 And now here is the trick. 00:05:41.560 --> 00:05:45.840 Notice the last strand on the orange knot on the right side. 00:05:45.840 --> 00:05:49.259 So it's this one, and it kind of goes that way. 00:05:49.259 --> 00:05:53.120 So the trick is to start tying the green knot 00:05:53.120 --> 00:05:54.320 the same direction. 00:05:54.320 --> 00:05:57.280 If I go the other direction, it's not gonna be good. 00:05:57.280 --> 00:05:59.520 So I go the same direction, 00:05:59.520 --> 00:06:05.000 I cross over itself, which forms an X as always. 00:06:05.000 --> 00:06:09.400 And then I put the tail under the X as always. 00:06:09.400 --> 00:06:14.680 So if I tighten the green knot, I tighten the orange knot. 00:06:14.680 --> 00:06:18.360 And now if I pull them together, they come together 00:06:19.280 --> 00:06:22.520 and form a knot, which looks like this, 00:06:22.520 --> 00:06:25.480 where I have four parallel strands on one side. 00:06:25.480 --> 00:06:29.160 And if I flip it over, I have two Xs. 00:06:29.160 --> 00:06:30.880 One, two. 00:06:30.880 --> 00:06:34.200 So this knot is called double fisherman's knot. 00:06:34.200 --> 00:06:36.520 And it's because fishers use this knot 00:06:36.520 --> 00:06:38.760 to join their fishing lines. 00:06:38.760 --> 00:06:40.000 However, in fishing lines, 00:06:40.000 --> 00:06:42.120 since they're very skinny and slippery, 00:06:42.120 --> 00:06:45.540 they often use triple or quadruple version of this knot. 00:06:45.540 --> 00:06:46.600 While in the climbing, 00:06:46.600 --> 00:06:49.560 it's obviously a great knot to join two ropes. 00:06:49.560 --> 00:06:51.200 It's really secure. 00:06:51.200 --> 00:06:54.120 You can use different diameters of the ropes. 00:06:54.120 --> 00:06:56.560 However, one disadvantage of this knot 00:06:56.560 --> 00:06:59.600 is that same as with scaffold before, 00:06:59.600 --> 00:07:02.280 if you load it really heavy, 00:07:02.280 --> 00:07:04.680 it's gonna be hard to untie. 00:07:04.680 --> 00:07:07.880 And of course, there are other knots for joining two ropes 00:07:07.880 --> 00:07:11.000 that are even better in certain situations. 00:07:11.000 --> 00:07:13.360 I will cover them in future episodes. 00:07:13.360 --> 00:07:15.760 But for the basics, double fisherman's 00:07:15.760 --> 00:07:17.680 is what everybody should know. 00:07:17.680 --> 00:07:21.480 Okay, next is the king of the knots, a figure of eight. 00:07:21.480 --> 00:07:25.040 And there are two versions of this knot. 00:07:25.040 --> 00:07:27.920 And if that's something new for you, 00:07:27.920 --> 00:07:31.080 I've already made a video showing you my ninja method, 00:07:31.080 --> 00:07:35.880 how to tie this knot and in a way that's easier to untie. 00:07:35.880 --> 00:07:39.320 Now, if you know how to tie figure of eight 00:07:39.320 --> 00:07:41.240 into your harness, 00:07:41.240 --> 00:07:45.520 you also know how to tie it into some other object. 00:07:45.520 --> 00:07:49.388 So you follow the same procedure of follow through. 00:07:53.060 --> 00:07:55.490 So in case you don't want to use a carabiner here, 00:07:55.490 --> 00:07:57.440 this is a great option. 00:07:57.440 --> 00:07:59.940 So the method where you tie into your harness 00:07:59.940 --> 00:08:02.241 or you tie around some object 00:08:02.241 --> 00:08:04.669 is called the figure of eight follow through. 00:08:04.669 --> 00:08:07.910 However, there is another way to tie a figure of eight 00:08:07.910 --> 00:08:10.701 when you want to do this in the middle of the rope. 00:08:10.701 --> 00:08:15.287 And as you can see, this method is really fast. 00:08:17.600 --> 00:08:21.509 Okay, so this method is actually easier to show than to explain, 00:08:21.509 --> 00:08:23.720 but I will try to do my best. 00:08:23.720 --> 00:08:25.210 So I have a loop here 00:08:25.210 --> 00:08:29.240 with the tail at the bottom of my palm. 00:08:29.240 --> 00:08:32.840 It's not here, it's here, like so. 00:08:32.840 --> 00:08:36.380 And now I will have to whip this tail. 00:08:36.380 --> 00:08:39.530 And this is how it looks, you whip like so. 00:08:49.700 --> 00:08:52.260 Now, at this point, notice the hole 00:08:52.260 --> 00:08:54.870 where this thumb is poking through 00:08:54.870 --> 00:08:59.230 and use the left hand to take this tail 00:08:59.230 --> 00:09:03.580 under and through that hole where the thumb is poking through. 00:09:03.580 --> 00:09:06.761 And I use my index finger of the right hand 00:09:06.761 --> 00:09:09.200 to come and help to pull it through. 00:09:09.200 --> 00:09:10.910 Pull it through. 00:09:10.910 --> 00:09:14.950 And at this point, this strand, which goes to the tail, 00:09:14.950 --> 00:09:17.000 sometimes wants to be on this side, 00:09:17.000 --> 00:09:21.550 but actually it needs to be on the other side. 00:09:21.550 --> 00:09:23.970 Now, if you tighten everything, 00:09:26.390 --> 00:09:32.090 so the tail strand needs to come kind of on top. 00:09:32.090 --> 00:09:34.480 If this is bottom, it needs to come on top. 00:09:34.480 --> 00:09:37.800 If that's the case, you will get a perfect figure of eight, 00:09:37.800 --> 00:09:40.160 which is also gonna be easy to untie 00:09:40.160 --> 00:09:45.500 because the load line, this line, goes in the middle. 00:09:50.190 --> 00:09:54.340 So real life speed looks something like this 00:09:54.340 --> 00:10:00.100 where I just need to fix this strand sometimes a little bit. 00:10:00.100 --> 00:10:02.250 So this way of tying figure of eight 00:10:02.250 --> 00:10:04.920 is called figure of eight on a bite. 00:10:04.920 --> 00:10:08.650 So basically you need the secure attachment point on the rope - 00:10:08.650 --> 00:10:10.924 figure of eight. 00:10:10.924 --> 00:10:12.700 Now, when it comes to safety, 00:10:12.700 --> 00:10:16.080 you don't need any stopper knots for figure of eight, 00:10:16.080 --> 00:10:19.790 but this tail should be at least 10 centimeters long. 00:10:19.790 --> 00:10:23.110 So basically one fist or longer. 00:10:23.110 --> 00:10:25.590 In my case, I have two and a half fists, 00:10:25.590 --> 00:10:27.060 so it's more than enough. 00:10:27.060 --> 00:10:28.900 And if you would have a thinner rope, 00:10:28.900 --> 00:10:32.370 you can obviously proportionally have this tail shorter. 00:10:32.370 --> 00:10:35.265 All right, now let's learn about hitches. 00:10:35.265 --> 00:10:37.480 Now, if you're wondering what's the difference 00:10:37.480 --> 00:10:40.300 between a hitch and a knot, 00:10:40.300 --> 00:10:43.500 a knot can hold its own shape 00:10:43.500 --> 00:10:47.560 without any external objects needed, like figure of eight, 00:10:47.560 --> 00:10:50.400 while a hitch cannot. 00:10:50.400 --> 00:10:53.320 So this is holding me, 00:10:53.320 --> 00:10:58.320 but if I remove this external object from the hitch, 00:10:58.320 --> 00:11:00.110 the hitch will fall apart. 00:11:00.110 --> 00:11:02.650 Okay, let's start with the clothes hitch. 00:11:02.650 --> 00:11:05.640 Take the rope with the right hand, like so. 00:11:05.640 --> 00:11:09.080 Now the left hand crosses under the right hand 00:11:09.080 --> 00:11:11.320 and takes the rope like so. 00:11:11.320 --> 00:11:14.640 Notice that the thumbs are pointing away from each other, 00:11:14.640 --> 00:11:18.920 and I have a little bit of rope slack between the hands. 00:11:18.920 --> 00:11:22.520 Now at this point, uncross your arms, 00:11:22.520 --> 00:11:25.160 and you will get something like this. 00:11:25.160 --> 00:11:30.240 Now the right loop goes in front of the left one, like so. 00:11:33.240 --> 00:11:37.000 So once again, I cross my arms, I uncross them, 00:11:37.000 --> 00:11:41.280 and then the right loop slides on top of the left one, 00:11:41.280 --> 00:11:45.200 and then you clip this to your carabiner or any other object. 00:11:46.320 --> 00:11:52.160 Like so. And then you can pull on the ends to tighten it. 00:11:52.160 --> 00:11:54.410 Now what's great about this hitch 00:11:54.410 --> 00:11:57.720 is that you can pull on either side of the rope, 00:11:57.720 --> 00:12:01.600 and it's gonna hold, and if you want to adjust, 00:12:01.600 --> 00:12:06.040 you loosen the belly in the middle of the knot, like so. 00:12:06.040 --> 00:12:09.840 Let's say I want to stay at this length, 00:12:09.840 --> 00:12:13.020 so I'm gonna pull the other end now, like so. 00:12:15.840 --> 00:12:17.440 And I'm secure. 00:12:17.440 --> 00:12:20.920 So this cross and uncross technique works really well 00:12:20.920 --> 00:12:23.050 when you have two hands, 00:12:23.050 --> 00:12:26.150 and if you don't have two hands available, 00:12:26.150 --> 00:12:27.750 this is what you do. 00:12:27.750 --> 00:12:31.420 You clip the carabiner as always, normally. 00:12:31.420 --> 00:12:33.680 Now since the gate is pointing to the right, 00:12:33.680 --> 00:12:35.400 I'm gonna use my right hand, 00:12:35.400 --> 00:12:37.240 and I'm gonna flip it upside down 00:12:37.240 --> 00:12:40.904 with the thumb pointing down, and take the other rope, 00:12:40.904 --> 00:12:42.750 which is behind the carabiner. 00:12:42.750 --> 00:12:46.180 At this point, I'm gonna untwist my hand 00:12:46.180 --> 00:12:47.580 and clip it to the gate. 00:12:50.380 --> 00:12:52.380 And screw the carabiner. 00:12:54.212 --> 00:12:56.260 Now when the gate is pointing left, 00:12:56.260 --> 00:12:58.730 you need to use your left hand, so the same, 00:12:58.730 --> 00:13:01.570 flip it upside down with the thumb pointing down, 00:13:01.570 --> 00:13:05.270 grab the rope, untwist your hand, 00:13:05.270 --> 00:13:06.870 and clip it to the gate. 00:13:08.790 --> 00:13:11.401 And clothes hitch is another great knot 00:13:11.401 --> 00:13:14.700 if you like playing with sticks. 00:13:14.700 --> 00:13:16.820 It holds really well. 00:13:17.910 --> 00:13:22.480 I guess this will get a lot of comments, right? 00:13:22.480 --> 00:13:25.000 A great visual check if you did it correctly. 00:13:25.000 --> 00:13:27.270 Both strands that exit the hitch 00:13:27.270 --> 00:13:31.230 need to exit from the middle of the knot. 00:13:31.230 --> 00:13:35.460 So they are both kinda squeezed inside, 00:13:35.460 --> 00:13:38.400 and they're exiting on the opposite sides. 00:13:38.400 --> 00:13:40.240 There is a rope between them. 00:13:40.240 --> 00:13:44.650 Okay, next hitch starts exactly the same as before. 00:13:44.650 --> 00:13:48.330 But at this point, instead of sliding the right loop 00:13:48.330 --> 00:13:51.490 over the left one, imagine that you have a book 00:13:51.490 --> 00:13:54.561 in front of you, and these loops are kind of like 00:13:54.561 --> 00:13:59.060 pages of the book, and you want to close the book. 00:13:59.060 --> 00:14:01.030 Like so. 00:14:01.030 --> 00:14:02.386 So here is another angle. 00:14:02.386 --> 00:14:07.210 I cross my arms, I uncross, and then I close the book. 00:14:07.210 --> 00:14:11.261 Now what I'm doing here, I'm twisting this like so 00:14:11.261 --> 00:14:14.070 before I'm clipping to the carabiner. 00:14:14.070 --> 00:14:16.770 And the reason for this twist that I did 00:14:16.770 --> 00:14:20.321 is to keep the break side of the rope, 00:14:20.321 --> 00:14:22.230 this one, away from the gate. 00:14:22.230 --> 00:14:24.200 So with this rope, when it's running, 00:14:24.200 --> 00:14:27.230 it's not running over the gate. 00:14:27.230 --> 00:14:29.530 So when I load, the knot will flip. 00:14:29.530 --> 00:14:31.090 This is totally normal. 00:14:31.090 --> 00:14:34.760 And then I can go down like so. 00:14:35.690 --> 00:14:37.940 And as you might have guessed, 00:14:37.940 --> 00:14:40.920 this is the knot or the hitch that you would use 00:14:40.920 --> 00:14:43.120 in case you would drop your belaying device. 00:14:43.120 --> 00:14:44.640 And now you need to go down. 00:14:44.640 --> 00:14:49.160 So take a bit of slack, like so. 00:14:49.970 --> 00:14:52.280 Now, one thing to know about this hitch 00:14:52.280 --> 00:14:55.000 is that the most breaking strength it has 00:14:55.000 --> 00:14:58.990 when these strands are parallel to each other. 00:14:58.990 --> 00:15:03.360 It's not down here like on normal belaying devices. 00:15:03.360 --> 00:15:08.360 It's actually up in the case of a rappel. Like so. 00:15:08.360 --> 00:15:12.800 So, like so, and then you can lower yourself down. 00:15:13.590 --> 00:15:16.420 So hopefully you will never need to use this, 00:15:16.420 --> 00:15:19.720 but in case you do, close your book or pray. 00:15:19.720 --> 00:15:22.020 That's also a good way to remember. 00:15:22.020 --> 00:15:25.520 You can also belay a climber using this. 00:15:25.520 --> 00:15:27.640 One thing to know about that is that 00:15:27.640 --> 00:15:31.120 when you're switching between giving slack and taking slack, 00:15:31.120 --> 00:15:33.400 the knot will flip upside down. 00:15:33.400 --> 00:15:34.960 This is totally normal. 00:15:35.800 --> 00:15:38.720 So it keeps flipping every time you switch 00:15:38.720 --> 00:15:40.520 taking slack to giving slack. 00:15:41.900 --> 00:15:43.520 That's how it should be. 00:15:43.520 --> 00:15:46.000 Another very critical thing to know 00:15:46.000 --> 00:15:49.880 is that it will twist your rope like crazy. 00:15:49.880 --> 00:15:52.320 So this is not the best knot 00:15:52.320 --> 00:15:55.400 if you want to rappel a lot, a lot, a lot. 00:15:55.400 --> 00:15:58.280 You will have a lot, a lot, a lot of tangles in your rope. 00:15:58.280 --> 00:16:01.480 So in case of emergency, once again, 00:16:01.480 --> 00:16:04.840 cross your arms, uncross, and then pray. 00:16:07.480 --> 00:16:11.480 And before you go down, don't forget to test it 00:16:11.480 --> 00:16:14.400 before you unclip any other protection. 00:16:16.240 --> 00:16:19.040 All right, moving on to friction hitches. 00:16:19.040 --> 00:16:22.760 These are special hitches that can slide on the rope, 00:16:22.760 --> 00:16:25.720 but when you load it, it bites. 00:16:25.720 --> 00:16:29.280 And this is super useful in wide variety applications 00:16:29.280 --> 00:16:31.800 from backuping your belaying device 00:16:31.800 --> 00:16:35.120 to rigging something where you need to tension the rope more 00:16:35.120 --> 00:16:38.360 or rescuing somebody or yourself. 00:16:38.360 --> 00:16:41.460 And I'm gonna show you three most common hitches, 00:16:41.460 --> 00:16:43.520 but don't worry, they're kind of similar. 00:16:43.520 --> 00:16:45.480 So I'm gonna explain the differences 00:16:45.480 --> 00:16:48.240 so you can understand in which application 00:16:48.240 --> 00:16:49.720 which one is better. 00:16:49.720 --> 00:16:52.440 All right, let's start with the Prusik. 00:16:52.440 --> 00:16:54.480 The first thing I do when I tie Prusik 00:16:54.480 --> 00:16:58.270 is move my loop to the side a little bit. 00:16:58.270 --> 00:17:03.320 Then I pass the knot through itself, like so, 00:17:04.120 --> 00:17:06.280 and make it tight again. 00:17:06.280 --> 00:17:10.280 Then I pass the knot one more time, like so. 00:17:10.280 --> 00:17:14.320 Notice that I'm keeping these coils coiling inwards 00:17:14.320 --> 00:17:16.480 towards each other, like here. 00:17:16.480 --> 00:17:20.680 And then I pass a third time, like so. 00:17:20.680 --> 00:17:25.823 Now, at this point, I want to pull on one of these strands 00:17:25.823 --> 00:17:27.190 to offset the knot. 00:17:27.190 --> 00:17:29.990 So I'm gonna pull on this strand 00:17:29.990 --> 00:17:34.070 while maintaining the knot neat. 00:17:39.210 --> 00:17:42.520 So that's the end result. 00:17:42.520 --> 00:17:44.490 Now, to double-check the Prusik, 00:17:44.490 --> 00:17:48.000 you can kind of see a big smiley with the tongue, 00:17:48.000 --> 00:17:50.919 and all the coils are nice and parallel to each other. 00:17:50.919 --> 00:17:53.210 There is nothing overlapping here. 00:17:53.210 --> 00:17:57.300 And you can clip it to yourself, like so, 00:17:58.660 --> 00:18:01.270 and it should hold you. 00:18:01.270 --> 00:18:05.840 Now, Prusiks are not releasable under tension, 00:18:06.280 --> 00:18:10.280 and when you load it hard, it might be hard to release. 00:18:10.280 --> 00:18:11.690 And to help to release, 00:18:11.690 --> 00:18:14.950 you kind of want to open that mouth that I was talking, 00:18:14.950 --> 00:18:18.270 and that helps to loosen up the prusik. 00:18:18.270 --> 00:18:22.760 So Prusiks are very strong, and they work in both directions. 00:18:22.760 --> 00:18:25.210 So if you're not planning to move it much 00:18:25.210 --> 00:18:28.300 in certain rigging situations, this is great. 00:18:28.300 --> 00:18:31.460 All right, next one is a Klemheist. 00:18:31.460 --> 00:18:35.340 For this one, I like to offset the knot from the beginning, 00:18:35.340 --> 00:18:38.650 and then take the other end behind the rope, 00:18:38.650 --> 00:18:41.950 And I measure one finger here, 00:18:41.950 --> 00:18:46.990 and then you start rolling around or wrapping around 00:18:46.990 --> 00:18:48.430 or coiling around. 00:18:48.430 --> 00:18:51.820 This is much easier than original Prusik. 00:18:51.820 --> 00:18:54.320 And at this point, you take the knot, 00:18:54.320 --> 00:18:59.500 pass through the upper loop, like so, and pull it down. 00:19:03.240 --> 00:19:08.000 So again, it's important to make it very nice and tidy, 00:19:08.000 --> 00:19:10.760 and also to make sure that this loop 00:19:10.760 --> 00:19:13.080 that you just passed your rope through 00:19:13.080 --> 00:19:16.920 is not longer than entire length of the knot. 00:19:16.920 --> 00:19:19.000 Of course, when you're gonna load it, 00:19:19.000 --> 00:19:21.680 it's gonna stretch, and that's okay. 00:19:21.680 --> 00:19:26.480 But if you make it too long, you will have way less friction. 00:19:26.480 --> 00:19:28.520 All right, the Klemheist. 00:19:29.760 --> 00:19:33.000 Same as the Prusik, it's very strong 00:19:33.000 --> 00:19:35.920 and not releasable under tension. 00:19:35.920 --> 00:19:38.520 However, unlike the Prasic, 00:19:38.520 --> 00:19:43.690 well-tight Klemheist should be easier to release. 00:19:43.690 --> 00:19:47.110 And similar to Prusik, when you want to release it, 00:19:47.110 --> 00:19:52.980 you want to open this lip that you passed your tail through. 00:19:52.980 --> 00:19:55.120 That helps to loosen it up. 00:19:55.120 --> 00:19:59.800 Now, unlike Prusiks, Klemheist is single directional. 00:19:59.800 --> 00:20:04.440 So it works best if you pull it downwards, in my case. 00:20:04.440 --> 00:20:07.160 It kind of works if you pull up as well, 00:20:07.160 --> 00:20:08.640 but it's not designed for that, 00:20:08.640 --> 00:20:10.516 and it's gonna be much weaker. 00:20:10.516 --> 00:20:13.040 So due to the fact that it's a little bit easier 00:20:13.040 --> 00:20:17.240 to release sometimes, and it's holding very strong, 00:20:17.240 --> 00:20:21.000 a lot of climbers prefer this knot over the Prusik 00:20:21.000 --> 00:20:22.830 when you need to ascend the rope. 00:20:22.830 --> 00:20:25.720 So you can move it easier up and then load it, 00:20:25.720 --> 00:20:27.720 move it up and then load it. 00:20:27.720 --> 00:20:30.840 All right, and the last one is an autoblock. 00:20:30.840 --> 00:20:33.000 It starts similar to the Klemheist. 00:20:33.000 --> 00:20:36.400 I like to offset this knot a little bit, 00:20:36.400 --> 00:20:42.200 and then start wrapping around like we already did before. 00:20:42.200 --> 00:20:44.320 And now at this point, 00:20:44.320 --> 00:20:47.080 instead of putting the knot through the loop, 00:20:47.080 --> 00:20:48.960 what we did with the Klemheist, 00:20:48.960 --> 00:20:52.120 you want to take both of these loops 00:20:52.120 --> 00:20:54.280 and clip it with the carabiner. 00:20:57.360 --> 00:21:01.560 So once you load it, it's gonna look a little bit funky, 00:21:01.560 --> 00:21:02.920 but it should grab. 00:21:02.920 --> 00:21:08.360 And autoblock is commonly used as a backup 00:21:08.360 --> 00:21:12.320 for your belay device in extended repel situation. 00:21:13.360 --> 00:21:18.200 So since it doesn't bite that much, 00:21:18.200 --> 00:21:21.400 it's still okay because you don't need that much force 00:21:21.400 --> 00:21:23.490 to hold the break side of the rope. 00:21:23.490 --> 00:21:27.880 However, the ability to release this knot under tension 00:21:27.880 --> 00:21:32.630 is what makes it a great option for repelling. 00:21:32.630 --> 00:21:35.380 So here's another demonstration, autoblock. 00:21:35.380 --> 00:21:37.750 Although being the weakest out of the three, 00:21:37.750 --> 00:21:39.951 it still can hold my weight. 00:21:39.951 --> 00:21:43.760 However, if I pull on it from top down, it will... ouch. 00:21:43.760 --> 00:21:45.880 Now, the great thing about these Prusiks 00:21:45.880 --> 00:21:49.450 that they can be made simply out of the accessory cord 00:21:49.450 --> 00:21:52.520 tied into the loop using double fisherman's knot. 00:21:52.520 --> 00:21:55.600 One thing you need to know is that your cord 00:21:55.600 --> 00:21:59.080 has to be at least three millimeters thinner 00:21:59.080 --> 00:22:02.190 than the rope you're gonna be using it on. 00:22:02.190 --> 00:22:04.990 And in general, the thinner the cord is, 00:22:04.990 --> 00:22:08.090 the stronger the Prusik is gonna grab. 00:22:08.090 --> 00:22:09.650 And for climbing applications, 00:22:09.650 --> 00:22:13.150 the good diameter is between five and six millimeters. 00:22:13.150 --> 00:22:16.410 Now, other things that affect how strongly 00:22:16.410 --> 00:22:19.520 the Prusik is gonna bite is the amount of loops 00:22:19.520 --> 00:22:20.480 you're gonna make. 00:22:20.480 --> 00:22:22.960 So with every Prusik, you can loop it 00:22:22.960 --> 00:22:24.960 as many times as it's needed. 00:22:24.960 --> 00:22:26.520 There is no hard rule. 00:22:26.520 --> 00:22:28.840 Usually you start around three, 00:22:28.840 --> 00:22:30.880 and then you have to test it to see 00:22:30.880 --> 00:22:33.810 if it's strong enough, but not too strong. 00:22:33.810 --> 00:22:36.800 So it's great idea to test on your own ropes, 00:22:36.800 --> 00:22:40.800 because it also depends on the stiffness of your cord 00:22:40.800 --> 00:22:45.280 and on your slippiness of your rope. 00:22:45.280 --> 00:22:49.200 And if your rope, for example, is wet or frozen, 00:22:49.200 --> 00:22:51.440 it's gonna be even slippier. 00:22:51.440 --> 00:22:54.640 So you might need more wraps. 00:22:56.680 --> 00:23:00.110 Also, you can tie Prusiks on two ropes. 00:23:00.110 --> 00:23:03.160 For example, when you're rappelling, the thing you need to know 00:23:03.160 --> 00:23:06.880 is that two ropes have more surface for the Prusik to bite, 00:23:06.880 --> 00:23:09.320 and usually the prasic will bite harder. 00:23:09.320 --> 00:23:11.640 So you might need less wraps. 00:23:11.640 --> 00:23:16.200 So very budget-friendly and super useful thing to have, 00:23:16.200 --> 00:23:19.180 but you can also buy already pre-made prasics. 00:23:19.180 --> 00:23:22.208 They are even better, because they are more friction resistant, 00:23:22.208 --> 00:23:24.730 they are softer, and it's easier to tie them. 00:23:24.730 --> 00:23:27.840 However, make sure to not buy too thick one. 00:23:27.840 --> 00:23:29.680 They're used for other applications. 00:23:29.680 --> 00:23:32.120 You need a thinner one for sport climbing. 00:23:32.120 --> 00:23:33.960 And in case you get stuck on the route 00:23:33.960 --> 00:23:37.240 and you want to escape, but you don't have a Prusik, 00:23:37.240 --> 00:23:39.960 well, maybe you have shoes with laces 00:23:39.960 --> 00:23:41.880 that you can make your Prusik out of. 00:23:41.880 --> 00:23:43.880 And here, I forgot to mention 00:23:43.880 --> 00:23:46.400 one very important thing about Prusiks, 00:23:46.400 --> 00:23:49.280 that you should not rely on them fully. 00:23:49.280 --> 00:23:52.840 You always have to have a very, very solid backup. 00:23:53.760 --> 00:23:57.040 All right, so of course, there are many other knots, 00:23:57.040 --> 00:23:58.960 but to keep your brain from melting, 00:23:58.960 --> 00:24:01.640 I'm going to keep them for the future episodes. 00:24:01.640 --> 00:24:05.000 And for now, I want to say special thank you for Mammut 00:24:05.000 --> 00:24:06.840 for sponsoring this video, 00:24:06.840 --> 00:24:09.560 since I put a lot of energy into these videos 00:24:09.560 --> 00:24:12.000 to make them as quality as possible. 00:24:12.000 --> 00:24:13.960 It's great to partner with the brand 00:24:13.960 --> 00:24:16.520 who also cares about quality a lot. 00:24:16.520 --> 00:24:18.000 So thank you, Mammut. 00:24:18.000 --> 00:24:21.680 And thank you, every single of you who are supporting me 00:24:21.680 --> 00:24:23.480 by visiting my website. 00:24:23.480 --> 00:24:25.560 That helps a ton. 00:24:25.560 --> 00:24:32.290 So I can make more of these videos. 00:24:32.320 --> 00:24:34.920 I'm so bad at these outros. 00:24:34.920 --> 00:24:55.920 I'm going to leave it like that.