0:00:00.240,0:00:04.040
so it looks like Griggree works like

0:00:04.040,0:00:08.320
Gri like Gri So let's do some of those

0:00:08.320,0:00:11.120
strange experiments and figure out if it

0:00:11.120,0:00:14.240
is a Grigree And to make things complete

0:00:14.240,0:00:16.560
I will also include Neox into the mix

0:00:16.560,0:00:18.960
also known as Gri And in case you want a

0:00:18.960,0:00:21.520
TLDDR version when it comes to cam

0:00:21.520,0:00:23.920
assisted devices Pinch is probably the

0:00:23.920,0:00:26.000
best alternative to Gri right now And if

0:00:26.000,0:00:27.599
you want to know if it is better than

0:00:27.599,0:00:30.560
Gri then the answer is not that simple

0:00:30.560,0:00:34.079
So let's see All right So the only truly

0:00:34.079,0:00:36.239
unique feature of this device is that

0:00:36.239,0:00:38.160
you can attach it directly to the

0:00:38.160,0:00:40.239
harness without the need of extra

0:00:40.239,0:00:42.640
carabiner which I thought it's a super

0:00:42.640,0:00:45.200
cool idea However what everybody

0:00:45.200,0:00:47.680
instantly notices that this button which

0:00:47.680,0:00:50.719
releases the device is not multi-action

0:00:50.719,0:00:53.360
So it's pretty easy to press on it and

0:00:53.360,0:00:56.079
remove the device So the question is can

0:00:56.079,0:00:59.359
that happen during the blaying and Edid

0:00:59.359,0:01:02.239
got bombarded by this question Oh yeah I

0:01:02.239,0:01:04.479
don't know how often I saw this and

0:01:04.479,0:01:06.960
honestly I was quite surprised that this

0:01:06.960,0:01:09.439
is the first thing people think of and

0:01:09.439,0:01:11.920
also with what passive aggressive

0:01:11.920,0:01:14.560
criticism this gets So yeah if you worry

0:01:14.560,0:01:17.400
about safety you are passive

0:01:17.400,0:01:20.000
aggressive But since my name got there

0:01:20.000,0:01:23.119
somehow I feel I have a duty now So to

0:01:23.119,0:01:25.759
investigate this let's divide it into

0:01:25.759,0:01:28.400
four possible states First when the

0:01:28.400,0:01:30.880
device is loaded then the device is

0:01:30.880,0:01:33.200
unloaded and the transition between

0:01:33.200,0:01:35.200
these two states So let's begin with

0:01:35.200,0:01:37.439
unloaded scenario And let's see what

0:01:37.439,0:01:40.159
Ederlid has to say about that Could I

0:01:40.159,0:01:42.159
accidentally open the device in an

0:01:42.159,0:01:44.079
unloaded scenario and the answer to this

0:01:44.079,0:01:47.119
is no It is simply impossible when you

0:01:47.119,0:01:49.520
are attentive and you operate the device

0:01:49.520,0:01:51.840
as shown in the user's manual So

0:01:51.840,0:01:54.720
understood Read the friendly manual and

0:01:54.720,0:01:58.159
then it's safe But um yeah before Phil

0:01:58.159,0:02:00.479
starts hating me let's look into this

0:02:00.479,0:02:02.960
deeper So there is actually only one

0:02:02.960,0:02:05.439
spot where I can press the button It's

0:02:05.439,0:02:07.920
right here If I start pressing somewhere

0:02:07.920,0:02:10.720
else nothing happens And this button is

0:02:10.720,0:02:13.280
nicely flush with the plastic round So

0:02:13.280,0:02:16.640
pressing from the sides nothing happens

0:02:16.640,0:02:19.280
Plus the button has pretty stiff spring

0:02:19.280,0:02:22.319
You need to press it quite hard to open

0:02:22.319,0:02:24.800
If the device is unloaded and I would

0:02:24.800,0:02:27.120
try to press the button I'm simply going

0:02:27.120,0:02:29.680
to push the device to the side and

0:02:29.680,0:02:32.160
nothing is going to happen Even if I try

0:02:32.160,0:02:39.360
to poke it really hard Ow ow ow ow ow So

0:02:39.360,0:02:42.239
the only way I can imagine pressing that

0:02:42.239,0:02:45.280
button in unloaded scenario is if I

0:02:45.280,0:02:47.440
would I don't know get knocked by the

0:02:47.440,0:02:50.400
rock fall on the ground and somehow

0:02:50.400,0:02:52.319
press on that button and release the

0:02:52.319,0:02:56.599
device How likely for that is to

0:02:56.599,0:02:59.519
happen probably not very okay Next

0:02:59.519,0:03:02.640
scenario The device is loaded Well I'm

0:03:02.640,0:03:05.879
trying to load it now I can press the

0:03:05.879,0:03:11.519
button Okay But I cannot open the

0:03:12.599,0:03:14.120
device

0:03:14.120,0:03:17.840
Well apparently I

0:03:18.760,0:03:22.239
can That was not planned That was first

0:03:22.239,0:03:26.319
attempt Ah okay See what happens And I

0:03:26.319,0:03:28.879
was pulling down on the brake strand

0:03:28.879,0:03:32.400
really hard and then it got loaded But

0:03:32.400,0:03:36.640
it got loaded in this downwards facing

0:03:36.640,0:03:40.080
direction and then somehow by pushing on

0:03:40.080,0:03:43.040
the button I managed to slip the sling a

0:03:43.040,0:03:46.799
little bit and now I can open it

0:03:46.799,0:03:50.239
Normally if the load is really high

0:03:50.239,0:03:52.560
probably I would not be able to pull the

0:03:52.560,0:03:55.120
device down as much and then in this

0:03:55.120,0:03:57.519
scenario if I press the button and I

0:03:57.519,0:04:00.799
would try to open it it would not open

0:04:00.799,0:04:03.040
because there is this little extra lip

0:04:03.040,0:04:05.760
which is hooking on the blay loop So

0:04:05.760,0:04:07.680
here is actually a good moment to talk

0:04:07.680,0:04:10.640
that there is a limit on blay loop width

0:04:10.640,0:04:13.040
If it's too wide it's not good cuz

0:04:13.040,0:04:15.360
device will sit sideways But if it's

0:04:15.360,0:04:17.519
very skinny like the one that I have

0:04:17.519,0:04:20.239
right now then it's more likely that the

0:04:20.239,0:04:22.600
loop could sit in some strange

0:04:22.600,0:04:25.280
orientation So I would be more cautious

0:04:25.280,0:04:27.440
with super skinny harnesses like this

0:04:27.440,0:04:31.360
one Now what if the device is loaded I

0:04:31.360,0:04:33.759
press the button and in that moment

0:04:33.759,0:04:37.280
somehow it would unload Could it uncip

0:04:37.280,0:04:40.600
at this moment

0:04:40.600,0:04:44.320
well I wouldn't say no but at the same

0:04:44.320,0:04:47.680
time it's very very unlikely So yeah

0:04:47.680,0:04:49.759
personally with this super skinny ble

0:04:49.759,0:04:52.080
loop I was using this device with a

0:04:52.080,0:04:54.479
backup carabiner maybe a thicker blay

0:04:54.479,0:04:57.520
loops my monkey brain would be happier

0:04:57.520,0:05:00.240
However I'm certain that if this button

0:05:00.240,0:05:02.320
would be double action then I would be

0:05:02.320,0:05:05.840
much happier Also this direct attachment

0:05:05.840,0:05:07.840
to the harness requires a little bit

0:05:07.840,0:05:10.400
more attention I had a viewer of mine

0:05:10.400,0:05:13.120
send me a picture where he accidentally

0:05:13.120,0:05:16.960
clipped like this which I can see how

0:05:16.960,0:05:19.360
that can happen quite easily where the

0:05:19.360,0:05:23.600
rope runs like so Also if you don't pay

0:05:23.600,0:05:25.600
attention and you have very skinny ble

0:05:25.600,0:05:28.680
loop you can accidentally close it like

0:05:28.680,0:05:31.680
so And you might not notice this And

0:05:31.680,0:05:34.240
this is very dangerous because it can

0:05:34.240,0:05:37.600
easily open So yeah pay attention and do

0:05:37.600,0:05:39.039
the double check before you start

0:05:39.039,0:05:41.600
climbing always Alternatively you of

0:05:41.600,0:05:43.360
course have an option to attach it with

0:05:43.360,0:05:46.080
the carabiner like any other blay device

0:05:46.080,0:05:49.039
However in this case pinch sits really

0:05:49.039,0:05:51.120
far from the harness cuz it actually has

0:05:51.120,0:05:53.759
this lip which is longer than on most of

0:05:53.759,0:05:55.919
blaying devices and it becomes really

0:05:55.919,0:05:57.840
uncomfortable to use and it kind of

0:05:57.840,0:06:01.360
defeats the main benefit of pinch

0:06:01.360,0:06:04.160
So yeah All right Now before we go to

0:06:04.160,0:06:06.880
actual benefits of direct attachment to

0:06:06.880,0:06:10.080
the harness let me first debunk one kind

0:06:10.080,0:06:13.919
of myth Now that you can give more slack

0:06:13.919,0:06:16.199
this way when the device is close to the

0:06:16.199,0:06:19.199
harness This is actually the opposite So

0:06:19.199,0:06:21.440
if I have a grigree and I give slack

0:06:21.440,0:06:23.919
like this Yes now I can give a little

0:06:23.919,0:06:27.280
bit less slack But guess what i can push

0:06:27.280,0:06:32.000
gri down giving much more slack So I

0:06:32.000,0:06:35.199
pull the rope and push the device down

0:06:35.199,0:06:37.440
This is actually a very cool technique

0:06:37.440,0:06:40.960
for short climbers or short arm

0:06:40.960,0:06:43.440
bellayers And before my comment section

0:06:43.440,0:06:45.759
explodes I have to say that there is

0:06:45.759,0:06:48.360
multiple ways to give slack You can do

0:06:48.360,0:06:52.800
this you can do that And I'm not here to

0:06:52.800,0:06:54.960
debate which method is the best the

0:06:54.960,0:06:57.360
safest However I will compare every

0:06:57.360,0:06:59.280
device in all of these methods So no

0:06:59.280,0:07:02.319
matter what you use or what you like you

0:07:02.319,0:07:04.000
will know which device is the best for

0:07:04.000,0:07:06.960
you So back to the pinch directly

0:07:06.960,0:07:09.120
attached to the harness And the main

0:07:09.120,0:07:11.360
benefit of that is that it's closer to

0:07:11.360,0:07:14.080
the harness is less floppy around And

0:07:14.080,0:07:16.240
when it falls down it does not fall as

0:07:16.240,0:07:19.120
much down So it makes it much easier to

0:07:19.120,0:07:22.160
find blindly with your hands And this

0:07:22.160,0:07:24.240
brings me to the first mistake where I

0:07:24.240,0:07:27.440
try to use pinch like I would use gri

0:07:27.440,0:07:29.520
where I would take my index finger and

0:07:29.520,0:07:32.639
hook under this lip and give slack like

0:07:32.639,0:07:35.440
this However you quickly realize that

0:07:35.440,0:07:38.080
this lip is way too small and it's not

0:07:38.080,0:07:40.319
comfortable to hook with index finger

0:07:40.319,0:07:42.960
Then I started grabbing with my thumb

0:07:42.960,0:07:45.680
around like this And actually this is

0:07:45.680,0:07:48.080
not how pinch is supposed to be bellayed

0:07:48.080,0:07:50.240
So with pinch you're supposed to have

0:07:50.240,0:07:52.400
all your fingers wrapped around the rope

0:07:52.400,0:07:55.199
and use only the thumb to gently press

0:07:55.199,0:07:57.919
on the cam and give slack like this And

0:07:57.919,0:08:00.639
this works really really well So

0:08:00.639,0:08:03.199
objectively thinking four fingers is

0:08:03.199,0:08:06.160
more than three And it also encourages

0:08:06.160,0:08:08.960
you to not touch the device when you

0:08:08.960,0:08:11.840
don't need it So it must be a little bit

0:08:11.840,0:08:14.560
safer While on contrast with Gri if I

0:08:14.560,0:08:17.840
hook my finger here and I relax too much

0:08:17.840,0:08:20.319
I might not actually hold the rope at

0:08:20.319,0:08:22.720
all And I already made a video of what

0:08:22.720,0:08:26.680
can happen in that scenario

0:08:28.479,0:08:31.039
So don't get too lazy and actually hold

0:08:31.039,0:08:33.279
the rope especially with super skinny

0:08:33.279,0:08:35.519
ropes All right So how does the pinch

0:08:35.519,0:08:38.080
work in practice the first thing I

0:08:38.080,0:08:40.880
noticed that it pinch is pretty heavy

0:08:40.880,0:08:43.039
and it's front heavy because it has a

0:08:43.039,0:08:45.200
steel insert in the front So after you

0:08:45.200,0:08:48.560
give slack it will fall down It does not

0:08:48.560,0:08:51.279
fall down as much as the giri cuz it's

0:08:51.279,0:08:53.519
closer to the harness but it does fall

0:08:53.519,0:08:55.920
down and there is no way to stop that

0:08:55.920,0:08:58.240
cuz you're not supposed to be hooking on

0:08:58.240,0:09:00.959
it So every time you give slack it falls

0:09:00.959,0:09:02.959
down and then you have to blindly find

0:09:02.959,0:09:05.200
the rope again and give slack So at

0:09:05.200,0:09:07.760
first this was kind of uncomfortable but

0:09:07.760,0:09:09.920
I thought that the longer I will use it

0:09:09.920,0:09:11.760
the more I will get used to it and

0:09:11.760,0:09:14.000
eventually it's going to be fine And

0:09:14.000,0:09:16.240
after using it for quite a while

0:09:16.240,0:09:18.240
delaying my partners projecting

0:09:18.240,0:09:20.000
different routes eventually I kind of

0:09:20.000,0:09:22.880
got used to this However the first time

0:09:22.880,0:09:25.839
I switched back to Griggi I instantly

0:09:25.839,0:09:28.640
felt how much easier it is to give slack

0:09:28.640,0:09:31.279
for me Then you give slack like this and

0:09:31.279,0:09:34.959
the device doesn't fall anywhere at all

0:09:34.959,0:09:37.440
So the first takeaway if you are a

0:09:37.440,0:09:40.080
Grigree user and you like giving slack

0:09:40.080,0:09:43.839
like this stay with Griggree If you're

0:09:43.839,0:09:46.399
someone who doesn't like this idea of

0:09:46.399,0:09:49.200
having hands close to Blay device then

0:09:49.200,0:09:52.080
pinch is much better option Now in case

0:09:52.080,0:09:54.320
you like giving slack like this in a

0:09:54.320,0:09:55.399
tube

0:09:55.399,0:09:58.800
style style then I actually tested all

0:09:58.800,0:10:00.560
the devices with different rope

0:10:00.560,0:10:02.720
thicknesses We have skinny ropes it

0:10:02.720,0:10:05.040
doesn't matter All the devices work very

0:10:05.040,0:10:06.880
well with skinny ropes Once the ropes

0:10:06.880,0:10:09.399
get slightly thicker to like

0:10:09.399,0:10:13.040
9.5 then Gri becomes unreliable It

0:10:13.040,0:10:16.079
starts locking up too much While pinch

0:10:16.079,0:10:18.720
was working really well However the king

0:10:18.720,0:10:21.680
of the hill was Neox cuz it's pretty

0:10:21.680,0:10:24.399
much designed to be blayed like this

0:10:24.399,0:10:26.720
It's incredibly smooth Even with the

0:10:26.720,0:10:30.000
ropes up to like 10 mm it's still super

0:10:30.000,0:10:32.880
smooth So if that's how you blay then

0:10:32.880,0:10:36.880
Nox is your best blay device Okay Now

0:10:36.880,0:10:39.920
one thing that I did not like about the

0:10:39.920,0:10:42.560
pinch that it felt that it takes more

0:10:42.560,0:10:45.440
effort to pull the rope through I asked

0:10:45.440,0:10:47.600
you guys and some of you said that

0:10:47.600,0:10:50.560
actually pinch is much smoother than gri

0:10:50.560,0:10:52.480
However others said that pulling the

0:10:52.480,0:10:54.399
rope through pinch feels like doing

0:10:54.399,0:10:57.279
chores So first I wanted to measure how

0:10:57.279,0:11:00.640
much internal friction each device has I

0:11:00.640,0:11:03.040
kept adding weights and checking when

0:11:03.040,0:11:06.000
the rope started to slip First

0:11:06.000,0:11:09.040
observation was that my old grigy had

0:11:09.040,0:11:11.360
slightly lower friction compared to

0:11:11.360,0:11:13.440
brand new one This is probably due to

0:11:13.440,0:11:16.160
smoothening and rounded edges and I

0:11:16.160,0:11:18.880
should probably retire this gri already

0:11:18.880,0:11:21.680
and pinch depending on the rope had up

0:11:21.680,0:11:25.279
to 30% more friction compared to a brand

0:11:25.279,0:11:27.760
new Griggree Now I was expecting that

0:11:27.760,0:11:30.959
Neox will beat all of these devices

0:11:30.959,0:11:33.920
However that is surprising Turns out

0:11:33.920,0:11:37.040
that my Neox had so much dust that the

0:11:37.040,0:11:40.240
wheel does not spin as smooth as it used

0:11:40.240,0:11:44.000
to So I did buy a new Neox nice black

0:11:44.000,0:11:47.640
one I like it And it is actually

0:11:47.640,0:11:52.880
significantly smoother It's crazy

0:11:57.959,0:12:01.600
smooth So I contacted Pzel and asked how

0:12:01.600,0:12:04.800
to clean my old Neox And once I get a

0:12:04.800,0:12:07.480
response I will try and see if cleaning

0:12:07.480,0:12:11.000
helps or actually Neox's have some dirty

0:12:11.000,0:12:13.440
issues So I'm going to make a separate

0:12:13.440,0:12:15.920
video on that Now I did not want to rely

0:12:15.920,0:12:18.720
on a single ugabooga test so I did

0:12:18.720,0:12:20.639
another one This time I wanted to

0:12:20.639,0:12:23.600
measure how much energy it takes to give

0:12:23.600,0:12:26.959
one arm of slack To make things as equal

0:12:26.959,0:12:30.160
as possible for the gri I used a tiny

0:12:30.160,0:12:32.800
tiny carabiner This way the amount of

0:12:32.800,0:12:35.600
rope pulled through all the devices is

0:12:35.600,0:12:38.079
very similar And then I used a small

0:12:38.079,0:12:40.639
load cell to measure the forces over

0:12:40.639,0:12:44.480
time which should give me this value

0:12:44.480,0:12:47.200
Man this is significantly harder Now as

0:12:47.200,0:12:49.440
you can imagine having consistency in

0:12:49.440,0:12:52.639
such tests is really difficult That's

0:12:52.639,0:12:56.240
why I needed a lot of samples a lot of

0:12:56.240,0:12:58.800
data points to reach statistically

0:12:58.800,0:13:02.079
significant numbers Wow my shoulder is

0:13:02.079,0:13:05.079
working on this device Also I had an

0:13:05.079,0:13:08.160
unexpected discovery that such way of

0:13:08.160,0:13:11.200
giving and taking slack many many times

0:13:11.200,0:13:14.720
macaroni causes many many tangles in the

0:13:14.720,0:13:18.440
rope which I had to remove before every

0:13:18.440,0:13:21.839
experiment So yeah new Neos this time

0:13:21.839,0:13:26.800
felt the smoothest and that's a

0:13:27.079,0:13:31.920
difference very closely followed by

0:13:32.440,0:13:37.360
Gri and pinch was double the trouble

0:13:37.360,0:13:40.120
This feels much

0:13:40.120,0:13:43.519
harder All right next up Now I'm going

0:13:43.519,0:13:47.760
to regret this This is 10 mm rope I

0:13:47.760,0:13:50.279
already feel my shoulder from

0:13:50.279,0:13:54.959
9.5 So with 10 mm rope Griggy was hard

0:13:54.959,0:13:56.040
to

0:13:56.040,0:13:59.639
use Definitely

0:13:59.639,0:14:05.160
usable Not easy though but

0:14:05.160,0:14:08.800
usable But pinch was another level Let's

0:14:08.800,0:14:10.440
see how this

0:14:10.440,0:14:14.920
goes Oh yeah

0:14:19.199,0:14:22.360
It's an actual workout

0:14:22.360,0:14:26.560
now However Neox was impressive in a

0:14:26.560,0:14:28.839
good way Okay new

0:14:28.839,0:14:32.399
cre Oh

0:14:32.839,0:14:35.839
wow

0:14:36.360,0:14:39.760
Okay that's

0:14:40.199,0:14:44.880
nice Oh it locks Now taking the slack

0:14:44.880,0:14:48.000
felt really great with pinch There was

0:14:48.000,0:14:51.680
no back slip at all However when it

0:14:51.680,0:14:54.639
comes to lowering I had antipanic

0:14:54.639,0:14:58.959
engaging all the time

0:14:58.959,0:15:03.279
Wow it's or and yes you can override it

0:15:03.279,0:15:06.560
by pulling the lever even more which

0:15:06.560,0:15:10.480
works well However in certain projecting

0:15:10.480,0:15:12.639
situations when the climbber asks to

0:15:12.639,0:15:16.079
lower just a bit and antipanic kicks in

0:15:16.079,0:15:18.639
it causes a jarring experience both for

0:15:18.639,0:15:21.360
the climbber and for the bare Now good

0:15:21.360,0:15:23.519
part is that you can actually disable

0:15:23.519,0:15:25.920
this antipanic feature by inserting a

0:15:25.920,0:15:28.639
little screw that came into the package

0:15:28.639,0:15:32.000
And unfortunately for me um I had no

0:15:32.000,0:15:34.240
idea what that screw is when I got the

0:15:34.240,0:15:37.040
device and now I have no idea where that

0:15:37.040,0:15:40.720
screw is Moving forward the front of the

0:15:40.720,0:15:43.519
pinch has a steel insert So if you let

0:15:43.519,0:15:46.000
the rope run through that it should make

0:15:46.000,0:15:48.800
the device last much longer unlike the

0:15:48.800,0:15:51.120
Grig where it develops grooves over the

0:15:51.120,0:15:53.759
edge It should also provide more control

0:15:53.759,0:15:56.959
in lowering with skinnier ropes However

0:15:56.959,0:16:00.040
from my testing I could barely feel a

0:16:00.040,0:16:03.199
difference So this steel insert is a

0:16:03.199,0:16:05.680
nice addition However I do slightly

0:16:05.680,0:16:07.839
prefer having my hand on the side when

0:16:07.839,0:16:11.120
lowering So I would prefer having steel

0:16:11.120,0:16:14.240
on the side like Gri Plus has and maybe

0:16:14.240,0:16:17.279
a little bit less when in the front to

0:16:17.279,0:16:20.000
have less weight All right next

0:16:20.000,0:16:24.360
experiment Ready yeah

0:16:28.160,0:16:31.920
I mean done So I have done a bunch of

0:16:31.920,0:16:34.560
these tests with Gri in the past and it

0:16:34.560,0:16:37.120
pretty much imitates of what happens if

0:16:37.120,0:16:39.839
you don't hold the rope and there was no

0:16:39.839,0:16:42.240
slack in the system in the beginning

0:16:42.240,0:16:44.600
Basically first attempt and it already

0:16:44.600,0:16:47.600
slipped

0:16:47.959,0:16:51.040
and nothing Just for comparison let's

0:16:51.040,0:16:53.120
compare against Gri And then let's

0:16:53.120,0:16:55.160
compare against

0:16:55.160,0:16:57.720
Gri Ah I need a

0:16:57.720,0:17:01.040
carabiner Ah see how great the pinch is

0:17:01.040,0:17:04.079
You don't even need a carabiner Oh yes

0:17:04.079,0:17:06.400
Swing it so it falls straight on my head

0:17:06.400,0:17:11.959
and kills me And this is gri

0:17:17.039,0:17:19.839
Yeah I've done this in the past a lot A

0:17:19.839,0:17:22.720
lot a lot And it's possible to make it

0:17:22.720,0:17:25.679
completely slip

0:17:26.120,0:17:29.080
but way

0:17:29.080,0:17:31.960
harder Okay just

0:17:31.960,0:17:37.039
for sake of comparison this is

0:17:40.440,0:17:43.520
criy Some people asked why it's why I

0:17:43.520,0:17:47.840
call it creek Let's go

0:17:48.640,0:17:51.760
I think this is even worse than pinch It

0:17:51.760,0:17:55.039
seemed like it's falling much

0:17:59.320,0:18:02.320
faster

0:18:02.360,0:18:06.000
Yes This is definitely more sketchy Now

0:18:06.000,0:18:08.240
every time I do these tests someone will

0:18:08.240,0:18:11.280
complain that I'm using too low weights

0:18:11.280,0:18:13.520
But I have already explained in my

0:18:13.520,0:18:16.160
physics of Griggree video how friction

0:18:16.160,0:18:19.360
affects the forces So I highly recommend

0:18:19.360,0:18:21.919
to watch that video But long story short

0:18:21.919,0:18:24.640
with enough friction your climbber

0:18:24.640,0:18:27.600
becomes very light Let's maybe try with

0:18:27.600,0:18:29.600
more weight because there's always

0:18:29.600,0:18:32.360
people complaining about me using low

0:18:32.360,0:18:36.320
weights Oh sheesh

0:18:36.320,0:18:39.360
It's not going to kill

0:18:46.679,0:18:49.200
me I guess I'm not going to try that

0:18:49.200,0:18:51.559
with

0:18:51.559,0:18:57.000
Neox Or should I you should I

0:18:57.000,0:19:02.440
should [ __ ] Now it's a bit sketchy

0:19:04.480,0:19:06.360
Okay this is

0:19:06.360,0:19:08.760
definitely much more

0:19:08.760,0:19:11.600
sketchy So when it comes to this test

0:19:11.600,0:19:14.480
Griggy was the safest followed by pinch

0:19:14.480,0:19:18.160
and Neox was the most likely to slip So

0:19:18.160,0:19:21.600
I got a comment that catches with pinch

0:19:21.600,0:19:24.320
felt harder than catches with gri So

0:19:24.320,0:19:26.640
what I'm going to try is to measure the

0:19:26.640,0:19:30.320
forces I am a bit skeptical about this I

0:19:30.320,0:19:32.799
mean when Gri catches there is the

0:19:32.799,0:19:35.919
carabiner which moves up so maybe that

0:19:35.919,0:19:38.600
plays a role

0:19:38.600,0:19:41.600
Three

0:19:42.600,0:19:46.240
four Okay

0:19:51.400,0:19:54.039
077

0:19:54.039,0:19:57.039
3

0:20:00.039,0:20:05.360
4 6 Exactly the

0:20:07.799,0:20:09.559
same

0:20:09.559,0:20:12.720
68 So I'm getting consistent results

0:20:12.720,0:20:14.480
It's not even like that It's

0:20:14.480,0:20:17.880
progressively loading It's just

0:20:17.880,0:20:20.880
goes The only difference would be if

0:20:20.880,0:20:22.720
there would be different slippage in the

0:20:22.720,0:20:24.960
device But both of these devices seem to

0:20:24.960,0:20:27.280
have similar slippage which is very

0:20:27.280,0:20:28.679
little

0:20:28.679,0:20:33.280
So equal However what should play more

0:20:33.280,0:20:37.360
of a bigger effect is doing a proper

0:20:37.360,0:20:39.760
soft catch It's a bit silly to even try

0:20:39.760,0:20:42.880
on this uh test setup but let's see if I

0:20:42.880,0:20:45.200
can do

0:20:46.440,0:20:49.000
anything Half

0:20:49.000,0:20:52.640
035 compared to the previous one So

0:20:52.640,0:20:54.720
that's a good illustration how soft

0:20:54.720,0:20:57.600
catch plays a much bigger role And

0:20:57.600,0:20:59.240
actually my next video is going to be

0:20:59.240,0:21:02.240
about soft catches and catching falls

0:21:02.240,0:21:06.159
for my blay master class So stay tuned

0:21:06.159,0:21:08.520
All right So

0:21:08.520,0:21:11.679
takeaways grigree is definitely smoother

0:21:11.679,0:21:14.559
to pull the rope through However this is

0:21:14.559,0:21:17.039
only noticeable on thicker ropes like

0:21:17.039,0:21:21.440
9.5 or above or some older fuzzier ropes

0:21:21.440,0:21:24.080
Now if you bellayed in the past with gri

0:21:24.080,0:21:27.440
and you like this index finger hooking

0:21:27.440,0:21:31.120
on the lip to pay with slack by gri stay

0:21:31.120,0:21:34.240
with gri be happy with gri However if

0:21:34.240,0:21:36.080
you're not a fan of touching the blaying

0:21:36.080,0:21:39.440
device then pinch is definitely an

0:21:39.440,0:21:42.799
amazing alternative for you It works

0:21:42.799,0:21:47.600
surprisingly well Very nice And I would

0:21:47.600,0:21:48.919
pick

0:21:48.919,0:21:52.600
Neos if I would primarily delay like

0:21:52.600,0:21:56.720
this or I would use very very thick

0:21:56.720,0:22:00.559
beefy ropes like 10 mm or above ropes

0:22:00.559,0:22:03.600
It's only usable with Neox And before we

0:22:03.600,0:22:05.600
finish I wanted to share a story with

0:22:05.600,0:22:08.400
you When I was in university I had a

0:22:08.400,0:22:10.799
calculus teacher who was probably one of

0:22:10.799,0:22:13.200
the best teachers we had back then there

0:22:13.200,0:22:15.520
And that teacher worked at a bank at a

0:22:15.520,0:22:17.919
high position in a bank So he was making

0:22:17.919,0:22:20.799
much more money in his bank job than

0:22:20.799,0:22:23.039
teaching us And because of that one day

0:22:23.039,0:22:24.799
somebody asked him like hey what's the

0:22:24.799,0:22:26.640
point for you to come here every year

0:22:26.640,0:22:29.520
and teach us when you are already there

0:22:29.520,0:22:33.679
in your glamorous life and his answer

0:22:33.679,0:22:35.760
actually stuck to me till this day He

0:22:35.760,0:22:39.679
said well it's an exercise for my brain

0:22:39.679,0:22:42.080
and I don't want to forget the basics So

0:22:42.080,0:22:44.400
yeah for me that was a very nice message

0:22:44.400,0:22:46.480
to never stop learning and that's why

0:22:46.480,0:22:48.480
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0:23:13.520,0:23:16.080
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0:23:16.080,0:23:19.039
is how are you going to know if the

0:23:19.039,0:23:21.600
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0:23:21.600,0:23:24.559
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0:24:04.000,0:24:09.120
for being curious Enjoy climbing then