[Script Info]
Title: 
[Events]
Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text
Dialogue: 0,0:00:00.24,0:00:04.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so it looks like Griggree works like
Dialogue: 0,0:00:04.04,0:00:08.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Gri like Gri So let's do some of those
Dialogue: 0,0:00:08.32,0:00:11.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,strange experiments and figure out if it
Dialogue: 0,0:00:11.12,0:00:14.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is a Grigree And to make things complete
Dialogue: 0,0:00:14.24,0:00:16.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I will also include Neox into the mix
Dialogue: 0,0:00:16.56,0:00:18.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,also known as Gri And in case you want a
Dialogue: 0,0:00:18.96,0:00:21.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,TLDDR version when it comes to cam
Dialogue: 0,0:00:21.52,0:00:23.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,assisted devices Pinch is probably the
Dialogue: 0,0:00:23.92,0:00:26.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,best alternative to Gri right now And if
Dialogue: 0,0:00:26.00,0:00:27.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you want to know if it is better than
Dialogue: 0,0:00:27.60,0:00:30.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Gri then the answer is not that simple
Dialogue: 0,0:00:30.56,0:00:34.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So let's see All right So the only truly
Dialogue: 0,0:00:34.08,0:00:36.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,unique feature of this device is that
Dialogue: 0,0:00:36.24,0:00:38.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can attach it directly to the
Dialogue: 0,0:00:38.16,0:00:40.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,harness without the need of extra
Dialogue: 0,0:00:40.24,0:00:42.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,carabiner which I thought it's a super
Dialogue: 0,0:00:42.64,0:00:45.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,cool idea However what everybody
Dialogue: 0,0:00:45.20,0:00:47.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,instantly notices that this button which
Dialogue: 0,0:00:47.68,0:00:50.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,releases the device is not multi-action
Dialogue: 0,0:00:50.72,0:00:53.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So it's pretty easy to press on it and
Dialogue: 0,0:00:53.36,0:00:56.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,remove the device So the question is can
Dialogue: 0,0:00:56.08,0:00:59.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that happen during the blaying and Edid
Dialogue: 0,0:00:59.36,0:01:02.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,got bombarded by this question Oh yeah I
Dialogue: 0,0:01:02.24,0:01:04.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,don't know how often I saw this and
Dialogue: 0,0:01:04.48,0:01:06.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,honestly I was quite surprised that this
Dialogue: 0,0:01:06.96,0:01:09.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is the first thing people think of and
Dialogue: 0,0:01:09.44,0:01:11.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,also with what passive aggressive
Dialogue: 0,0:01:11.92,0:01:14.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,criticism this gets So yeah if you worry
Dialogue: 0,0:01:14.56,0:01:17.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,about safety you are passive
Dialogue: 0,0:01:17.40,0:01:20.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,aggressive But since my name got there
Dialogue: 0,0:01:20.00,0:01:23.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,somehow I feel I have a duty now So to
Dialogue: 0,0:01:23.12,0:01:25.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,investigate this let's divide it into
Dialogue: 0,0:01:25.76,0:01:28.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,four possible states First when the
Dialogue: 0,0:01:28.40,0:01:30.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device is loaded then the device is
Dialogue: 0,0:01:30.88,0:01:33.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,unloaded and the transition between
Dialogue: 0,0:01:33.20,0:01:35.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,these two states So let's begin with
Dialogue: 0,0:01:35.20,0:01:37.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,unloaded scenario And let's see what
Dialogue: 0,0:01:37.44,0:01:40.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Ederlid has to say about that Could I
Dialogue: 0,0:01:40.16,0:01:42.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,accidentally open the device in an
Dialogue: 0,0:01:42.16,0:01:44.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,unloaded scenario and the answer to this
Dialogue: 0,0:01:44.08,0:01:47.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is no It is simply impossible when you
Dialogue: 0,0:01:47.12,0:01:49.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are attentive and you operate the device
Dialogue: 0,0:01:49.52,0:01:51.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as shown in the user's manual So
Dialogue: 0,0:01:51.84,0:01:54.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,understood Read the friendly manual and
Dialogue: 0,0:01:54.72,0:01:58.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then it's safe But um yeah before Phil
Dialogue: 0,0:01:58.16,0:02:00.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,starts hating me let's look into this
Dialogue: 0,0:02:00.48,0:02:02.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,deeper So there is actually only one
Dialogue: 0,0:02:02.96,0:02:05.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,spot where I can press the button It's
Dialogue: 0,0:02:05.44,0:02:07.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,right here If I start pressing somewhere
Dialogue: 0,0:02:07.92,0:02:10.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,else nothing happens And this button is
Dialogue: 0,0:02:10.72,0:02:13.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nicely flush with the plastic round So
Dialogue: 0,0:02:13.28,0:02:16.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pressing from the sides nothing happens
Dialogue: 0,0:02:16.64,0:02:19.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Plus the button has pretty stiff spring
Dialogue: 0,0:02:19.28,0:02:22.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You need to press it quite hard to open
Dialogue: 0,0:02:22.32,0:02:24.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If the device is unloaded and I would
Dialogue: 0,0:02:24.80,0:02:27.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,try to press the button I'm simply going
Dialogue: 0,0:02:27.12,0:02:29.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to push the device to the side and
Dialogue: 0,0:02:29.68,0:02:32.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nothing is going to happen Even if I try
Dialogue: 0,0:02:32.16,0:02:39.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to poke it really hard Ow ow ow ow ow So
Dialogue: 0,0:02:39.36,0:02:42.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the only way I can imagine pressing that
Dialogue: 0,0:02:42.24,0:02:45.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,button in unloaded scenario is if I
Dialogue: 0,0:02:45.28,0:02:47.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would I don't know get knocked by the
Dialogue: 0,0:02:47.44,0:02:50.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rock fall on the ground and somehow
Dialogue: 0,0:02:50.40,0:02:52.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,press on that button and release the
Dialogue: 0,0:02:52.32,0:02:56.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device How likely for that is to
Dialogue: 0,0:02:56.60,0:02:59.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,happen probably not very okay Next
Dialogue: 0,0:02:59.52,0:03:02.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,scenario The device is loaded Well I'm
Dialogue: 0,0:03:02.64,0:03:05.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,trying to load it now I can press the
Dialogue: 0,0:03:05.88,0:03:11.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,button Okay But I cannot open the
Dialogue: 0,0:03:12.60,0:03:14.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device
Dialogue: 0,0:03:14.12,0:03:17.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Well apparently I
Dialogue: 0,0:03:18.76,0:03:22.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,can That was not planned That was first
Dialogue: 0,0:03:22.24,0:03:26.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,attempt Ah okay See what happens And I
Dialogue: 0,0:03:26.32,0:03:28.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was pulling down on the brake strand
Dialogue: 0,0:03:28.88,0:03:32.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,really hard and then it got loaded But
Dialogue: 0,0:03:32.40,0:03:36.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it got loaded in this downwards facing
Dialogue: 0,0:03:36.64,0:03:40.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,direction and then somehow by pushing on
Dialogue: 0,0:03:40.08,0:03:43.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the button I managed to slip the sling a
Dialogue: 0,0:03:43.04,0:03:46.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,little bit and now I can open it
Dialogue: 0,0:03:46.80,0:03:50.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Normally if the load is really high
Dialogue: 0,0:03:50.24,0:03:52.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,probably I would not be able to pull the
Dialogue: 0,0:03:52.56,0:03:55.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device down as much and then in this
Dialogue: 0,0:03:55.12,0:03:57.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,scenario if I press the button and I
Dialogue: 0,0:03:57.52,0:04:00.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would try to open it it would not open
Dialogue: 0,0:04:00.80,0:04:03.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because there is this little extra lip
Dialogue: 0,0:04:03.04,0:04:05.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is hooking on the blay loop So
Dialogue: 0,0:04:05.76,0:04:07.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,here is actually a good moment to talk
Dialogue: 0,0:04:07.68,0:04:10.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that there is a limit on blay loop width
Dialogue: 0,0:04:10.64,0:04:13.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If it's too wide it's not good cuz
Dialogue: 0,0:04:13.04,0:04:15.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device will sit sideways But if it's
Dialogue: 0,0:04:15.36,0:04:17.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,very skinny like the one that I have
Dialogue: 0,0:04:17.52,0:04:20.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,right now then it's more likely that the
Dialogue: 0,0:04:20.24,0:04:22.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,loop could sit in some strange
Dialogue: 0,0:04:22.60,0:04:25.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,orientation So I would be more cautious
Dialogue: 0,0:04:25.28,0:04:27.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with super skinny harnesses like this
Dialogue: 0,0:04:27.44,0:04:31.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,one Now what if the device is loaded I
Dialogue: 0,0:04:31.36,0:04:33.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,press the button and in that moment
Dialogue: 0,0:04:33.76,0:04:37.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,somehow it would unload Could it uncip
Dialogue: 0,0:04:37.28,0:04:40.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at this moment
Dialogue: 0,0:04:40.60,0:04:44.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,well I wouldn't say no but at the same
Dialogue: 0,0:04:44.32,0:04:47.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,time it's very very unlikely So yeah
Dialogue: 0,0:04:47.68,0:04:49.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,personally with this super skinny ble
Dialogue: 0,0:04:49.76,0:04:52.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,loop I was using this device with a
Dialogue: 0,0:04:52.08,0:04:54.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,backup carabiner maybe a thicker blay
Dialogue: 0,0:04:54.48,0:04:57.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,loops my monkey brain would be happier
Dialogue: 0,0:04:57.52,0:05:00.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However I'm certain that if this button
Dialogue: 0,0:05:00.24,0:05:02.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would be double action then I would be
Dialogue: 0,0:05:02.32,0:05:05.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,much happier Also this direct attachment
Dialogue: 0,0:05:05.84,0:05:07.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to the harness requires a little bit
Dialogue: 0,0:05:07.84,0:05:10.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,more attention I had a viewer of mine
Dialogue: 0,0:05:10.40,0:05:13.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,send me a picture where he accidentally
Dialogue: 0,0:05:13.12,0:05:16.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,clipped like this which I can see how
Dialogue: 0,0:05:16.96,0:05:19.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that can happen quite easily where the
Dialogue: 0,0:05:19.36,0:05:23.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope runs like so Also if you don't pay
Dialogue: 0,0:05:23.60,0:05:25.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,attention and you have very skinny ble
Dialogue: 0,0:05:25.60,0:05:28.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,loop you can accidentally close it like
Dialogue: 0,0:05:28.68,0:05:31.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so And you might not notice this And
Dialogue: 0,0:05:31.68,0:05:34.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this is very dangerous because it can
Dialogue: 0,0:05:34.24,0:05:37.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,easily open So yeah pay attention and do
Dialogue: 0,0:05:37.60,0:05:39.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the double check before you start
Dialogue: 0,0:05:39.04,0:05:41.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climbing always Alternatively you of
Dialogue: 0,0:05:41.60,0:05:43.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,course have an option to attach it with
Dialogue: 0,0:05:43.36,0:05:46.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the carabiner like any other blay device
Dialogue: 0,0:05:46.08,0:05:49.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However in this case pinch sits really
Dialogue: 0,0:05:49.04,0:05:51.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,far from the harness cuz it actually has
Dialogue: 0,0:05:51.12,0:05:53.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this lip which is longer than on most of
Dialogue: 0,0:05:53.76,0:05:55.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,blaying devices and it becomes really
Dialogue: 0,0:05:55.92,0:05:57.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,uncomfortable to use and it kind of
Dialogue: 0,0:05:57.84,0:06:01.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,defeats the main benefit of pinch
Dialogue: 0,0:06:01.36,0:06:04.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So yeah All right Now before we go to
Dialogue: 0,0:06:04.16,0:06:06.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,actual benefits of direct attachment to
Dialogue: 0,0:06:06.88,0:06:10.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the harness let me first debunk one kind
Dialogue: 0,0:06:10.08,0:06:13.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of myth Now that you can give more slack
Dialogue: 0,0:06:13.92,0:06:16.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this way when the device is close to the
Dialogue: 0,0:06:16.20,0:06:19.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,harness This is actually the opposite So
Dialogue: 0,0:06:19.20,0:06:21.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if I have a grigree and I give slack
Dialogue: 0,0:06:21.44,0:06:23.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like this Yes now I can give a little
Dialogue: 0,0:06:23.92,0:06:27.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bit less slack But guess what i can push
Dialogue: 0,0:06:27.28,0:06:32.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,gri down giving much more slack So I
Dialogue: 0,0:06:32.00,0:06:35.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pull the rope and push the device down
Dialogue: 0,0:06:35.20,0:06:37.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is actually a very cool technique
Dialogue: 0,0:06:37.44,0:06:40.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for short climbers or short arm
Dialogue: 0,0:06:40.96,0:06:43.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bellayers And before my comment section
Dialogue: 0,0:06:43.44,0:06:45.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,explodes I have to say that there is
Dialogue: 0,0:06:45.76,0:06:48.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,multiple ways to give slack You can do
Dialogue: 0,0:06:48.36,0:06:52.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this you can do that And I'm not here to
Dialogue: 0,0:06:52.80,0:06:54.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,debate which method is the best the
Dialogue: 0,0:06:54.96,0:06:57.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,safest However I will compare every
Dialogue: 0,0:06:57.36,0:06:59.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device in all of these methods So no
Dialogue: 0,0:06:59.28,0:07:02.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,matter what you use or what you like you
Dialogue: 0,0:07:02.32,0:07:04.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will know which device is the best for
Dialogue: 0,0:07:04.00,0:07:06.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you So back to the pinch directly
Dialogue: 0,0:07:06.96,0:07:09.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,attached to the harness And the main
Dialogue: 0,0:07:09.12,0:07:11.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,benefit of that is that it's closer to
Dialogue: 0,0:07:11.36,0:07:14.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the harness is less floppy around And
Dialogue: 0,0:07:14.08,0:07:16.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when it falls down it does not fall as
Dialogue: 0,0:07:16.24,0:07:19.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,much down So it makes it much easier to
Dialogue: 0,0:07:19.12,0:07:22.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,find blindly with your hands And this
Dialogue: 0,0:07:22.16,0:07:24.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,brings me to the first mistake where I
Dialogue: 0,0:07:24.24,0:07:27.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,try to use pinch like I would use gri
Dialogue: 0,0:07:27.44,0:07:29.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where I would take my index finger and
Dialogue: 0,0:07:29.52,0:07:32.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hook under this lip and give slack like
Dialogue: 0,0:07:32.64,0:07:35.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this However you quickly realize that
Dialogue: 0,0:07:35.44,0:07:38.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this lip is way too small and it's not
Dialogue: 0,0:07:38.08,0:07:40.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,comfortable to hook with index finger
Dialogue: 0,0:07:40.32,0:07:42.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Then I started grabbing with my thumb
Dialogue: 0,0:07:42.96,0:07:45.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,around like this And actually this is
Dialogue: 0,0:07:45.68,0:07:48.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not how pinch is supposed to be bellayed
Dialogue: 0,0:07:48.08,0:07:50.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So with pinch you're supposed to have
Dialogue: 0,0:07:50.24,0:07:52.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all your fingers wrapped around the rope
Dialogue: 0,0:07:52.40,0:07:55.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and use only the thumb to gently press
Dialogue: 0,0:07:55.20,0:07:57.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the cam and give slack like this And
Dialogue: 0,0:07:57.92,0:08:00.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this works really really well So
Dialogue: 0,0:08:00.64,0:08:03.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,objectively thinking four fingers is
Dialogue: 0,0:08:03.20,0:08:06.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,more than three And it also encourages
Dialogue: 0,0:08:06.16,0:08:08.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you to not touch the device when you
Dialogue: 0,0:08:08.96,0:08:11.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,don't need it So it must be a little bit
Dialogue: 0,0:08:11.84,0:08:14.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,safer While on contrast with Gri if I
Dialogue: 0,0:08:14.56,0:08:17.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hook my finger here and I relax too much
Dialogue: 0,0:08:17.84,0:08:20.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I might not actually hold the rope at
Dialogue: 0,0:08:20.32,0:08:22.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all And I already made a video of what
Dialogue: 0,0:08:22.72,0:08:26.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,can happen in that scenario
Dialogue: 0,0:08:28.48,0:08:31.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So don't get too lazy and actually hold
Dialogue: 0,0:08:31.04,0:08:33.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope especially with super skinny
Dialogue: 0,0:08:33.28,0:08:35.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ropes All right So how does the pinch
Dialogue: 0,0:08:35.52,0:08:38.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,work in practice the first thing I
Dialogue: 0,0:08:38.08,0:08:40.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,noticed that it pinch is pretty heavy
Dialogue: 0,0:08:40.88,0:08:43.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it's front heavy because it has a
Dialogue: 0,0:08:43.04,0:08:45.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,steel insert in the front So after you
Dialogue: 0,0:08:45.20,0:08:48.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,give slack it will fall down It does not
Dialogue: 0,0:08:48.56,0:08:51.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fall down as much as the giri cuz it's
Dialogue: 0,0:08:51.28,0:08:53.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,closer to the harness but it does fall
Dialogue: 0,0:08:53.52,0:08:55.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,down and there is no way to stop that
Dialogue: 0,0:08:55.92,0:08:58.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,cuz you're not supposed to be hooking on
Dialogue: 0,0:08:58.24,0:09:00.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it So every time you give slack it falls
Dialogue: 0,0:09:00.96,0:09:02.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,down and then you have to blindly find
Dialogue: 0,0:09:02.96,0:09:05.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope again and give slack So at
Dialogue: 0,0:09:05.20,0:09:07.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,first this was kind of uncomfortable but
Dialogue: 0,0:09:07.76,0:09:09.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I thought that the longer I will use it
Dialogue: 0,0:09:09.92,0:09:11.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the more I will get used to it and
Dialogue: 0,0:09:11.76,0:09:14.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,eventually it's going to be fine And
Dialogue: 0,0:09:14.00,0:09:16.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,after using it for quite a while
Dialogue: 0,0:09:16.24,0:09:18.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,delaying my partners projecting
Dialogue: 0,0:09:18.24,0:09:20.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,different routes eventually I kind of
Dialogue: 0,0:09:20.00,0:09:22.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,got used to this However the first time
Dialogue: 0,0:09:22.88,0:09:25.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I switched back to Griggi I instantly
Dialogue: 0,0:09:25.84,0:09:28.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,felt how much easier it is to give slack
Dialogue: 0,0:09:28.64,0:09:31.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for me Then you give slack like this and
Dialogue: 0,0:09:31.28,0:09:34.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the device doesn't fall anywhere at all
Dialogue: 0,0:09:34.96,0:09:37.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So the first takeaway if you are a
Dialogue: 0,0:09:37.44,0:09:40.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Grigree user and you like giving slack
Dialogue: 0,0:09:40.08,0:09:43.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like this stay with Griggree If you're
Dialogue: 0,0:09:43.84,0:09:46.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,someone who doesn't like this idea of
Dialogue: 0,0:09:46.40,0:09:49.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,having hands close to Blay device then
Dialogue: 0,0:09:49.20,0:09:52.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pinch is much better option Now in case
Dialogue: 0,0:09:52.08,0:09:54.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you like giving slack like this in a
Dialogue: 0,0:09:54.32,0:09:55.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tube
Dialogue: 0,0:09:55.40,0:09:58.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,style style then I actually tested all
Dialogue: 0,0:09:58.80,0:10:00.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the devices with different rope
Dialogue: 0,0:10:00.56,0:10:02.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thicknesses We have skinny ropes it
Dialogue: 0,0:10:02.72,0:10:05.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doesn't matter All the devices work very
Dialogue: 0,0:10:05.04,0:10:06.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,well with skinny ropes Once the ropes
Dialogue: 0,0:10:06.88,0:10:09.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,get slightly thicker to like
Dialogue: 0,0:10:09.40,0:10:13.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,9.5 then Gri becomes unreliable It
Dialogue: 0,0:10:13.04,0:10:16.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,starts locking up too much While pinch
Dialogue: 0,0:10:16.08,0:10:18.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was working really well However the king
Dialogue: 0,0:10:18.72,0:10:21.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of the hill was Neox cuz it's pretty
Dialogue: 0,0:10:21.68,0:10:24.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,much designed to be blayed like this
Dialogue: 0,0:10:24.40,0:10:26.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's incredibly smooth Even with the
Dialogue: 0,0:10:26.72,0:10:30.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ropes up to like 10 mm it's still super
Dialogue: 0,0:10:30.00,0:10:32.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,smooth So if that's how you blay then
Dialogue: 0,0:10:32.88,0:10:36.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Nox is your best blay device Okay Now
Dialogue: 0,0:10:36.88,0:10:39.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,one thing that I did not like about the
Dialogue: 0,0:10:39.92,0:10:42.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pinch that it felt that it takes more
Dialogue: 0,0:10:42.56,0:10:45.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,effort to pull the rope through I asked
Dialogue: 0,0:10:45.44,0:10:47.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you guys and some of you said that
Dialogue: 0,0:10:47.60,0:10:50.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,actually pinch is much smoother than gri
Dialogue: 0,0:10:50.56,0:10:52.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However others said that pulling the
Dialogue: 0,0:10:52.48,0:10:54.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope through pinch feels like doing
Dialogue: 0,0:10:54.40,0:10:57.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,chores So first I wanted to measure how
Dialogue: 0,0:10:57.28,0:11:00.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,much internal friction each device has I
Dialogue: 0,0:11:00.64,0:11:03.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,kept adding weights and checking when
Dialogue: 0,0:11:03.04,0:11:06.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope started to slip First
Dialogue: 0,0:11:06.00,0:11:09.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,observation was that my old grigy had
Dialogue: 0,0:11:09.04,0:11:11.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slightly lower friction compared to
Dialogue: 0,0:11:11.36,0:11:13.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,brand new one This is probably due to
Dialogue: 0,0:11:13.44,0:11:16.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,smoothening and rounded edges and I
Dialogue: 0,0:11:16.16,0:11:18.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,should probably retire this gri already
Dialogue: 0,0:11:18.88,0:11:21.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and pinch depending on the rope had up
Dialogue: 0,0:11:21.68,0:11:25.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to 30% more friction compared to a brand
Dialogue: 0,0:11:25.28,0:11:27.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,new Griggree Now I was expecting that
Dialogue: 0,0:11:27.76,0:11:30.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Neox will beat all of these devices
Dialogue: 0,0:11:30.96,0:11:33.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However that is surprising Turns out
Dialogue: 0,0:11:33.92,0:11:37.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that my Neox had so much dust that the
Dialogue: 0,0:11:37.04,0:11:40.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wheel does not spin as smooth as it used
Dialogue: 0,0:11:40.24,0:11:44.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to So I did buy a new Neox nice black
Dialogue: 0,0:11:44.00,0:11:47.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,one I like it And it is actually
Dialogue: 0,0:11:47.64,0:11:52.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,significantly smoother It's crazy
Dialogue: 0,0:11:57.96,0:12:01.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,smooth So I contacted Pzel and asked how
Dialogue: 0,0:12:01.60,0:12:04.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to clean my old Neox And once I get a
Dialogue: 0,0:12:04.80,0:12:07.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,response I will try and see if cleaning
Dialogue: 0,0:12:07.48,0:12:11.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,helps or actually Neox's have some dirty
Dialogue: 0,0:12:11.00,0:12:13.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,issues So I'm going to make a separate
Dialogue: 0,0:12:13.44,0:12:15.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,video on that Now I did not want to rely
Dialogue: 0,0:12:15.92,0:12:18.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on a single ugabooga test so I did
Dialogue: 0,0:12:18.72,0:12:20.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,another one This time I wanted to
Dialogue: 0,0:12:20.64,0:12:23.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,measure how much energy it takes to give
Dialogue: 0,0:12:23.60,0:12:26.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,one arm of slack To make things as equal
Dialogue: 0,0:12:26.96,0:12:30.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as possible for the gri I used a tiny
Dialogue: 0,0:12:30.16,0:12:32.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tiny carabiner This way the amount of
Dialogue: 0,0:12:32.80,0:12:35.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope pulled through all the devices is
Dialogue: 0,0:12:35.60,0:12:38.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,very similar And then I used a small
Dialogue: 0,0:12:38.08,0:12:40.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,load cell to measure the forces over
Dialogue: 0,0:12:40.64,0:12:44.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,time which should give me this value
Dialogue: 0,0:12:44.48,0:12:47.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Man this is significantly harder Now as
Dialogue: 0,0:12:47.20,0:12:49.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can imagine having consistency in
Dialogue: 0,0:12:49.44,0:12:52.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,such tests is really difficult That's
Dialogue: 0,0:12:52.64,0:12:56.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,why I needed a lot of samples a lot of
Dialogue: 0,0:12:56.24,0:12:58.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,data points to reach statistically
Dialogue: 0,0:12:58.80,0:13:02.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,significant numbers Wow my shoulder is
Dialogue: 0,0:13:02.08,0:13:05.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,working on this device Also I had an
Dialogue: 0,0:13:05.08,0:13:08.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,unexpected discovery that such way of
Dialogue: 0,0:13:08.16,0:13:11.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,giving and taking slack many many times
Dialogue: 0,0:13:11.20,0:13:14.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,macaroni causes many many tangles in the
Dialogue: 0,0:13:14.72,0:13:18.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope which I had to remove before every
Dialogue: 0,0:13:18.44,0:13:21.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,experiment So yeah new Neos this time
Dialogue: 0,0:13:21.84,0:13:26.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,felt the smoothest and that's a
Dialogue: 0,0:13:27.08,0:13:31.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,difference very closely followed by
Dialogue: 0,0:13:32.44,0:13:37.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Gri and pinch was double the trouble
Dialogue: 0,0:13:37.36,0:13:40.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This feels much
Dialogue: 0,0:13:40.12,0:13:43.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,harder All right next up Now I'm going
Dialogue: 0,0:13:43.52,0:13:47.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to regret this This is 10 mm rope I
Dialogue: 0,0:13:47.76,0:13:50.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,already feel my shoulder from
Dialogue: 0,0:13:50.28,0:13:54.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,9.5 So with 10 mm rope Griggy was hard
Dialogue: 0,0:13:54.96,0:13:56.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to
Dialogue: 0,0:13:56.04,0:13:59.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,use Definitely
Dialogue: 0,0:13:59.64,0:14:05.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,usable Not easy though but
Dialogue: 0,0:14:05.16,0:14:08.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,usable But pinch was another level Let's
Dialogue: 0,0:14:08.80,0:14:10.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,see how this
Dialogue: 0,0:14:10.44,0:14:14.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,goes Oh yeah
Dialogue: 0,0:14:19.20,0:14:22.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's an actual workout
Dialogue: 0,0:14:22.36,0:14:26.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now However Neox was impressive in a
Dialogue: 0,0:14:26.56,0:14:28.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,good way Okay new
Dialogue: 0,0:14:28.84,0:14:32.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,cre Oh
Dialogue: 0,0:14:32.84,0:14:35.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wow
Dialogue: 0,0:14:36.36,0:14:39.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Okay that's
Dialogue: 0,0:14:40.20,0:14:44.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nice Oh it locks Now taking the slack
Dialogue: 0,0:14:44.88,0:14:48.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,felt really great with pinch There was
Dialogue: 0,0:14:48.00,0:14:51.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no back slip at all However when it
Dialogue: 0,0:14:51.68,0:14:54.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,comes to lowering I had antipanic
Dialogue: 0,0:14:54.64,0:14:58.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,engaging all the time
Dialogue: 0,0:14:58.96,0:15:03.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Wow it's or and yes you can override it
Dialogue: 0,0:15:03.28,0:15:06.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,by pulling the lever even more which
Dialogue: 0,0:15:06.56,0:15:10.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,works well However in certain projecting
Dialogue: 0,0:15:10.48,0:15:12.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,situations when the climbber asks to
Dialogue: 0,0:15:12.64,0:15:16.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lower just a bit and antipanic kicks in
Dialogue: 0,0:15:16.08,0:15:18.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it causes a jarring experience both for
Dialogue: 0,0:15:18.64,0:15:21.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the climbber and for the bare Now good
Dialogue: 0,0:15:21.36,0:15:23.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,part is that you can actually disable
Dialogue: 0,0:15:23.52,0:15:25.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this antipanic feature by inserting a
Dialogue: 0,0:15:25.92,0:15:28.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,little screw that came into the package
Dialogue: 0,0:15:28.64,0:15:32.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And unfortunately for me um I had no
Dialogue: 0,0:15:32.00,0:15:34.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,idea what that screw is when I got the
Dialogue: 0,0:15:34.24,0:15:37.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device and now I have no idea where that
Dialogue: 0,0:15:37.04,0:15:40.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,screw is Moving forward the front of the
Dialogue: 0,0:15:40.72,0:15:43.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pinch has a steel insert So if you let
Dialogue: 0,0:15:43.52,0:15:46.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope run through that it should make
Dialogue: 0,0:15:46.00,0:15:48.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the device last much longer unlike the
Dialogue: 0,0:15:48.80,0:15:51.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Grig where it develops grooves over the
Dialogue: 0,0:15:51.12,0:15:53.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,edge It should also provide more control
Dialogue: 0,0:15:53.76,0:15:56.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in lowering with skinnier ropes However
Dialogue: 0,0:15:56.96,0:16:00.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from my testing I could barely feel a
Dialogue: 0,0:16:00.04,0:16:03.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,difference So this steel insert is a
Dialogue: 0,0:16:03.20,0:16:05.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nice addition However I do slightly
Dialogue: 0,0:16:05.68,0:16:07.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,prefer having my hand on the side when
Dialogue: 0,0:16:07.84,0:16:11.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lowering So I would prefer having steel
Dialogue: 0,0:16:11.12,0:16:14.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the side like Gri Plus has and maybe
Dialogue: 0,0:16:14.24,0:16:17.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a little bit less when in the front to
Dialogue: 0,0:16:17.28,0:16:20.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have less weight All right next
Dialogue: 0,0:16:20.00,0:16:24.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,experiment Ready yeah
Dialogue: 0,0:16:28.16,0:16:31.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I mean done So I have done a bunch of
Dialogue: 0,0:16:31.92,0:16:34.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,these tests with Gri in the past and it
Dialogue: 0,0:16:34.56,0:16:37.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pretty much imitates of what happens if
Dialogue: 0,0:16:37.12,0:16:39.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you don't hold the rope and there was no
Dialogue: 0,0:16:39.84,0:16:42.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slack in the system in the beginning
Dialogue: 0,0:16:42.24,0:16:44.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Basically first attempt and it already
Dialogue: 0,0:16:44.60,0:16:47.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slipped
Dialogue: 0,0:16:47.96,0:16:51.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and nothing Just for comparison let's
Dialogue: 0,0:16:51.04,0:16:53.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,compare against Gri And then let's
Dialogue: 0,0:16:53.12,0:16:55.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,compare against
Dialogue: 0,0:16:55.16,0:16:57.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Gri Ah I need a
Dialogue: 0,0:16:57.72,0:17:01.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,carabiner Ah see how great the pinch is
Dialogue: 0,0:17:01.04,0:17:04.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You don't even need a carabiner Oh yes
Dialogue: 0,0:17:04.08,0:17:06.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Swing it so it falls straight on my head
Dialogue: 0,0:17:06.40,0:17:11.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and kills me And this is gri
Dialogue: 0,0:17:17.04,0:17:19.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Yeah I've done this in the past a lot A
Dialogue: 0,0:17:19.84,0:17:22.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lot a lot And it's possible to make it
Dialogue: 0,0:17:22.72,0:17:25.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,completely slip
Dialogue: 0,0:17:26.12,0:17:29.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but way
Dialogue: 0,0:17:29.08,0:17:31.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,harder Okay just
Dialogue: 0,0:17:31.96,0:17:37.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for sake of comparison this is
Dialogue: 0,0:17:40.44,0:17:43.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,criy Some people asked why it's why I
Dialogue: 0,0:17:43.52,0:17:47.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,call it creek Let's go
Dialogue: 0,0:17:48.64,0:17:51.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I think this is even worse than pinch It
Dialogue: 0,0:17:51.76,0:17:55.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,seemed like it's falling much
Dialogue: 0,0:17:59.32,0:18:02.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,faster
Dialogue: 0,0:18:02.36,0:18:06.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Yes This is definitely more sketchy Now
Dialogue: 0,0:18:06.00,0:18:08.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,every time I do these tests someone will
Dialogue: 0,0:18:08.24,0:18:11.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,complain that I'm using too low weights
Dialogue: 0,0:18:11.28,0:18:13.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But I have already explained in my
Dialogue: 0,0:18:13.52,0:18:16.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,physics of Griggree video how friction
Dialogue: 0,0:18:16.16,0:18:19.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,affects the forces So I highly recommend
Dialogue: 0,0:18:19.36,0:18:21.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to watch that video But long story short
Dialogue: 0,0:18:21.92,0:18:24.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with enough friction your climbber
Dialogue: 0,0:18:24.64,0:18:27.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,becomes very light Let's maybe try with
Dialogue: 0,0:18:27.60,0:18:29.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,more weight because there's always
Dialogue: 0,0:18:29.60,0:18:32.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,people complaining about me using low
Dialogue: 0,0:18:32.36,0:18:36.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,weights Oh sheesh
Dialogue: 0,0:18:36.32,0:18:39.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's not going to kill
Dialogue: 0,0:18:46.68,0:18:49.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,me I guess I'm not going to try that
Dialogue: 0,0:18:49.20,0:18:51.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with
Dialogue: 0,0:18:51.56,0:18:57.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Neox Or should I you should I
Dialogue: 0,0:18:57.00,0:19:02.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,should [ __ ] Now it's a bit sketchy
Dialogue: 0,0:19:04.48,0:19:06.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Okay this is
Dialogue: 0,0:19:06.36,0:19:08.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,definitely much more
Dialogue: 0,0:19:08.76,0:19:11.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sketchy So when it comes to this test
Dialogue: 0,0:19:11.60,0:19:14.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Griggy was the safest followed by pinch
Dialogue: 0,0:19:14.48,0:19:18.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and Neox was the most likely to slip So
Dialogue: 0,0:19:18.16,0:19:21.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I got a comment that catches with pinch
Dialogue: 0,0:19:21.60,0:19:24.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,felt harder than catches with gri So
Dialogue: 0,0:19:24.32,0:19:26.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what I'm going to try is to measure the
Dialogue: 0,0:19:26.64,0:19:30.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,forces I am a bit skeptical about this I
Dialogue: 0,0:19:30.32,0:19:32.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mean when Gri catches there is the
Dialogue: 0,0:19:32.80,0:19:35.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,carabiner which moves up so maybe that
Dialogue: 0,0:19:35.92,0:19:38.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,plays a role
Dialogue: 0,0:19:38.60,0:19:41.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Three
Dialogue: 0,0:19:42.60,0:19:46.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,four Okay
Dialogue: 0,0:19:51.40,0:19:54.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,077
Dialogue: 0,0:19:54.04,0:19:57.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,3
Dialogue: 0,0:20:00.04,0:20:05.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,4 6 Exactly the
Dialogue: 0,0:20:07.80,0:20:09.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,same
Dialogue: 0,0:20:09.56,0:20:12.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,68 So I'm getting consistent results
Dialogue: 0,0:20:12.72,0:20:14.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's not even like that It's
Dialogue: 0,0:20:14.48,0:20:17.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,progressively loading It's just
Dialogue: 0,0:20:17.88,0:20:20.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,goes The only difference would be if
Dialogue: 0,0:20:20.88,0:20:22.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there would be different slippage in the
Dialogue: 0,0:20:22.72,0:20:24.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device But both of these devices seem to
Dialogue: 0,0:20:24.96,0:20:27.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have similar slippage which is very
Dialogue: 0,0:20:27.28,0:20:28.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,little
Dialogue: 0,0:20:28.68,0:20:33.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So equal However what should play more
Dialogue: 0,0:20:33.28,0:20:37.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of a bigger effect is doing a proper
Dialogue: 0,0:20:37.36,0:20:39.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,soft catch It's a bit silly to even try
Dialogue: 0,0:20:39.76,0:20:42.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on this uh test setup but let's see if I
Dialogue: 0,0:20:42.88,0:20:45.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,can do
Dialogue: 0,0:20:46.44,0:20:49.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,anything Half
Dialogue: 0,0:20:49.00,0:20:52.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,035 compared to the previous one So
Dialogue: 0,0:20:52.64,0:20:54.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's a good illustration how soft
Dialogue: 0,0:20:54.72,0:20:57.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,catch plays a much bigger role And
Dialogue: 0,0:20:57.60,0:20:59.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,actually my next video is going to be
Dialogue: 0,0:20:59.24,0:21:02.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,about soft catches and catching falls
Dialogue: 0,0:21:02.24,0:21:06.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for my blay master class So stay tuned
Dialogue: 0,0:21:06.16,0:21:08.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right So
Dialogue: 0,0:21:08.52,0:21:11.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,takeaways grigree is definitely smoother
Dialogue: 0,0:21:11.68,0:21:14.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to pull the rope through However this is
Dialogue: 0,0:21:14.56,0:21:17.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,only noticeable on thicker ropes like
Dialogue: 0,0:21:17.04,0:21:21.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,9.5 or above or some older fuzzier ropes
Dialogue: 0,0:21:21.44,0:21:24.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now if you bellayed in the past with gri
Dialogue: 0,0:21:24.08,0:21:27.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you like this index finger hooking
Dialogue: 0,0:21:27.44,0:21:31.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the lip to pay with slack by gri stay
Dialogue: 0,0:21:31.12,0:21:34.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with gri be happy with gri However if
Dialogue: 0,0:21:34.24,0:21:36.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're not a fan of touching the blaying
Dialogue: 0,0:21:36.08,0:21:39.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device then pinch is definitely an
Dialogue: 0,0:21:39.44,0:21:42.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,amazing alternative for you It works
Dialogue: 0,0:21:42.80,0:21:47.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,surprisingly well Very nice And I would
Dialogue: 0,0:21:47.60,0:21:48.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pick
Dialogue: 0,0:21:48.92,0:21:52.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Neos if I would primarily delay like
Dialogue: 0,0:21:52.60,0:21:56.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this or I would use very very thick
Dialogue: 0,0:21:56.72,0:22:00.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,beefy ropes like 10 mm or above ropes
Dialogue: 0,0:22:00.56,0:22:03.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's only usable with Neox And before we
Dialogue: 0,0:22:03.60,0:22:05.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,finish I wanted to share a story with
Dialogue: 0,0:22:05.60,0:22:08.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you When I was in university I had a
Dialogue: 0,0:22:08.40,0:22:10.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,calculus teacher who was probably one of
Dialogue: 0,0:22:10.80,0:22:13.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the best teachers we had back then there
Dialogue: 0,0:22:13.20,0:22:15.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that teacher worked at a bank at a
Dialogue: 0,0:22:15.52,0:22:17.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,high position in a bank So he was making
Dialogue: 0,0:22:17.92,0:22:20.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,much more money in his bank job than
Dialogue: 0,0:22:20.80,0:22:23.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,teaching us And because of that one day
Dialogue: 0,0:22:23.04,0:22:24.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,somebody asked him like hey what's the
Dialogue: 0,0:22:24.80,0:22:26.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,point for you to come here every year
Dialogue: 0,0:22:26.64,0:22:29.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and teach us when you are already there
Dialogue: 0,0:22:29.52,0:22:33.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in your glamorous life and his answer
Dialogue: 0,0:22:33.68,0:22:35.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,actually stuck to me till this day He
Dialogue: 0,0:22:35.76,0:22:39.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,said well it's an exercise for my brain
Dialogue: 0,0:22:39.68,0:22:42.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I don't want to forget the basics So
Dialogue: 0,0:22:42.08,0:22:44.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah for me that was a very nice message
Dialogue: 0,0:22:44.40,0:22:46.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to never stop learning and that's why
Dialogue: 0,0:22:46.48,0:22:48.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I've been happily using and promoting
Dialogue: 0,0:22:48.48,0:22:51.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the sponsor of today's video Brilliant
Dialogue: 0,0:22:51.04,0:22:52.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Brilliant is a learning app that can
Dialogue: 0,0:22:52.96,0:22:55.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,transform your little downtime moments
Dialogue: 0,0:22:55.60,0:22:57.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,into learning opportunities It has
Dialogue: 0,0:22:57.92,0:23:00.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thousands of short and fun lessons in
Dialogue: 0,0:23:00.48,0:23:03.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,math science programming data analysis
Dialogue: 0,0:23:03.60,0:23:06.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and AI And speaking of AI one might
Dialogue: 0,0:23:06.32,0:23:08.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,think what's the point of even learning
Dialogue: 0,0:23:08.08,0:23:10.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,these basic math skills then we have
Dialogue: 0,0:23:10.32,0:23:13.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Chad Gypt who can spit even complicated
Dialogue: 0,0:23:13.52,0:23:16.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,answers to us However to that my answer
Dialogue: 0,0:23:16.08,0:23:19.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is how are you going to know if the
Dialogue: 0,0:23:19.04,0:23:21.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,answer you got from Chad GPT actually
Dialogue: 0,0:23:21.60,0:23:24.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,makes sense and then what's the point of
Dialogue: 0,0:23:24.56,0:23:26.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,view if you cannot distinguish sense
Dialogue: 0,0:23:26.64,0:23:29.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from nonsense So Brilliant helps to
Dialogue: 0,0:23:29.20,0:23:31.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,build your critical thinking through
Dialogue: 0,0:23:31.20,0:23:33.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,problem solving and not memorizing which
Dialogue: 0,0:23:33.84,0:23:35.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is way more effective than simply
Dialogue: 0,0:23:35.76,0:23:37.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,watching lectures It has nicely
Dialogue: 0,0:23:37.92,0:23:40.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,structured courses crafted by worldclass
Dialogue: 0,0:23:40.96,0:23:43.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,teachers that always start from the
Dialogue: 0,0:23:43.36,0:23:46.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,basics so you never get lost So yeah a
Dialogue: 0,0:23:46.56,0:23:48.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fun way of learning that I've been
Dialogue: 0,0:23:48.00,0:23:50.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,really enjoying that you can try for
Dialogue: 0,0:23:50.24,0:23:53.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,free for 30 days by visiting
Dialogue: 0,0:23:53.00,0:23:55.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,brilliant.org/hardis easy or click that
Dialogue: 0,0:23:55.76,0:23:57.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There's also a link in the description
Dialogue: 0,0:23:57.76,0:24:00.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you will also get 20% off their
Dialogue: 0,0:24:00.56,0:24:04.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,annual premium subscription So thank you
Dialogue: 0,0:24:04.00,0:24:09.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for being curious Enjoy climbing then