WEBVTT

00:00:00.240 --> 00:00:04.040
so it looks like Griggree works like

00:00:04.040 --> 00:00:08.320
Gri like Gri So let's do some of those

00:00:08.320 --> 00:00:11.120
strange experiments and figure out if it

00:00:11.120 --> 00:00:14.240
is a Grigree And to make things complete

00:00:14.240 --> 00:00:16.560
I will also include Neox into the mix

00:00:16.560 --> 00:00:18.960
also known as Gri And in case you want a

00:00:18.960 --> 00:00:21.520
TLDDR version when it comes to cam

00:00:21.520 --> 00:00:23.920
assisted devices Pinch is probably the

00:00:23.920 --> 00:00:26.000
best alternative to Gri right now And if

00:00:26.000 --> 00:00:27.599
you want to know if it is better than

00:00:27.599 --> 00:00:30.560
Gri then the answer is not that simple

00:00:30.560 --> 00:00:34.079
So let's see All right So the only truly

00:00:34.079 --> 00:00:36.239
unique feature of this device is that

00:00:36.239 --> 00:00:38.160
you can attach it directly to the

00:00:38.160 --> 00:00:40.239
harness without the need of extra

00:00:40.239 --> 00:00:42.640
carabiner which I thought it's a super

00:00:42.640 --> 00:00:45.200
cool idea However what everybody

00:00:45.200 --> 00:00:47.680
instantly notices that this button which

00:00:47.680 --> 00:00:50.719
releases the device is not multi-action

00:00:50.719 --> 00:00:53.360
So it's pretty easy to press on it and

00:00:53.360 --> 00:00:56.079
remove the device So the question is can

00:00:56.079 --> 00:00:59.359
that happen during the blaying and Edid

00:00:59.359 --> 00:01:02.239
got bombarded by this question Oh yeah I

00:01:02.239 --> 00:01:04.479
don't know how often I saw this and

00:01:04.479 --> 00:01:06.960
honestly I was quite surprised that this

00:01:06.960 --> 00:01:09.439
is the first thing people think of and

00:01:09.439 --> 00:01:11.920
also with what passive aggressive

00:01:11.920 --> 00:01:14.560
criticism this gets So yeah if you worry

00:01:14.560 --> 00:01:17.400
about safety you are passive

00:01:17.400 --> 00:01:20.000
aggressive But since my name got there

00:01:20.000 --> 00:01:23.119
somehow I feel I have a duty now So to

00:01:23.119 --> 00:01:25.759
investigate this let's divide it into

00:01:25.759 --> 00:01:28.400
four possible states First when the

00:01:28.400 --> 00:01:30.880
device is loaded then the device is

00:01:30.880 --> 00:01:33.200
unloaded and the transition between

00:01:33.200 --> 00:01:35.200
these two states So let's begin with

00:01:35.200 --> 00:01:37.439
unloaded scenario And let's see what

00:01:37.439 --> 00:01:40.159
Ederlid has to say about that Could I

00:01:40.159 --> 00:01:42.159
accidentally open the device in an

00:01:42.159 --> 00:01:44.079
unloaded scenario and the answer to this

00:01:44.079 --> 00:01:47.119
is no It is simply impossible when you

00:01:47.119 --> 00:01:49.520
are attentive and you operate the device

00:01:49.520 --> 00:01:51.840
as shown in the user's manual So

00:01:51.840 --> 00:01:54.720
understood Read the friendly manual and

00:01:54.720 --> 00:01:58.159
then it's safe But um yeah before Phil

00:01:58.159 --> 00:02:00.479
starts hating me let's look into this

00:02:00.479 --> 00:02:02.960
deeper So there is actually only one

00:02:02.960 --> 00:02:05.439
spot where I can press the button It's

00:02:05.439 --> 00:02:07.920
right here If I start pressing somewhere

00:02:07.920 --> 00:02:10.720
else nothing happens And this button is

00:02:10.720 --> 00:02:13.280
nicely flush with the plastic round So

00:02:13.280 --> 00:02:16.640
pressing from the sides nothing happens

00:02:16.640 --> 00:02:19.280
Plus the button has pretty stiff spring

00:02:19.280 --> 00:02:22.319
You need to press it quite hard to open

00:02:22.319 --> 00:02:24.800
If the device is unloaded and I would

00:02:24.800 --> 00:02:27.120
try to press the button I'm simply going

00:02:27.120 --> 00:02:29.680
to push the device to the side and

00:02:29.680 --> 00:02:32.160
nothing is going to happen Even if I try

00:02:32.160 --> 00:02:39.360
to poke it really hard Ow ow ow ow ow So

00:02:39.360 --> 00:02:42.239
the only way I can imagine pressing that

00:02:42.239 --> 00:02:45.280
button in unloaded scenario is if I

00:02:45.280 --> 00:02:47.440
would I don't know get knocked by the

00:02:47.440 --> 00:02:50.400
rock fall on the ground and somehow

00:02:50.400 --> 00:02:52.319
press on that button and release the

00:02:52.319 --> 00:02:56.599
device How likely for that is to

00:02:56.599 --> 00:02:59.519
happen probably not very okay Next

00:02:59.519 --> 00:03:02.640
scenario The device is loaded Well I'm

00:03:02.640 --> 00:03:05.879
trying to load it now I can press the

00:03:05.879 --> 00:03:11.519
button Okay But I cannot open the

00:03:12.599 --> 00:03:14.120
device

00:03:14.120 --> 00:03:17.840
Well apparently I

00:03:18.760 --> 00:03:22.239
can That was not planned That was first

00:03:22.239 --> 00:03:26.319
attempt Ah okay See what happens And I

00:03:26.319 --> 00:03:28.879
was pulling down on the brake strand

00:03:28.879 --> 00:03:32.400
really hard and then it got loaded But

00:03:32.400 --> 00:03:36.640
it got loaded in this downwards facing

00:03:36.640 --> 00:03:40.080
direction and then somehow by pushing on

00:03:40.080 --> 00:03:43.040
the button I managed to slip the sling a

00:03:43.040 --> 00:03:46.799
little bit and now I can open it

00:03:46.799 --> 00:03:50.239
Normally if the load is really high

00:03:50.239 --> 00:03:52.560
probably I would not be able to pull the

00:03:52.560 --> 00:03:55.120
device down as much and then in this

00:03:55.120 --> 00:03:57.519
scenario if I press the button and I

00:03:57.519 --> 00:04:00.799
would try to open it it would not open

00:04:00.799 --> 00:04:03.040
because there is this little extra lip

00:04:03.040 --> 00:04:05.760
which is hooking on the blay loop So

00:04:05.760 --> 00:04:07.680
here is actually a good moment to talk

00:04:07.680 --> 00:04:10.640
that there is a limit on blay loop width

00:04:10.640 --> 00:04:13.040
If it's too wide it's not good cuz

00:04:13.040 --> 00:04:15.360
device will sit sideways But if it's

00:04:15.360 --> 00:04:17.519
very skinny like the one that I have

00:04:17.519 --> 00:04:20.239
right now then it's more likely that the

00:04:20.239 --> 00:04:22.600
loop could sit in some strange

00:04:22.600 --> 00:04:25.280
orientation So I would be more cautious

00:04:25.280 --> 00:04:27.440
with super skinny harnesses like this

00:04:27.440 --> 00:04:31.360
one Now what if the device is loaded I

00:04:31.360 --> 00:04:33.759
press the button and in that moment

00:04:33.759 --> 00:04:37.280
somehow it would unload Could it uncip

00:04:37.280 --> 00:04:40.600
at this moment

00:04:40.600 --> 00:04:44.320
well I wouldn't say no but at the same

00:04:44.320 --> 00:04:47.680
time it's very very unlikely So yeah

00:04:47.680 --> 00:04:49.759
personally with this super skinny ble

00:04:49.759 --> 00:04:52.080
loop I was using this device with a

00:04:52.080 --> 00:04:54.479
backup carabiner maybe a thicker blay

00:04:54.479 --> 00:04:57.520
loops my monkey brain would be happier

00:04:57.520 --> 00:05:00.240
However I'm certain that if this button

00:05:00.240 --> 00:05:02.320
would be double action then I would be

00:05:02.320 --> 00:05:05.840
much happier Also this direct attachment

00:05:05.840 --> 00:05:07.840
to the harness requires a little bit

00:05:07.840 --> 00:05:10.400
more attention I had a viewer of mine

00:05:10.400 --> 00:05:13.120
send me a picture where he accidentally

00:05:13.120 --> 00:05:16.960
clipped like this which I can see how

00:05:16.960 --> 00:05:19.360
that can happen quite easily where the

00:05:19.360 --> 00:05:23.600
rope runs like so Also if you don't pay

00:05:23.600 --> 00:05:25.600
attention and you have very skinny ble

00:05:25.600 --> 00:05:28.680
loop you can accidentally close it like

00:05:28.680 --> 00:05:31.680
so And you might not notice this And

00:05:31.680 --> 00:05:34.240
this is very dangerous because it can

00:05:34.240 --> 00:05:37.600
easily open So yeah pay attention and do

00:05:37.600 --> 00:05:39.039
the double check before you start

00:05:39.039 --> 00:05:41.600
climbing always Alternatively you of

00:05:41.600 --> 00:05:43.360
course have an option to attach it with

00:05:43.360 --> 00:05:46.080
the carabiner like any other blay device

00:05:46.080 --> 00:05:49.039
However in this case pinch sits really

00:05:49.039 --> 00:05:51.120
far from the harness cuz it actually has

00:05:51.120 --> 00:05:53.759
this lip which is longer than on most of

00:05:53.759 --> 00:05:55.919
blaying devices and it becomes really

00:05:55.919 --> 00:05:57.840
uncomfortable to use and it kind of

00:05:57.840 --> 00:06:01.360
defeats the main benefit of pinch

00:06:01.360 --> 00:06:04.160
So yeah All right Now before we go to

00:06:04.160 --> 00:06:06.880
actual benefits of direct attachment to

00:06:06.880 --> 00:06:10.080
the harness let me first debunk one kind

00:06:10.080 --> 00:06:13.919
of myth Now that you can give more slack

00:06:13.919 --> 00:06:16.199
this way when the device is close to the

00:06:16.199 --> 00:06:19.199
harness This is actually the opposite So

00:06:19.199 --> 00:06:21.440
if I have a grigree and I give slack

00:06:21.440 --> 00:06:23.919
like this Yes now I can give a little

00:06:23.919 --> 00:06:27.280
bit less slack But guess what i can push

00:06:27.280 --> 00:06:32.000
gri down giving much more slack So I

00:06:32.000 --> 00:06:35.199
pull the rope and push the device down

00:06:35.199 --> 00:06:37.440
This is actually a very cool technique

00:06:37.440 --> 00:06:40.960
for short climbers or short arm

00:06:40.960 --> 00:06:43.440
bellayers And before my comment section

00:06:43.440 --> 00:06:45.759
explodes I have to say that there is

00:06:45.759 --> 00:06:48.360
multiple ways to give slack You can do

00:06:48.360 --> 00:06:52.800
this you can do that And I'm not here to

00:06:52.800 --> 00:06:54.960
debate which method is the best the

00:06:54.960 --> 00:06:57.360
safest However I will compare every

00:06:57.360 --> 00:06:59.280
device in all of these methods So no

00:06:59.280 --> 00:07:02.319
matter what you use or what you like you

00:07:02.319 --> 00:07:04.000
will know which device is the best for

00:07:04.000 --> 00:07:06.960
you So back to the pinch directly

00:07:06.960 --> 00:07:09.120
attached to the harness And the main

00:07:09.120 --> 00:07:11.360
benefit of that is that it's closer to

00:07:11.360 --> 00:07:14.080
the harness is less floppy around And

00:07:14.080 --> 00:07:16.240
when it falls down it does not fall as

00:07:16.240 --> 00:07:19.120
much down So it makes it much easier to

00:07:19.120 --> 00:07:22.160
find blindly with your hands And this

00:07:22.160 --> 00:07:24.240
brings me to the first mistake where I

00:07:24.240 --> 00:07:27.440
try to use pinch like I would use gri

00:07:27.440 --> 00:07:29.520
where I would take my index finger and

00:07:29.520 --> 00:07:32.639
hook under this lip and give slack like

00:07:32.639 --> 00:07:35.440
this However you quickly realize that

00:07:35.440 --> 00:07:38.080
this lip is way too small and it's not

00:07:38.080 --> 00:07:40.319
comfortable to hook with index finger

00:07:40.319 --> 00:07:42.960
Then I started grabbing with my thumb

00:07:42.960 --> 00:07:45.680
around like this And actually this is

00:07:45.680 --> 00:07:48.080
not how pinch is supposed to be bellayed

00:07:48.080 --> 00:07:50.240
So with pinch you're supposed to have

00:07:50.240 --> 00:07:52.400
all your fingers wrapped around the rope

00:07:52.400 --> 00:07:55.199
and use only the thumb to gently press

00:07:55.199 --> 00:07:57.919
on the cam and give slack like this And

00:07:57.919 --> 00:08:00.639
this works really really well So

00:08:00.639 --> 00:08:03.199
objectively thinking four fingers is

00:08:03.199 --> 00:08:06.160
more than three And it also encourages

00:08:06.160 --> 00:08:08.960
you to not touch the device when you

00:08:08.960 --> 00:08:11.840
don't need it So it must be a little bit

00:08:11.840 --> 00:08:14.560
safer While on contrast with Gri if I

00:08:14.560 --> 00:08:17.840
hook my finger here and I relax too much

00:08:17.840 --> 00:08:20.319
I might not actually hold the rope at

00:08:20.319 --> 00:08:22.720
all And I already made a video of what

00:08:22.720 --> 00:08:26.680
can happen in that scenario

00:08:28.479 --> 00:08:31.039
So don't get too lazy and actually hold

00:08:31.039 --> 00:08:33.279
the rope especially with super skinny

00:08:33.279 --> 00:08:35.519
ropes All right So how does the pinch

00:08:35.519 --> 00:08:38.080
work in practice the first thing I

00:08:38.080 --> 00:08:40.880
noticed that it pinch is pretty heavy

00:08:40.880 --> 00:08:43.039
and it's front heavy because it has a

00:08:43.039 --> 00:08:45.200
steel insert in the front So after you

00:08:45.200 --> 00:08:48.560
give slack it will fall down It does not

00:08:48.560 --> 00:08:51.279
fall down as much as the giri cuz it's

00:08:51.279 --> 00:08:53.519
closer to the harness but it does fall

00:08:53.519 --> 00:08:55.920
down and there is no way to stop that

00:08:55.920 --> 00:08:58.240
cuz you're not supposed to be hooking on

00:08:58.240 --> 00:09:00.959
it So every time you give slack it falls

00:09:00.959 --> 00:09:02.959
down and then you have to blindly find

00:09:02.959 --> 00:09:05.200
the rope again and give slack So at

00:09:05.200 --> 00:09:07.760
first this was kind of uncomfortable but

00:09:07.760 --> 00:09:09.920
I thought that the longer I will use it

00:09:09.920 --> 00:09:11.760
the more I will get used to it and

00:09:11.760 --> 00:09:14.000
eventually it's going to be fine And

00:09:14.000 --> 00:09:16.240
after using it for quite a while

00:09:16.240 --> 00:09:18.240
delaying my partners projecting

00:09:18.240 --> 00:09:20.000
different routes eventually I kind of

00:09:20.000 --> 00:09:22.880
got used to this However the first time

00:09:22.880 --> 00:09:25.839
I switched back to Griggi I instantly

00:09:25.839 --> 00:09:28.640
felt how much easier it is to give slack

00:09:28.640 --> 00:09:31.279
for me Then you give slack like this and

00:09:31.279 --> 00:09:34.959
the device doesn't fall anywhere at all

00:09:34.959 --> 00:09:37.440
So the first takeaway if you are a

00:09:37.440 --> 00:09:40.080
Grigree user and you like giving slack

00:09:40.080 --> 00:09:43.839
like this stay with Griggree If you're

00:09:43.839 --> 00:09:46.399
someone who doesn't like this idea of

00:09:46.399 --> 00:09:49.200
having hands close to Blay device then

00:09:49.200 --> 00:09:52.080
pinch is much better option Now in case

00:09:52.080 --> 00:09:54.320
you like giving slack like this in a

00:09:54.320 --> 00:09:55.399
tube

00:09:55.399 --> 00:09:58.800
style style then I actually tested all

00:09:58.800 --> 00:10:00.560
the devices with different rope

00:10:00.560 --> 00:10:02.720
thicknesses We have skinny ropes it

00:10:02.720 --> 00:10:05.040
doesn't matter All the devices work very

00:10:05.040 --> 00:10:06.880
well with skinny ropes Once the ropes

00:10:06.880 --> 00:10:09.399
get slightly thicker to like

00:10:09.399 --> 00:10:13.040
9.5 then Gri becomes unreliable It

00:10:13.040 --> 00:10:16.079
starts locking up too much While pinch

00:10:16.079 --> 00:10:18.720
was working really well However the king

00:10:18.720 --> 00:10:21.680
of the hill was Neox cuz it's pretty

00:10:21.680 --> 00:10:24.399
much designed to be blayed like this

00:10:24.399 --> 00:10:26.720
It's incredibly smooth Even with the

00:10:26.720 --> 00:10:30.000
ropes up to like 10 mm it's still super

00:10:30.000 --> 00:10:32.880
smooth So if that's how you blay then

00:10:32.880 --> 00:10:36.880
Nox is your best blay device Okay Now

00:10:36.880 --> 00:10:39.920
one thing that I did not like about the

00:10:39.920 --> 00:10:42.560
pinch that it felt that it takes more

00:10:42.560 --> 00:10:45.440
effort to pull the rope through I asked

00:10:45.440 --> 00:10:47.600
you guys and some of you said that

00:10:47.600 --> 00:10:50.560
actually pinch is much smoother than gri

00:10:50.560 --> 00:10:52.480
However others said that pulling the

00:10:52.480 --> 00:10:54.399
rope through pinch feels like doing

00:10:54.399 --> 00:10:57.279
chores So first I wanted to measure how

00:10:57.279 --> 00:11:00.640
much internal friction each device has I

00:11:00.640 --> 00:11:03.040
kept adding weights and checking when

00:11:03.040 --> 00:11:06.000
the rope started to slip First

00:11:06.000 --> 00:11:09.040
observation was that my old grigy had

00:11:09.040 --> 00:11:11.360
slightly lower friction compared to

00:11:11.360 --> 00:11:13.440
brand new one This is probably due to

00:11:13.440 --> 00:11:16.160
smoothening and rounded edges and I

00:11:16.160 --> 00:11:18.880
should probably retire this gri already

00:11:18.880 --> 00:11:21.680
and pinch depending on the rope had up

00:11:21.680 --> 00:11:25.279
to 30% more friction compared to a brand

00:11:25.279 --> 00:11:27.760
new Griggree Now I was expecting that

00:11:27.760 --> 00:11:30.959
Neox will beat all of these devices

00:11:30.959 --> 00:11:33.920
However that is surprising Turns out

00:11:33.920 --> 00:11:37.040
that my Neox had so much dust that the

00:11:37.040 --> 00:11:40.240
wheel does not spin as smooth as it used

00:11:40.240 --> 00:11:44.000
to So I did buy a new Neox nice black

00:11:44.000 --> 00:11:47.640
one I like it And it is actually

00:11:47.640 --> 00:11:52.880
significantly smoother It's crazy

00:11:57.959 --> 00:12:01.600
smooth So I contacted Pzel and asked how

00:12:01.600 --> 00:12:04.800
to clean my old Neox And once I get a

00:12:04.800 --> 00:12:07.480
response I will try and see if cleaning

00:12:07.480 --> 00:12:11.000
helps or actually Neox's have some dirty

00:12:11.000 --> 00:12:13.440
issues So I'm going to make a separate

00:12:13.440 --> 00:12:15.920
video on that Now I did not want to rely

00:12:15.920 --> 00:12:18.720
on a single ugabooga test so I did

00:12:18.720 --> 00:12:20.639
another one This time I wanted to

00:12:20.639 --> 00:12:23.600
measure how much energy it takes to give

00:12:23.600 --> 00:12:26.959
one arm of slack To make things as equal

00:12:26.959 --> 00:12:30.160
as possible for the gri I used a tiny

00:12:30.160 --> 00:12:32.800
tiny carabiner This way the amount of

00:12:32.800 --> 00:12:35.600
rope pulled through all the devices is

00:12:35.600 --> 00:12:38.079
very similar And then I used a small

00:12:38.079 --> 00:12:40.639
load cell to measure the forces over

00:12:40.639 --> 00:12:44.480
time which should give me this value

00:12:44.480 --> 00:12:47.200
Man this is significantly harder Now as

00:12:47.200 --> 00:12:49.440
you can imagine having consistency in

00:12:49.440 --> 00:12:52.639
such tests is really difficult That's

00:12:52.639 --> 00:12:56.240
why I needed a lot of samples a lot of

00:12:56.240 --> 00:12:58.800
data points to reach statistically

00:12:58.800 --> 00:13:02.079
significant numbers Wow my shoulder is

00:13:02.079 --> 00:13:05.079
working on this device Also I had an

00:13:05.079 --> 00:13:08.160
unexpected discovery that such way of

00:13:08.160 --> 00:13:11.200
giving and taking slack many many times

00:13:11.200 --> 00:13:14.720
macaroni causes many many tangles in the

00:13:14.720 --> 00:13:18.440
rope which I had to remove before every

00:13:18.440 --> 00:13:21.839
experiment So yeah new Neos this time

00:13:21.839 --> 00:13:26.800
felt the smoothest and that's a

00:13:27.079 --> 00:13:31.920
difference very closely followed by

00:13:32.440 --> 00:13:37.360
Gri and pinch was double the trouble

00:13:37.360 --> 00:13:40.120
This feels much

00:13:40.120 --> 00:13:43.519
harder All right next up Now I'm going

00:13:43.519 --> 00:13:47.760
to regret this This is 10 mm rope I

00:13:47.760 --> 00:13:50.279
already feel my shoulder from

00:13:50.279 --> 00:13:54.959
9.5 So with 10 mm rope Griggy was hard

00:13:54.959 --> 00:13:56.040
to

00:13:56.040 --> 00:13:59.639
use Definitely

00:13:59.639 --> 00:14:05.160
usable Not easy though but

00:14:05.160 --> 00:14:08.800
usable But pinch was another level Let's

00:14:08.800 --> 00:14:10.440
see how this

00:14:10.440 --> 00:14:14.920
goes Oh yeah

00:14:19.199 --> 00:14:22.360
It's an actual workout

00:14:22.360 --> 00:14:26.560
now However Neox was impressive in a

00:14:26.560 --> 00:14:28.839
good way Okay new

00:14:28.839 --> 00:14:32.399
cre Oh

00:14:32.839 --> 00:14:35.839
wow

00:14:36.360 --> 00:14:39.760
Okay that's

00:14:40.199 --> 00:14:44.880
nice Oh it locks Now taking the slack

00:14:44.880 --> 00:14:48.000
felt really great with pinch There was

00:14:48.000 --> 00:14:51.680
no back slip at all However when it

00:14:51.680 --> 00:14:54.639
comes to lowering I had antipanic

00:14:54.639 --> 00:14:58.959
engaging all the time

00:14:58.959 --> 00:15:03.279
Wow it's or and yes you can override it

00:15:03.279 --> 00:15:06.560
by pulling the lever even more which

00:15:06.560 --> 00:15:10.480
works well However in certain projecting

00:15:10.480 --> 00:15:12.639
situations when the climbber asks to

00:15:12.639 --> 00:15:16.079
lower just a bit and antipanic kicks in

00:15:16.079 --> 00:15:18.639
it causes a jarring experience both for

00:15:18.639 --> 00:15:21.360
the climbber and for the bare Now good

00:15:21.360 --> 00:15:23.519
part is that you can actually disable

00:15:23.519 --> 00:15:25.920
this antipanic feature by inserting a

00:15:25.920 --> 00:15:28.639
little screw that came into the package

00:15:28.639 --> 00:15:32.000
And unfortunately for me um I had no

00:15:32.000 --> 00:15:34.240
idea what that screw is when I got the

00:15:34.240 --> 00:15:37.040
device and now I have no idea where that

00:15:37.040 --> 00:15:40.720
screw is Moving forward the front of the

00:15:40.720 --> 00:15:43.519
pinch has a steel insert So if you let

00:15:43.519 --> 00:15:46.000
the rope run through that it should make

00:15:46.000 --> 00:15:48.800
the device last much longer unlike the

00:15:48.800 --> 00:15:51.120
Grig where it develops grooves over the

00:15:51.120 --> 00:15:53.759
edge It should also provide more control

00:15:53.759 --> 00:15:56.959
in lowering with skinnier ropes However

00:15:56.959 --> 00:16:00.040
from my testing I could barely feel a

00:16:00.040 --> 00:16:03.199
difference So this steel insert is a

00:16:03.199 --> 00:16:05.680
nice addition However I do slightly

00:16:05.680 --> 00:16:07.839
prefer having my hand on the side when

00:16:07.839 --> 00:16:11.120
lowering So I would prefer having steel

00:16:11.120 --> 00:16:14.240
on the side like Gri Plus has and maybe

00:16:14.240 --> 00:16:17.279
a little bit less when in the front to

00:16:17.279 --> 00:16:20.000
have less weight All right next

00:16:20.000 --> 00:16:24.360
experiment Ready yeah

00:16:28.160 --> 00:16:31.920
I mean done So I have done a bunch of

00:16:31.920 --> 00:16:34.560
these tests with Gri in the past and it

00:16:34.560 --> 00:16:37.120
pretty much imitates of what happens if

00:16:37.120 --> 00:16:39.839
you don't hold the rope and there was no

00:16:39.839 --> 00:16:42.240
slack in the system in the beginning

00:16:42.240 --> 00:16:44.600
Basically first attempt and it already

00:16:44.600 --> 00:16:47.600
slipped

00:16:47.959 --> 00:16:51.040
and nothing Just for comparison let's

00:16:51.040 --> 00:16:53.120
compare against Gri And then let's

00:16:53.120 --> 00:16:55.160
compare against

00:16:55.160 --> 00:16:57.720
Gri Ah I need a

00:16:57.720 --> 00:17:01.040
carabiner Ah see how great the pinch is

00:17:01.040 --> 00:17:04.079
You don't even need a carabiner Oh yes

00:17:04.079 --> 00:17:06.400
Swing it so it falls straight on my head

00:17:06.400 --> 00:17:11.959
and kills me And this is gri

00:17:17.039 --> 00:17:19.839
Yeah I've done this in the past a lot A

00:17:19.839 --> 00:17:22.720
lot a lot And it's possible to make it

00:17:22.720 --> 00:17:25.679
completely slip

00:17:26.120 --> 00:17:29.080
but way

00:17:29.080 --> 00:17:31.960
harder Okay just

00:17:31.960 --> 00:17:37.039
for sake of comparison this is

00:17:40.440 --> 00:17:43.520
criy Some people asked why it's why I

00:17:43.520 --> 00:17:47.840
call it creek Let's go

00:17:48.640 --> 00:17:51.760
I think this is even worse than pinch It

00:17:51.760 --> 00:17:55.039
seemed like it's falling much

00:17:59.320 --> 00:18:02.320
faster

00:18:02.360 --> 00:18:06.000
Yes This is definitely more sketchy Now

00:18:06.000 --> 00:18:08.240
every time I do these tests someone will

00:18:08.240 --> 00:18:11.280
complain that I'm using too low weights

00:18:11.280 --> 00:18:13.520
But I have already explained in my

00:18:13.520 --> 00:18:16.160
physics of Griggree video how friction

00:18:16.160 --> 00:18:19.360
affects the forces So I highly recommend

00:18:19.360 --> 00:18:21.919
to watch that video But long story short

00:18:21.919 --> 00:18:24.640
with enough friction your climbber

00:18:24.640 --> 00:18:27.600
becomes very light Let's maybe try with

00:18:27.600 --> 00:18:29.600
more weight because there's always

00:18:29.600 --> 00:18:32.360
people complaining about me using low

00:18:32.360 --> 00:18:36.320
weights Oh sheesh

00:18:36.320 --> 00:18:39.360
It's not going to kill

00:18:46.679 --> 00:18:49.200
me I guess I'm not going to try that

00:18:49.200 --> 00:18:51.559
with

00:18:51.559 --> 00:18:57.000
Neox Or should I you should I

00:18:57.000 --> 00:19:02.440
should [ __ ] Now it's a bit sketchy

00:19:04.480 --> 00:19:06.360
Okay this is

00:19:06.360 --> 00:19:08.760
definitely much more

00:19:08.760 --> 00:19:11.600
sketchy So when it comes to this test

00:19:11.600 --> 00:19:14.480
Griggy was the safest followed by pinch

00:19:14.480 --> 00:19:18.160
and Neox was the most likely to slip So

00:19:18.160 --> 00:19:21.600
I got a comment that catches with pinch

00:19:21.600 --> 00:19:24.320
felt harder than catches with gri So

00:19:24.320 --> 00:19:26.640
what I'm going to try is to measure the

00:19:26.640 --> 00:19:30.320
forces I am a bit skeptical about this I

00:19:30.320 --> 00:19:32.799
mean when Gri catches there is the

00:19:32.799 --> 00:19:35.919
carabiner which moves up so maybe that

00:19:35.919 --> 00:19:38.600
plays a role

00:19:38.600 --> 00:19:41.600
Three

00:19:42.600 --> 00:19:46.240
four Okay

00:19:51.400 --> 00:19:54.039
077

00:19:54.039 --> 00:19:57.039
3

00:20:00.039 --> 00:20:05.360
4 6 Exactly the

00:20:07.799 --> 00:20:09.559
same

00:20:09.559 --> 00:20:12.720
68 So I'm getting consistent results

00:20:12.720 --> 00:20:14.480
It's not even like that It's

00:20:14.480 --> 00:20:17.880
progressively loading It's just

00:20:17.880 --> 00:20:20.880
goes The only difference would be if

00:20:20.880 --> 00:20:22.720
there would be different slippage in the

00:20:22.720 --> 00:20:24.960
device But both of these devices seem to

00:20:24.960 --> 00:20:27.280
have similar slippage which is very

00:20:27.280 --> 00:20:28.679
little

00:20:28.679 --> 00:20:33.280
So equal However what should play more

00:20:33.280 --> 00:20:37.360
of a bigger effect is doing a proper

00:20:37.360 --> 00:20:39.760
soft catch It's a bit silly to even try

00:20:39.760 --> 00:20:42.880
on this uh test setup but let's see if I

00:20:42.880 --> 00:20:45.200
can do

00:20:46.440 --> 00:20:49.000
anything Half

00:20:49.000 --> 00:20:52.640
035 compared to the previous one So

00:20:52.640 --> 00:20:54.720
that's a good illustration how soft

00:20:54.720 --> 00:20:57.600
catch plays a much bigger role And

00:20:57.600 --> 00:20:59.240
actually my next video is going to be

00:20:59.240 --> 00:21:02.240
about soft catches and catching falls

00:21:02.240 --> 00:21:06.159
for my blay master class So stay tuned

00:21:06.159 --> 00:21:08.520
All right So

00:21:08.520 --> 00:21:11.679
takeaways grigree is definitely smoother

00:21:11.679 --> 00:21:14.559
to pull the rope through However this is

00:21:14.559 --> 00:21:17.039
only noticeable on thicker ropes like

00:21:17.039 --> 00:21:21.440
9.5 or above or some older fuzzier ropes

00:21:21.440 --> 00:21:24.080
Now if you bellayed in the past with gri

00:21:24.080 --> 00:21:27.440
and you like this index finger hooking

00:21:27.440 --> 00:21:31.120
on the lip to pay with slack by gri stay

00:21:31.120 --> 00:21:34.240
with gri be happy with gri However if

00:21:34.240 --> 00:21:36.080
you're not a fan of touching the blaying

00:21:36.080 --> 00:21:39.440
device then pinch is definitely an

00:21:39.440 --> 00:21:42.799
amazing alternative for you It works

00:21:42.799 --> 00:21:47.600
surprisingly well Very nice And I would

00:21:47.600 --> 00:21:48.919
pick

00:21:48.919 --> 00:21:52.600
Neos if I would primarily delay like

00:21:52.600 --> 00:21:56.720
this or I would use very very thick

00:21:56.720 --> 00:22:00.559
beefy ropes like 10 mm or above ropes

00:22:00.559 --> 00:22:03.600
It's only usable with Neox And before we

00:22:03.600 --> 00:22:05.600
finish I wanted to share a story with

00:22:05.600 --> 00:22:08.400
you When I was in university I had a

00:22:08.400 --> 00:22:10.799
calculus teacher who was probably one of

00:22:10.799 --> 00:22:13.200
the best teachers we had back then there

00:22:13.200 --> 00:22:15.520
And that teacher worked at a bank at a

00:22:15.520 --> 00:22:17.919
high position in a bank So he was making

00:22:17.919 --> 00:22:20.799
much more money in his bank job than

00:22:20.799 --> 00:22:23.039
teaching us And because of that one day

00:22:23.039 --> 00:22:24.799
somebody asked him like hey what's the

00:22:24.799 --> 00:22:26.640
point for you to come here every year

00:22:26.640 --> 00:22:29.520
and teach us when you are already there

00:22:29.520 --> 00:22:33.679
in your glamorous life and his answer

00:22:33.679 --> 00:22:35.760
actually stuck to me till this day He

00:22:35.760 --> 00:22:39.679
said well it's an exercise for my brain

00:22:39.679 --> 00:22:42.080
and I don't want to forget the basics So

00:22:42.080 --> 00:22:44.400
yeah for me that was a very nice message

00:22:44.400 --> 00:22:46.480
to never stop learning and that's why

00:22:46.480 --> 00:22:48.480
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00:23:13.520 --> 00:23:16.080
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00:23:16.080 --> 00:23:19.039
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00:23:19.039 --> 00:23:21.600
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00:23:21.600 --> 00:23:24.559
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00:24:04.000 --> 00:24:09.120
for being curious Enjoy climbing then