1 00:00:00,794 --> 00:00:03,254 You don't really look at a toothbrush and say, 2 00:00:03,254 --> 00:00:05,764 I'm great, but we look at a afro pick, 3 00:00:05,764 --> 00:00:07,144 which is a grooming tool, 4 00:00:07,144 --> 00:00:09,554 it can remind you in your subconscious to, like, 5 00:00:09,554 --> 00:00:12,543 really be proud and, like, all right. 6 00:00:12,543 --> 00:00:15,126 (upbeat music) 7 00:00:18,194 --> 00:00:21,604 An afro pick is a utilitarian tool 8 00:00:21,604 --> 00:00:25,494 used to maintain the afro hairstyle. 9 00:00:25,494 --> 00:00:27,984 I think the afro pick was designed 10 00:00:27,984 --> 00:00:30,504 for the ergonomics of creating something 11 00:00:30,504 --> 00:00:33,014 that felt like you were running fingers through your hair. 12 00:00:33,014 --> 00:00:35,534 The shape, even the depth that it goes in, 13 00:00:35,534 --> 00:00:36,514 it's like a hand. 14 00:00:36,514 --> 00:00:39,974 You have plastic or nylon teeth, 15 00:00:39,974 --> 00:00:43,124 and then you have the stainless steel, the nickel teeth. 16 00:00:43,124 --> 00:00:45,324 I always prefer the metal tooth 17 00:00:45,324 --> 00:00:47,104 just 'cause I like the sound, 18 00:00:47,104 --> 00:00:49,504 and the ones I know have the black power fist 19 00:00:49,504 --> 00:00:50,684 on the handle. 20 00:00:50,684 --> 00:00:52,884 When I think of black hair in America, 21 00:00:52,884 --> 00:00:55,334 I think of something that's been policed. 22 00:00:55,334 --> 00:00:57,964 Back in the days, it was expected for black people 23 00:00:57,964 --> 00:00:59,554 to chemically treat their hair. 24 00:00:59,554 --> 00:01:02,064 Whether that's healthy for them is a secondary thing 25 00:01:02,064 --> 00:01:03,774 to blending in. 26 00:01:03,774 --> 00:01:07,284 In the 50s, dancer Ruth Beckford and a lot of jazz singers 27 00:01:07,284 --> 00:01:08,774 were tired of straightening their hair, 28 00:01:08,774 --> 00:01:09,944 so they said that, all right, 29 00:01:09,944 --> 00:01:11,544 we're gonna just let it grow naturally, 30 00:01:11,544 --> 00:01:15,234 and started rocking natural, close-cropped hair. 31 00:01:15,234 --> 00:01:18,354 And in the 60s, that style evolved 32 00:01:18,354 --> 00:01:20,104 with the formation of the afro, 33 00:01:20,104 --> 00:01:23,204 which was the cropped hair, natural, picked out 34 00:01:23,204 --> 00:01:26,014 into a more spherical shape. 35 00:01:26,014 --> 00:01:28,794 You had civil rights leaders, activists, 36 00:01:28,794 --> 00:01:32,444 that adopted the hairstyle as a means of rebellion 37 00:01:32,444 --> 00:01:33,484 and black pride, 38 00:01:33,484 --> 00:01:35,504 and then you had musicians like James Brown, 39 00:01:35,504 --> 00:01:36,954 who's infamously known 40 00:01:36,954 --> 00:01:38,884 for chemically straightening his hair 41 00:01:38,884 --> 00:01:40,514 reject that and go natural. 42 00:01:40,514 --> 00:01:42,054 It went hand-in-hand with his music, 43 00:01:42,054 --> 00:01:42,981 so he had songs like 44 00:01:42,981 --> 00:01:45,134 "Say it Loud, I'm Black and I'm Proud." 45 00:01:45,134 --> 00:01:46,824 The black is beautiful movement 46 00:01:46,824 --> 00:01:49,824 is just rejecting the notion now to be black 47 00:01:49,824 --> 00:01:53,404 or to have darker skin, to have a curlier grade of hair, 48 00:01:53,404 --> 00:01:55,684 was something to be ashamed of. 49 00:01:55,684 --> 00:01:58,114 I have one of my favorite pictures of my mother 50 00:01:58,114 --> 00:01:59,444 and my grandmother, 51 00:01:59,444 --> 00:02:01,234 and my grandmother had a small 'fro, 52 00:02:01,234 --> 00:02:03,584 and that was in the 60s. 53 00:02:03,584 --> 00:02:07,574 African hair combs date back to 3500 BCE. 54 00:02:07,574 --> 00:02:09,904 The oldest African combs are found 55 00:02:09,904 --> 00:02:12,344 in ancient Egypt and Sudan, 56 00:02:12,344 --> 00:02:15,034 so they were making pyramids and combs. 57 00:02:15,034 --> 00:02:18,114 The way the ancient African combs were embellished 58 00:02:18,114 --> 00:02:21,634 represented status or tribal affiliation. 59 00:02:21,634 --> 00:02:24,384 It's no coincidence that the fist 60 00:02:24,384 --> 00:02:26,084 on the modern afro pick 61 00:02:26,084 --> 00:02:28,634 also sets the tone for affiliation 62 00:02:28,634 --> 00:02:30,684 and what set you claim. 63 00:02:30,684 --> 00:02:32,954 And then there's the black power movement. 64 00:02:32,954 --> 00:02:35,054 Most movements need their icons, right? 65 00:02:35,054 --> 00:02:37,494 You have the fist, you have the 'fro. 66 00:02:37,494 --> 00:02:40,094 These things coincide with the Black Panther aesthetic, 67 00:02:40,094 --> 00:02:42,754 where you could kinda spot your tribe from afar. 68 00:02:42,754 --> 00:02:44,754 Because you're not just keeping a pick in, like, 69 00:02:44,754 --> 00:02:45,634 your beauty kit. 70 00:02:45,634 --> 00:02:47,364 It's, like, it's in your back pocket, 71 00:02:47,364 --> 00:02:49,854 purposely with the first outside of it alls, 72 00:02:49,854 --> 00:02:52,194 and your hair, you'll rock it in your 'fro. 73 00:02:52,194 --> 00:02:54,064 If I think about iconic afros, 74 00:02:54,064 --> 00:02:56,324 I definitely think about Angela Davis. 75 00:02:56,324 --> 00:02:59,434 Her 'fro personifies elegant style, 76 00:02:59,434 --> 00:03:01,334 freedom, rebellion. 77 00:03:01,334 --> 00:03:02,774 You feel all of these feelings at once 78 00:03:02,774 --> 00:03:05,204 when you see Angela Davis fighting for her life 79 00:03:05,204 --> 00:03:06,464 in federal court. 80 00:03:06,464 --> 00:03:10,004 By the 80s, the afro style became less radical. 81 00:03:10,004 --> 00:03:12,474 The afro picks are still produced to this day 82 00:03:12,474 --> 00:03:13,624 with the clenched fist, 83 00:03:13,624 --> 00:03:15,624 so it's the remnants of the movement 84 00:03:15,624 --> 00:03:17,854 in the everyday object. 85 00:03:17,854 --> 00:03:20,714 When I was young, it was just, like, another object. 86 00:03:20,714 --> 00:03:21,814 It was a comb. 87 00:03:21,814 --> 00:03:24,074 But as I became more enlightened 88 00:03:24,074 --> 00:03:26,484 to really understand, like, the roots and the origin 89 00:03:26,484 --> 00:03:29,204 and the intentionality of the design 90 00:03:29,204 --> 00:03:31,957 and why the fist and all of these things, 91 00:03:33,414 --> 00:03:34,948 I woke up. 92 00:03:34,948 --> 00:03:37,531 (upbeat music)