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舊年我住喺一個印度本地人屋企

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有一個晏晝

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佢哋嘅細仔食緊飯

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一見到我，就將佢嘅咖喱收喺背後

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說服咗佢好耐先佢畀我睇佢食緊咩

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原來係蛾嘅幼蟲

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一種馬迪亞當地人嘅傳統美食

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我喊住話：

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「我呀，你食緊呢啲嘢！

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希望你有剩返啲畀我食啦。」

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然後我見到個男仔難以置信嘅眼神

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「你…要食呢啲？」

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我答：「我超鍾意食。」

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我睇得出佢完全唔信我

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一個城市嚟又受過教育嘅女人

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點會同佢鍾意食同樣嘅嘢？

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後來，我同佢爸爸討論呢個話題

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原來係一件極敏感嘅事嚟

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佢講咗顃似嘅嘢：

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「哦。得呢個仔鍾意食蛾嘅幼蟲，

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我哋同佢講咪再食啦，唔好㗎

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但你都見啦，佢唔聽我哋講

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我哋冇食好耐啦。」

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我問佢哋：「點解呀？

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係你哋嘅傳統食物嚟。

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喺你哋嘅生活環境搵到

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好有營養價值

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而且—我保證—好好食

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食佢有咩問題？」

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然後佢爸爸冇出聲

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我問佢：

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「係咪有人同你講過你啲食物唔好

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係退化嘅

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冇文化嘅？」

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他沉默咁點頭

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呢次只係我同無數印度當地人做嘢時

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見證到佢哋以食物為恥嘅其中一次

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食你鍾意嘅食物

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世世代代都一直食緊嘅食物

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係低級嘅

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甚至係低人一等嘅

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而且呢種羞恥感唔單止係講
一啲冷門、嘔心嘅食物

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可能係，例如昆蟲、老鼠

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仲擴展到去正常食物：

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白色蔬菜

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菌類，花—

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基本上就係所有野生
而唔係農民種植嘅食物

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呢種以食物為恥嘅現象
喺印度當地普遍存在

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任何因素都可能引起呢種羞恥感

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指派上流社會嘅素食校長去一間學校

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啲學生唔洗幾個星期，
就同父母講食蟹好核突呀

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或者食肉會有罪惡感

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政府提供鬆軟白飯嘅營養計劃

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就令到宜家冇人想食紅米或者小米

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一個非貿利組織嚟到呢個小鎮
為孕婦能提供理想嘅膳食搭配

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就係咁

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全部孕婦都好傷心

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因為佢哋買唔起蘋果同法式薄餅

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而大家似乎都唔記得咗

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啲水果其實係森林地下就執到

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醫療人員

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傳教士

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政府官員

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或者係佢哋受過教育嘅子女

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都係大大聲同啲本地人講

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佢哋嘅食物唔夠好

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唔夠文明

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所以呢啲食物就一啲一啲咁

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逐漸消失

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我好奇你哋有冇認真諗過

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你社交圈子嘅人有冇類似嘅經歷

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如果當你同 90 歲嘅婆婆傾計

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佢會唔會講起啲
你從未見過或聽過嘅食物

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你有冇發現有幾多你哋食開嘅食物

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已經再搵唔返啦

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當地專家同我講

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南非宜家嘅食物經濟鏈
完全依靠進口食物

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栗米成為咗主食

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然而本土嘅高粱，小米，
球莖同塊莖類食物都消失哂

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當大家食緊薯仔、洋葱、
椰菜同紅蘿蔔嘅時候

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野生豆類同蔬菜都一樣消失哂

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喺我嘅國家

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呢啲食物損失極為龐大

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現代印度充住大米、小麥

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同糖尿病

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而且我哋完全唔記得一啲食物
例如各式各樣嘅塊莖類

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樹液、魚、貝類

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油籽、

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蚌類、菌類、昆蟲

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小型、未瀕危動物肉類

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呢一切曾經都係唾手可得

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到底宜家呢啲食物去哂邊？

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點解現代社會食物種類咁少？

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我哋可以講吓
複雜嘅政治經濟同生態原因

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但我今日想講嘅係
呢種令人覺得羞恥嘅現象

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因為羞恥先係

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你碟上面食物消失嘅致命點

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羞恥會做啲咩？

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羞恥令你感到渺小

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失落

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冇價值

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次人一等

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羞恥可以創造一種認知失調

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可以歪曲食物故事

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我可以舉個例子

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你想唔想要一種

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奇妙又多功能嘅主食

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係喺你身邊隨處可見嘅？

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你只需要過去收集佢

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風乾，收好

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然後你就可以成年都擁有啦

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可以用佢嚟做無數道你鍾意嘅菜式

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印度就曾經有呢種食物叫做馬胡卡

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就係呢種花

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過去三年我一直搵緊呢種食物

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係當地傳統同科學知識記載嘅

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富有極高營養價值嘅食物

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佢以前係當地人

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一年嘅四至六個月嘅主食

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佢好多方面
都似你哋嘅馬魯拉果（marula)

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只係佢係花，而唔係水果

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喺豐盛嘅森林入面

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大家仍然可以收獲到成年嘅糧食

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而且仲有淨可以拎去賣

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我搵到 35 種唔同嘅馬胡卡菜式

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宜家已經冇人會再煮

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佢甚至唔再比人視為食物

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而只係一種釀酒原料

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只係屋企藏有呢種食物
就已經可以拉你

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點解？
因為羞恥

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我問過所有印度當地人

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點解冇人再吃馬胡卡

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都係得到一模一樣嘅答案

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「哦，以前係因為又窮又餓先食啫

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宜家做乜要食？

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都有大米同小麥啦。」

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與此同時

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佢哋都話我知馬胡卡幾有營養價值

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實會聽到老人家食馬胡卡嘅故事

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「我哋婆婆有 10 個細路

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佢以前做嘢好辛苦
但從未試過攰或者病。」

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周圍都聽到呢兩個一樣嘅故事

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點解？

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點解同一樣食物

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喺差唔多同一句嘢到

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同時畀人認為富有營養價值
又象征住貧窮？

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森林嘅食物都一樣

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我聽過一個又一個

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關於饑荒同挨餓令人心碎嘅故事

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大家要靠食森林搵到嘅垃圾為生

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因為冇嘢食

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如果我再深究少少

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原來唔係冇食物

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而係冇好似米一樣咁體面嘅食物

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我問佢哋

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你哋點知道
呢啲所謂嘅垃圾係食得？

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邊個同你講呢啲咁苦嘅塊莖

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放喺溪入面一晚就會變甜？

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或者點識拎蝸牛殼入面嘅肉？

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又點識設置陷阱捉老鼠？」

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呢個時候佢哋就開始抓頭

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然後就意識到係長輩教過佢哋

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佢哋嘅祖先係食米之前

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呢啲嘢食已經興盛咗幾個世紀

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而佢哋仲健康過宜家呢個世代好多

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呢啲就係食物嘅作用

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呢啲就係羞恥嘅作用：

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令食物同食物傳統
係大家嘅生活同記憶中消失

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甚至佢哋都唔覺嘅情況下

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咁我哋點逆轉呢種趨勢呢？

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點樣重拾返我哋
美麗又複雜嘅自然食物系統

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呢啲食物係地球媽媽有愛咁
用佢自己嘅節奏咁賜予我哋

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由我哋先祖媽媽用喜悅準備嘅

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再由我哋先祖爸爸滿懷感激咁食

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又健康、土生土長、自然、

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多樣、好味、

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唔需要耕種

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唔會破壞我哋生態系統

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唔需要任何代價嘅食物

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我哋都需要呢啲食物

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我諗唔洗講你哋都知點解

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我唔需要同你哋講健康危機、

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氣候變化、水源危機、

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土壤退化、

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農業系統崩潰、

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所有呢啲危機

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但對我嚟講同樣咁重要嘅原因

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係我身同感受嘅原因

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因為食物代表好多嘢

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食物係營養、舒適感

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創造力、凝聚力、

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愉悅、安全、身份

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仲有更多更多

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咁我哋點同食物連繫

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定義咗我哋嘅生命好多面

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定義咗我哋點同身體連繫

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因為我哋身體終究都係由食物組成

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定義咗我哋存在嘅基本連繫感知

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00:11:28,464 --> 00:11:31,501
今日係我哋最需要呢啲食物嘅時候

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00:11:31,525 --> 00:11:35,376
先可以定義到我哋人類

201
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喺大自然結構中嘅位置

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咁我哋需要咁重新定義咩？

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對我嚟講，唯一嘅真正答案係愛

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因為只有愛可以對抗羞恥

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咁點樣帶到更多嘅愛
去我哋同食物嘅連繫呢？

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對我嚟講，愛，好大程度上

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就係甘願去放慢

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用時間去感受、

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感應、傾聽、發問

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可以係傾聽我哋嘅身體

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飲食習慣、信仰、嗜好之下

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我哋嘅身體需要啲咩？

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愛可以用時間嚟研究呢啲信仰

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佢哋嚟自邊到？

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可以追溯到我哋童年

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細個嘅時候鍾意食咩

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又咩唔同咗

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可以用個靜謐嘅夜晚同長輩傾偈

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聽吓佢哋對食物嘅回憶

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或者幫佢哋手煮啲佢哋鍾意食嘅嘢

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然後一齊食

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愛可以係銘記

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人性係豐富嘅

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而食物選擇係多樣嘅

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愛可以係向人展示出尊重同好奇

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而唔係譴責

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當見到人享受緊一種好陌生嘅食物

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愛可以係用時間嚟發問、

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發掘更多資訊

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主動去連繫

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愛甚至可以靜靜咁喺弗因博斯散步

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睇吓有冇特定嘅一種植物同你講嘢

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會㗎

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佢哋成日都同我講嘢

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最重要係

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愛係相信呢啲小小嘅探索腳步

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都有可能帶領到我哋搵到更大

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有時仲有係好令人驚喜嘅答案

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有個當地賣藥嘅女人同我講過

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愛就係以地球媽媽最愛之子嘅身份

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喺佢身上行走

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並且堅信佢重視真誠之心

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知道佢會點樣指導我哋嘅每一步

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我希望今日有啟發到各位

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開始重新同你哋祖先嘅食物連繫

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多謝你哋傾聽

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（掌聲）