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[BRAD] What's up, guys?

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My name is Brad.

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Welcome back to another video.

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If you're new to this channel,[br]we talk about welding and

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fabrication, CNC machining,[br]some Fusion 360 stuff,

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and we're gonna dive into[br]some really cool projects.

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So if that sounds like fun,[br]hit that subscribe button.

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On this week's video,[br]we travel out from Colorado

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to Utah to talk with Joel and[br]his crew at Overkill Racing and

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Chassis about how to lay down a[br]beautiful open corner MIG weld.

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I'm gonna pass you over to[br]Joel, Rodrigo, and Alex Brown.

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These three guys are gonna give[br]you the tips and tricks, the

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techniques to be able to make[br]this possible for you at home.

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So stay tuned,[br]hit that like button,

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let's get into it.

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[JOEL] One of the most common[br]questions that we get is how

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do we make our MIG welds[br]look the way that we do?

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What we're gonna do today[br]is we're gonna answer those

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questions one by one.

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And it's not just a[br]one step solution.

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We've got our prep work.

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We've got the fit up itself.

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We got voltage settings,[br]and there's a couple other

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little techniques that you're[br]gonna learn from two of the

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best MIG welders that I know.

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When it comes to welding[br]in general, there's a lot

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of people that feel there's[br]a lot of trade secrets.

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When it comes to MIG[br]welding an open corner,

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what we're gonna do is pull[br]the layers of that onion back.

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We're gonna give you guys[br]all the tips and tricks that

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you need so you can weld[br]exactly like Rod and Alex.

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All right, guys, so here it is,[br]quarter inch open corner joint

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for your social media shots,[br]and you're looking to get

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something like this.

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We're gonna give[br]you all the tips.

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First things first,[br]if you look at this part,

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look at how clean it is.

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It's not a bunch of mill scale.

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It's not all dirty.

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Rod, what did you do to actually[br]clean and prep this part?

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[RODRIGO] First thing I[br]did was I hit all sides,

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I mean every single[br]side, with a DA pad.

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And then I took my[br]three-inch Roloc disc with

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a Scotch-Brite and cleaned[br]off all these inside edges.

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So there's no mill scale, which[br]just leaves a nice clean weld.

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[JOEL] Once you actually[br]get ready to weld the part,

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so we've got it all prepped up[br]and you got all the mill scale

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removed, settings and stuff.

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I mean, that's one of the[br]biggest misconceptions.

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You know, people are running a[br]real, real thick diameter wire.

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We're really only running[br]an.030 diameter wire,

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and it's a Lincoln[br]L56 ER70 S-6 wire.

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In terms of settings,[br]we're running roughly about

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18 volts, 18.5 volts, and just[br]around 200 inches a minute.

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And, uh, Alex, I mean,[br]I know you do a lot of

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pulse, um, spray work.

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If you were to be welding[br]this open corner, compared

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to the settings we would use,[br]how much would you change it?

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[ALEX BROWN] Um, well, as far as[br]the, the layout of the machine,

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it wouldn't be a voltage[br]and a wire speed.

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It would be a wire[br]speed and arc length.

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So the machine setup's[br]a little different.

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The mode of transfer's[br]quite a bit different.

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The technique itself is[br]actually pretty similar

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to what I do whenever I'm[br]trying to get that real,

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uh, nice stack of dimes.

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It's a really different[br]process from what I'm used to,

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and so I can't speak much to[br]the short arc aspect of it.

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But Rod did a really[br]nice job on these.

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These look as good as[br]I've ever seen from

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anyone, so I'm impressed.

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[RODRIGO] So if you look here,[br]you actually see that these open

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corners are tic-tacked together.

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And the reason I do that is[br]'cause when you're welding

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over it, you don't get these[br]massive lumps that just

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make your weld look ugly.

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So I start right here, and as I[br]come forward, I'm coming down,

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making sure my wire's in[br]the center of that joint.

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I come forward a little bit.

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I start coming up,[br]and as you come up,

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you see this silica[br]form, which is this, like,

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brown substance you see here.

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And as it forms,[br]you see that it

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gets darker.

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And as, as soon as you see[br]it gets darker is when you

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start your process all over.

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So with this Millermatic 252,[br]we are running.030 wire

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and 75% argon and 25%[br]CO2 as a shielding gas.

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So when I'm welding an[br]eighth-inch open corner

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joint, I will be around[br]16.5 volts and a wire

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speed of around 150 to 170.

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When I weld a quarter-inch[br]open corner joint, I am

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running 18 volts and anywhere[br]between 200 to 220 inches per

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minute for the wire speed.

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And this is with.030 wire.

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[JOEL] So what I'm gonna do here[br]for you is I'm actually gonna

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show a visual demonstration,[br]basically what Rod

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is talking about.

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So here we're gonna[br]use this piece that Rod

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welded on the back side.

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It's a quarter-inch open corner,[br]like he was talking about.

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And what we're gonna be doing[br]here is describing kind of

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what he was saying, but[br]actually on the table itself.

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So if we depict these lines as[br]being the throat of the weld,

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so basically the inside section,[br]and these two lines here being

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the toes, which are these edges,[br]these are really what you wanna

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focus on if you wanna have that[br]nice, consistent looking weld.

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So there's a couple of[br]different ways that you

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can go about doing it.

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Some people like to do what's[br]called a whip and pause.

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So what that is is you're[br]actually just moving the puddle

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straight in between the middle[br]of the throat and the toes,

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and you're pausing for a second.

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And what you're doing is[br]you're letting what's called

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the deposition rate fill up[br]the joint with filler wire.

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Once it's filled to make that[br]nice, clean-looking bead,

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then you pull back or whip,[br]and then you pause again.

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So as you pause again,[br]it's going to start

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stacking 'em up.

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So there's another technique[br]that people like to use,

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and that Rod actually used[br]specifically for this weld here.

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And it's essentially[br]doing a cursive E.

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So what he's doing is he's[br]working his way to the bottom

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of that toe and quickly[br]moving his way to the top,

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and then pausing just for[br]a brief second at the top,

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and then working his way[br]back down to the bottom,

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working his way back to the top,[br]and just repeating this all the

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way through the entire joint.

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And what that's gonna leave[br]you is this real nice,

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consistent looking weld profile.

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As long as your Es are[br]consistent every single

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time, your weld will[br]eventually look like this.

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[RODRIGO] Don't be discouraged[br]if you don't get it right away.

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[ALEX BROWN] Yeah,[br]I agree with that.

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There's, there's no secret.

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It's just practice.

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[JOEL] Guys, and just remember,[br]this is just a baseline.

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The numbers that work[br]best for Rod are gonna

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be different from what[br]works best for Alex that are

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definitely gonna be different[br]from what works best for me.

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So it's one of those that[br]this'll give you a great

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foundation, but ultimately,[br]with a little bit of practice,

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you'll be able to fine tune[br]your settings so that you

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can produce what Rod has been[br]producing this whole time.

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Guys, I hope this tip helps.

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Thanks for watching.

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If you learned anything,[br]hit that like and

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subscribe button.

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And until next time.