0:00:00.510,0:00:02.340 - Welcome everybody, I am TockCustom. 0:00:02.340,0:00:03.930 And on this video we're gonna show you 0:00:03.930,0:00:06.660 how to tailor a button down[br]shirt just like we made 0:00:06.660,0:00:08.010 in our last video. 0:00:08.010,0:00:09.900 If you missed that, feel free[br]to go back and watch that. 0:00:09.900,0:00:12.660 Otherwise, if you have[br]some shirts that you want 0:00:12.660,0:00:13.920 to be a little bit more fitted, 0:00:13.920,0:00:15.840 we're gonna show you how[br]to do that right now. 0:00:15.840,0:00:17.520 And also at the end of[br]the video, I'll show you 0:00:17.520,0:00:20.820 how to do a long sleeve[br]dress shirt that has cuffs. 0:00:20.820,0:00:22.440 The steps are pretty much the same, 0:00:22.440,0:00:24.960 but I will show you what[br]is different with that. 0:00:24.960,0:00:26.010 Now, all you're gonna need 0:00:26.010,0:00:28.260 to get started is[br]whatever button down shirt 0:00:28.260,0:00:31.050 or dress shirt that you[br]want to tailor to yourself. 0:00:31.050,0:00:33.180 You'll need a sewing[br]machine, some scissors, 0:00:33.180,0:00:34.920 and some thread. 0:00:34.920,0:00:37.530 Alright, so our first step to[br]tailoring a shirt is we have 0:00:37.530,0:00:39.030 to put it on and button it up. 0:00:41.820,0:00:43.860 Now in this shirt, I wanna[br]bring it in about an inch 0:00:43.860,0:00:45.000 and a half on either side 0:00:45.000,0:00:47.400 so that I've got a much more narrow fit. 0:00:47.400,0:00:49.890 So we're gonna start at the[br]sleeve through the armpit 0:00:49.890,0:00:51.270 and all the way down to the bottom. 0:00:51.270,0:00:52.620 But before we do that, we have 0:00:52.620,0:00:55.710 to open our rolled hem[br]at the end of the sleeve 0:00:55.710,0:00:57.916 and at the bottom of our side seam. 0:00:57.916,0:01:00.150 So I'm gonna show you[br]how to do that right now. 0:01:00.150,0:01:02.220 Now we're gonna take about[br]an inch of fabric out 0:01:02.220,0:01:03.690 of this shirt on either side. 0:01:03.690,0:01:06.600 So I want to take out about[br]two inches of my rolled hem. 0:01:06.600,0:01:07.980 So I'm just gonna pop these stitches 0:01:07.980,0:01:09.330 and then lay this out flat. 0:01:15.660,0:01:18.360 So I've taken about an[br]inch off either side 0:01:18.360,0:01:20.580 of this center seam of our rolled hem, 0:01:20.580,0:01:24.060 and that should open this up[br]so that we can lay this flat. 0:01:24.060,0:01:25.350 I'm gonna end up ironing this, 0:01:25.350,0:01:28.560 and then we should be able[br]to see our nice raw edge. 0:01:28.560,0:01:31.377 And this is exactly what we[br]need to do on either sleeve 0:01:31.377,0:01:33.480 and the bottoms of our shirt. 0:01:33.480,0:01:36.450 So I'm gonna do all four[br]of those parts right now. 0:01:36.450,0:01:37.530 Alright, so I've got all 0:01:37.530,0:01:41.460 of my rolled hems open about[br]two inches on either sleeve 0:01:41.460,0:01:45.360 and two inches at the bottom[br]of each of my side seams here. 0:01:45.360,0:01:47.760 So now I'm gonna press[br]these that they're open 0:01:47.760,0:01:49.710 so that they're easier to work with. 0:01:49.710,0:01:51.300 Now, just so you can see[br]how this is gonna work, 0:01:51.300,0:01:53.970 I'm just gonna press this[br]open and then use my iron 0:01:53.970,0:01:56.100 to make sure this all lays nice and flat. 0:01:56.100,0:01:57.330 And this is really gonna help us 0:01:57.330,0:02:01.023 when we end up tailoring[br]these seams of our shirt. 0:02:02.130,0:02:03.480 Alright, so now you should have something 0:02:03.480,0:02:04.313 that looks like that. 0:02:04.313,0:02:06.630 And I'm gonna do this[br]with the other three seams 0:02:06.630,0:02:09.693 so that these are all nice[br]and open and flat like that. 0:02:10.710,0:02:12.930 Alright, so my hems on my sleeves 0:02:12.930,0:02:16.830 and the bottoms are all open[br]and pressed, so that lays flat. 0:02:16.830,0:02:17.663 So at this point, 0:02:17.663,0:02:19.860 we're gonna wanna turn[br]our shirt inside out 0:02:19.860,0:02:21.543 and lay it flat on our table. 0:02:25.530,0:02:27.420 Alright, so now I've[br]got my shirt inside out 0:02:27.420,0:02:30.540 and this is the end of my[br]left sleeve through the armpit 0:02:30.540,0:02:32.370 and all the way down to the bottom. 0:02:32.370,0:02:34.380 And you should be able[br]to see the raw edges 0:02:34.380,0:02:36.720 since we opened up that hem. 0:02:36.720,0:02:39.330 Now I want to take this in[br]about an inch on either side. 0:02:39.330,0:02:40.940 So I'm just gonna kind of eyeball 0:02:40.940,0:02:43.050 and mark this with white chalk. 0:02:43.050,0:02:44.220 I don't know if you can see this, 0:02:44.220,0:02:47.190 but this is just kind[br]of a reference for me 0:02:47.190,0:02:50.430 so that I know roughly where[br]my stitches are gonna go 0:02:50.430,0:02:53.850 and try to keep your fabric nice and flat. 0:02:53.850,0:02:55.050 So it should look like that. 0:02:55.050,0:02:56.700 I don't need to pin this at all. 0:02:56.700,0:02:59.010 I'm just gonna take this right[br]over to my sewing machine 0:02:59.010,0:03:01.170 and sew from the bottom all the way up 0:03:01.170,0:03:03.420 to the end of the sleeve there. 0:03:03.420,0:03:05.070 Alright, so we're at our sewing machine 0:03:05.070,0:03:06.930 and because this is a woven fabric, 0:03:06.930,0:03:08.550 we can just do a regular straight stitch, 0:03:08.550,0:03:09.930 which is a lot easier. 0:03:09.930,0:03:11.559 Now before we start, it's really important 0:03:11.559,0:03:15.090 that you line up the two raw edges. 0:03:15.090,0:03:17.550 If these are uneven like that, 0:03:17.550,0:03:18.650 it's not gonna come together well. 0:03:18.650,0:03:20.490 So you wanna make sure that the raw edges 0:03:20.490,0:03:22.710 of your fabric are perfectly flushed 0:03:22.710,0:03:24.540 with each other like this. 0:03:24.540,0:03:26.280 Now as I feed this into my machine, 0:03:26.280,0:03:28.320 I want to take out an inch of fabric 0:03:28.320,0:03:32.040 from where we did our original seam here. 0:03:32.040,0:03:34.320 So I'm gonna line up this stitch 0:03:34.320,0:03:37.860 with the one inch mark[br]on our plate right here. 0:03:37.860,0:03:40.260 So that's what we're looking to do. 0:03:40.260,0:03:41.730 Now I've got this all nice and flush. 0:03:41.730,0:03:42.563 Everything looks good. 0:03:42.563,0:03:44.542 So I'm gonna do a front and back stitch. 0:03:44.542,0:03:47.910 (sewing machine whirring) 0:03:47.910,0:03:49.290 And now all I have to do 0:03:49.290,0:03:52.830 is just follow this entire[br]stitch all the way down 0:03:52.830,0:03:53.970 to the bottom of the shirt 0:03:53.970,0:03:56.130 following this one inch seam allowance 0:03:56.130,0:03:58.503 from this black stitch right here. 0:04:05.100,0:04:06.750 Alright, now as I get close to the bottom, 0:04:06.750,0:04:08.970 I also wanna make sure[br]that the two raw edges 0:04:08.970,0:04:12.660 of fabric at the very bottom[br]are also perfectly flushed 0:04:12.660,0:04:15.393 so that we've got a nice even seam. 0:04:17.160,0:04:19.680 Finished with a back[br]stitch and cut my thread 0:04:19.680,0:04:21.810 and we are done with one side. 0:04:21.810,0:04:23.490 So now I'm gonna do the[br]other side real quick 0:04:23.490,0:04:25.560 and show you what happens next. 0:04:25.560,0:04:26.640 Alright, so now you should have something 0:04:26.640,0:04:27.630 that looks like this here. 0:04:27.630,0:04:30.600 So here was our original seam[br]and here is our new seam. 0:04:30.600,0:04:33.540 So normally I would just take this over 0:04:33.540,0:04:36.570 to my serger like we[br]did on the original end 0:04:36.570,0:04:37.920 and just serge the whole thing 0:04:37.920,0:04:39.180 and it would trim it and clean it up. 0:04:39.180,0:04:41.850 But I'm going to show you how to cut it 0:04:41.850,0:04:43.920 and do a zigzag stitch for those of you 0:04:43.920,0:04:46.170 who don't have a serger. 0:04:46.170,0:04:47.790 So what I'm gonna do[br]is I'm gonna trim this 0:04:47.790,0:04:51.600 so that the raw seam is[br]about maybe half an inch 0:04:51.600,0:04:55.353 or so from our new seam[br]that we just sewed. 0:05:04.620,0:05:06.440 Alright, so we've got our seams trimmed, 0:05:06.440,0:05:08.760 and this is a good length[br]for us to work with 0:05:08.760,0:05:09.900 for a zigzag stitch. 0:05:09.900,0:05:12.780 And again, when you use a[br]serger or an overlock machine, 0:05:12.780,0:05:16.260 it's gonna lock all these up[br]because with any woven fabric, 0:05:16.260,0:05:18.330 you're gonna get loose threads like this 0:05:18.330,0:05:19.800 if you just lightly tug on it. 0:05:19.800,0:05:20.633 We don't want that. 0:05:20.633,0:05:21.466 So I'm gonna show you 0:05:21.466,0:05:23.490 how to clean this up without a serger 0:05:23.490,0:05:26.850 so that you've got nice[br]clean seams on the inside. 0:05:26.850,0:05:28.260 Now the first part of overlocking 0:05:28.260,0:05:30.210 with a zigzag stitch is[br]you have to figure out 0:05:30.210,0:05:32.430 where your zigzag stitch[br]is on your machine. 0:05:32.430,0:05:34.050 This has a digital touch screen, 0:05:34.050,0:05:37.410 so I know this is my zigzag stitch here. 0:05:37.410,0:05:41.580 And what I want to do is I'm[br]gonna modify the zigzag stitch. 0:05:41.580,0:05:44.640 So this tells me how wide[br]the stitch is gonna be, 0:05:44.640,0:05:47.310 and this tells me how long[br]the stitch is gonna be. 0:05:47.310,0:05:49.290 So I want this to be as wide as possible, 0:05:49.290,0:05:52.020 which I think is seven millimeters wide. 0:05:52.020,0:05:56.640 And I'm gonna keep this at[br]about 1.6 millimeters in length 0:05:56.640,0:05:59.430 and you'll kind of see how[br]that looks as we do this. 0:05:59.430,0:06:03.210 Now that we have our zigzag[br]set the way that we want it to, 0:06:03.210,0:06:04.110 the way this is gonna work 0:06:04.110,0:06:06.390 is we're gonna do one[br]stitch off the fabric 0:06:06.390,0:06:09.570 and then one stitch on the[br]fabric but I want to start on. 0:06:09.570,0:06:13.050 Currently my needle is on[br]the right side of my machine, 0:06:13.050,0:06:15.420 so I'm gonna use my hand[br]wheel to go all the way down 0:06:15.420,0:06:16.253 and when this comes up, 0:06:16.253,0:06:18.933 it's gonna snap to the left like that. 0:06:19.890,0:06:24.000 So now what I want to do is[br]our first stitch is gonna start 0:06:24.000,0:06:25.950 on the fabric, 0:06:25.950,0:06:27.510 and I'm gonna use my[br]hand wheel to make sure 0:06:27.510,0:06:31.890 that the second stitch is going[br]off the edge of that fabric. 0:06:31.890,0:06:33.540 When I go all the way down, 0:06:33.540,0:06:36.780 it should just barely be off like that. 0:06:36.780,0:06:39.160 So as I do a front stitch 0:06:40.260,0:06:42.780 and a back stitch, I'm gonna[br]go all the way off the edge, 0:06:42.780,0:06:44.250 almost off the edge. 0:06:44.250,0:06:46.680 Alright, so as I follow the[br]seam, what's gonna happen 0:06:46.680,0:06:50.430 is every other stitch is gonna[br]go off the edge of the fabric 0:06:50.430,0:06:53.610 and it's gonna lock any frayed 0:06:53.610,0:06:56.730 or loose threads to[br]the inside of that seam 0:06:56.730,0:06:58.230 so that it stays nice and clean, 0:06:58.230,0:07:01.773 kind of like an overlock machine,[br]but much more simplified. 0:07:02.820,0:07:06.240 And I'm gonna just go all[br]the way down from the edge 0:07:06.240,0:07:09.023 of the sleeve all the way down[br]to the bottom of the shirt. 0:07:13.350,0:07:14.700 Alright, so as I get to the bottom, 0:07:14.700,0:07:16.290 I'm gonna cut my thread 0:07:16.290,0:07:18.510 and you should have something[br]that looks like this. 0:07:18.510,0:07:20.730 And this zigzag is going to keep all 0:07:20.730,0:07:22.830 of this raw fabric from fraying, 0:07:22.830,0:07:26.610 and it doesn't look quite[br]as pretty as a serge seam, 0:07:26.610,0:07:28.380 but it will keep your fabric from fraying 0:07:28.380,0:07:29.790 and you're not gonna get loose threads 0:07:29.790,0:07:33.240 or not nearly as many if[br]you didn't do this at all. 0:07:33.240,0:07:34.650 So I'm gonna clean this up a little bit 0:07:34.650,0:07:36.510 and then I'll show you what's next. 0:07:36.510,0:07:37.410 Alright, so when you're done, 0:07:37.410,0:07:38.850 you should have something[br]that looks like this. 0:07:38.850,0:07:40.110 And I know it looks kind of messy, 0:07:40.110,0:07:43.140 but all I need to do is just[br]trim off any bulk right there 0:07:43.140,0:07:44.880 in any loose threads. 0:07:44.880,0:07:46.936 And if I pull this real tight, 0:07:46.936,0:07:51.900 the hem should actually kind[br]of start to reform by itself. 0:07:51.900,0:07:54.210 And I'm just gonna kind of tuck that in. 0:07:54.210,0:07:56.280 And then I'm gonna press this with my iron 0:07:56.280,0:07:59.610 and it should just kind of[br]line up with the previous hem 0:07:59.610,0:08:02.463 that was in there before[br]we took it apart like that. 0:08:03.420,0:08:06.420 Okay, so I'm just pressing[br]our rolled hem back into shape 0:08:06.420,0:08:09.150 just like it was before we[br]opened this up and tailored it. 0:08:09.150,0:08:10.590 And I'm just gonna do a start 0:08:10.590,0:08:13.230 and back stitch here,[br]stitch across the rolled hem 0:08:13.230,0:08:16.080 and end here by doing another back stitch. 0:08:16.080,0:08:18.090 And that's gonna close that up. 0:08:18.090,0:08:20.190 We're gonna do this on both the side seams 0:08:20.190,0:08:21.180 and both the sleeves 0:08:21.180,0:08:24.750 and then we are actually done[br]with tailoring our shirt. 0:08:24.750,0:08:27.450 Okay, so here is how our new hem looks 0:08:27.450,0:08:30.720 as we just kind of[br]restitched that together. 0:08:30.720,0:08:33.720 And I'm just going to[br]trim any loose threads 0:08:33.720,0:08:35.520 that we have from the outside first. 0:08:35.520,0:08:38.340 And then I'm gonna flip[br]this and look at the inside. 0:08:38.340,0:08:43.113 And I'm gonna trim any loose[br]threads from the inside. 0:08:44.010,0:08:45.630 And when you're kind of recovering 0:08:45.630,0:08:48.090 or repairing stitches,[br]it's usually a good idea 0:08:48.090,0:08:50.460 to use some kind of a fabric glue. 0:08:50.460,0:08:52.170 So I'm gonna use some fray check here. 0:08:52.170,0:08:55.860 And I'm gonna put a couple of[br]drops there where we started 0:08:55.860,0:08:57.780 and ended those stitches. 0:08:57.780,0:08:59.670 Alright, so now that we got[br]some fray check on there, 0:08:59.670,0:09:01.620 that's gonna look nice[br]and clean on the inside 0:09:01.620,0:09:03.090 and the outside, just like that. 0:09:03.090,0:09:04.830 And it's not gonna fall apart in the wash 0:09:04.830,0:09:06.420 or anything like that. 0:09:06.420,0:09:09.180 Alright, now before we try[br]on our new tailored shirt, 0:09:09.180,0:09:12.900 I did mention that I was[br]gonna just quickly go over 0:09:12.900,0:09:15.840 how you would do this with[br]a long sleeve dress shirt. 0:09:15.840,0:09:17.370 And I'm not even gonna do a full demo 0:09:17.370,0:09:18.600 'cause I don't need to. 0:09:18.600,0:09:20.010 But if you were tailoring 0:09:20.010,0:09:23.040 a long sleeve dress shirt[br]like this with a cuff, 0:09:23.040,0:09:25.140 you would do everything exactly the same 0:09:25.140,0:09:26.490 where you unhemmed the bottom 0:09:26.490,0:09:29.670 and then you're gonna stitch[br]up through the armpit here. 0:09:29.670,0:09:33.180 And then when you got close to your cuff, 0:09:33.180,0:09:36.270 what you would do is you would[br]follow this one inch or so 0:09:36.270,0:09:38.070 or whatever you end up tailoring. 0:09:38.070,0:09:40.020 And then as you get close[br]to the cuff, you get closer 0:09:40.020,0:09:42.120 and closer to your original seam 0:09:42.120,0:09:43.410 and you're just gonna blend in 0:09:43.410,0:09:46.020 with the original seam about right here 0:09:46.020,0:09:48.300 so that it's completely seamless. 0:09:48.300,0:09:51.480 You'd end up trimming out any[br]extra fabric and then serging 0:09:51.480,0:09:54.450 or zigzagging over that[br]raw edge like that. 0:09:54.450,0:09:56.310 Now after you've tailored[br]your dress shirt, 0:09:56.310,0:09:58.440 if you find that the cuff is still too big 0:09:58.440,0:10:02.880 around your wrist, all you'd[br]have to do is take your button, 0:10:02.880,0:10:06.000 pop out the stitches, move[br]it in about half an inch 0:10:06.000,0:10:07.590 or an inch, or however much you need 0:10:07.590,0:10:11.910 to resow your button a little[br]bit into the cuff right there. 0:10:11.910,0:10:14.910 And everything is gonna work[br]out perfectly just like it did 0:10:14.910,0:10:17.250 with the other shirt[br]that we just finished. 0:10:17.250,0:10:19.530 Okay, so as I try this on, I can tell 0:10:19.530,0:10:21.090 that this is fitting a lot better. 0:10:21.090,0:10:24.120 It's not quite as dramatic[br]as the t-shirt that we did, 0:10:24.120,0:10:27.960 but as I look at my sleeve,[br]my armpit, down the flank 0:10:27.960,0:10:30.210 and around the hips, it[br]feels a little bit tighter 0:10:30.210,0:10:31.043 and more narrow. 0:10:31.043,0:10:32.100 So if it looks like I'm wearing 0:10:32.100,0:10:35.400 a custom handmade tailored shirt, 0:10:35.400,0:10:37.320 that's exactly what I'm wearing. 0:10:37.320,0:10:39.780 Hopefully this helped you[br]guys tailor your own shirts 0:10:39.780,0:10:40.890 or dress shirts. 0:10:40.890,0:10:41.723 If you have any questions, 0:10:41.723,0:10:43.380 please let me know in the comments. 0:10:43.380,0:10:45.060 Otherwise, thank you so much for watching. 0:10:45.060,0:10:46.447 Thank all of you for your support 0:10:46.447,0:10:48.723 and I will see you in the next video.