1 00:00:00,510 --> 00:00:02,340 - Welcome everybody, I am TockCustom. 2 00:00:02,340 --> 00:00:03,930 And on this video we're gonna show you 3 00:00:03,930 --> 00:00:06,660 how to tailor a button down shirt just like we made 4 00:00:06,660 --> 00:00:08,010 in our last video. 5 00:00:08,010 --> 00:00:09,900 If you missed that, feel free to go back and watch that. 6 00:00:09,900 --> 00:00:12,660 Otherwise, if you have some shirts that you want 7 00:00:12,660 --> 00:00:13,920 to be a little bit more fitted, 8 00:00:13,920 --> 00:00:15,840 we're gonna show you how to do that right now. 9 00:00:15,840 --> 00:00:17,520 And also at the end of the video, I'll show you 10 00:00:17,520 --> 00:00:20,820 how to do a long sleeve dress shirt that has cuffs. 11 00:00:20,820 --> 00:00:22,440 The steps are pretty much the same, 12 00:00:22,440 --> 00:00:24,960 but I will show you what is different with that. 13 00:00:24,960 --> 00:00:26,010 Now, all you're gonna need 14 00:00:26,010 --> 00:00:28,260 to get started is whatever button down shirt 15 00:00:28,260 --> 00:00:31,050 or dress shirt that you want to tailor to yourself. 16 00:00:31,050 --> 00:00:33,180 You'll need a sewing machine, some scissors, 17 00:00:33,180 --> 00:00:34,920 and some thread. 18 00:00:34,920 --> 00:00:37,530 Alright, so our first step to tailoring a shirt is we have 19 00:00:37,530 --> 00:00:39,030 to put it on and button it up. 20 00:00:41,820 --> 00:00:43,860 Now in this shirt, I wanna bring it in about an inch 21 00:00:43,860 --> 00:00:45,000 and a half on either side 22 00:00:45,000 --> 00:00:47,400 so that I've got a much more narrow fit. 23 00:00:47,400 --> 00:00:49,890 So we're gonna start at the sleeve through the armpit 24 00:00:49,890 --> 00:00:51,270 and all the way down to the bottom. 25 00:00:51,270 --> 00:00:52,620 But before we do that, we have 26 00:00:52,620 --> 00:00:55,710 to open our rolled hem at the end of the sleeve 27 00:00:55,710 --> 00:00:57,916 and at the bottom of our side seam. 28 00:00:57,916 --> 00:01:00,150 So I'm gonna show you how to do that right now. 29 00:01:00,150 --> 00:01:02,220 Now we're gonna take about an inch of fabric out 30 00:01:02,220 --> 00:01:03,690 of this shirt on either side. 31 00:01:03,690 --> 00:01:06,600 So I want to take out about two inches of my rolled hem. 32 00:01:06,600 --> 00:01:07,980 So I'm just gonna pop these stitches 33 00:01:07,980 --> 00:01:09,330 and then lay this out flat. 34 00:01:15,660 --> 00:01:18,360 So I've taken about an inch off either side 35 00:01:18,360 --> 00:01:20,580 of this center seam of our rolled hem, 36 00:01:20,580 --> 00:01:24,060 and that should open this up so that we can lay this flat. 37 00:01:24,060 --> 00:01:25,350 I'm gonna end up ironing this, 38 00:01:25,350 --> 00:01:28,560 and then we should be able to see our nice raw edge. 39 00:01:28,560 --> 00:01:31,377 And this is exactly what we need to do on either sleeve 40 00:01:31,377 --> 00:01:33,480 and the bottoms of our shirt. 41 00:01:33,480 --> 00:01:36,450 So I'm gonna do all four of those parts right now. 42 00:01:36,450 --> 00:01:37,530 Alright, so I've got all 43 00:01:37,530 --> 00:01:41,460 of my rolled hems open about two inches on either sleeve 44 00:01:41,460 --> 00:01:45,360 and two inches at the bottom of each of my side seams here. 45 00:01:45,360 --> 00:01:47,760 So now I'm gonna press these that they're open 46 00:01:47,760 --> 00:01:49,710 so that they're easier to work with. 47 00:01:49,710 --> 00:01:51,300 Now, just so you can see how this is gonna work, 48 00:01:51,300 --> 00:01:53,970 I'm just gonna press this open and then use my iron 49 00:01:53,970 --> 00:01:56,100 to make sure this all lays nice and flat. 50 00:01:56,100 --> 00:01:57,330 And this is really gonna help us 51 00:01:57,330 --> 00:02:01,023 when we end up tailoring these seams of our shirt. 52 00:02:02,130 --> 00:02:03,480 Alright, so now you should have something 53 00:02:03,480 --> 00:02:04,313 that looks like that. 54 00:02:04,313 --> 00:02:06,630 And I'm gonna do this with the other three seams 55 00:02:06,630 --> 00:02:09,693 so that these are all nice and open and flat like that. 56 00:02:10,710 --> 00:02:12,930 Alright, so my hems on my sleeves 57 00:02:12,930 --> 00:02:16,830 and the bottoms are all open and pressed, so that lays flat. 58 00:02:16,830 --> 00:02:17,663 So at this point, 59 00:02:17,663 --> 00:02:19,860 we're gonna wanna turn our shirt inside out 60 00:02:19,860 --> 00:02:21,543 and lay it flat on our table. 61 00:02:25,530 --> 00:02:27,420 Alright, so now I've got my shirt inside out 62 00:02:27,420 --> 00:02:30,540 and this is the end of my left sleeve through the armpit 63 00:02:30,540 --> 00:02:32,370 and all the way down to the bottom. 64 00:02:32,370 --> 00:02:34,380 And you should be able to see the raw edges 65 00:02:34,380 --> 00:02:36,720 since we opened up that hem. 66 00:02:36,720 --> 00:02:39,330 Now I want to take this in about an inch on either side. 67 00:02:39,330 --> 00:02:40,940 So I'm just gonna kind of eyeball 68 00:02:40,940 --> 00:02:43,050 and mark this with white chalk. 69 00:02:43,050 --> 00:02:44,220 I don't know if you can see this, 70 00:02:44,220 --> 00:02:47,190 but this is just kind of a reference for me 71 00:02:47,190 --> 00:02:50,430 so that I know roughly where my stitches are gonna go 72 00:02:50,430 --> 00:02:53,850 and try to keep your fabric nice and flat. 73 00:02:53,850 --> 00:02:55,050 So it should look like that. 74 00:02:55,050 --> 00:02:56,700 I don't need to pin this at all. 75 00:02:56,700 --> 00:02:59,010 I'm just gonna take this right over to my sewing machine 76 00:02:59,010 --> 00:03:01,170 and sew from the bottom all the way up 77 00:03:01,170 --> 00:03:03,420 to the end of the sleeve there. 78 00:03:03,420 --> 00:03:05,070 Alright, so we're at our sewing machine 79 00:03:05,070 --> 00:03:06,930 and because this is a woven fabric, 80 00:03:06,930 --> 00:03:08,550 we can just do a regular straight stitch, 81 00:03:08,550 --> 00:03:09,930 which is a lot easier. 82 00:03:09,930 --> 00:03:11,559 Now before we start, it's really important 83 00:03:11,559 --> 00:03:15,090 that you line up the two raw edges. 84 00:03:15,090 --> 00:03:17,550 If these are uneven like that, 85 00:03:17,550 --> 00:03:18,650 it's not gonna come together well. 86 00:03:18,650 --> 00:03:20,490 So you wanna make sure that the raw edges 87 00:03:20,490 --> 00:03:22,710 of your fabric are perfectly flushed 88 00:03:22,710 --> 00:03:24,540 with each other like this. 89 00:03:24,540 --> 00:03:26,280 Now as I feed this into my machine, 90 00:03:26,280 --> 00:03:28,320 I want to take out an inch of fabric 91 00:03:28,320 --> 00:03:32,040 from where we did our original seam here. 92 00:03:32,040 --> 00:03:34,320 So I'm gonna line up this stitch 93 00:03:34,320 --> 00:03:37,860 with the one inch mark on our plate right here. 94 00:03:37,860 --> 00:03:40,260 So that's what we're looking to do. 95 00:03:40,260 --> 00:03:41,730 Now I've got this all nice and flush. 96 00:03:41,730 --> 00:03:42,563 Everything looks good. 97 00:03:42,563 --> 00:03:44,542 So I'm gonna do a front and back stitch. 98 00:03:44,542 --> 00:03:47,910 (sewing machine whirring) 99 00:03:47,910 --> 00:03:49,290 And now all I have to do 100 00:03:49,290 --> 00:03:52,830 is just follow this entire stitch all the way down 101 00:03:52,830 --> 00:03:53,970 to the bottom of the shirt 102 00:03:53,970 --> 00:03:56,130 following this one inch seam allowance 103 00:03:56,130 --> 00:03:58,503 from this black stitch right here. 104 00:04:05,100 --> 00:04:06,750 Alright, now as I get close to the bottom, 105 00:04:06,750 --> 00:04:08,970 I also wanna make sure that the two raw edges 106 00:04:08,970 --> 00:04:12,660 of fabric at the very bottom are also perfectly flushed 107 00:04:12,660 --> 00:04:15,393 so that we've got a nice even seam. 108 00:04:17,160 --> 00:04:19,680 Finished with a back stitch and cut my thread 109 00:04:19,680 --> 00:04:21,810 and we are done with one side. 110 00:04:21,810 --> 00:04:23,490 So now I'm gonna do the other side real quick 111 00:04:23,490 --> 00:04:25,560 and show you what happens next. 112 00:04:25,560 --> 00:04:26,640 Alright, so now you should have something 113 00:04:26,640 --> 00:04:27,630 that looks like this here. 114 00:04:27,630 --> 00:04:30,600 So here was our original seam and here is our new seam. 115 00:04:30,600 --> 00:04:33,540 So normally I would just take this over 116 00:04:33,540 --> 00:04:36,570 to my serger like we did on the original end 117 00:04:36,570 --> 00:04:37,920 and just serge the whole thing 118 00:04:37,920 --> 00:04:39,180 and it would trim it and clean it up. 119 00:04:39,180 --> 00:04:41,850 But I'm going to show you how to cut it 120 00:04:41,850 --> 00:04:43,920 and do a zigzag stitch for those of you 121 00:04:43,920 --> 00:04:46,170 who don't have a serger. 122 00:04:46,170 --> 00:04:47,790 So what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna trim this 123 00:04:47,790 --> 00:04:51,600 so that the raw seam is about maybe half an inch 124 00:04:51,600 --> 00:04:55,353 or so from our new seam that we just sewed. 125 00:05:04,620 --> 00:05:06,440 Alright, so we've got our seams trimmed, 126 00:05:06,440 --> 00:05:08,760 and this is a good length for us to work with 127 00:05:08,760 --> 00:05:09,900 for a zigzag stitch. 128 00:05:09,900 --> 00:05:12,780 And again, when you use a serger or an overlock machine, 129 00:05:12,780 --> 00:05:16,260 it's gonna lock all these up because with any woven fabric, 130 00:05:16,260 --> 00:05:18,330 you're gonna get loose threads like this 131 00:05:18,330 --> 00:05:19,800 if you just lightly tug on it. 132 00:05:19,800 --> 00:05:20,633 We don't want that. 133 00:05:20,633 --> 00:05:21,466 So I'm gonna show you 134 00:05:21,466 --> 00:05:23,490 how to clean this up without a serger 135 00:05:23,490 --> 00:05:26,850 so that you've got nice clean seams on the inside. 136 00:05:26,850 --> 00:05:28,260 Now the first part of overlocking 137 00:05:28,260 --> 00:05:30,210 with a zigzag stitch is you have to figure out 138 00:05:30,210 --> 00:05:32,430 where your zigzag stitch is on your machine. 139 00:05:32,430 --> 00:05:34,050 This has a digital touch screen, 140 00:05:34,050 --> 00:05:37,410 so I know this is my zigzag stitch here. 141 00:05:37,410 --> 00:05:41,580 And what I want to do is I'm gonna modify the zigzag stitch. 142 00:05:41,580 --> 00:05:44,640 So this tells me how wide the stitch is gonna be, 143 00:05:44,640 --> 00:05:47,310 and this tells me how long the stitch is gonna be. 144 00:05:47,310 --> 00:05:49,290 So I want this to be as wide as possible, 145 00:05:49,290 --> 00:05:52,020 which I think is seven millimeters wide. 146 00:05:52,020 --> 00:05:56,640 And I'm gonna keep this at about 1.6 millimeters in length 147 00:05:56,640 --> 00:05:59,430 and you'll kind of see how that looks as we do this. 148 00:05:59,430 --> 00:06:03,210 Now that we have our zigzag set the way that we want it to, 149 00:06:03,210 --> 00:06:04,110 the way this is gonna work 150 00:06:04,110 --> 00:06:06,390 is we're gonna do one stitch off the fabric 151 00:06:06,390 --> 00:06:09,570 and then one stitch on the fabric but I want to start on. 152 00:06:09,570 --> 00:06:13,050 Currently my needle is on the right side of my machine, 153 00:06:13,050 --> 00:06:15,420 so I'm gonna use my hand wheel to go all the way down 154 00:06:15,420 --> 00:06:16,253 and when this comes up, 155 00:06:16,253 --> 00:06:18,933 it's gonna snap to the left like that. 156 00:06:19,890 --> 00:06:24,000 So now what I want to do is our first stitch is gonna start 157 00:06:24,000 --> 00:06:25,950 on the fabric, 158 00:06:25,950 --> 00:06:27,510 and I'm gonna use my hand wheel to make sure 159 00:06:27,510 --> 00:06:31,890 that the second stitch is going off the edge of that fabric. 160 00:06:31,890 --> 00:06:33,540 When I go all the way down, 161 00:06:33,540 --> 00:06:36,780 it should just barely be off like that. 162 00:06:36,780 --> 00:06:39,160 So as I do a front stitch 163 00:06:40,260 --> 00:06:42,780 and a back stitch, I'm gonna go all the way off the edge, 164 00:06:42,780 --> 00:06:44,250 almost off the edge. 165 00:06:44,250 --> 00:06:46,680 Alright, so as I follow the seam, what's gonna happen 166 00:06:46,680 --> 00:06:50,430 is every other stitch is gonna go off the edge of the fabric 167 00:06:50,430 --> 00:06:53,610 and it's gonna lock any frayed 168 00:06:53,610 --> 00:06:56,730 or loose threads to the inside of that seam 169 00:06:56,730 --> 00:06:58,230 so that it stays nice and clean, 170 00:06:58,230 --> 00:07:01,773 kind of like an overlock machine, but much more simplified. 171 00:07:02,820 --> 00:07:06,240 And I'm gonna just go all the way down from the edge 172 00:07:06,240 --> 00:07:09,023 of the sleeve all the way down to the bottom of the shirt. 173 00:07:13,350 --> 00:07:14,700 Alright, so as I get to the bottom, 174 00:07:14,700 --> 00:07:16,290 I'm gonna cut my thread 175 00:07:16,290 --> 00:07:18,510 and you should have something that looks like this. 176 00:07:18,510 --> 00:07:20,730 And this zigzag is going to keep all 177 00:07:20,730 --> 00:07:22,830 of this raw fabric from fraying, 178 00:07:22,830 --> 00:07:26,610 and it doesn't look quite as pretty as a serge seam, 179 00:07:26,610 --> 00:07:28,380 but it will keep your fabric from fraying 180 00:07:28,380 --> 00:07:29,790 and you're not gonna get loose threads 181 00:07:29,790 --> 00:07:33,240 or not nearly as many if you didn't do this at all. 182 00:07:33,240 --> 00:07:34,650 So I'm gonna clean this up a little bit 183 00:07:34,650 --> 00:07:36,510 and then I'll show you what's next. 184 00:07:36,510 --> 00:07:37,410 Alright, so when you're done, 185 00:07:37,410 --> 00:07:38,850 you should have something that looks like this. 186 00:07:38,850 --> 00:07:40,110 And I know it looks kind of messy, 187 00:07:40,110 --> 00:07:43,140 but all I need to do is just trim off any bulk right there 188 00:07:43,140 --> 00:07:44,880 in any loose threads. 189 00:07:44,880 --> 00:07:46,936 And if I pull this real tight, 190 00:07:46,936 --> 00:07:51,900 the hem should actually kind of start to reform by itself. 191 00:07:51,900 --> 00:07:54,210 And I'm just gonna kind of tuck that in. 192 00:07:54,210 --> 00:07:56,280 And then I'm gonna press this with my iron 193 00:07:56,280 --> 00:07:59,610 and it should just kind of line up with the previous hem 194 00:07:59,610 --> 00:08:02,463 that was in there before we took it apart like that. 195 00:08:03,420 --> 00:08:06,420 Okay, so I'm just pressing our rolled hem back into shape 196 00:08:06,420 --> 00:08:09,150 just like it was before we opened this up and tailored it. 197 00:08:09,150 --> 00:08:10,590 And I'm just gonna do a start 198 00:08:10,590 --> 00:08:13,230 and back stitch here, stitch across the rolled hem 199 00:08:13,230 --> 00:08:16,080 and end here by doing another back stitch. 200 00:08:16,080 --> 00:08:18,090 And that's gonna close that up. 201 00:08:18,090 --> 00:08:20,190 We're gonna do this on both the side seams 202 00:08:20,190 --> 00:08:21,180 and both the sleeves 203 00:08:21,180 --> 00:08:24,750 and then we are actually done with tailoring our shirt. 204 00:08:24,750 --> 00:08:27,450 Okay, so here is how our new hem looks 205 00:08:27,450 --> 00:08:30,720 as we just kind of restitched that together. 206 00:08:30,720 --> 00:08:33,720 And I'm just going to trim any loose threads 207 00:08:33,720 --> 00:08:35,520 that we have from the outside first. 208 00:08:35,520 --> 00:08:38,340 And then I'm gonna flip this and look at the inside. 209 00:08:38,340 --> 00:08:43,113 And I'm gonna trim any loose threads from the inside. 210 00:08:44,010 --> 00:08:45,630 And when you're kind of recovering 211 00:08:45,630 --> 00:08:48,090 or repairing stitches, it's usually a good idea 212 00:08:48,090 --> 00:08:50,460 to use some kind of a fabric glue. 213 00:08:50,460 --> 00:08:52,170 So I'm gonna use some fray check here. 214 00:08:52,170 --> 00:08:55,860 And I'm gonna put a couple of drops there where we started 215 00:08:55,860 --> 00:08:57,780 and ended those stitches. 216 00:08:57,780 --> 00:08:59,670 Alright, so now that we got some fray check on there, 217 00:08:59,670 --> 00:09:01,620 that's gonna look nice and clean on the inside 218 00:09:01,620 --> 00:09:03,090 and the outside, just like that. 219 00:09:03,090 --> 00:09:04,830 And it's not gonna fall apart in the wash 220 00:09:04,830 --> 00:09:06,420 or anything like that. 221 00:09:06,420 --> 00:09:09,180 Alright, now before we try on our new tailored shirt, 222 00:09:09,180 --> 00:09:12,900 I did mention that I was gonna just quickly go over 223 00:09:12,900 --> 00:09:15,840 how you would do this with a long sleeve dress shirt. 224 00:09:15,840 --> 00:09:17,370 And I'm not even gonna do a full demo 225 00:09:17,370 --> 00:09:18,600 'cause I don't need to. 226 00:09:18,600 --> 00:09:20,010 But if you were tailoring 227 00:09:20,010 --> 00:09:23,040 a long sleeve dress shirt like this with a cuff, 228 00:09:23,040 --> 00:09:25,140 you would do everything exactly the same 229 00:09:25,140 --> 00:09:26,490 where you unhemmed the bottom 230 00:09:26,490 --> 00:09:29,670 and then you're gonna stitch up through the armpit here. 231 00:09:29,670 --> 00:09:33,180 And then when you got close to your cuff, 232 00:09:33,180 --> 00:09:36,270 what you would do is you would follow this one inch or so 233 00:09:36,270 --> 00:09:38,070 or whatever you end up tailoring. 234 00:09:38,070 --> 00:09:40,020 And then as you get close to the cuff, you get closer 235 00:09:40,020 --> 00:09:42,120 and closer to your original seam 236 00:09:42,120 --> 00:09:43,410 and you're just gonna blend in 237 00:09:43,410 --> 00:09:46,020 with the original seam about right here 238 00:09:46,020 --> 00:09:48,300 so that it's completely seamless. 239 00:09:48,300 --> 00:09:51,480 You'd end up trimming out any extra fabric and then serging 240 00:09:51,480 --> 00:09:54,450 or zigzagging over that raw edge like that. 241 00:09:54,450 --> 00:09:56,310 Now after you've tailored your dress shirt, 242 00:09:56,310 --> 00:09:58,440 if you find that the cuff is still too big 243 00:09:58,440 --> 00:10:02,880 around your wrist, all you'd have to do is take your button, 244 00:10:02,880 --> 00:10:06,000 pop out the stitches, move it in about half an inch 245 00:10:06,000 --> 00:10:07,590 or an inch, or however much you need 246 00:10:07,590 --> 00:10:11,910 to resow your button a little bit into the cuff right there. 247 00:10:11,910 --> 00:10:14,910 And everything is gonna work out perfectly just like it did 248 00:10:14,910 --> 00:10:17,250 with the other shirt that we just finished. 249 00:10:17,250 --> 00:10:19,530 Okay, so as I try this on, I can tell 250 00:10:19,530 --> 00:10:21,090 that this is fitting a lot better. 251 00:10:21,090 --> 00:10:24,120 It's not quite as dramatic as the t-shirt that we did, 252 00:10:24,120 --> 00:10:27,960 but as I look at my sleeve, my armpit, down the flank 253 00:10:27,960 --> 00:10:30,210 and around the hips, it feels a little bit tighter 254 00:10:30,210 --> 00:10:31,043 and more narrow. 255 00:10:31,043 --> 00:10:32,100 So if it looks like I'm wearing 256 00:10:32,100 --> 00:10:35,400 a custom handmade tailored shirt, 257 00:10:35,400 --> 00:10:37,320 that's exactly what I'm wearing. 258 00:10:37,320 --> 00:10:39,780 Hopefully this helped you guys tailor your own shirts 259 00:10:39,780 --> 00:10:40,890 or dress shirts. 260 00:10:40,890 --> 00:10:41,723 If you have any questions, 261 00:10:41,723 --> 00:10:43,380 please let me know in the comments. 262 00:10:43,380 --> 00:10:45,060 Otherwise, thank you so much for watching. 263 00:10:45,060 --> 00:10:46,447 Thank all of you for your support 264 00:10:46,447 --> 00:10:48,723 and I will see you in the next video.