WEBVTT 00:00:00.510 --> 00:00:02.340 - Welcome everybody, I am TockCustom. 00:00:02.340 --> 00:00:03.930 And on this video we're gonna show you 00:00:03.930 --> 00:00:06.660 how to tailor a button down shirt just like we made 00:00:06.660 --> 00:00:08.010 in our last video. 00:00:08.010 --> 00:00:09.900 If you missed that, feel free to go back and watch that. 00:00:09.900 --> 00:00:12.660 Otherwise, if you have some shirts that you want 00:00:12.660 --> 00:00:13.920 to be a little bit more fitted, 00:00:13.920 --> 00:00:15.840 we're gonna show you how to do that right now. 00:00:15.840 --> 00:00:17.520 And also at the end of the video, I'll show you 00:00:17.520 --> 00:00:20.820 how to do a long sleeve dress shirt that has cuffs. 00:00:20.820 --> 00:00:22.440 The steps are pretty much the same, 00:00:22.440 --> 00:00:24.960 but I will show you what is different with that. 00:00:24.960 --> 00:00:26.010 Now, all you're gonna need 00:00:26.010 --> 00:00:28.260 to get started is whatever button down shirt 00:00:28.260 --> 00:00:31.050 or dress shirt that you want to tailor to yourself. 00:00:31.050 --> 00:00:33.180 You'll need a sewing machine, some scissors, 00:00:33.180 --> 00:00:34.920 and some thread. 00:00:34.920 --> 00:00:37.530 Alright, so our first step to tailoring a shirt is we have 00:00:37.530 --> 00:00:39.030 to put it on and button it up. 00:00:41.820 --> 00:00:43.860 Now in this shirt, I wanna bring it in about an inch 00:00:43.860 --> 00:00:45.000 and a half on either side 00:00:45.000 --> 00:00:47.400 so that I've got a much more narrow fit. 00:00:47.400 --> 00:00:49.890 So we're gonna start at the sleeve through the armpit 00:00:49.890 --> 00:00:51.270 and all the way down to the bottom. 00:00:51.270 --> 00:00:52.620 But before we do that, we have 00:00:52.620 --> 00:00:55.710 to open our rolled hem at the end of the sleeve 00:00:55.710 --> 00:00:57.916 and at the bottom of our side seam. 00:00:57.916 --> 00:01:00.150 So I'm gonna show you how to do that right now. 00:01:00.150 --> 00:01:02.220 Now we're gonna take about an inch of fabric out 00:01:02.220 --> 00:01:03.690 of this shirt on either side. 00:01:03.690 --> 00:01:06.600 So I want to take out about two inches of my rolled hem. 00:01:06.600 --> 00:01:07.980 So I'm just gonna pop these stitches 00:01:07.980 --> 00:01:09.330 and then lay this out flat. 00:01:15.660 --> 00:01:18.360 So I've taken about an inch off either side 00:01:18.360 --> 00:01:20.580 of this center seam of our rolled hem, 00:01:20.580 --> 00:01:24.060 and that should open this up so that we can lay this flat. 00:01:24.060 --> 00:01:25.350 I'm gonna end up ironing this, 00:01:25.350 --> 00:01:28.560 and then we should be able to see our nice raw edge. 00:01:28.560 --> 00:01:31.377 And this is exactly what we need to do on either sleeve 00:01:31.377 --> 00:01:33.480 and the bottoms of our shirt. 00:01:33.480 --> 00:01:36.450 So I'm gonna do all four of those parts right now. 00:01:36.450 --> 00:01:37.530 Alright, so I've got all 00:01:37.530 --> 00:01:41.460 of my rolled hems open about two inches on either sleeve 00:01:41.460 --> 00:01:45.360 and two inches at the bottom of each of my side seams here. 00:01:45.360 --> 00:01:47.760 So now I'm gonna press these that they're open 00:01:47.760 --> 00:01:49.710 so that they're easier to work with. 00:01:49.710 --> 00:01:51.300 Now, just so you can see how this is gonna work, 00:01:51.300 --> 00:01:53.970 I'm just gonna press this open and then use my iron 00:01:53.970 --> 00:01:56.100 to make sure this all lays nice and flat. 00:01:56.100 --> 00:01:57.330 And this is really gonna help us 00:01:57.330 --> 00:02:01.023 when we end up tailoring these seams of our shirt. 00:02:02.130 --> 00:02:03.480 Alright, so now you should have something 00:02:03.480 --> 00:02:04.313 that looks like that. 00:02:04.313 --> 00:02:06.630 And I'm gonna do this with the other three seams 00:02:06.630 --> 00:02:09.693 so that these are all nice and open and flat like that. 00:02:10.710 --> 00:02:12.930 Alright, so my hems on my sleeves 00:02:12.930 --> 00:02:16.830 and the bottoms are all open and pressed, so that lays flat. 00:02:16.830 --> 00:02:17.663 So at this point, 00:02:17.663 --> 00:02:19.860 we're gonna wanna turn our shirt inside out 00:02:19.860 --> 00:02:21.543 and lay it flat on our table. 00:02:25.530 --> 00:02:27.420 Alright, so now I've got my shirt inside out 00:02:27.420 --> 00:02:30.540 and this is the end of my left sleeve through the armpit 00:02:30.540 --> 00:02:32.370 and all the way down to the bottom. 00:02:32.370 --> 00:02:34.380 And you should be able to see the raw edges 00:02:34.380 --> 00:02:36.720 since we opened up that hem. 00:02:36.720 --> 00:02:39.330 Now I want to take this in about an inch on either side. 00:02:39.330 --> 00:02:40.940 So I'm just gonna kind of eyeball 00:02:40.940 --> 00:02:43.050 and mark this with white chalk. 00:02:43.050 --> 00:02:44.220 I don't know if you can see this, 00:02:44.220 --> 00:02:47.190 but this is just kind of a reference for me 00:02:47.190 --> 00:02:50.430 so that I know roughly where my stitches are gonna go 00:02:50.430 --> 00:02:53.850 and try to keep your fabric nice and flat. 00:02:53.850 --> 00:02:55.050 So it should look like that. 00:02:55.050 --> 00:02:56.700 I don't need to pin this at all. 00:02:56.700 --> 00:02:59.010 I'm just gonna take this right over to my sewing machine 00:02:59.010 --> 00:03:01.170 and sew from the bottom all the way up 00:03:01.170 --> 00:03:03.420 to the end of the sleeve there. 00:03:03.420 --> 00:03:05.070 Alright, so we're at our sewing machine 00:03:05.070 --> 00:03:06.930 and because this is a woven fabric, 00:03:06.930 --> 00:03:08.550 we can just do a regular straight stitch, 00:03:08.550 --> 00:03:09.930 which is a lot easier. 00:03:09.930 --> 00:03:11.559 Now before we start, it's really important 00:03:11.559 --> 00:03:15.090 that you line up the two raw edges. 00:03:15.090 --> 00:03:17.550 If these are uneven like that, 00:03:17.550 --> 00:03:18.650 it's not gonna come together well. 00:03:18.650 --> 00:03:20.490 So you wanna make sure that the raw edges 00:03:20.490 --> 00:03:22.710 of your fabric are perfectly flushed 00:03:22.710 --> 00:03:24.540 with each other like this. 00:03:24.540 --> 00:03:26.280 Now as I feed this into my machine, 00:03:26.280 --> 00:03:28.320 I want to take out an inch of fabric 00:03:28.320 --> 00:03:32.040 from where we did our original seam here. 00:03:32.040 --> 00:03:34.320 So I'm gonna line up this stitch 00:03:34.320 --> 00:03:37.860 with the one inch mark on our plate right here. 00:03:37.860 --> 00:03:40.260 So that's what we're looking to do. 00:03:40.260 --> 00:03:41.730 Now I've got this all nice and flush. 00:03:41.730 --> 00:03:42.563 Everything looks good. 00:03:42.563 --> 00:03:44.542 So I'm gonna do a front and back stitch. 00:03:44.542 --> 00:03:47.910 (sewing machine whirring) 00:03:47.910 --> 00:03:49.290 And now all I have to do 00:03:49.290 --> 00:03:52.830 is just follow this entire stitch all the way down 00:03:52.830 --> 00:03:53.970 to the bottom of the shirt 00:03:53.970 --> 00:03:56.130 following this one inch seam allowance 00:03:56.130 --> 00:03:58.503 from this black stitch right here. 00:04:05.100 --> 00:04:06.750 Alright, now as I get close to the bottom, 00:04:06.750 --> 00:04:08.970 I also wanna make sure that the two raw edges 00:04:08.970 --> 00:04:12.660 of fabric at the very bottom are also perfectly flushed 00:04:12.660 --> 00:04:15.393 so that we've got a nice even seam. 00:04:17.160 --> 00:04:19.680 Finished with a back stitch and cut my thread 00:04:19.680 --> 00:04:21.810 and we are done with one side. 00:04:21.810 --> 00:04:23.490 So now I'm gonna do the other side real quick 00:04:23.490 --> 00:04:25.560 and show you what happens next. 00:04:25.560 --> 00:04:26.640 Alright, so now you should have something 00:04:26.640 --> 00:04:27.630 that looks like this here. 00:04:27.630 --> 00:04:30.600 So here was our original seam and here is our new seam. 00:04:30.600 --> 00:04:33.540 So normally I would just take this over 00:04:33.540 --> 00:04:36.570 to my serger like we did on the original end 00:04:36.570 --> 00:04:37.920 and just serge the whole thing 00:04:37.920 --> 00:04:39.180 and it would trim it and clean it up. 00:04:39.180 --> 00:04:41.850 But I'm going to show you how to cut it 00:04:41.850 --> 00:04:43.920 and do a zigzag stitch for those of you 00:04:43.920 --> 00:04:46.170 who don't have a serger. 00:04:46.170 --> 00:04:47.790 So what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna trim this 00:04:47.790 --> 00:04:51.600 so that the raw seam is about maybe half an inch 00:04:51.600 --> 00:04:55.353 or so from our new seam that we just sewed. 00:05:04.620 --> 00:05:06.440 Alright, so we've got our seams trimmed, 00:05:06.440 --> 00:05:08.760 and this is a good length for us to work with 00:05:08.760 --> 00:05:09.900 for a zigzag stitch. 00:05:09.900 --> 00:05:12.780 And again, when you use a serger or an overlock machine, 00:05:12.780 --> 00:05:16.260 it's gonna lock all these up because with any woven fabric, 00:05:16.260 --> 00:05:18.330 you're gonna get loose threads like this 00:05:18.330 --> 00:05:19.800 if you just lightly tug on it. 00:05:19.800 --> 00:05:20.633 We don't want that. 00:05:20.633 --> 00:05:21.466 So I'm gonna show you 00:05:21.466 --> 00:05:23.490 how to clean this up without a serger 00:05:23.490 --> 00:05:26.850 so that you've got nice clean seams on the inside. 00:05:26.850 --> 00:05:28.260 Now the first part of overlocking 00:05:28.260 --> 00:05:30.210 with a zigzag stitch is you have to figure out 00:05:30.210 --> 00:05:32.430 where your zigzag stitch is on your machine. 00:05:32.430 --> 00:05:34.050 This has a digital touch screen, 00:05:34.050 --> 00:05:37.410 so I know this is my zigzag stitch here. 00:05:37.410 --> 00:05:41.580 And what I want to do is I'm gonna modify the zigzag stitch. 00:05:41.580 --> 00:05:44.640 So this tells me how wide the stitch is gonna be, 00:05:44.640 --> 00:05:47.310 and this tells me how long the stitch is gonna be. 00:05:47.310 --> 00:05:49.290 So I want this to be as wide as possible, 00:05:49.290 --> 00:05:52.020 which I think is seven millimeters wide. 00:05:52.020 --> 00:05:56.640 And I'm gonna keep this at about 1.6 millimeters in length 00:05:56.640 --> 00:05:59.430 and you'll kind of see how that looks as we do this. 00:05:59.430 --> 00:06:03.210 Now that we have our zigzag set the way that we want it to, 00:06:03.210 --> 00:06:04.110 the way this is gonna work 00:06:04.110 --> 00:06:06.390 is we're gonna do one stitch off the fabric 00:06:06.390 --> 00:06:09.570 and then one stitch on the fabric but I want to start on. 00:06:09.570 --> 00:06:13.050 Currently my needle is on the right side of my machine, 00:06:13.050 --> 00:06:15.420 so I'm gonna use my hand wheel to go all the way down 00:06:15.420 --> 00:06:16.253 and when this comes up, 00:06:16.253 --> 00:06:18.933 it's gonna snap to the left like that. 00:06:19.890 --> 00:06:24.000 So now what I want to do is our first stitch is gonna start 00:06:24.000 --> 00:06:25.950 on the fabric, 00:06:25.950 --> 00:06:27.510 and I'm gonna use my hand wheel to make sure 00:06:27.510 --> 00:06:31.890 that the second stitch is going off the edge of that fabric. 00:06:31.890 --> 00:06:33.540 When I go all the way down, 00:06:33.540 --> 00:06:36.780 it should just barely be off like that. 00:06:36.780 --> 00:06:39.160 So as I do a front stitch 00:06:40.260 --> 00:06:42.780 and a back stitch, I'm gonna go all the way off the edge, 00:06:42.780 --> 00:06:44.250 almost off the edge. 00:06:44.250 --> 00:06:46.680 Alright, so as I follow the seam, what's gonna happen 00:06:46.680 --> 00:06:50.430 is every other stitch is gonna go off the edge of the fabric 00:06:50.430 --> 00:06:53.610 and it's gonna lock any frayed 00:06:53.610 --> 00:06:56.730 or loose threads to the inside of that seam 00:06:56.730 --> 00:06:58.230 so that it stays nice and clean, 00:06:58.230 --> 00:07:01.773 kind of like an overlock machine, but much more simplified. 00:07:02.820 --> 00:07:06.240 And I'm gonna just go all the way down from the edge 00:07:06.240 --> 00:07:09.023 of the sleeve all the way down to the bottom of the shirt. 00:07:13.350 --> 00:07:14.700 Alright, so as I get to the bottom, 00:07:14.700 --> 00:07:16.290 I'm gonna cut my thread 00:07:16.290 --> 00:07:18.510 and you should have something that looks like this. 00:07:18.510 --> 00:07:20.730 And this zigzag is going to keep all 00:07:20.730 --> 00:07:22.830 of this raw fabric from fraying, 00:07:22.830 --> 00:07:26.610 and it doesn't look quite as pretty as a serge seam, 00:07:26.610 --> 00:07:28.380 but it will keep your fabric from fraying 00:07:28.380 --> 00:07:29.790 and you're not gonna get loose threads 00:07:29.790 --> 00:07:33.240 or not nearly as many if you didn't do this at all. 00:07:33.240 --> 00:07:34.650 So I'm gonna clean this up a little bit 00:07:34.650 --> 00:07:36.510 and then I'll show you what's next. 00:07:36.510 --> 00:07:37.410 Alright, so when you're done, 00:07:37.410 --> 00:07:38.850 you should have something that looks like this. 00:07:38.850 --> 00:07:40.110 And I know it looks kind of messy, 00:07:40.110 --> 00:07:43.140 but all I need to do is just trim off any bulk right there 00:07:43.140 --> 00:07:44.880 in any loose threads. 00:07:44.880 --> 00:07:46.936 And if I pull this real tight, 00:07:46.936 --> 00:07:51.900 the hem should actually kind of start to reform by itself. 00:07:51.900 --> 00:07:54.210 And I'm just gonna kind of tuck that in. 00:07:54.210 --> 00:07:56.280 And then I'm gonna press this with my iron 00:07:56.280 --> 00:07:59.610 and it should just kind of line up with the previous hem 00:07:59.610 --> 00:08:02.463 that was in there before we took it apart like that. 00:08:03.420 --> 00:08:06.420 Okay, so I'm just pressing our rolled hem back into shape 00:08:06.420 --> 00:08:09.150 just like it was before we opened this up and tailored it. 00:08:09.150 --> 00:08:10.590 And I'm just gonna do a start 00:08:10.590 --> 00:08:13.230 and back stitch here, stitch across the rolled hem 00:08:13.230 --> 00:08:16.080 and end here by doing another back stitch. 00:08:16.080 --> 00:08:18.090 And that's gonna close that up. 00:08:18.090 --> 00:08:20.190 We're gonna do this on both the side seams 00:08:20.190 --> 00:08:21.180 and both the sleeves 00:08:21.180 --> 00:08:24.750 and then we are actually done with tailoring our shirt. 00:08:24.750 --> 00:08:27.450 Okay, so here is how our new hem looks 00:08:27.450 --> 00:08:30.720 as we just kind of restitched that together. 00:08:30.720 --> 00:08:33.720 And I'm just going to trim any loose threads 00:08:33.720 --> 00:08:35.520 that we have from the outside first. 00:08:35.520 --> 00:08:38.340 And then I'm gonna flip this and look at the inside. 00:08:38.340 --> 00:08:43.113 And I'm gonna trim any loose threads from the inside. 00:08:44.010 --> 00:08:45.630 And when you're kind of recovering 00:08:45.630 --> 00:08:48.090 or repairing stitches, it's usually a good idea 00:08:48.090 --> 00:08:50.460 to use some kind of a fabric glue. 00:08:50.460 --> 00:08:52.170 So I'm gonna use some fray check here. 00:08:52.170 --> 00:08:55.860 And I'm gonna put a couple of drops there where we started 00:08:55.860 --> 00:08:57.780 and ended those stitches. 00:08:57.780 --> 00:08:59.670 Alright, so now that we got some fray check on there, 00:08:59.670 --> 00:09:01.620 that's gonna look nice and clean on the inside 00:09:01.620 --> 00:09:03.090 and the outside, just like that. 00:09:03.090 --> 00:09:04.830 And it's not gonna fall apart in the wash 00:09:04.830 --> 00:09:06.420 or anything like that. 00:09:06.420 --> 00:09:09.180 Alright, now before we try on our new tailored shirt, 00:09:09.180 --> 00:09:12.900 I did mention that I was gonna just quickly go over 00:09:12.900 --> 00:09:15.840 how you would do this with a long sleeve dress shirt. 00:09:15.840 --> 00:09:17.370 And I'm not even gonna do a full demo 00:09:17.370 --> 00:09:18.600 'cause I don't need to. 00:09:18.600 --> 00:09:20.010 But if you were tailoring 00:09:20.010 --> 00:09:23.040 a long sleeve dress shirt like this with a cuff, 00:09:23.040 --> 00:09:25.140 you would do everything exactly the same 00:09:25.140 --> 00:09:26.490 where you unhemmed the bottom 00:09:26.490 --> 00:09:29.670 and then you're gonna stitch up through the armpit here. 00:09:29.670 --> 00:09:33.180 And then when you got close to your cuff, 00:09:33.180 --> 00:09:36.270 what you would do is you would follow this one inch or so 00:09:36.270 --> 00:09:38.070 or whatever you end up tailoring. 00:09:38.070 --> 00:09:40.020 And then as you get close to the cuff, you get closer 00:09:40.020 --> 00:09:42.120 and closer to your original seam 00:09:42.120 --> 00:09:43.410 and you're just gonna blend in 00:09:43.410 --> 00:09:46.020 with the original seam about right here 00:09:46.020 --> 00:09:48.300 so that it's completely seamless. 00:09:48.300 --> 00:09:51.480 You'd end up trimming out any extra fabric and then serging 00:09:51.480 --> 00:09:54.450 or zigzagging over that raw edge like that. 00:09:54.450 --> 00:09:56.310 Now after you've tailored your dress shirt, 00:09:56.310 --> 00:09:58.440 if you find that the cuff is still too big 00:09:58.440 --> 00:10:02.880 around your wrist, all you'd have to do is take your button, 00:10:02.880 --> 00:10:06.000 pop out the stitches, move it in about half an inch 00:10:06.000 --> 00:10:07.590 or an inch, or however much you need 00:10:07.590 --> 00:10:11.910 to resow your button a little bit into the cuff right there. 00:10:11.910 --> 00:10:14.910 And everything is gonna work out perfectly just like it did 00:10:14.910 --> 00:10:17.250 with the other shirt that we just finished. 00:10:17.250 --> 00:10:19.530 Okay, so as I try this on, I can tell 00:10:19.530 --> 00:10:21.090 that this is fitting a lot better. 00:10:21.090 --> 00:10:24.120 It's not quite as dramatic as the t-shirt that we did, 00:10:24.120 --> 00:10:27.960 but as I look at my sleeve, my armpit, down the flank 00:10:27.960 --> 00:10:30.210 and around the hips, it feels a little bit tighter 00:10:30.210 --> 00:10:31.043 and more narrow. 00:10:31.043 --> 00:10:32.100 So if it looks like I'm wearing 00:10:32.100 --> 00:10:35.400 a custom handmade tailored shirt, 00:10:35.400 --> 00:10:37.320 that's exactly what I'm wearing. 00:10:37.320 --> 00:10:39.780 Hopefully this helped you guys tailor your own shirts 00:10:39.780 --> 00:10:40.890 or dress shirts. 00:10:40.890 --> 00:10:41.723 If you have any questions, 00:10:41.723 --> 00:10:43.380 please let me know in the comments. 00:10:43.380 --> 00:10:45.060 Otherwise, thank you so much for watching. 00:10:45.060 --> 00:10:46.447 Thank all of you for your support 00:10:46.447 --> 00:10:48.723 and I will see you in the next video.