0:00:03.560,0:00:09.430
[Music]

0:00:14.400,0:00:17.439
so yeah luckily the climber survived

0:00:17.439,0:00:19.960
this incident happened last year and now

0:00:19.960,0:00:23.160
I had an opportunity to talk to her he's

0:00:23.160,0:00:25.560
our coach so I trusted them but before

0:00:25.560,0:00:27.439
that I hope that for every climber

0:00:27.439,0:00:30.000
watching it is immediately clear that it

0:00:30.000,0:00:32.399
was a Blay's mistake however what I

0:00:32.399,0:00:35.200
wanted to do is to look into the details

0:00:35.200,0:00:37.520
so I upscaled the footage and looked

0:00:37.520,0:00:39.879
frame by frame did some pixel peeping to

0:00:39.879,0:00:42.120
see what else can be learned from this

0:00:42.120,0:00:44.879
experience and there is quite a bit to

0:00:44.879,0:00:47.840
uncover so I hope that we can stay

0:00:47.840,0:00:50.559
somewhat civil in the comment section

0:00:50.559,0:00:53.520
because it is a quite sensitive topic so

0:00:53.520,0:00:55.680
Sara is a professional climber from

0:00:55.680,0:00:58.280
Saudi Arabia and she was on a training

0:00:58.280,0:01:01.160
camp with French coach is to prepare for

0:01:01.160,0:01:04.280
upcoming World Cup The Climb there that

0:01:04.280,0:01:07.320
was the the warm up for me oh no it was

0:01:07.320,0:01:10.479
the first one wow the first climb of the

0:01:10.479,0:01:13.640
day no this is what I do always I go to

0:01:13.640,0:01:17.200
climb and then I fall just to get rid of

0:01:17.200,0:01:19.560
fear of falling yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah

0:01:19.560,0:01:22.439
so a routine fear of falling training

0:01:22.439,0:01:26.439
ended up in broken legs and spine now

0:01:26.439,0:01:28.640
for everyone new to the sport or for

0:01:28.640,0:01:30.640
those who still needs a rem reminder

0:01:30.640,0:01:33.520
petzel who makes grigory the device used

0:01:33.520,0:01:36.680
in the incident is recommending to give

0:01:36.680,0:01:38.000
slack like

0:01:38.000,0:01:41.320
this or alternatively if you want to

0:01:41.320,0:01:44.640
give slack fast you can press on grigory

0:01:44.640,0:01:47.640
scam and give slack like this however

0:01:47.640,0:01:50.439
you must maintain at least three fingers

0:01:50.439,0:01:53.200
on the Rope at all times and I already

0:01:53.200,0:01:55.119
made multiple videos showing what

0:01:55.119,0:01:57.000
happens if you don't follow these

0:01:57.000,0:01:59.200
recommendations and press on the cam

0:01:59.200,0:02:01.520
with f holding the

0:02:01.520,0:02:04.399
rope and also in some cases you don't

0:02:04.399,0:02:06.759
even need to press on the cam the gri

0:02:06.759,0:02:09.720
can still slip now despite all of that

0:02:09.720,0:02:11.680
throughout the years I've seen so much

0:02:11.680,0:02:13.959
of No Hands belaying Everybody Knows

0:02:13.959,0:02:16.560
whose clip I should insert here or all

0:02:16.560,0:02:18.959
kinds of Dev gripping techniques you can

0:02:18.959,0:02:21.959
imagine so that at least her coach was

0:02:21.959,0:02:24.200
kind of holding the Rope between his

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index and middle finger but like come on

0:02:26.760,0:02:28.760
how much grip do you have when you hold

0:02:28.760,0:02:31.400
the Rope like this it's so easy for the

0:02:31.400,0:02:36.440
Rope to fall out compared to what petel

0:02:37.160,0:02:39.640
recommends and on top of that he was

0:02:39.640,0:02:42.640
both giving and taking slack with the

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same hand now on a first glance assuming

0:02:45.879,0:02:47.920
he would have good proper grip on the

0:02:47.920,0:02:50.159
brake side of the Rope giving slack and

0:02:50.159,0:02:52.680
then taking slack like this wouldn't be

0:02:52.680,0:02:56.159
a big problem however that teaches you a

0:02:56.159,0:02:58.720
wrong muscle memory and as we will see

0:02:58.720,0:03:00.800
later that actually caused a huge

0:03:00.800,0:03:02.519
problem and another a bit of

0:03:02.519,0:03:04.680
controversial topic is the usage of

0:03:04.680,0:03:06.840
gloves it's really not that comfortable

0:03:06.840,0:03:09.159
to hook on the grigory slip with the

0:03:09.159,0:03:11.519
index finger when you have gloves and

0:03:11.519,0:03:14.840
his gloves looked really thick so maybe

0:03:14.840,0:03:17.319
even gripping the Rope like this is not

0:03:17.319,0:03:19.560
comfortable with such gloves maybe

0:03:19.560,0:03:22.319
that's how he invented this dangerous

0:03:22.319,0:03:24.440
scissoring technique to hold the Rope

0:03:24.440,0:03:27.000
like this so personally I'm not a big

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fan of using gloves with assisted

0:03:29.280,0:03:31.640
belaying devices because I lose the

0:03:31.640,0:03:34.519
feeling of the Rope I lose the dexterity

0:03:34.519,0:03:36.400
and all these devices need is like

0:03:36.400,0:03:38.760
couple of hundred G tugging on the rope

0:03:38.760,0:03:41.360
for device to lock even if you're

0:03:41.360,0:03:43.599
pressing on the cam and you're holding

0:03:43.599,0:03:47.000
the Rope it will still lock and you

0:03:47.000,0:03:49.040
don't need to hold much and the Rope is

0:03:49.040,0:03:51.640
not going to fly and burn your hand all

0:03:51.640,0:03:54.239
right the next problem that many pointed

0:03:54.239,0:03:56.840
out was that the bler was not paying

0:03:56.840,0:03:59.159
attention to the climber actually I

0:03:59.159,0:04:01.840
watched the whole climb many many times

0:04:01.840,0:04:03.840
it was a warm-up climb and in the

0:04:03.840,0:04:07.000
beginning the coach did watch her climb

0:04:07.000,0:04:08.959
and in general he looked like an

0:04:08.959,0:04:10.959
experienced belayer who had a good

0:04:10.959,0:04:13.040
situational awareness and slack

0:04:13.040,0:04:15.599
management however once she passed

0:04:15.599,0:04:18.600
midpoint of the climb he stopped paying

0:04:18.600,0:04:21.600
attention and on top of that he was also

0:04:21.600,0:04:23.880
distracted by the conversation with the

0:04:23.880,0:04:26.120
other coach I actually heard them

0:04:26.120,0:04:28.320
talking the whole time but I didn't say

0:04:28.320,0:04:30.280
anything cuz I trust his

0:04:30.280,0:04:33.840
years of experience and he's our coach

0:04:33.840,0:04:36.440
so I trusted him I don't let anyone talk

0:04:36.440,0:04:38.680
while bling me I'm really careful with

0:04:38.680,0:04:43.000
bling and I always check my BL so now

0:04:43.000,0:04:45.440
okay I understand it's a warm up and

0:04:45.440,0:04:47.720
you've been belaying for thousands of

0:04:47.720,0:04:50.600
hours in these situations so looking up

0:04:50.600,0:04:53.479
all the time would simply kill your neck

0:04:53.479,0:04:56.280
however clipping is extremely critical

0:04:56.280,0:04:58.479
moment because we are actively disabling

0:04:58.479,0:05:00.880
the safety of the G so it's super

0:05:00.880,0:05:03.320
important to look up during these

0:05:03.320,0:05:06.199
moments or you can simply use the blay

0:05:06.199,0:05:08.759
glasses and not have these neck issues

0:05:08.759,0:05:11.479
anymore and what really pisses me off is

0:05:11.479,0:05:14.240
that it was not one coach in that

0:05:14.240,0:05:16.560
situation three of them actually there

0:05:16.560,0:05:20.280
was three coaches one belaying and two

0:05:20.280,0:05:23.080
others were talking to that one seeing

0:05:23.080,0:05:25.199
the bad baying and we said

0:05:25.199,0:05:29.199
nothing yeah

0:05:32.680,0:05:34.319
and that's how we arrived to the

0:05:34.319,0:05:37.199
critical point she was clipping one

0:05:37.199,0:05:39.960
before the last Quick Draw and the

0:05:39.960,0:05:43.319
blayer intuitively probably felt that

0:05:43.319,0:05:46.520
there is more of the route to be climbed

0:05:46.520,0:05:49.120
but she took her test fall the Rope

0:05:49.120,0:05:52.080
started to get tight and the grigory

0:05:52.080,0:05:55.720
started to engage he probably thought

0:05:55.720,0:05:58.080
that she's climbing up and she needs

0:05:58.080,0:06:01.240
more slack so he pushed down on the

0:06:01.240,0:06:04.360
grigory to disengage the cam and tried

0:06:04.360,0:06:08.440
to give more slack and to his surprise

0:06:08.440,0:06:12.120
the Rope popped out of his left hand and

0:06:12.120,0:06:14.520
From This Moment till the ground there

0:06:14.520,0:06:18.680
was less than one second he desperately

0:06:18.680,0:06:22.080
tried to grab the rope with the left

0:06:22.080,0:06:26.000
hand remember the muscle memory so yeah

0:06:26.000,0:06:28.560
he only managed to do so when it was

0:06:28.560,0:06:30.560
already too late

0:06:30.560,0:06:33.280
and on top of all the mistakes it was

0:06:33.280,0:06:36.800
really not her lucky day she landed

0:06:36.800,0:06:40.319
right in front of the crash pads so yeah

0:06:40.319,0:06:42.919
maybe every gym owner can also learn

0:06:42.919,0:06:45.319
something from this now some of you

0:06:45.319,0:06:48.039
might think why he simply did not let go

0:06:48.039,0:06:51.720
the grigri well let me show you at this

0:06:51.720,0:06:53.880
moment he pressed on the cam to give the

0:06:53.880,0:06:56.000
slack and now I'm going to play the rest

0:06:56.000,0:07:00.360
of the clip in real time speed ready

0:07:00.360,0:07:05.000
3 2 one

0:07:05.000,0:07:07.840
done you go there as an athlete and you

0:07:07.840,0:07:11.919
trust the coaches and uh and you don't

0:07:11.919,0:07:14.960
even think that something like that can

0:07:14.960,0:07:19.000
happen and yeah how how are you how are

0:07:19.000,0:07:21.879
you recovering now it's good it's good

0:07:21.879,0:07:24.360
it's going really well uh now I'm fourth

0:07:24.360,0:07:27.759
month after I start walking finally okay

0:07:27.759,0:07:29.960
uh cuz the first three months was wasn't

0:07:29.960,0:07:33.199
I couldn't walk both feet was broken so

0:07:33.199,0:07:35.280
I couldn't but now it's going really

0:07:35.280,0:07:37.479
well do you think you will get back to

0:07:37.479,0:07:40.319
climbing yeah for sure I'll go back to

0:07:40.319,0:07:43.960
climbing nice yeah but take time even my

0:07:43.960,0:07:46.800
my back and foot my left foot I have to

0:07:46.800,0:07:49.199
do another surgery just to remove the

0:07:49.199,0:07:54.960
plates they put on what a story huh yeah

0:07:54.960,0:07:57.319
man you're such a strong person you're

0:07:57.319,0:07:59.080
smiling while telling the story is

0:07:59.080,0:08:01.440
incredible

0:08:02.000,0:08:04.080
I have nothing else to do I cried a lot

0:08:04.080,0:08:07.680
so I'm done with crying I I can't

0:08:07.680,0:08:11.080
believe it so I'm I'm laughing at

0:08:11.080,0:08:15.720
it wow I really hope that uh you will

0:08:15.720,0:08:18.280
come out of this story much

0:08:18.280,0:08:20.360
stronger and

0:08:20.360,0:08:23.680
uh hopefully even climb much harder

0:08:23.680,0:08:25.440
after all of

0:08:25.440,0:08:27.479
this you so

0:08:27.479,0:08:31.000
much so yeah a lot of things had to

0:08:31.000,0:08:33.599
align for this incident to happen bad

0:08:33.599,0:08:36.360
baying technique distracted belayer

0:08:36.360,0:08:39.760
giving slack midall however this is not

0:08:39.760,0:08:42.360
a unique case after Sara posted her

0:08:42.360,0:08:44.360
story on Instagram a lot of people

0:08:44.360,0:08:46.480
reached out to her and told that They

0:08:46.480,0:08:49.279
too had similar situations so the only

0:08:49.279,0:08:52.200
unique thing about this one is that it

0:08:52.200,0:08:54.240
was actually captured on camera and the

0:08:54.240,0:08:56.519
most important that all of these can be

0:08:56.519,0:08:59.120
easily avoided by simply following pel's

0:08:59.120,0:09:00.880
recommend recommendations of how to use

0:09:00.880,0:09:03.120
grigory instead of being creative or

0:09:03.120,0:09:05.000
thinking that I've been belaying for

0:09:05.000,0:09:06.880
multiple decades and I've never seen

0:09:06.880,0:09:10.240
Gregory fail because I think that this

0:09:10.240,0:09:13.959
coach learned his mistakes in a hard

0:09:13.959,0:09:16.920
way yeah so if you want to send some

0:09:16.920,0:09:20.360
love uh this is sar's Instagram and uh

0:09:20.360,0:09:22.680
every time I make a new grigory video I

0:09:22.680,0:09:24.279
think that this is going to be the last

0:09:24.279,0:09:26.880
G video I'm making and I have the same

0:09:26.880,0:09:30.839
feeling now but it's kind of deu feel

0:09:30.839,0:09:32.200
so let's

0:09:32.200,0:09:36.399
see climb safe