[Script Info] Title: [Events] Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text Dialogue: 0,0:00:03.56,0:00:09.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:00:14.40,0:00:17.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so yeah luckily the climber survived Dialogue: 0,0:00:17.44,0:00:19.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this incident happened last year and now Dialogue: 0,0:00:19.96,0:00:23.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I had an opportunity to talk to her he's Dialogue: 0,0:00:23.16,0:00:25.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,our coach so I trusted them but before Dialogue: 0,0:00:25.56,0:00:27.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that I hope that for every climber Dialogue: 0,0:00:27.44,0:00:30.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,watching it is immediately clear that it Dialogue: 0,0:00:30.00,0:00:32.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was a Blay's mistake however what I Dialogue: 0,0:00:32.40,0:00:35.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wanted to do is to look into the details Dialogue: 0,0:00:35.20,0:00:37.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so I upscaled the footage and looked Dialogue: 0,0:00:37.52,0:00:39.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,frame by frame did some pixel peeping to Dialogue: 0,0:00:39.88,0:00:42.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,see what else can be learned from this Dialogue: 0,0:00:42.12,0:00:44.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,experience and there is quite a bit to Dialogue: 0,0:00:44.88,0:00:47.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,uncover so I hope that we can stay Dialogue: 0,0:00:47.84,0:00:50.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,somewhat civil in the comment section Dialogue: 0,0:00:50.56,0:00:53.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because it is a quite sensitive topic so Dialogue: 0,0:00:53.52,0:00:55.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Sara is a professional climber from Dialogue: 0,0:00:55.68,0:00:58.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Saudi Arabia and she was on a training Dialogue: 0,0:00:58.28,0:01:01.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,camp with French coach is to prepare for Dialogue: 0,0:01:01.16,0:01:04.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,upcoming World Cup The Climb there that Dialogue: 0,0:01:04.28,0:01:07.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was the the warm up for me oh no it was Dialogue: 0,0:01:07.32,0:01:10.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the first one wow the first climb of the Dialogue: 0,0:01:10.48,0:01:13.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,day no this is what I do always I go to Dialogue: 0,0:01:13.64,0:01:17.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climb and then I fall just to get rid of Dialogue: 0,0:01:17.20,0:01:19.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fear of falling yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah Dialogue: 0,0:01:19.56,0:01:22.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so a routine fear of falling training Dialogue: 0,0:01:22.44,0:01:26.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ended up in broken legs and spine now Dialogue: 0,0:01:26.44,0:01:28.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for everyone new to the sport or for Dialogue: 0,0:01:28.64,0:01:30.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,those who still needs a rem reminder Dialogue: 0,0:01:30.64,0:01:33.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,petzel who makes grigory the device used Dialogue: 0,0:01:33.52,0:01:36.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in the incident is recommending to give Dialogue: 0,0:01:36.68,0:01:38.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slack like Dialogue: 0,0:01:38.00,0:01:41.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this or alternatively if you want to Dialogue: 0,0:01:41.32,0:01:44.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,give slack fast you can press on grigory Dialogue: 0,0:01:44.64,0:01:47.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,scam and give slack like this however Dialogue: 0,0:01:47.64,0:01:50.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you must maintain at least three fingers Dialogue: 0,0:01:50.44,0:01:53.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the Rope at all times and I already Dialogue: 0,0:01:53.20,0:01:55.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,made multiple videos showing what Dialogue: 0,0:01:55.12,0:01:57.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,happens if you don't follow these Dialogue: 0,0:01:57.00,0:01:59.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,recommendations and press on the cam Dialogue: 0,0:01:59.20,0:02:01.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with f holding the Dialogue: 0,0:02:01.52,0:02:04.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope and also in some cases you don't Dialogue: 0,0:02:04.40,0:02:06.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,even need to press on the cam the gri Dialogue: 0,0:02:06.76,0:02:09.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,can still slip now despite all of that Dialogue: 0,0:02:09.72,0:02:11.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,throughout the years I've seen so much Dialogue: 0,0:02:11.68,0:02:13.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of No Hands belaying Everybody Knows Dialogue: 0,0:02:13.96,0:02:16.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,whose clip I should insert here or all Dialogue: 0,0:02:16.56,0:02:18.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,kinds of Dev gripping techniques you can Dialogue: 0,0:02:18.96,0:02:21.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,imagine so that at least her coach was Dialogue: 0,0:02:21.96,0:02:24.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,kind of holding the Rope between his Dialogue: 0,0:02:24.20,0:02:26.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,index and middle finger but like come on Dialogue: 0,0:02:26.76,0:02:28.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how much grip do you have when you hold Dialogue: 0,0:02:28.76,0:02:31.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the Rope like this it's so easy for the Dialogue: 0,0:02:31.40,0:02:36.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Rope to fall out compared to what petel Dialogue: 0,0:02:37.16,0:02:39.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,recommends and on top of that he was Dialogue: 0,0:02:39.64,0:02:42.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,both giving and taking slack with the Dialogue: 0,0:02:42.64,0:02:45.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,same hand now on a first glance assuming Dialogue: 0,0:02:45.88,0:02:47.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,he would have good proper grip on the Dialogue: 0,0:02:47.92,0:02:50.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,brake side of the Rope giving slack and Dialogue: 0,0:02:50.16,0:02:52.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then taking slack like this wouldn't be Dialogue: 0,0:02:52.68,0:02:56.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a big problem however that teaches you a Dialogue: 0,0:02:56.16,0:02:58.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wrong muscle memory and as we will see Dialogue: 0,0:02:58.72,0:03:00.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,later that actually caused a huge Dialogue: 0,0:03:00.80,0:03:02.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,problem and another a bit of Dialogue: 0,0:03:02.52,0:03:04.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,controversial topic is the usage of Dialogue: 0,0:03:04.68,0:03:06.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,gloves it's really not that comfortable Dialogue: 0,0:03:06.84,0:03:09.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to hook on the grigory slip with the Dialogue: 0,0:03:09.16,0:03:11.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,index finger when you have gloves and Dialogue: 0,0:03:11.52,0:03:14.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,his gloves looked really thick so maybe Dialogue: 0,0:03:14.84,0:03:17.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,even gripping the Rope like this is not Dialogue: 0,0:03:17.32,0:03:19.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,comfortable with such gloves maybe Dialogue: 0,0:03:19.56,0:03:22.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's how he invented this dangerous Dialogue: 0,0:03:22.32,0:03:24.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,scissoring technique to hold the Rope Dialogue: 0,0:03:24.44,0:03:27.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like this so personally I'm not a big Dialogue: 0,0:03:27.00,0:03:29.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fan of using gloves with assisted Dialogue: 0,0:03:29.28,0:03:31.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,belaying devices because I lose the Dialogue: 0,0:03:31.64,0:03:34.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,feeling of the Rope I lose the dexterity Dialogue: 0,0:03:34.52,0:03:36.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and all these devices need is like Dialogue: 0,0:03:36.40,0:03:38.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,couple of hundred G tugging on the rope Dialogue: 0,0:03:38.76,0:03:41.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for device to lock even if you're Dialogue: 0,0:03:41.36,0:03:43.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pressing on the cam and you're holding Dialogue: 0,0:03:43.60,0:03:47.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the Rope it will still lock and you Dialogue: 0,0:03:47.00,0:03:49.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,don't need to hold much and the Rope is Dialogue: 0,0:03:49.04,0:03:51.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not going to fly and burn your hand all Dialogue: 0,0:03:51.64,0:03:54.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,right the next problem that many pointed Dialogue: 0,0:03:54.24,0:03:56.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,out was that the bler was not paying Dialogue: 0,0:03:56.84,0:03:59.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,attention to the climber actually I Dialogue: 0,0:03:59.16,0:04:01.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,watched the whole climb many many times Dialogue: 0,0:04:01.84,0:04:03.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it was a warm-up climb and in the Dialogue: 0,0:04:03.84,0:04:07.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,beginning the coach did watch her climb Dialogue: 0,0:04:07.00,0:04:08.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and in general he looked like an Dialogue: 0,0:04:08.96,0:04:10.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,experienced belayer who had a good Dialogue: 0,0:04:10.96,0:04:13.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,situational awareness and slack Dialogue: 0,0:04:13.04,0:04:15.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,management however once she passed Dialogue: 0,0:04:15.60,0:04:18.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,midpoint of the climb he stopped paying Dialogue: 0,0:04:18.60,0:04:21.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,attention and on top of that he was also Dialogue: 0,0:04:21.60,0:04:23.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,distracted by the conversation with the Dialogue: 0,0:04:23.88,0:04:26.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,other coach I actually heard them Dialogue: 0,0:04:26.12,0:04:28.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,talking the whole time but I didn't say Dialogue: 0,0:04:28.32,0:04:30.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,anything cuz I trust his Dialogue: 0,0:04:30.28,0:04:33.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,years of experience and he's our coach Dialogue: 0,0:04:33.84,0:04:36.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so I trusted him I don't let anyone talk Dialogue: 0,0:04:36.44,0:04:38.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,while bling me I'm really careful with Dialogue: 0,0:04:38.68,0:04:43.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bling and I always check my BL so now Dialogue: 0,0:04:43.00,0:04:45.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay I understand it's a warm up and Dialogue: 0,0:04:45.44,0:04:47.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you've been belaying for thousands of Dialogue: 0,0:04:47.72,0:04:50.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hours in these situations so looking up Dialogue: 0,0:04:50.60,0:04:53.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all the time would simply kill your neck Dialogue: 0,0:04:53.48,0:04:56.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however clipping is extremely critical Dialogue: 0,0:04:56.28,0:04:58.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,moment because we are actively disabling Dialogue: 0,0:04:58.48,0:05:00.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the safety of the G so it's super Dialogue: 0,0:05:00.88,0:05:03.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,important to look up during these Dialogue: 0,0:05:03.32,0:05:06.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,moments or you can simply use the blay Dialogue: 0,0:05:06.20,0:05:08.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,glasses and not have these neck issues Dialogue: 0,0:05:08.76,0:05:11.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,anymore and what really pisses me off is Dialogue: 0,0:05:11.48,0:05:14.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that it was not one coach in that Dialogue: 0,0:05:14.24,0:05:16.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,situation three of them actually there Dialogue: 0,0:05:16.56,0:05:20.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was three coaches one belaying and two Dialogue: 0,0:05:20.28,0:05:23.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,others were talking to that one seeing Dialogue: 0,0:05:23.08,0:05:25.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the bad baying and we said Dialogue: 0,0:05:25.20,0:05:29.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nothing yeah Dialogue: 0,0:05:32.68,0:05:34.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and that's how we arrived to the Dialogue: 0,0:05:34.32,0:05:37.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,critical point she was clipping one Dialogue: 0,0:05:37.20,0:05:39.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,before the last Quick Draw and the Dialogue: 0,0:05:39.96,0:05:43.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,blayer intuitively probably felt that Dialogue: 0,0:05:43.32,0:05:46.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is more of the route to be climbed Dialogue: 0,0:05:46.52,0:05:49.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but she took her test fall the Rope Dialogue: 0,0:05:49.12,0:05:52.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,started to get tight and the grigory Dialogue: 0,0:05:52.08,0:05:55.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,started to engage he probably thought Dialogue: 0,0:05:55.72,0:05:58.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that she's climbing up and she needs Dialogue: 0,0:05:58.08,0:06:01.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,more slack so he pushed down on the Dialogue: 0,0:06:01.24,0:06:04.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,grigory to disengage the cam and tried Dialogue: 0,0:06:04.36,0:06:08.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to give more slack and to his surprise Dialogue: 0,0:06:08.44,0:06:12.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the Rope popped out of his left hand and Dialogue: 0,0:06:12.12,0:06:14.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,From This Moment till the ground there Dialogue: 0,0:06:14.52,0:06:18.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was less than one second he desperately Dialogue: 0,0:06:18.68,0:06:22.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tried to grab the rope with the left Dialogue: 0,0:06:22.08,0:06:26.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand remember the muscle memory so yeah Dialogue: 0,0:06:26.00,0:06:28.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,he only managed to do so when it was Dialogue: 0,0:06:28.56,0:06:30.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,already too late Dialogue: 0,0:06:30.56,0:06:33.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and on top of all the mistakes it was Dialogue: 0,0:06:33.28,0:06:36.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,really not her lucky day she landed Dialogue: 0,0:06:36.80,0:06:40.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,right in front of the crash pads so yeah Dialogue: 0,0:06:40.32,0:06:42.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,maybe every gym owner can also learn Dialogue: 0,0:06:42.92,0:06:45.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,something from this now some of you Dialogue: 0,0:06:45.32,0:06:48.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,might think why he simply did not let go Dialogue: 0,0:06:48.04,0:06:51.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the grigri well let me show you at this Dialogue: 0,0:06:51.72,0:06:53.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,moment he pressed on the cam to give the Dialogue: 0,0:06:53.88,0:06:56.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slack and now I'm going to play the rest Dialogue: 0,0:06:56.00,0:07:00.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of the clip in real time speed ready Dialogue: 0,0:07:00.36,0:07:05.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,3 2 one Dialogue: 0,0:07:05.00,0:07:07.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,done you go there as an athlete and you Dialogue: 0,0:07:07.84,0:07:11.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,trust the coaches and uh and you don't Dialogue: 0,0:07:11.92,0:07:14.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,even think that something like that can Dialogue: 0,0:07:14.96,0:07:19.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,happen and yeah how how are you how are Dialogue: 0,0:07:19.00,0:07:21.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you recovering now it's good it's good Dialogue: 0,0:07:21.88,0:07:24.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's going really well uh now I'm fourth Dialogue: 0,0:07:24.36,0:07:27.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,month after I start walking finally okay Dialogue: 0,0:07:27.76,0:07:29.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,uh cuz the first three months was wasn't Dialogue: 0,0:07:29.96,0:07:33.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I couldn't walk both feet was broken so Dialogue: 0,0:07:33.20,0:07:35.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I couldn't but now it's going really Dialogue: 0,0:07:35.28,0:07:37.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,well do you think you will get back to Dialogue: 0,0:07:37.48,0:07:40.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climbing yeah for sure I'll go back to Dialogue: 0,0:07:40.32,0:07:43.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climbing nice yeah but take time even my Dialogue: 0,0:07:43.96,0:07:46.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,my back and foot my left foot I have to Dialogue: 0,0:07:46.80,0:07:49.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,do another surgery just to remove the Dialogue: 0,0:07:49.20,0:07:54.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,plates they put on what a story huh yeah Dialogue: 0,0:07:54.96,0:07:57.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,man you're such a strong person you're Dialogue: 0,0:07:57.32,0:07:59.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,smiling while telling the story is Dialogue: 0,0:07:59.08,0:08:01.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,incredible Dialogue: 0,0:08:02.00,0:08:04.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I have nothing else to do I cried a lot Dialogue: 0,0:08:04.08,0:08:07.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so I'm done with crying I I can't Dialogue: 0,0:08:07.68,0:08:11.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,believe it so I'm I'm laughing at Dialogue: 0,0:08:11.08,0:08:15.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it wow I really hope that uh you will Dialogue: 0,0:08:15.72,0:08:18.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come out of this story much Dialogue: 0,0:08:18.28,0:08:20.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stronger and Dialogue: 0,0:08:20.36,0:08:23.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,uh hopefully even climb much harder Dialogue: 0,0:08:23.68,0:08:25.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,after all of Dialogue: 0,0:08:25.44,0:08:27.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this you so Dialogue: 0,0:08:27.48,0:08:31.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,much so yeah a lot of things had to Dialogue: 0,0:08:31.00,0:08:33.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,align for this incident to happen bad Dialogue: 0,0:08:33.60,0:08:36.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,baying technique distracted belayer Dialogue: 0,0:08:36.36,0:08:39.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,giving slack midall however this is not Dialogue: 0,0:08:39.76,0:08:42.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a unique case after Sara posted her Dialogue: 0,0:08:42.36,0:08:44.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,story on Instagram a lot of people Dialogue: 0,0:08:44.36,0:08:46.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,reached out to her and told that They Dialogue: 0,0:08:46.48,0:08:49.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,too had similar situations so the only Dialogue: 0,0:08:49.28,0:08:52.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,unique thing about this one is that it Dialogue: 0,0:08:52.20,0:08:54.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was actually captured on camera and the Dialogue: 0,0:08:54.24,0:08:56.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,most important that all of these can be Dialogue: 0,0:08:56.52,0:08:59.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,easily avoided by simply following pel's Dialogue: 0,0:08:59.12,0:09:00.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,recommend recommendations of how to use Dialogue: 0,0:09:00.88,0:09:03.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,grigory instead of being creative or Dialogue: 0,0:09:03.12,0:09:05.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thinking that I've been belaying for Dialogue: 0,0:09:05.00,0:09:06.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,multiple decades and I've never seen Dialogue: 0,0:09:06.88,0:09:10.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Gregory fail because I think that this Dialogue: 0,0:09:10.24,0:09:13.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,coach learned his mistakes in a hard Dialogue: 0,0:09:13.96,0:09:16.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,way yeah so if you want to send some Dialogue: 0,0:09:16.92,0:09:20.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,love uh this is sar's Instagram and uh Dialogue: 0,0:09:20.36,0:09:22.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,every time I make a new grigory video I Dialogue: 0,0:09:22.68,0:09:24.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,think that this is going to be the last Dialogue: 0,0:09:24.28,0:09:26.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,G video I'm making and I have the same Dialogue: 0,0:09:26.88,0:09:30.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,feeling now but it's kind of deu feel Dialogue: 0,0:09:30.84,0:09:32.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so let's Dialogue: 0,0:09:32.20,0:09:36.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,see climb safe