WEBVTT

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[Music]

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so yeah luckily the climber survived

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this incident happened last year and now

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I had an opportunity to talk to her he's

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our coach so I trusted them but before

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that I hope that for every climber

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watching it is immediately clear that it

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was a Blay's mistake however what I

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wanted to do is to look into the details

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so I upscaled the footage and looked

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frame by frame did some pixel peeping to

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see what else can be learned from this

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experience and there is quite a bit to

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uncover so I hope that we can stay

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somewhat civil in the comment section

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because it is a quite sensitive topic so

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Sara is a professional climber from

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Saudi Arabia and she was on a training

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camp with French coach is to prepare for

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upcoming World Cup The Climb there that

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was the the warm up for me oh no it was

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the first one wow the first climb of the

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day no this is what I do always I go to

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climb and then I fall just to get rid of

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fear of falling yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah

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so a routine fear of falling training

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ended up in broken legs and spine now

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for everyone new to the sport or for

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those who still needs a rem reminder

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petzel who makes grigory the device used

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in the incident is recommending to give

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slack like

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this or alternatively if you want to

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give slack fast you can press on grigory

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scam and give slack like this however

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you must maintain at least three fingers

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on the Rope at all times and I already

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made multiple videos showing what

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happens if you don't follow these

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recommendations and press on the cam

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with f holding the

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rope and also in some cases you don't

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even need to press on the cam the gri

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can still slip now despite all of that

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throughout the years I've seen so much

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of No Hands belaying Everybody Knows

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whose clip I should insert here or all

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kinds of Dev gripping techniques you can

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imagine so that at least her coach was

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kind of holding the Rope between his

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index and middle finger but like come on

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how much grip do you have when you hold

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the Rope like this it's so easy for the

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Rope to fall out compared to what petel

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recommends and on top of that he was

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both giving and taking slack with the

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same hand now on a first glance assuming

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he would have good proper grip on the

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brake side of the Rope giving slack and

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then taking slack like this wouldn't be

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a big problem however that teaches you a

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wrong muscle memory and as we will see

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later that actually caused a huge

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problem and another a bit of

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controversial topic is the usage of

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gloves it's really not that comfortable

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to hook on the grigory slip with the

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index finger when you have gloves and

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his gloves looked really thick so maybe

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even gripping the Rope like this is not

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comfortable with such gloves maybe

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that's how he invented this dangerous

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scissoring technique to hold the Rope

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like this so personally I'm not a big

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fan of using gloves with assisted

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belaying devices because I lose the

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feeling of the Rope I lose the dexterity

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and all these devices need is like

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couple of hundred G tugging on the rope

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for device to lock even if you're

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pressing on the cam and you're holding

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the Rope it will still lock and you

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don't need to hold much and the Rope is

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not going to fly and burn your hand all

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right the next problem that many pointed

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out was that the bler was not paying

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attention to the climber actually I

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watched the whole climb many many times

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it was a warm-up climb and in the

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beginning the coach did watch her climb

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and in general he looked like an

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experienced belayer who had a good

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situational awareness and slack

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management however once she passed

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midpoint of the climb he stopped paying

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attention and on top of that he was also

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distracted by the conversation with the

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other coach I actually heard them

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talking the whole time but I didn't say

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anything cuz I trust his

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years of experience and he's our coach

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so I trusted him I don't let anyone talk

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while bling me I'm really careful with

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bling and I always check my BL so now

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okay I understand it's a warm up and

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you've been belaying for thousands of

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hours in these situations so looking up

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all the time would simply kill your neck

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however clipping is extremely critical

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moment because we are actively disabling

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the safety of the G so it's super

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important to look up during these

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moments or you can simply use the blay

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glasses and not have these neck issues

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anymore and what really pisses me off is

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that it was not one coach in that

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situation three of them actually there

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was three coaches one belaying and two

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others were talking to that one seeing

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the bad baying and we said

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nothing yeah

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and that's how we arrived to the

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critical point she was clipping one

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before the last Quick Draw and the

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blayer intuitively probably felt that

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there is more of the route to be climbed

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but she took her test fall the Rope

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started to get tight and the grigory

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started to engage he probably thought

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that she's climbing up and she needs

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more slack so he pushed down on the

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grigory to disengage the cam and tried

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to give more slack and to his surprise

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the Rope popped out of his left hand and

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From This Moment till the ground there

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was less than one second he desperately

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tried to grab the rope with the left

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hand remember the muscle memory so yeah

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he only managed to do so when it was

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already too late

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and on top of all the mistakes it was

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really not her lucky day she landed

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right in front of the crash pads so yeah

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maybe every gym owner can also learn

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something from this now some of you

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might think why he simply did not let go

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the grigri well let me show you at this

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moment he pressed on the cam to give the

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slack and now I'm going to play the rest

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of the clip in real time speed ready

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3 2 one

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done you go there as an athlete and you

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trust the coaches and uh and you don't

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even think that something like that can

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happen and yeah how how are you how are

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you recovering now it's good it's good

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it's going really well uh now I'm fourth

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month after I start walking finally okay

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uh cuz the first three months was wasn't

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I couldn't walk both feet was broken so

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I couldn't but now it's going really

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well do you think you will get back to

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climbing yeah for sure I'll go back to

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climbing nice yeah but take time even my

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my back and foot my left foot I have to

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do another surgery just to remove the

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plates they put on what a story huh yeah

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man you're such a strong person you're

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smiling while telling the story is

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incredible

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I have nothing else to do I cried a lot

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so I'm done with crying I I can't

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believe it so I'm I'm laughing at

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it wow I really hope that uh you will

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come out of this story much

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stronger and

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uh hopefully even climb much harder

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after all of

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this you so

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much so yeah a lot of things had to

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align for this incident to happen bad

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baying technique distracted belayer

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giving slack midall however this is not

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a unique case after Sara posted her

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story on Instagram a lot of people

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reached out to her and told that They

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too had similar situations so the only

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unique thing about this one is that it

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was actually captured on camera and the

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most important that all of these can be

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easily avoided by simply following pel's

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recommend recommendations of how to use

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grigory instead of being creative or

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thinking that I've been belaying for

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multiple decades and I've never seen

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Gregory fail because I think that this

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coach learned his mistakes in a hard

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way yeah so if you want to send some

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love uh this is sar's Instagram and uh

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every time I make a new grigory video I

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think that this is going to be the last

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G video I'm making and I have the same

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feeling now but it's kind of deu feel

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so let's

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see climb safe