So here we are at the top of Yamadera Risshaku-ji Temple completed in 860. There is no more beautiful spot than this one in autumn an amazing view overlooking Yamagata Prefecture. And at the top of 1015 steps lies a public Japan Post box and a man who has to climb these steps almost every day to pick it up. [Music] Irasshaimase (welcome) Only In Japan (voice of Peter von Gomm) I jumped on an E3 series bullet train the Yamagata Shinkansen from Tokyo for the 2 hour 45 minute ride north the morning mist exciting me for the adventure at hand today. Yamadera north-east of Yamagata City in the mountains is a gem for off-the-beaten-path travelers, especially beautiful in autumn. Close to the JR station is an over 1000 step stairway hike to the ancient Risshaku-ji Temple or Yamadera which is directly translated at mountain temple. And at the top besides the temple serving the residents and tourists alike is a red Japan Post box With pick-up time 11am six days a week. I always wondered who climbs up here to pick it up, that's over 12,000 steps each week. A real workout. (music) And I found the man who has a most scenic and one of the most challenging postal routes perhaps in all of Japan. This is Sasahara San who has been on this route for several years. He parks at the Yamadera Post Office and then hikes up the same as tourists. Autumn here is warm in the afternoon sun, chilly in the evening perfect hiking temperature. When you're carrying mail and packages and have to climb up a mountain it's a long way. Well, it's not that far away. Just 20 or 30 minutes to climb up. The temple was founded in 860 nearly 1200 years ago. An ancient hike that now has well-maintained stone and cement steps to the top. We'll end the episode at the stunning Godaidal observation deck and an autumn view of the mountain town below. It does look much more difficult from street level though. (music) 11:59am We start the climb from under the torii gate. The real climbing in the forest starts here at the temple gate. Admission for non postal workers is 300 yen, open 9 to 5 daily. Oh really? Take it step by step, but you have to stop and look around. There's no reason to rush it even when you have a postal route. Yamadera is one of the big attractions of Tohoku. It's really nice to get out of the city. The steps up here have a lot of character built around the ancient rocks that give you a chance to look around say hi to the other travelers. There aren't that many people in the early mornings and near closing time the best time to visit and climb. We passed the Midahora Rock, worn from centuries of weather resembling a figure of Amida Buddha. We took a break at the halfway mark and I asked Sasahara San what Yamadera's attraction is to him. [Laughter] Aaahhh. The climb up is easy today - no packages. But sometimes he does have to bring them up. 12:09pm This is Niomon Gate, a scenic spot to cross from the forest to the opening top of the mountain. The Yamagata fall colors seem to start a month before Tokyo. (flute music) From we start to enter the mountain-top village where only a handful of people actually live. Even without any roads to drive up, mail needs to be picked up and dropped off like every small town around the country. "Here we go." The view is also easier to admire. We're about 300m above sea level. The mail must be delivered no matter what. So it is true almost nothing stops the Post Office. We've reached the public mail box. Sasahara San makes another delivery. We've got more work to do before picking up the mail from the public post box. (dog barking) One resident was happy for the visit OK! As we move to the digital world, it's good to remember that these daily interactions also become more important too. The delivery of mail - that human connection - important in remote areas. We quickly visited the main hall, Daibutsuden, and made our way back down to the post box. 12:32pm There doesn't seem to be a lot of mail to pick up today. You could see that a lot of people stop to watch us pick up the mail. (laughter) Seeing someone whose job it is to walk up the path so often that some tourists struggle with is also an attraction, especially for Japanese visiting Yamadera for the first time. I suppose in a way, Sasahara San is a connection between the world on the outside and the spiritual world atop the mountain. It would make quite an interesting anime. We walked down past Neomon Gate, a slice of everyday life in Japan perhaps the most intertesting way to see the stunning attractions in the heart of Yamagata. The trip down is much faster than the trip up. You notice the different view, the sun setting, changing the direction of the light through the trees. (spirited orchestral music) The whole trip from post office from top to bottom took about an hour. 12:57pm Post Office reached. A lot of Japanese hikers say hi, take selfies with Sasahara San - a lot of respect for the guy who has to do his duty up and down the trail every day. And there are a lot of things he'll miss. (laughter) Good. 1:12pm Sasahara San is off. There are more stops on his route in the surrounding mountains delivering mail until his retirement in a couple of years. I went up for a quick climb again to visit the most scenic spot, the Godaido Observation Deck at sunset. It said that those who ascend the steps 1015 to Okunoin Temple at the top, forget the outside world as they ascend. They transcend into something greater. And when you walk around, make sure you look around 'cause it's just stunning. Between three and 4pm there were fewer people on the steps. It had a much different feel. The Godaido Deck, Pavilion of the Five Masters, when the lighting is right, is one of the most incredible views of Japan. It feels surreal when you have it all to yourself just the sound of the wind, trees and maybe the local train passing by at the bottom in town. 25 years ago when I first came to Japan, I remember coming up to Yamadera around that time. And more than the view around me, I was impressed with this. Who has to climb those stairs and pick and deliver the mail almost every day? Sasahara San. And it was really special to get a chance to see him at his job. These are the kind of stories I like to bring you on this channel, and if you liked it, hit that subscribe button and join me on another adventure as I take you to every corner of this amazing country. Mata ne. (temple music)