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Hey everyone, Sinix here.
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It's time for another episode of
Anatomy Quick Tips,
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the series that is here to give you
some useful observations
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and help you feel more comfortable with
drawing people from imagination.
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Today, we'll be talking about arms -
and also, don't be alarmed but
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this all-arm video puts
us near the end of this series.
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Only two more videos remain.
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Regardless, for now let's just focus
on these upper appendages.
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This probably won't be the funniest
video in this series or anything,
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but it will be definitely be the
most humerus -
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so roll up your sleeves
and let's get to work.
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Starting out with structure,
we've already covered both shoulders
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and hands in other videos,
so we just need to make sure we
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can bridge these things together.
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I'm sketching a quick front, side, and
back view of a shoulder to start.
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Seeing a shoulder
and torso without the arm
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always reminds me of a little
lamb or something, but anyway,
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we're going to focus on the
skeletal breakdown of the arm first.
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Of course we have a
single major bone in the upper arm
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and two in the lower arm,
connected at the elbow.
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But as I draw that, the first thing
I actually want to point out
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is that things aren't
in a perfect straight line.
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You can even take a moment
and try to see this yourself;
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just hold one arm out straight
and close your opposite eye.
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Now do your best to
look directly straight down
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the barrel of that massive
gun you call your upper arm.
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If you line up your
sight from shoulder to elbow,
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you'll notice the lower arm doesn't really
line up as much as you might've thought.
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To get really good at
drawing any organic forms,
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it's important to try and identify
these types of subtle offsets
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as much as possible.
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Anyway, let's get back to these bones.
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The humerus is of course
the bone of the upper arm,
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meanwhile the lower arm has the ulna,
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which I would consider
the primary lower arm bone-
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it's the one you would
be hitting someone with
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if you elbowed them-
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and then the radius, which originates
on the exterior side of the elbow,
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A.K.A the side that's further
away from your body,
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and always connects to
the thumb-side of your hand,
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so we can do a bit
of a rotational twisting
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around the lower arm:
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Hence the name "radius."
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The last skeletal thing I want to mention
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is the funny bone.
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This is just an extension of the humerus
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which protrudes on the
inner side of the elbow,
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closest to the body.
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It's called the funny bone
because of an exposed
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nerve ending next to it
that will send a shock up your arm
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if you hit this part of the
elbow against something.
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So if you ever see a chance
to whack your friend's funny bone
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with your pencil or stylus, it's,
you know, free comedy.
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Alright, I added some
hands to these drawings,
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and I know this isn't the hands video,
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but since wrists and organic
offsets are so important,
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let's do a quick look at
that connection anyway.
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Now keep in mind by the time
the radius and ulna get to the wrist
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they'll always be side by side,
and therefore the lower arm connects in
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a much flatter and wider way
into the palm and back of hand,
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and thinner from the
side view of the hand.
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Basic stuff, but the fun part is
any time you're adding a hand to an arm,
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make sure to give it a bit of
an offset and step over toward the
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thumb/radius side of things.
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Similarly, from the side view,
the hand should always
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take a noticeable offsetting
step towards the palm side.
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By the way when I say the word "offset,"
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it usually just means not lined
up evenly with surrounding things.
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Anyway, always make sure
the thumb side of the hand
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feels more chunkier and substantial
than the pinkie side of the palm.
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With all of these ideas in mind,
you should be able to develop a quick
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shorthand for getting
from the arm into the hand.
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In fact, you should be able to
quickly deduce everything about the bones
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and orientation of the
wrist without ever seeing
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the thumbs or fingers or
any interior information.
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So, maybe see how quickly
you can determine
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where the radius and the ulna are
in any of these rough sketches I'm making.
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Hopefully that seems easy enough.
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Let's get back to structure and
talk about the muscle side of things.
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We're going to make it really
easy for our drawing purposes
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and only focus on three muscle groups.
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The biceps are on the front of your upper
arm and allow you to curl up your arm.
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They insert under your shoulder
muscles and chest muscles on one end
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and connect to the radius and
tissue around the ulna on the other end.
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The triceps are on the back of your arm
and allow you to pull your arm straight.
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They also come out from under your
shoulder muscles and similar back muscles
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and connect to the end of the ulna.
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And yes, the deltoids are
of course the shoulder muscles,
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but the third muscle that we're
going to be fixating on in this video
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is going to be the brachioradialis.
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You must learn to
love the brachioradialis,
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it will be a pivotal part of
this video in more ways than one.
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These insertions points are
important, so keep them in mind.
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It connects from
the lower back of the humerus
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under the triceps and
it wraps around a bit
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over parts of the lower biceps and
connects to the radius on the other side.
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I will be exaggerating this
muscle heavily throughout this video,
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so be aware of that strategic inflation.
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We are going all in on the bray-ray.
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I think that's enough structure though, so
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let's get into some drawing practice.
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A big theme in the land of arms
will be controlling our organic curves.
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So I guess I will do a quick recap
on s-curves and c-curves.
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Don't let the names
throw you off too much,
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most of the s-curves and
c-curves you'll be drawing
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are going to be extremely subtle.
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Just a whisper of curvature
going on most of the time.
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And it's good to practice
that level of control
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but an even more
important thing to practise
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is your ability to weight your curves.
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Weighting a curve means
changing up the harshness of the
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curvature through the line.
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So, if the curve stays
consistent from start to finish,
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that would be a weightless curve.
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You can have the curve be
increasingly strong at the start
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or the end of the line to
give it weight in a specific direction.
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This is very, very important to
practise because we spend our
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entire childhoods writing letters and
shapes which curve in a very balanced way;
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but the more you can break away from that,
the more organic your drawings will be,
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so warm up with these often.
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Alright, let's get into those
simplifications and reductions.
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Or, rather, maybe mention
another little side thing...?
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Sorry, there's a lot of
ways to think about arms,
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such as the chain:
a common trick for approaching arms
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is to imagine a giant linking chain-
the idea being that since the upper arm is
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wider from the side view than from
a front view, and meanwhile the forearm is
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the opposite, it will generally
create a nice little back and forth
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between wide and narrow, which is
definitely good for aesthetic purposes.
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So, you can use that as a little
mental note when applicable.
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Meanwhile, to go back to
what we've just talked about
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with curve weight, the most
important mental note I fixate on
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is usually just where to weight the
curve for each part of the arm.
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On the bicep side of the upper arm, the
curve weight is further toward the elbow,
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whereas on the back or tricep side of
things, the curve weight is
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closer to the shoulder.
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The brachioradialis is definitely
weighted toward the upper forearm,
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but is more rounded and gradual than
the opposite side of the forearm.
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All of these things relate to the
actual muscle bodies of each muscle group,
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the tricep being the most
important one to always remember,
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because the muscle bodies are
located in the top half of the upper arm.
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Okay, so let's sum up the
straight arm simplifications
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a bit more directly.
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Back view of the arm, palm
forward, minimal twisting:
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The upper arm might as well
just be a simple cylinder
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with minimal tapering,
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but the lower arm is going to feel
closer to an upside down bowling pin.
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The important part is that the
exterior side, with the brachioradialis
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is going to not only curve
outward more than the interior side,
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but also come up a bit higher than it.
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It should definitely feel like
it starts its s-curve above the elbow.
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If we raise the arm up out to the side,
yes you'll get a bit of the chain concept,
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but since you'll probably
not be drawing massive bodybuilders,
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it can become pretty minor.
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You do want to make sure that you're
thinking about weight and gravity though.
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Obviously, this gets a lot more
extreme with age, but on any body type
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you should still be using these
ideas to give you at least a little
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bit of subtle curve weight.
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Another useful reference point to think
about comes from the shoulder muscle.
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The deltoid comes down to a bit
of a point on the exterior of the arm.
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While not exact, this can still be used
as a good way to indicate a break
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between the front bicep side of the arm
and the rear tricep side-
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especially when you're dealing with
more complex poses and off angle views.
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If I draw a quick arm over here
on the left from a slightly awkward angle,
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adding the deltoid and letting it point
a line towards the elbow can at least
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help us visualise the
tricep and bicep sides of the arm.
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If this drawing looks weirdly
off to you at first, that's good!
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The brachioradialis was not
coming from the correct spot.
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Let's first recall that the
brachioradialis should come from
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under the triceps and over the biceps,
and using that line from the deltoid
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we can visualise this
insertion much more clearly.
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Moving along, some of
these straight armed elbows
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might be looking a bit wonky,
so let's briefly mention them.
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The most important part of
simplifying the elbow will definitely come
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from seeing the triceps and
humerus all come together in a mass
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that leads straight down
through the elbow and into the ulna.
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The funny bone and radius both
become a bit indented on a straight arm,
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so you'll mostly see these little
pockets of depth off to both sides of the
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triceps and ulna, with the
forearm muscles pulling the forms back out
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and really solidifying those crevices.
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There's definitely a lot
of skin going on in this area,
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so it tends to become quite wrinkly.
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There's even
a slang name for this
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folded up skin - it's called the wenis.
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So, everybody should draw the wenis,
the wenis is not a dance,
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and I'm happy to tell you this in advance.
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[laughs] Anyway, wrinkles are tricky. The
general rule is to fold the skin with
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c-curves and s-curves in a way
that squishes the curves together
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without ever feeling like they're
going to cross each other, or pass through
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the extended implied
lines of other curves.
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You can compress a bunch
of them into a small space,
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or just a couple, but I recommend
wrinkling things up a bit above the elbow
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with perhaps some more
drapery style folds hanging underneath.
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You can definitely develop your
own stylistic approach to wrinkles,
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and they should feel
similar in theory to clothing folds,
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but more organic with the lines.
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Just keep in mind,
like with clothing folds,
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doing less is usually
better when learning.
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Alright, a little bit
more drawing in this section,
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because I want to also just quickly
mention some size relations.
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I'm a serial offender of
making my deltoids too small in drawings,
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so I'm trying to correct that. I think it
can be useful to think of the upper
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arms as a length that goes from the top
of the shoulder to the elbow.
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The top third of that length
can be the distance of the
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deltoid going down the arm.
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I barely mentioned it
before, but the triceps
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really have two main visible muscle
bodies on the back of the arm.
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While they both have
those high up muscle bodies,
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the interior side one is a bit
longer down toward the elbow,
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while the exterior one is even more
focused at the top.
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The bottom of these muscle bodies
and strong separation of them
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occurs roughly halfway
down the upper arm unit
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that we mentioned going
from top of shoulder to elbow.
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You can kind of indicate this with a
little butt shape on the back of the arm,
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especially if it's being flexed.
The arm... not the butt.
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Okay, moving along
to the world of movement,
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the elbow is basically just a fancy hinge
joint with the funny bone on the interior,
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the ulna being the king in the center,
and the radius on the exterior.
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When the arm is straight, they somewhat
line up with the ulna sticking out a bit.
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From the interior view though,
once we start curling the arm,
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obviously the funny bone
isn't going anywhere,
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but the ulna is going to hinge around it
and form a very boxy and angular
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silhouette by letting your brain fixate
on the line from funny bone to ulna.
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All of the tissue of the arm is going to
crease at the insertion of the bicep and
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form a bit of a line that points mostly
toward the funny bone side of things.
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The important take away is that interior
arm equals boxy shape and long crease.
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Also, when you raise your arm
with your bicep toward the sky,
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that means the deltoid is going to be
pulled to the back of the shoulder.
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As it, once again, needs to be pointing
toward the exterior line between
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bicep and tricep.
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Anyway, the exterior elbow
view is a bit interesting.
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You'll of course be seeing the
deltoid a lot more in this view
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where the exterior is facing back,
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but the interesting part
is that you're now seeing
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both the radius and ulna
in the straightened arm view.
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This means that when you
curl your arm, those two lower
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arm bones are going
to be traveling together.
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Even though the silhouette
will fundamentally be the same,
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I find it very useful to acknowledge
this anatomy by making the elbow
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feel like it just rounds up
to and around these bones,
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instead of feeling boxy.
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You might also remember that the
brachioradialis is on the exterior side,
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so that will create a mass in form
that will squeeze from upper arm
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to lower arm.
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Because of this mass, the exterior
crease here becomes a lot more
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chubbier and compressed.
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I like to use a shorter and
splitting crease to hint at this
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thicker form-
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and you should try to hint
at these things in any body type.
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From a different view, you can
get some idea of how all of these bones
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and muscles are working,
but for now let's jump over to the
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forearm movements, because
we have rotation to deal with.
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If you stick your right arm out
in front of you, palm side up,
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this is the least twisted
view of your forearm.
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The muscles and bones just carry
forth to the hand in a linear fashion.
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This represents one extreme
of your rotational movement.
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As we rotate the hand,
the elbow won't be changing much,
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but the radius and brachioradialis
will start twisting a bit
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to line up vertically at the wrist.
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The best thing you should
observe on your own arm
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is how the s-curves adjust
as you rotate your hand.
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I'm not in love with
the drawing on the right here,
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but the interior ulna side of
things definitely changes up its
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s-curve the most, whereas the
exterior side just shifts weight a little.
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Once your palm is facing downwards,
the full range of motion is complete.
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This is as far as things can twist.
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The radius and ulna are now
on opposite sides from the elbow.
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You might be thinking,
"what if I want to give a thumbs down?'"
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Well, physically you can't. So be sure
to remember that and like this video.
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If you do really want
to point your thumb down,
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it requires you to actually
rotate your entire arm so that your
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elbow is facing a different direction.
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Lastly, here I'll just mention, when
your arms are at rest at your sides,
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the default comfortable state
is that central, half-twisted state,
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not the completely untwisted state.
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Alright, let's go back to reducing
information and recap what we've learned.
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Of course, it's pretty fun
to draw giant musclebound arms,
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especially when you're trying to
commit all these concepts to memory,
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but we also want to be
able to simplify these things down
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into little anime stick arms.
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When you start out in art, it's fine
to just think of the upper and lower arms
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as just cylinders, and as
you get more comfortable,
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you can introduce some
tapering into these forms.
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Eventually, you will want to
be capable of some level
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of form complexity. These cross
sections are never just round.
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They have weird oblong
shapes and blobby looking contours.
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I like to practice these things with what
I would call "skinny muscle forms."
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Maybe it's just my Samurai
Champloo roots coming through again.
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A quick example though,
starting with a deltoid and shoulder,
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letting it point toward an elbow, think
I'll twist the bicep to the bottom on
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this one, bicep means curve weight
closer to elbows, so we can even dive in
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with some angular shapes.
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With the bicep facing forward,
that means the deltoid
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can be a bit further on
top instead of on the back,
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and we can even hint at some
tricep form above the separating line.
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That line will let us know
where to pull the brachioradialis from,
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and then we can decide on the
hand rotation and make everything line up.
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Design wise, it's good to play
around with the ratios of rounded
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shapes and angular shapes.
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We alluded earlier to the
exterior side feeling more rounded
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and the interior feeling more angular,
when discussing the elbow hinge,
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so let's just run with that a bit more.
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What if we just always
simplified things around the elbow
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by playing up rounded exteriors
and angular interiors in the forearm?
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I just noticed that that letter pointing
towards the tricep is a D instead of a T.
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Clearly getting a bit
delirious at this point.
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Regardless, let's keep sketching.
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Here's a quick side view, still mostly
practicing curve weights and that
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brachioradialis. Some slightly
more exciting things we could try
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would be playing around
with perspective and dynamic angles.
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If we imagine a Spiderman
type arm pose, we could still
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think about where we could
exaggerate our forearm muscles.
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I'll be honest though,
I sort of got distracted
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right after starting this one, because I
thought of some more stuff to mention.
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Such as: what does it look like
if you just have your elbow
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sticking up in the air with
your arm curled behind it?
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A lot of tricep weight at
the bottom, but it really thins out
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into a very skeletal look at the elbow.
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It does give a nice look at
the radius, ulna, and funny bone.
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This becomes instantly
obscured by the forearm once you
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straighten the arm out a bit,
with those forearm muscles just
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taking over both sides of the elbow.
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But, this made me
think of another scenario:
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how about when you're resting your
weight on your elbow at a desk or table?
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Where do those forearm muscles go then?
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Well, since the brachioradialis
connects to the humerus,
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it actually sits up higher, away from
the elbow on the exterior side of things.
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I guess that's obvious enough,
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kind of like how it would look
if you were drinking something.
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Just always be keeping track of where
the thumb is, and where the exterior
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and interior of the elbow are,
and you'll be fine.
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Now, we always have a common mistakes
part in these videos,
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but I think I've gone over things so much
that we can try a pop quiz instead.
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I'll show a quick drawing with some
weird mistake, and we'll see if
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you can deduce the problem.
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Like this. What's wrong with this?
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Well, you have two possible answers on
this one, since we can't see the shoulder.
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We seem to be looking at the front of an
arm, so either the brachioradialis
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is on the wrong side, or the hand
should be mirrored.
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How about this one?
Anything seem off to you?
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Well, I'm messing with you a bit,
because it's the same thing,
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except this time you can see the deltoid,
so there's only one answer.
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The brachioradialis is
on the wrong side again.
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It should be on the
exterior, not interior.
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Alright, I promise this
one will be different.
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What's wrong this time?
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Doesn't seem too far off, the deltoid
and forearm stuff seem okayish.
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This might be a subtle one, but I
reversed the weight on the
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bicep and tricep curves.
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Remember, the tricep should have mass
closer to the shoulder, and the bicep
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curves closer to the elbow.
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That's a bit better.
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One last one.
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What's wrong now?
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Hmm, the brachioradialis is on the
exterior, so that's fine.
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But it still looks a little strange.
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Well, that's because it needs
to go over the bicep, not under it.
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And with that, I think
we're done learning.
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You have graduated to the part of the
video where we just take everything
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we learned and try to draw and paint
arms from imagination.
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Hopefully they wind up looking alright.
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I will be using a simple flat brush for
these lines, with pressure sensitivity
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mostly on size, but with a bit on opacity.
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That should make it feel
pretty comfy and natural.
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One big concern I had
going into this final section
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is trying to make sure
it stays focused on arms.
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Shoulders are a bit unavoidable,
but I tried experimenting
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with ways to make
the hands get less attention.
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Literal disjointed fingers and whatnot.
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Unfortunately, that
actually made them stand out more,
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in rules of focus
and contrast and whatnot,
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so eventually I'll get rid of that idea.
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What actually wound
up being the biggest issue
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is just trying to come
up with a good variety of poses.
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Once again, I considered crazy
foreshortening, but then the page might
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feel less cohesive with the
more traditional perspectives.
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I don't know. But I'm definitely
enjoying the line art quality.
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There are a couple of
disjointed lines here and there,
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but I tried to hit a good number of
the c-curves and s-curves
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in single strokes.
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That can result in a lot of putting
something down and then undoing it,
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redoing it, until I figure out what
I want it to look like,
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but I'm mostly okay with that method.
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I can't be too chaotic with styles, but
I did try to at least vary up
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the muscularity
levels a bit as it goes on.
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My brain was pretty drained
from all the previous arm drawings,
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so there are definitely a couple of
moments where I've made up an arm
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and then moments later realised it was
almost identical to one that was
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already on the page, like this last one.
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But I just decided to adjust the
angle of it a bit and move on.
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For colors, I don't know how
much I can really say that would be new.
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The skin video, as well as the other videos,
have really covered the general stuff,
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but you can see I've lightened the
line art into a lighter reddish tone,
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and then threw in my normal dull
minty background.
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I like to mask out everything in order
to watch transparency, which can
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be a bit tedious, but usually worth
it in the long run.
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A big piece of advice is to make sure
you don't instinctually start
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pressing hard with
your stylus when blocking.
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This is always the most dangerous time for
your hand and wrist health,
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because we tend to dig in harder when
filling things in.
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Pressure is bad for your tendons.
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Anyway, once everything is blocked in,
we can try out a variety
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of skin tones across the page.
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This is also a great time to introduce
some hue variety by air brushing
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in reds on areas that might catch more
sun damage, and things like that.
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The next step is form rendering, and I
know some people like a more
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smooth gradiation and some people like a
more chunkier chaotic painting approach,
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but, I'm going to try out some
weirder ideas, and just try defining forms
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with blocky, contour tracing strokes.
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Honestly it's a bit weird at times for
these videos, because I don't find myself
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with a strong preference.
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In my mind, as long as you have some
understanding of the forms,
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you can always either step up how
abstract and chunky things are,
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or step it back into
hypersoft air brushing.
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In any case, the important part is
just knowing where the hard edges
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and soft edges should be.
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Now, how do you know which
edges are hard and which are soft?
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Well, it's simple. If you would be okay
with seeing an actual line at a specific
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spot in your drawing, then that can be
a hard edge in your painting.
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If you think a line would look bad in your
drawing, then stick to soft edges there.
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I already made pretty much all of the
lines I wanted to make
-
in the drawing stage, so those will
be the only hard edges.
-
Anyway, I started out pretty experimental,
with some of the painting stuff early on,
-
but I wasn't that into it this time, so
I'm slowly going to be dialling that back
-
as we go. Almost all of these arms
are going to be out of direct light,
-
you know, just ambient light for the
most part, aside from the one on the right
-
that is reaching toward us.
-
Doing this somewhat makes the whole image
a bit darker and more saturated than
-
I wanted, so I'll be desaturating and
lightening a bit as we go.
-
Other than that,
I definitely kept the line art in play
-
for a lot longer than I normally do.
-
It's not until most of the form
rendering is complete that I actually
-
flatten things down and
start painting out the lines.
-
This is also when I start playing with
slightly more interesting shapes
-
in some of them.
-
The rim light is going
to be pretty subtle today;
-
I definitely made it more limelight than
I usually recommend to people,
-
but still trying to at least taper
those lines and find some
-
chunkier shapes with it.
-
To bring back some of the other fun stuff
from the skin rendering video,
-
I decided to put in some
body hair on the top left arm.
-
Just a bit of fun with desaturating colors
and pattern-based brushwork.
-
This was also when I decided to at least
connect the fingers that I had there,
-
but we're almost done, so the last
thing I want to have fun with is bringing
-
some of that body hair into the rim light.
-
It makes the rim light a lot more fun.
-
Definitely recommend
trying it when you can!
-
And, with that, this monster
of a video is finally complete.
-
It has been a journey, and while the
drawings and paintings might
-
not be perfect, hopefully you
at least feel a bit more confident
-
about being able to draw
some fun arms from imagination.
-
As always, the best way
to fully learn is to mix in equal parts
-
of drawing from human reference, doing
master copies of other artists you like,
-
and drawing from imagination.
-
No matter how good or bad you might
feel about one of these three parts,
-
do them all evenly regardless.
-
We only focused on
three main muscles in this video,
-
so if you find yourself
wanting to build up more complexity,
-
just go check out one of the other
amazing art YouTube channels that dives
-
a bit deeper.
-
Alright, I want to thank you all so much
for at least giving this video a chance,
-
I'm not a frequent uploader,
so be sure to subscribe if you don't want
-
to miss out on the handful
of videos I put out each year.
-
Of course, if you want some fun,
specialised content, the brainstorm classes
-
have been going really well, and
it's definitely worth your time and money
-
if you haven't tried them out yet.
Info is down in the description.
-
I also, of course, do want
to give an earnest thank you
-
to the Patreon supporters that chip in
money to keep these videos coming.
-
You guys are wondeful.
-
See you, everyone.