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VD0: A second type of gating,
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where needles are placed opposite
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each other, is interlock gating.
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This results in different performance.
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In interlock gating,
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cylinder and dial needles are
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spaced so they're directly opposed.
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To prevent needles from hitting each other
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during the knitting cycle, opposing
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needles are not selected at the same time.
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When needle one in the cylinder is
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knitting, the corresponding
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needle one in the dial must rest.
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This is achieved by the alternating
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needles in the dial and the cylinder
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never being activated at the same time.
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This requires two cam
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tracks for both needle beds.
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Therefore, the location of the butts on
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the needle shank must be in two positions.
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Most commonly used are butts in short
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and long configurations,
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as seen in this illustration.
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Needles with long and short butts are
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alternately arranged in the cylinder,
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and also in the dial.
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VD2: During each feed or course of yarn,
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only half the needles are used.
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On course one,
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only needles with long butt positions
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knit, those placed in odd positions of the
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cylinder and even positions of the dial.
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On the second course of yarn or feed,
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the short butt position needles knit
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in even positions of the cylinder
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and in odd positions of the dial.
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Two feeds are required to complete a full
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visual course of interlock knit,
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whereas in one-by-one rib knitting,
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only one feed is required
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to make a visible course.
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VD3: Look at the resulting structure
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of an interlock fabric.
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Follow one course across different
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wales and you will see a complex knit.
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Remember that two feeds are
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required for one course of knit.
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This first colored yarn knits on odd
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dial and even cylinder needles.
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The second colored yarn knits on odd
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cylinder and even dial needles.
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Because loops interlock and alternate
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from the front to the back,
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the structure of interlock fabric is much
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more rigid and stable than that of a rib.
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At closer inspection,
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you can see that interlock is the meshing
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or interlocking of two
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one-by-one rib courses.
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This prevents adjacent
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wales from having mobility.
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VD4: Different double-knit constructions can be
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made on rib and interlock gated machines.
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Needle selection by mechanical and/or
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electronic systems, along with yarn
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selection, determines the design effect.
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VD5: A variation of an interlock knit can be
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used to produce a structure that is tight
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and stable,
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where one course of fabric is attached
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and interlocked while the next is not.
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Ponte di Roma, used for women's dresses
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and suits, is an example of this.
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This fabric has the same
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appearance on both sides.
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VD7: Here's the notation
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for this type of fabric.
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During the first two feeds,
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the machine knits interlock.
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With the third feed, the machine knits
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jersey on only the cylinder needles.
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At feed four,
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jersey is knit on only the dial needles.
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It takes four yarn feeds
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to make two visual courses.
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Although it is smooth,
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Ponte di Roma has a slight horizontal rib
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appearance, and is thicker
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and more stable than interlock.