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- Adobo around the Philippines!
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- We couldn't do this series
without talking about adobo.
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If you read Pigafetta's journal...
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Hey, guys. Who's Pigafetta? Quick.
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A little check here.
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- From what I know,
he's a famous songwriter.
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(laughs)
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Singer-songwriter.
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- Pigafetta was basically someone
who documented
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Magellan's voyage
in the Philippines
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in the early 1500s,
so it's one of the only
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written documents that we have
that has a blow-by-blow basis
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of how Philippines was
pre-colonization
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when the Spanish arrived.
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And in there, in food,
there's really not that much,
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but what we do know
from the food that is there,
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a lot of the times
when the Spanish would arrive,
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they'd be presented
with a couple of options.
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But they also do talk
a lot about pork
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or animals cooked
in their own juices.
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So because of our penchant
for sour foods,
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because of our penchant
for oily foods,
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and because we know
we're primarily a country
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that roasts and boils
and steams,
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then people kind of say
that could be the original adobo.
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So pork cooked in its juices.
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So today, that's why
we're doing it,
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'cause adobo is very central
to the Philippines,
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there's probably that one,
you know, initial recipe
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where everything stemmed for
but today,
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we have thousands of versions.
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So we're each going
to be making our own versions
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as traditionally as possible
from the provinces
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and regions that they are from.
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I'll go first.
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I'll start with the most basic
kind of closest
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to pre-colonial adobo
that we have,
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and everyone else is going
to follow after.
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Let's get cooking.
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It's always very difficult
to call something pre-colonial
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or to call something
the first or the original.
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Obviously, food,
just like history,
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is kind of fluid,
and it's really tough
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to kind of pinpoint something.
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The word adobo in itself
and how we call it nowadays
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is a "Spanish iteration."
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It probably wasn't called that.
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Obviously, we had
our own words for it.
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So I can't even tell you
what this dish was
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"originally called."
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So if I can't do that,
I can't tell you
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how it was originally cooked.
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What we can do is assume.
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Just like a lot when it comes
to Filipino culture,
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we have to put in
a lot of assumptions
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based on the culture
that we have today
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to assume what our history was
because of a lack
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of written materials
and history in general.
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So through that process,
we can kind of say,
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in very simple terms,
the original kind of recipe
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for an adobo would call
for boar or pork nowadays
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in its own juices.
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So we have some lard
over here, some salt,
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because we've been
a salt-producing nature.
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Water, highly available.
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Garlic and bay leaves.
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Questionable, right?
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So garlic, we're not exactly sure
when it came in.
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Usually, you'd have
some peppercorns
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in here as well.
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But as we know,
pepper is not necessarily native
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to the Philippines.
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And then, bay leaves.
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If you have spent some time
in markets in Dumaguete or Cebu,
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you will see a bay leaf
that doesn't look like a bay leaf,
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but it's still called barrel,
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but it is believed
to be a native bay leaf
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to the Philippines
and not the bay leaf
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that the Spanish brought.
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So that's why I'm going
to integrate it today.
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But I'm going to try
to keep everything
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as traditional
and as authentic as possible.
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Using a palayok here,
I'm going to grab my lard
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and I'm just gonna spread it
on the bottom here.
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When you ask people
around the Philippines
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what they know about adobo,
I'm pretty sure 70-80%
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of them eat their adobo
with soy sauce,
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but that is an integration
that came in only
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when the Chinese started trading
with us, right?
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So that's why, in general,
I have a very hard time
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calling anything authentic
or anything original
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because of how Filipino history
kind of unfolded.
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That's just how our cuisine is.
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So it's very important
that we accept
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everyone's kind of point of view
when it comes to the food
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and we just respect
each other's way of doing things.
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So there's a lot of lard there.
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It's going to render out
even more lard
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because we're going
to add our pork.
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Then we're going
to take our pork pieces,
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layer those in kind
of really tightly.
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Now up to you
if you want to keep the skin on,
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keep it off.
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Really your call.
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I kind of like that chewy skin,
lots of garlic.
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That's a personal preference
of mine.
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Make sure that that's
in between the pork as well.
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Bay leaves.
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Generous rock salt.
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Some water.
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Not to cover, just halfway
because you will be generating
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more liquid as the fat kind
of renders out.
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Something that we've
been producing
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as long as we've
been producing alcohol,
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which is a long time
and definitely pre-colonial—
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our vinegar.
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This, I believe,
is a nipa palm vinegar.
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I highly suggest
when you do make adobo
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at home, try out
different vinegars
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to figure out what kind
of vinegar you like
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in your adobo.
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Low heat for 15 minutes.
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We're gonna let that vinegar
kind of cook down a little bit
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without stirring it.
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We're then gonna let that go
for about 10 to 15 minutes,
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cover it, let that go
for a further hour, check on it,
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if we're happy where it is,
you can eat it then,
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or you can go ahead
and cook it down further.
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Okay. So now we are
in my test kitchen at home,
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and while I was kind
of cooking some recipes,
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I realized, hey,
we haven't shown you
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what the adobo looks like.
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So I have it right here.
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As you can see,
it is insane how much fat
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was eventually rendered out
of all that pork,
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and obviously,
cooking things with lard.
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So previously,
I guess in times
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before refrigeration,
confiting something
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or keeping something
in lard or fat was a way
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of preservation,
especially there is some vinegar
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in there and some salt.
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So you could potentially
keep this outside
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as long as it's kind of like
completely covered with fat.
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Ours isn't fully kind
of submerged in fat,
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which means
if you'd want to do that,
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you probably have
to add way more lard
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than is warranted
or maybe necessary.
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Comes with flavor.
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But like this in the fridge
will keep for a long,
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long time.
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So now we're going
to go ahead and fry it up.
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So we went straight
into putting it in the jar,
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and we haven't
actually tasted it yet.
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And the reason behind that is
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this is the type of food
that really just
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does so much better
the longer it's kind of kept.
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And just keeping it
overnight like that
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before actually eating,
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it will probably just
really give us such amazing flavor.
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Everything here is cooked,
obviously, so all we're asking
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to do here is add
a little bit of color
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and some crispiness
to the overall dish.
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The fat, you can put back
into the jar if you want to,
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or you can serve it on rice,
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which is the best way
of doing it.
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It's crunchy
where it needs to be.
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We can taste that fat.
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It almost is like collageny
in texture.
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And those burnt bits
that kind of just stuck
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to the pan, it's like
automatic adobo flakes.
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So you made
your pre-colonial adobo
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and adobo flakes
at the same time.
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That is so good.
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And I would not be able
to finish this plate.
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It's just...
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It's almost too much
in terms of flavor.
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That is very heavy
but delicious.
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Okay, now let's check out
the next adobo recipe.
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- So next, we are going
to be making adobo
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in the style of Cebuanos.
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So I got this recipe
from Romayne.
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This is how Cebuanos
make adobo, but later on,
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I'll show you one variation
how Romayne makes it
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with her family.
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- So adobong Bisaya
is very different
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from any other adobos
in the country
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because it's dry, it's crisp,
and cooked in its own oil.
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Now, disclaimer,
it varies from household
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to household
so there's not one
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particularly correct recipe
for this.
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You have to have pork belly,
salt, garlic, bay leaf,
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or bay leaves,
and then a little bit of vinegar.
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- So traditionally,
this is how Cebuanos make adobo.
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***But today, yun na nga,
it varies from family to family
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so we'll add,
according to Romayne's family,
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onions and a bit
of spring onions.
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- So in a cold pot,
you put all the ingredients in.
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- So we will let this marinate
for about a day, or overnight,
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then we are going to cook it.
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Okay. So it has been
about 15 minutes
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and most of our liquid's gone.
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Now at this point,
it's not that tender yet.
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So what Cebuanos do
is they put water.
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- Let the water evaporate.
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And then after that,
you let the pork render
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its own fat or oil,
so it's going to be like a confit.
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So let it cook
until it's golden brown,
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and once you get a thin
but crisp skin and fat layer,
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that's already good to go.
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- Okay. So for today's
taste tester,
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we'll call on Chef Martin.
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- Hey!
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- It's also his birthday.
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- Editor, just put some applause
in the background.
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- And also confetti.
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- I hope you're happy
with my gift.
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- It's beautiful!
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- The reason why I called you out
because you're the one
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who made our previous
Cebu humba.
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- You're right.
- Remember that?
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***- So matagal na kulo tapos prito.
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- Yeah. This is like confit.
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- Oh.
- Yeah.
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And then...
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- We eat it with...?
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- I prefer to eat it with this.
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- But traditionally?
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- It's good on itself.
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- I love this.
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- How would you differentiate it
with adobong puti?
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- Well, with your adobo,
it's very obvious
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where the saltiness comes from,
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and you can totally feel
the difference
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if fish sauce, salt,
or soy sauce was used.
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And obviously,
since it's, like, dried out,
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it's kind of more salty.
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I'm not saying
it's like uncomfortably salty but...
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- Like, it's has lots of Maillards.
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- Yeah.
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- And did you like the touch
of vinegar and onions?
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'Cause Cebuanos
have this a lot,
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especially in Punko-punko.
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So adobo in Cebu, approved?
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- Yeah.
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I love it.
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- I'm going to be making
the Ilonggo take
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of the classic adobo
which is adobong pula.
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This recipe is from Marj Uy,
my auntie,
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who is from San Joaquin, Iloilo.
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- This recipe, adobo with atsuete
or adobo na pula,
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is a traditional family recipe.
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This comes from my grandmother,
who loves to hold
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a fiesta even
when it's not fiesta time,
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especially during harvest season.
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- So for our first stop,
we have to make
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the atsuete solution.
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We have here exactly
two cups of water
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and two tablespoons
of atsuete seeds.
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- You need to soak
your atsuete first,
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and the atsuete you should use
should be seeds.
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This is the best aroma
from the atsuete.
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- And on the other hand,
while we are doing
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our atsuete solution,
we are going to be boiling
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our pork.
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- You need to boil it
for about 5 minutes
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to remove the impurities.
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Fry the pork in the pan
without using any oil.
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Just heat the pan.
Place the pork in the pan.
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Cook it until it turns golden brown
to release its own fat.
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- So from the oil that we got
from the pork,
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this is what we're going
to use for the whole recipe.
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- For your ingredients
for sautéing,
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you'll need garlic, onion, and ginger.
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These should be finely chopped.
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Then, return the pork
that you browned earlier
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back into the pan.
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After that, add the 2 cups
of water with the atsuete
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you prepared earlier.
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Let it simmer and cook.
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It should take
about 30 minutes, more or less.
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- It's been 30 minutes.
Let's now check our adobong pula.
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Ooh!
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As you could see,
the water has evaporated.
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It's time to add
our coconut vinegar.
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- Since this is
a family traditional recipe,
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the vinegar should preferably
from tuba.
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Don't stir immediately
when you add the vinegar.
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Let it sit for about 5 minutes.
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That's when you stir
and season it with salt and sugar.
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Then, add your crushed
black pepper.
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Those are all the main ingredients.
It's very simple.
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All the ingredients combined give
the adobo its unique taste.
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Why? Because it doesn't rely
on any added taste enhancers.
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- It's so fragrant.
I'm so excited to try this,
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so I'm going to call on
Seth boy to try it with me.
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- I'm so excited.
I really want to try it.
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Can I just say that the color
is really appealing?
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***Like sobrang nakakatakam siya. Like parang, ay, malasa to. Diba?
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I'm going to go in
for a little bone
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'cause I kind of like
that juiciness.
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Okay. Let's try it.
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- Crispy.
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- Delicious.
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***- Di ko masyado malasahan yung ginger. Di matapang yung ginger. Di rin malakas yung sukang tuba.
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- You really get
that caramelized sugar flavor
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'cause you kind of let it dry out
a little bit.
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It's so delicious.
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***Alam mo yung saying na masarap kainin pag nagkakape? Parang ganun yung vibes niya.
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- I actually want some rice.
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Thank you, Aunt Marj,
for the recipe! I love it.
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- Aunt Marj, this one's crazy.
So good.
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- Thank you!
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- So according to our sources,
adobong Bicolano,
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the biggest thing there
is gata (coconut milk).
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But it is also seasoned
with fish sauce and not salt,
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and they also use sukang tuba,
or coconut vinegar,
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for the acid.
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- Adobo sa gata is something
that you may consider
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as distinctly Bicolano
with the addition
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of coconut milk, or gata,
plus siling haba (long pepper).
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- So first thing
that we're going to do
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is heat up some oil here
in our clay pot.
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So before we use this,
always remember,
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if you're going to use
food grade clay pot,
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you have to soak it
in water overnight
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or at least 30 minutes,
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just so it doesn't break
when it's in contact with heat.
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I'm just going to heat up
some oil.
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Hello? Hello? There.
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And then, while waiting,
I'll marinate my pork
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in some fish sauce.
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We will just brown
our pork belly.
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Just brown it on all sides
and we can move on
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with the recipe.
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- Adobong gata has
the same ingredients
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as a regular adobo recipe—
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pork belly, garlic, chili peppers,
peppercorns, bay leaves.
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- And of course,
how can we braise
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if there's no water.
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Some water.
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Then, some sukang tuba,
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or coconut vinegar.
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So we'll simmer this
for around 30 minutes
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until the pork is rendered
and very tender,
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and then we'll add
our coconut milk.
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This is kakang gata (coconut cream)
but this is fresh,
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this didn't come from a can.
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***So kakang gata, yun yung unang piga natin sa niyog pag nagrequest tayo.
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- And towards the end
of cooking it,
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we add liputo, or kakang gata.
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Once creamy, the adobong gata
is ready to serve.
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- So our adobong Bicolano's done
and geez, it oiled out.
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Even the coconut milk.
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You could have probably
simmered it less
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right after adding
the coconut milk.
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I'll have someone taste it
with me today
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because I might be biased.