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[crackling]
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Hey, Jody here,
of weldingtipsandtricks.com.
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Today's video is
about dual shield flux core welding,
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where you use a flux core wire
as well as a shielding gas.
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Let's get right into it.
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Going to go ahead and
get right into some welding here today.
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This is just a 2-F tee joint,
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and later on in the video,
toward the end,
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we'll talk about some
of the details.
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[crackling]
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No real manipulation
of the electrode is required
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on running stringer beads like this,
just a straight up drag
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with a drag angle.
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There's an old saying:
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"if it's got slag, you drag,"
and that kind of applies here.
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I'm not saying you can't push it,
but to-- to, uh,
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you know, to do it per the book,
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you need to drag it,
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and you have dual shield flux core
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as well as
self-shielded flux core.
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But with welding, it seems
to be an exception to every rule.
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So, you know,
if you get in a spot
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where you have to push
instead of drag,
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long as you keep that flux behind you,
you could be okay.
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I place that second bead about 2/3
over the first bead,
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and that just leaves
a nice little groove for me
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to follow the edge of that weld
just straight up and just,
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you know, try to make
a fairly even fillet weld
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that's stacked nice and evenly,
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where this bead is just about halfway
over the previous bead.
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All right,
let's go for uphill now.
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This is the same tee joint,
this is a quarter inch thickness,
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that's roughly
six millimeters thick.
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What you want to do is you want
to maintain that same gun angle
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all the way up the joint.
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What you don't want to do
is do this:
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let it-- let it cock
upward as you go up.
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If you get off a little bit,
it's okay,
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but if you shoot for 90 degrees,
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straight dead nuts in 90 degrees,
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you'll probably wind up
with a slight push angle,
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and you'll still be okay.
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When that helmet drops,
you lose a little bit--
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you lose track
of your gun angle a little bit.
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So I'm using a like a series
of little triangle technique here,
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and it's a fairly fast motion,
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just going slow enough
to avoid any undercut,
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and that was the best technique
that I found.
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I tried others,
but that's the best thing
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I found for this particular joint.
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I used 23 volts
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and 260 inches per minute
of wire feed speed,
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and I'm using .045" wire,
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and you still fight that little crown
in the middle.
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That just seems to be typical,
going vertical, uphill,
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no matter what process
you're using,
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if it's MIG with bare wire
or flux core or what.
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So I'm showing here
that little series of triangles.
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This is a lap joint,
but it illustrates it very well.
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This-- with bare wire MIG,
just because I got a good shot of it
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in a previous video,
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and I thought it would help
to kind of compare it
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to this--
this gas shielded flux core video.
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So I'm making a series
of triangles here,
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and what that does
is it traces the front
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or leading edge of the puddle,
and that's usually a good thing.
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There's another method here
where you do a series
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of upside-down V's
that also traces the front of the puddle,
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which, for me, works really well
on bare wire MIG,
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but not as well
with this gas-shielded--
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gas-shielded flux core.
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It's getting in there,
definitely is a good method
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to use to penetrate into the corner,
into the root of the joint.
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It just, to me,
it's just a little choppy,
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and it's reason it's dark here is
because it's getting dark outside.
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Had to use the--
my little lighted chipping hammer.
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And now I'm going to go
over really quickly some things
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that are important
when you're dealing
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with gas shielded flux core:
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drive rollers,
contact tip and extension,
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nozzle dip, polarity,
shield and gas,
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and the stick out,
also known as CTWT,
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or contact tip-to-work distance,
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and then your settings like voltage
and wire feed speed.
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Flux core wire is hollow.
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The flux is in the middle,
so it's hollow and can be crushed.
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So if you have to use a lot of tension
on the tensioners,
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you can crush it
and have feeding problems.
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So knurled rollers
that are the right size are the way to go.
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You can use less tension
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and still push the wire
through the liner.
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This particular wire
recommends 3/4" stick out.
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Soit-- I've got to have my contact tip
roughly flush
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with the nozzle in order to get that
in a tee joint.
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And so
that's why I have this thing
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just about flush
or slightly sticking out.
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Nozzle dip, is it necessary?
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Eh, it helps a lot.
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If you're in a pinch,
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you can definitely get
by with some Vaseline.
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And no MSDS required for something
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that you can rub on a baby's butt.
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So, there you go.
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Polarity.
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In this particular wire,
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it's recommended
DC electrode positive.
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So I've got the ground clamp hooked up
to the negative.
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C25 gas.
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That's 75/25 argon CO2 gas.
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Roughly 25 to 30 CFH.
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This particular wire can be run
with straight CO2
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or an argon CO2 mix.
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Let's talk about settings
for a minute.
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Where do you go to find
a good starting point for settings?
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In this particular machine
that I was using today,
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there's a chart on the inside
of the door like a lot of welders have,
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and it's got an error on it.
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It's calling out DC,
straight polarity for E71T-1.
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That's wrong, it needs DC
reverse polarity, electrode positive.
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So you can't always rely
on charts.
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Also, the settings here are generally
for flat and horizontal.
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So, when you go vertical uphill,
things are really hot.
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So, what I do is I'll drop
down a thickness or two,
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and it gets me in the ballpark.
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For instance,
today I was welding a quarter inch.
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I use the settings for 3/16th,
for vertical uphill.
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A much better resource
that I found was this:
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it's called,
"The Procedure Handbook of Welding"
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from
the James F. Lincoln Foundation,
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and it's got a section in there
for gas shielded flux core.
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And it's
much more accurate settings.
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Show you that in just a minute.
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That-- it's more accurate
because it's got separate charts
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for separate positions.
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As you can see right here,
it says this one is written
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for overhead
as well as vertical uphill.
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This particular chart is written
with CO2 shielding gas in mind,
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just know
you're going to use slightly less voltage
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with an argon CO2 mix.
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Plate thickness,
a 1/4" and up,
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one or more passes,
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electrode class E71T-1, that's key.
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You know,
different brand names
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can have
different proprietary names,
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but this is the class.
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And I'm using 0.045, wire.
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That's 1.1 millimeter wire.
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Wire feed speed, 275 to 340,
that's a decent narrow range.
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You know, I've seen some charts
that say 200 to 800
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and it doesn't
really help me a lot.
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Current: DC(+),
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the electrode: positive polarity,
very important.
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See the chart
on the machine was wrong.
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Voltage 25 to 27,
and since this chart is for CO2,
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I know I'm going to need
a bit less voltage than that
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for the argon CO2 mixed gas.
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The stickout, 3/4".
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And then for vertical up,
a slight push angle of five degrees.
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Or if I'm doing overhead,
a drag angle of 50 degrees.
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All right, so I--
I like to tell everybody about this,
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because it's such a good deal,
it's $30 right now from JFLF.org.
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A book--
a comparable book like this
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from the American Welding Society
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would be as much as $200,
maybe even more.
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Now, a little side note here,
it's not going to help you
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if you live outside the US,
because shipping will just kill you.
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But if you're inside the US
and you want a great little book
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for parameters,
for flux core and MIG
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and all that stuff,
this is a great book.
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That about wraps it up.
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I appreciate you spending time
on my channel.
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See you next time.
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[no sound]