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Dual Shield Flux Core Welding Basics

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    [crackling]
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    Hey, Jody here,
    of weldingtipsandtricks.com.
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    Today's video is
    about dual shield flux core welding,
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    where you use a flux core wire
    as well as a shielding gas.
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    Let's get right into it.
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    Going to go ahead and
    get right into some welding here today.
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    This is just a 2-F tee joint,
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    and later on in the video,
    toward the end,
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    we'll talk about some
    of the details.
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    [crackling]
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    No real manipulation
    of the electrode is required
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    on running stringer beads like this,
    just a straight up drag
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    with a drag angle.
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    There's an old saying:
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    "if it's got slag, you drag,"
    and that kind of applies here.
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    I'm not saying you can't push it,
    but to-- to, uh,
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    you know, to do it per the book,
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    you need to drag it,
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    and you have dual shield flux core
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    as well as
    self-shielded flux core.
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    But with welding, it seems
    to be an exception to every rule.
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    So, you know,
    if you get in a spot
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    where you have to push
    instead of drag,
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    long as you keep that flux behind you,
    you could be okay.
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    I place that second bead about 2/3
    over the first bead,
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    and that just leaves
    a nice little groove for me
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    to follow the edge of that weld
    just straight up and just,
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    you know, try to make
    a fairly even fillet weld
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    that's stacked nice and evenly,
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    where this bead is just about halfway
    over the previous bead.
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    All right,
    let's go for uphill now.
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    This is the same tee joint,
    this is a quarter inch thickness,
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    that's roughly
    six millimeters thick.
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    What you want to do is you want
    to maintain that same gun angle
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    all the way up the joint.
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    What you don't want to do
    is do this:
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    let it-- let it cock
    upward as you go up.
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    If you get off a little bit,
    it's okay,
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    but if you shoot for 90 degrees,
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    straight dead nuts in 90 degrees,
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    you'll probably wind up
    with a slight push angle,
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    and you'll still be okay.
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    When that helmet drops,
    you lose a little bit--
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    you lose track
    of your gun angle a little bit.
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    So I'm using a like a series
    of little triangle technique here,
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    and it's a fairly fast motion,
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    just going slow enough
    to avoid any undercut,
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    and that was the best technique
    that I found.
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    I tried others,
    but that's the best thing
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    I found for this particular joint.
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    I used 23 volts
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    and 260 inches per minute
    of wire feed speed,
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    and I'm using .045" wire,
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    and you still fight that little crown
    in the middle.
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    That just seems to be typical,
    going vertical, uphill,
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    no matter what process
    you're using,
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    if it's MIG with bare wire
    or flux core or what.
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    So I'm showing here
    that little series of triangles.
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    This is a lap joint,
    but it illustrates it very well.
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    This-- with bare wire MIG,
    just because I got a good shot of it
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    in a previous video,
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    and I thought it would help
    to kind of compare it
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    to this--
    this gas shielded flux core video.
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    So I'm making a series
    of triangles here,
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    and what that does
    is it traces the front
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    or leading edge of the puddle,
    and that's usually a good thing.
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    There's another method here
    where you do a series
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    of upside-down V's
    that also traces the front of the puddle,
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    which, for me, works really well
    on bare wire MIG,
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    but not as well
    with this gas-shielded--
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    gas-shielded flux core.
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    It's getting in there,
    definitely is a good method
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    to use to penetrate into the corner,
    into the root of the joint.
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    It just, to me,
    it's just a little choppy,
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    and it's reason it's dark here is
    because it's getting dark outside.
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    Had to use the--
    my little lighted chipping hammer.
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    And now I'm going to go
    over really quickly some things
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    that are important
    when you're dealing
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    with gas shielded flux core:
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    drive rollers,
    contact tip and extension,
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    nozzle dip, polarity,
    shield and gas,
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    and the stick out,
    also known as CTWT,
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    or contact tip-to-work distance,
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    and then your settings like voltage
    and wire feed speed.
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    Flux core wire is hollow.
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    The flux is in the middle,
    so it's hollow and can be crushed.
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    So if you have to use a lot of tension
    on the tensioners,
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    you can crush it
    and have feeding problems.
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    So knurled rollers
    that are the right size are the way to go.
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    You can use less tension
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    and still push the wire
    through the liner.
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    This particular wire
    recommends 3/4" stick out.
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    Soit-- I've got to have my contact tip
    roughly flush
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    with the nozzle in order to get that
    in a tee joint.
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    And so
    that's why I have this thing
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    just about flush
    or slightly sticking out.
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    Nozzle dip, is it necessary?
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    Eh, it helps a lot.
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    If you're in a pinch,
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    you can definitely get
    by with some Vaseline.
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    And no MSDS required for something
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    that you can rub on a baby's butt.
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    So, there you go.
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    Polarity.
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    In this particular wire,
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    it's recommended
    DC electrode positive.
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    So I've got the ground clamp hooked up
    to the negative.
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    C25 gas.
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    That's 75/25 argon CO2 gas.
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    Roughly 25 to 30 CFH.
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    This particular wire can be run
    with straight CO2
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    or an argon CO2 mix.
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    Let's talk about settings
    for a minute.
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    Where do you go to find
    a good starting point for settings?
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    In this particular machine
    that I was using today,
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    there's a chart on the inside
    of the door like a lot of welders have,
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    and it's got an error on it.
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    It's calling out DC,
    straight polarity for E71T-1.
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    That's wrong, it needs DC
    reverse polarity, electrode positive.
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    So you can't always rely
    on charts.
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    Also, the settings here are generally
    for flat and horizontal.
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    So, when you go vertical uphill,
    things are really hot.
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    So, what I do is I'll drop
    down a thickness or two,
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    and it gets me in the ballpark.
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    For instance,
    today I was welding a quarter inch.
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    I use the settings for 3/16th,
    for vertical uphill.
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    A much better resource
    that I found was this:
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    it's called,
    "The Procedure Handbook of Welding"
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    from
    the James F. Lincoln Foundation,
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    and it's got a section in there
    for gas shielded flux core.
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    And it's
    much more accurate settings.
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    Show you that in just a minute.
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    That-- it's more accurate
    because it's got separate charts
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    for separate positions.
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    As you can see right here,
    it says this one is written
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    for overhead
    as well as vertical uphill.
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    This particular chart is written
    with CO2 shielding gas in mind,
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    just know
    you're going to use slightly less voltage
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    with an argon CO2 mix.
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    Plate thickness,
    a 1/4" and up,
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    one or more passes,
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    electrode class E71T-1, that's key.
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    You know,
    different brand names
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    can have
    different proprietary names,
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    but this is the class.
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    And I'm using 0.045, wire.
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    That's 1.1 millimeter wire.
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    Wire feed speed, 275 to 340,
    that's a decent narrow range.
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    You know, I've seen some charts
    that say 200 to 800
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    and it doesn't
    really help me a lot.
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    Current: DC(+),
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    the electrode: positive polarity,
    very important.
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    See the chart
    on the machine was wrong.
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    Voltage 25 to 27,
    and since this chart is for CO2,
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    I know I'm going to need
    a bit less voltage than that
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    for the argon CO2 mixed gas.
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    The stickout, 3/4".
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    And then for vertical up,
    a slight push angle of five degrees.
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    Or if I'm doing overhead,
    a drag angle of 50 degrees.
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    All right, so I--
    I like to tell everybody about this,
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    because it's such a good deal,
    it's $30 right now from JFLF.org.
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    A book--
    a comparable book like this
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    from the American Welding Society
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    would be as much as $200,
    maybe even more.
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    Now, a little side note here,
    it's not going to help you
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    if you live outside the US,
    because shipping will just kill you.
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    But if you're inside the US
    and you want a great little book
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    for parameters,
    for flux core and MIG
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    and all that stuff,
    this is a great book.
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    That about wraps it up.
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    I appreciate you spending time
    on my channel.
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    See you next time.
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    [no sound]
Title:
Dual Shield Flux Core Welding Basics
Description:

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Video Language:
English
Duration:
07:58

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