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So here we are at the top of Yamadera Risshaku-ji Temple completed in 860.
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There is no more beautiful spot than this one in autumn
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an amazing view overlooking Yamagata Prefecture.
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And at the top of 1015 steps lies a public
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Japan Post box and a man who has to climb
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these steps almost every day to pick it up.
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[Opening music]
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Irasshaimase (welcome)
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Only In Japan (voice of Peter von Gomm)
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I jumped on an E3 series bullet train
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the Yamagata Shinkansen from Tokyo
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for the 2 hour 45 minute ride north
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the morning mountain mist exciting me
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for the adventure at hand today.
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Yamadera north-east of Yamagata City in the
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mountains is a gem for off-the-beaten-path
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travelers, especially beautiful in autumn.
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Close to the JR station is an over
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1000 step stairway hike to the ancient
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Risshaku-ji Temple or Yamadera which
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is directly translated as mountain temple.
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And at the top besides the temple
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serving the residents and tourists
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alike is a red Japan Post box
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With pick-up time 11am six days a week.
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I always wondered who climbs up here to
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pick it up? That's over 12,000 steps each week.
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A real workout.
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(music)
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And I found the man who has a most scenic
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and one of the most challenging postal
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routes perhaps in all of Japan.
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This is Sasahara San who has been on
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this route for several years.
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He parks at the Yamadera Post Office
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and then hikes up, the same as tourists.
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Autumn here is warm in the afternoon sun,
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chilly in the evening, perfect hiking temperature.
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When you're carrying mail and packages and
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have to climb up a mountain, it's a long way.
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Well, it's not that far away.
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Just 20 or 30 minutes to climb up.
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The temple was founded in 860 nearly 1200 years ago.
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An ancient hike that now has well-maintained
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stone and cement steps to the top.
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We'll end the episode at the stunning
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Godaido observation deck and an autumn
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view of the mountain town below.
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It does look much more difficult
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from street level though.
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(adventurous music)
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11:59am
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We start the climb from under the torii gate.
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The real climbing in the forest starts here at
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the temple gate. Admission for non postal
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workers is 300 yen, open 9 to 5 daily.
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Oh really?
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Take it step by step, but you have to
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stop and look around. There's no reason to
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rush it even when you have a postal route.
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Yamadera is one of the big attractions of
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Tohoku. It's really nice to get out of the city.
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The steps up here have a lot of character
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built around the ancient rocks that give
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you a chance to look around
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say hi to the other travelers.
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There aren't that many people in the early
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mornings and near closing time
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the best time to visit and climb.
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We passed the Midahora Rock,
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worn from centuries of weather resembling
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a figure of Amida Buddha.
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We took a break at the halfway mark
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and I asked Sasahara San what
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Yamadera's attraction is to him.
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[Laughter]
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Aaahhh.
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The climb up is easy today - no packages.
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But sometimes he does have to bring them up.
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12:09pm
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This is Niomon Gate, a scenic spot
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to cross from the forest to the
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opening top of the mountain.
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The Yamagata fall colors seem to start
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a month before Tokyo.
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(flute music)
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From here, we start to enter the mountain-top
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village where only a handful of people
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actually live. Even without any roads
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to drive up, mail needs to be picked up
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and dropped off like every small town
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around the country.
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"Here we go."
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The view is also easier to admire.
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We're about 300m above sea level.
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The mail must be delivered no matter what.
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So it is true, almost nothing stops the Post Office.
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We've reached the public mail box.
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Sasahara San makes another delivery.
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We've got more work to do before picking
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up the mail from the public post box.
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(dog barking)
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One resident was happy for the visit.
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OK!
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As we move to the digital world,
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it's good to remember that these daily
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interactions also become more important too.
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The delivery of mail - that human connection -
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important in remote areas.
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We quickly visited the main hall,
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Daibutsuden, and made our way back
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down to the post box.
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12:32pm
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There doesn't seem to be a lot of
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mail to pick up today.
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You could see that a lot of people
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stop to watch us pick up the mail.
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(laughter)
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Seeing someone whose job it is to walk
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up the path so often that some tourists
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struggle with is also an attraction,
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especially for Japanese visiting Yamadera for
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the first time.
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I suppose in a way, Sasahara San is
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a connection between the world on the outside
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and the spiritual world atop the mountain.
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It would make quite an interesting anime.
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We walked down past Neomon Gate,
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a slice of everyday life in Japan perhaps
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the most intertesting way to see the stunning
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attractions in the heart of Yamagata.
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The trip down is much faster than the trip up.
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You notice the different view, the sun setting,
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changing the direction of the light through the trees.
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(spirited orchestral music)
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The whole trip from post office from top
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to bottom took about an hour.
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12:57pm Post Office reached.
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A lot of Japanese hikers say hi,
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take selfies with Sasahara San -
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a lot of respect for the guy who has to do
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his duty up and down the trail every day.
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And there are a lot of things he'll miss.
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(laughter)
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Good.
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1:12pm Sasahara San is off.
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There are more stops on his route
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in the surrounding mountains delivering mail
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until his retirement in a couple of years.
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I went up for a quick climb again to visit
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the most scenic spot, the Godaido
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Observation Deck at sunset.
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It said that those who ascend the steps
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1015 to Okunoin Temple at the top,
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forget the outside world as they ascend.
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They transcend into something greater.
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And when you walk around, make sure you look around
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'cause it's just stunning.
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Between three and 4pm there were fewer people
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on the steps. It had a much different feel.
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The Godaido Deck, Pavilion of the Five Masters,
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when the lighting is right, is one of the most
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incredible views of Japan.
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It feels surreal when you have it all to yourself
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just the sound of the wind, trees and maybe the
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local train passing by at the bottom in town.
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25 years ago when I first came to Japan,
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I remember coming up to Yamadera around that time.
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And more than the view around me, I was
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impressed with this. Who
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has to climb those stairs and pick up and deliver
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the mail almost every day? Sasahara San.
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And it was really special to get a chance
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to see him at his job.
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These are the kind of stories I like to bring you
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on this channel, and if you liked it, hit that
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subscribe button and join me on
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another adventure as I take you to
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every corner of this amazing country.
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Mata ne.
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(temple music)